Every item these days seems to come with a risk or defect if you look for it...The sad irony is..., 35 years ago you never heard of bad parts and defects, everyone took pride in their work or so they claimed...... ..,35 years ago was the modern day version of the dark ages, the closest thing to the internet was "Dear Abby".... Cool Lobotomy Ray, that steering box was someone's idea of putting lipstick on a pig , the clicking was most likely gear lash, somebody could have easily painted a worn out steering box and returned it for full refund or it was bench tested, it wasn't making a noise because it wasn't under load so they scuffed it and gave it a lick of paint, sold it for new or it was just a crappy reman job mistaken for new, anything and all is possible, ............. Good video, thank god for the internet.
I have never had a good part from BBK. Always something and at least 1 exchange. I have now gone back to using only OEM parts the warranty is better on almost all of the OEM too.
I have purchased BBK stuff in the past... none of it lasted more than a week. That end-plate snap ring should have a small hole on housing.. insert tiny screwdriver to push ring ... then pry snap ring out. Those bearing sometimes are 2 different size diameters. Install large-small-large-small .... till you run out of bearings. This particular box is just junk to start with so return it !
@@Calango741 I wasn't Shir of the part of being new I was under belief it was rebuilt if the case this highly irresponsible by the builder and compensate the shop
@@davidcraven277 Well, Ray did say it appeared to have been a new part, sealed etc, but when put in, it immediately made noise and upon inspection looked to have been rebuilt, and likely poorly at that.
The balls go in the worm gear. That's how lead screws work on machine tools. Only a guess, but one of the balls was not assembled into the worm gear and was loose and got between the end of the worm gear and the cap. As the mechanism was turned back and forth the ball would push on the end of the worm and that would push it into the cap.
I rebuilt a gearbox years ago lost a couple of bearings and the same thing happened along with general turning problems. Eventualy having to get another unit.
The sheet metal tube that was bolted to the gear he removed should have been pulled off first, then turn the housing upside down and turn the input shaft completely one direction and then all the way in the other direction. That will make the balls come out of the worm onto the bench, then the gear he knocked out with the hammer will just fall out of the housing. Also, at one time back in the past, the order the balls are put back in the worm used to matter and probably still does, there were x amount of silver balls, and the same amount of charcoal colored balls. You alternate colors as you feed them back in while turning the input shaft. Then when the worm is full, the rest of the balls go in the sheet metal tube making sure you keep the alternating order of colors the same as what you ended up with when the worm was full. Use grease to hold the balls in the sheet metal tube while you bolt that back in.
As long as you have x-ray eyes to see through the inch thick paint and know where to poke. Do you know everything about a Bedford RLC Light Recovery or the 1944 version of DUKW. Best not throw stones only to find you live in a glasshouse.
I used to work at auto parts stores. It's amazing the amount of time and effort people will put in to clean a used part to get their money back, saying "they didn't need it". I took back two rear wheel cylinders that looked brand new. Sometime later I was showing someone how the insides looked. Took off the boots of these particular cylinders and all this old fluid just came out of it. Outside was absolutely spotless.
no, this is a rebuilt unit , not someone who did that to get money back. I have a video showing you a brand new rebuilt out of the box being all sloppy and wore out. Same vehicule
MFRs could slow that down a lot simply by stamping a serial number into the body of the part. In order to return it the serial numbers have to match up. Not many willing to bother or have the skill to scrape off an old serial number and forge in a new one just to save some bucks.
I just replaced my rear calipers THREE TIMES ! The supplier expected me to pay the difference between the original cost and the replacement. It did not end well. At all
There is always somebody trying to make a quick buck , by being deceitful and a lying toad . With returned items that are supposed to be correct and fit for purpose .
I had a starter with the gear worn down. I replaced it with a Chinese one that I bought "from the usual scumbags" (as AVE would say). and it failed in the exact same way. Upon diagnosing it, we found that it was also worn down, however, it appeared to be new. We returned to the store to check another and it was also worn down. We concluded that the Chinese had reverse engineered a worn down starter.. so the gear teeth were manufactured brand new, in a fully used up state. Fun stuff.
When the soviets reverse engineered the B29 bomber, they faithfully installed a panel to nowhere. The plane they copied had been damaged and quickly put back in service by placing a patch that looked like an inspection panel instead of doing a complete repair which would have taken a longer time. I am not surprised the Chinese did similar
Let me 1st say I'm old. lol But I do remember in Highschool shop class having to rebuild Steering boxes and even brake cylinders. Early on when "they" started sending out and stocking rebuilt parts the quality control took a downhill slide quickly. Then we learned the folks doing the "rebuild" NEVER needed to know what they were working on or what it did or even how. All I can offer is Good Luck with the very disposable industry where quality takes a back seat to quantity. Good Video sir Ray.
@@Ham68229 There was even a song way back in like the 70's or 80's that had a line about living in a world of "disposable emotions". There's some perspective for ya...
I bet somebody rattle canned and put their old broken part in the box and returned it. Unfortunately, I’ve opened quite a few boxes with returned junk in it from big box stores
Yup. My thoughts right away. Parts washer, brake clean, dipped in paint bucket, took back to store and said "Customer declined repair" or " Wrong part" . Restocked and put beside repackaged/swapped out Dorman aluminium Chrysler oil filter assembly and sent off to Raymond.
Lately, I'd been watching manufacturing and rebuilding/recycling in Pakistan. I watched how they built brake shoes, pads, rotors, rebuilt motors, etc. They replace the broke part, then stick it back together. Interesting to watch and that's how it's done everywhere. Like a company a few years ago I had to rebuild my transmission. It burned out again in 8 months. When I took it to a GOOD transmission shop he said that they only replaced 1st and 2nd gear packs and 3rd, 4th, and 5th was still OEM. Even the torque converter and pump was the same,, and it was filled with particles of metal as if it was stuck together with the new parts and not even cleaned out. Transmission fluid was even original and STANK !!!. Typical rebuild places for major parts like that steering gear. Replace what's broke or bad, stick in a new part, put it back together. Why I don't buy rebuilt parts. New parts aren't much better. Quality control and bad business practices abound in all sectors of the market these days. No one cares about quality anymore, just the almighty dollar bill. Why I watch you. YOU CARE. You and a few repair shops are an anomaly in this world. Stay that way, please. Take care.
@@jeggleston1651 Nope. They saved it and put it back in to save money on their bottom line. Even admitted they did when confronted. They are no longer in business, thankfully. Sorry people.
I appreciate this video because it shows that not all new parts are what they say they are. Thanks for the effort and the revealing video on these scammers.
The aviation industry had a problem with that stuff. Many parts have a time limit or a number of cycles. Once you hit that limit the part must be replaced. Some unscrupulous folks would do dumpster diving retrieve the parts, clean them, repaint them and sell them as new. Accidents were caused by these a-holes.
@@robertthegrape2192 I worked at an aircraft parts warehouse and when we got parts in for replacement we were not allowed to bin them in their received condition. We had to inspect each part for abnormal wear and then dispose of them. To dispose of them meant we had to destroy each and every part, down to the smallest individual component, manually. Had a whole process and checklist for it. Mostly I saw manifolds and pistons, which were run through a drill press and then hydraulic anvil.
I’m wondering how many shops would just let go. I have a f350 6.7 (still under warranty) in the shop now for same problem they don’t seem to want to fix. Ford corporate is now involved. Great job and thank goodness there are still shops that care.
Most likely a returned part where someone "switched" out the new part and just spray painted their old part after cleaning it with break cleaner. Then returned, saying it didn't fit. Parts distributor just put it on the shelf and resold as new (or rebuilt).
50 yrs ago in UK it was called a 'paraffin service', i.e. wash the dirty old part and re -sell it. Bought a starter motor 'reconditioned'😇and it caught fire on turning the key!
@@Jay.Kellett That's more likely blameable than some factory switcheroo. It makes a lot of sense. Crooks are everywhere these days. You can hardly walk in the woods without encountering unethicalness or criminalness. And the parts business was lazy checking it out. At least now, they can't continue that thread of deceit.
I really hate defected rebuilt parts. At times with certain vehicles you can't avoid using them because no one have OEM or new parts, then when this happens it really sucks and I felt I had wasted a lot of energy and time and now it's back to square one. This is when attitude and patience comes into play and just move on. Your attitude towards this junk rebuilt steering box is really good compared to a lot of other mechanics, great job of showing us what was inside of this unit.
We had to rebuild power and manual steering boxes in tech school as part of our final grade. Feeding the bearings back into the piston/gear assembly was the hardest thing to do. To get the end cap off, there's a hole in the case to insert a punch to push the snap ring out of its groove.
Going back to your video where you did a semi-rant about parts mark-ups, customer-supplied parts, etc: This is a prime example of why things are the way they are. You are responsible to either get compensation from the parts house or eat the cost, AND you’re out the labor. Had the customer supplied the part, you could charge again for the labor and the customer would have to pay again for the part.
Thank you for the autopsy. Now the million dollar question is "who is going to pay for the new part and work time"? For me, neither you or the customer. And funny thing is that Dave was right when he said it wouldn't fit. You better ask him for the lottery numbers, you might just get lucky. Have a nice day Ray, Lauren and Dave.
I was trained on overhauling those steering boxes a few decades ago. That snap ring isn't difficult if the area was cleaned up and you realized it was a spiral type. There isn't much that was salvageable on the one you tore apart. Maybe the case.
The parts availability and condition is not like it used to be 20 years ago. Great job Ray for your curiosity of why?? It failed. It’s definitely a eye opener ✌️🇺🇸
This should be against the law. A person's life depends on this part functioning to a standard. To mascarade a faulty unit as new is despicable. Bravo to you for standing tall for your customer!
I would guess that what happened is someone bought the remanufactured part and installed it and cleaned and painted the old part and put it back in the box and returned it as not needed and got their money back. Then it was put back on the shelf and was sold as a rebuilt part. I have seen this with car parts before. Alternators, starters, power steering pumps and water pumps are a good target for this scam also. Many auto parts stores don't check or care.
Whenever I buy remanufactured parts with the signature black paint on them it is always a crap shoot whether they will be DOA. I had a reman Cardone power steering rack with excessive slop in the gears it made an awful clunk when turning under load with the wheels on the ground. At least your rack is accessible mine was under the exhaust and the lines were pretty much right up against the cross member. I went through 2 Ford C-II power steering pumps with black paint on them and both whined like crazy (way louder than the typical Ford pump whine) even after bleeding with the factory vacuum tool. Finally bought a Motorcraft reman it had no black paint anywhere on it. It literally looked brand new installed it and no noise. If you can afford it I'd go with an OEM reman over a parts store reman any day.
I'm just a garage mechanic and I have gotten used parts from the store several times. Guys will put the new parts on, throw the old stuff in the box and return them to the store. They tell them "These aren't the right parts." and the clerk give them a refund and throws the box back on the shelf. The ones I got were covered in dirty grease. The one you got was cleaned up and rattle canned, just in case they took a peek.
Now we know why OEM parts cost what they do, and 9 times out of 10 are worth it in the long run -- provided the parts catalog doesn't list them as "obsolete."
I've rebuilt a couple of Saginaw steering boxes and they are actually a simple, great and somewhat sturdy design in my opinion! And at least they can be rebuilt as a DIY. The big end cap is held in by that snap ring indeed. First give the cap a tap with a rubber mallet, just to shift it a little deeper and free the snap ring. Locate the hole on the edge of the housing, through which you can push a small punch, which will dislodge the snap ring. Now you can easily pry the snap ring out. The most tedious of the entire rebuild is getting the ball bearings in correctly and in sequence. There are an equal number of 2 sizes, one set darker grey and the other set "nice and shiny". These are 2 slightly different sizes and need to be alternated when inserting/installing. Best practice is to use grease to stick the bearings in place, in particular in the 2 halve end caps. Possibly something went wrong there and one of the bearing balls was either missing, got dislodged due to improper install or was simply dropped inside the housing and not in the "channel" where it's supposed to go...
Good morning Mr Ray hope you have a great day, and sorry about having to do a job twice due to cheap junk. You can't even get paid for this, but it makes a great video for us to learn 😊
good saying Ray "if its new doesn't mean it works" . i traveled from our farm to adelaide city 150kms to buy a new sunbeam electric fry pan i got it home and it didn't work,when i buy something new now i make the sales ppl plug it in and show me it works cheers mate
Minute 2:24 the hole in the case is visible on the left side of the steering box. The one to insert a punch for the removal of the snap ring. Its small 3/32" or so, but its there. Tap in an appropriate sized punch and then get behind the snap ring with a small screw driver and pry it out. Box was junk, but cutting it up was hard to watch. Did you toss it out then and just lose the core charge? I think there are two sizes of ball bearings as well. At least there are in the gm boxes i have worked on. Oh well... onward and upward! Keep up the content!
I have 25 years as a custom steering gear remanufacturer. That is a hydraulic steering gear. Not a manual steering gear. In order to operate properly it needs hydraulic high pressure fluid supplied . What your trying to do when turning the steering wheel with out the truck running,. Would be similar to trying to move a back hoe bucket or rear digging boom with out the tractor running. The piston end cap is easily removed with a pin punch inserted in the 1/8" diameter hole located in the housing casting at the end of the steering gear. Tap the pin punch with a hammer will remove the round keeper ring from the steering gear. Movement can almost always be seen from the aluminum piston cap in most GM 800 series steering gear boxs. This does not mean that there is a problem with the steering gear box. There is only a bushing in the top cap not a bearing. All power steering gears will make mechanical noise if being operated without a functioning power steering pump supplying the correct volume and fluid pressure.
this box was probably alreayd toast.. judging from the amount of fluid, they probably started the truck and observed the popping and cracking.. im guessing one or more of those bearings got away or there was just binding.. maybe the lash screw turned too far in.. if that was in fact just a paint N go job, vs a new or reman part that would make sense as often people just turn the lash screw thinking they are "removing play"...
It's like someone had a busted unit, cleaned it up a bit, resprayed it. Ordered a new one from there but sent it back (as maybe a wrong part) but put the broken one in the packaging and kept the good one, thus getting a new part free!
Possibly in the world of rebuilt parts something like this happens. I hope this is an exception rather than the rule. And I hope whomever supplied the part stands behind it and covers the labor & part to make it right. Thanks for the "autopsy" of the steering box. Interesting, indeed.
Many rebuilders like Cardone have been using cheap Chinese internal parts. Their source is China. The issue is the lack of consistent quality in things like gaskets, O rings and seals. Our shop makes an effort not to install parts sourced from China, sadly we don’t always have a choice. Now we’re finding out that Chinese investors purchased many American parts distributors. It’s all about more money for cheap parts. Corporate greed caused this problem.
Yep. It's smoked. The fact that the piston rack was banging the front plug tells me that the sector shaft was not put in on center tooth. Did you by chance check to see if it had full stop to stop steering?
That big star nut around the sector shaft, is how you disassemble the gear. It locks the collar jam nut. Then the hole assembly comes out the other end.
I like how you look into bad parts to show how "new" parts are not always new or good. I hope the company sees this and gets a new one back to you at no cost, plus the extra cost of replacing it again.
I think you should show this video to the parts suppliers, you had something similar a few weeks back when what was in the box was not what was on the box, think is was the oil cooler upgrade you did??… some one had swapped the parts over and sent a crap one back. Some one needs to pay you for doing this twice! It’s not your fault the part is crap. Great video as always Ray. 😊
The part that most call a "worm gear" is actually a "lead screw". The popping noise most commonly comes from the ball bearings sliding/skidding instead of rolling due to wear or defects... What a crappy piece!
This is a problem in aviation as well. Pilot writes up a radio, the mechanic swaps the radios around, and they find that it is indeed bad. Get a new one out of the box and it's broken as well~ Great video, and so typical these days!
Yep, I purchased a pump for my jaguar from them and also had issues. Looked inside and it was all old damaged parts... not an easy job on a jag at all so I was pissed but the oem pump was 800bucks.... I got another reman from lares and it's been solid for 2 years so far
The algorithm has once again been upto it's old tricks not bothering to send out notifications. Nice to get my required dose of the rainman today, I've been feeling the absence these past few days.
Putting those ball bearings back is a pain. (you need a special taper pin). I know, I rebuilt my gear in my Aunts driveway in Seward Alaska. There were 2 prior cases of fluid leaks (original at 19K miles, The warranty unit less). My rebuild lasted 60K (vehicle retired). IMHO the over painted nuts was a clue something was hinky.
Oh boy does that bring back memories! During my time as a tech for the local government repairing police and civilian vehicles, we had contracts with local "repair" and supply outfits for things like carb rebuilds (the days of electronic carbs), alternators, transmissions, and radiators. It was not uncommon the get a "rebuilt" part where they simply sprayed silver paint over the grease and and dirt coating the part and stuck it in a plastic bag and shipped it back to us. You might speculate on who the business owners were friends and donors with.
Sorry to see the part being bad .I've had bad luck with fuel pumps on chevy silverado 6.0 . Also alternators and starters. Im trying to buy denso now. So far they been ok.If Im not in a hurry.I have an excellent rebuilder for alternators and starters nearby.
This is the nonsense that drove me crazy when I was a tech. Dealing with crap aftermarket "reman" parts. The frustration is that if you complain to the parts store or directly to that company, who is going to care or reimburse you for all that wasted time. Probably no one.
Man, this sucks! When I replaced the steering gear on my ‘93 Chevy truck at first I put in a generic O'Reilly Cardone unit that only lasted 2 months before giving up and after that, I just spent the money for a new redhead gear that has not let me down for the good 5 years I've had it on.
This is what some shops do with reman engines. They claim replacement of hard and soft parts but in reality they bought a cheap high mileage engine from a junkyard and cleaned it up and paint
I sandblasted new track chains for a D8 cat dozer, it had partially burnt, new track pads, new interior, a few new hoses and wires, new seat and a fresh coat of cat paint, they loaded it on the lowbed before the paint was even dry!! Mechanics were betting on wether there would be any paint left by the time it got to the buyer! This company was known for this type of "overhaul"
Such butchery to disassemble, when paint stripper and patience and rust dissolver and endless hours could have discovered, junk. So much obvious wear on the parts is should never have been remanufactured let alone sold as new. Fake parts can ruin a genuine mechanic's reputation so easily. Good catch. Keep scaring the fake part market that they can be exposed.
Cardone is one rebuilder that makes some sloppy steering boxes, I’ve went through several before giving up and just settling for a sloppy steering gear. One steering gear i got off Rock Auto was a remanufactured unit “for AC DElco” it said on the box, this was the tighter feeling steering gear that i really liked but its cast iron case literally blew up while i was parking in the garage one night.
A hardware store in our town tried to sell my daughter a used, inoperative 30 amp breaker. I took it back. Asked them to tell which one was new, the old or the "new" one they sold her. They couldn't. Got her money back PDQ. I bet it was returned and put right back on the shelf.
I changed out a water pump in my wife's 2001 Malibu . 5 years later the water pump bearings froze up and the engine over heated and destroyed the engine. I got the water pump from an auto parts store. I have never had a water pump fail in just 5 years. That's why I buy all my repair parts now from the car dealer parts department. Nowadays you can't even buy sparkplug that are not Chi-Com counterfeits. Good video Ray.
Reminds me of a gear box I bought from AZ. It had been cleaned and painted, not rebuilt. Driving straight was okay. Turning either way there was LOTS of slop between the gears. The faster you went the more the truck wandered = dangerous.
Hi Ray, the worm gear holds those balls in place which helps to move the whole steering gear, it's called a recirculating ball steering gear, and from your diagnostic experience, it looks like the worm gear is so worn that it was riding up around the the balls and the whole piston assembly was sliding over and hitting the end plate, hence all the clicks, clacky noise you heard!! I still have a Chilton auto/truck repair book, hardback that my dad used back in the day that shows this type of steering gear in detail and has all the information on how to rebuild such unit back to brand new status !!, whoever "rebuilt " this steering box was really lazy, and the part could have caused a very serious crash!!, get on the parts dealer that sold you this, show them this video! Great job !
thick, black paint....makes it the part it aint. had a similar issue with a ps pump. installed it, bled the system, started it and immediately started to whine. had power steering but whined constantly. glad napa has lifetime warranty on some of their parts. SAVE YOUR RECEIPTS!!!! makes life easier when crap like this happens. i dont blame napa, i blame someone who did the ol switch-a-roo. theres a special place in hell for theives. i bet the clicky poppy noise was the worn gear slipping. didnt look like there was much left of the worm gear. thanks, ray for the field trip thru a steering gear case.
Ray, what you're calling A "wormgear" is actually a BALL SCREW. All those ball bearing sit in the helical groove in the shaft & as it rotates it moves the piston. What you were hearing was probably bind and blown out clearances in the ball screw.
It's always good to see Ray doing his mechanic stuff, but it's a real treat when some strange, bizarre happening, garbage company or (potentially) unscrupulous individual activates his Diagnostician Skills
Last time I replaced one I asked parts to get me a rebuild kit. They looked at me like I had 3 heads. Asked me why. Cause I don't trust parts anymore. You almost have to test and fully inspect every part. Atleast now a days, it's good practice to. But costs more time. Ruins flat rate techs.
There is supposed to be a hole where you can used a punch to push the ring out! I have rebuilt several of these! The worm gear and the ball bearings work together and you have to have them in there just right!
This is recirculating ball steering mechanism. The inner shaft and out shaft do not actually locate into each directly but do so indirectly via the ball bearings running between them held in the respective spiral grooves. The ‘clicking’ might indicate that not all the ball bearings were installed. Generally the ball bearings are a continuous ‘chain’ running nose to tail and completely fill the conical groove. Count up all the ball bearings to see if you are short of the number specified. On a final note the pinion teeth and the steering arm gear teeth have a machined conical interface that is designed to allow adjustment for wear (end lash) which is achieved by tightening up the pinion end nut effectively pulling the pinion further into the steering arm gear. These steering mechanisms lack the feel of rack and pinion but they make up for it by being hefty and robust.
The Bearings worked themselves into the worm Gear, Causing the worm gear to push the Piston further out than the tolerance and hitting the end cap with the bolt head.
I would guess it was a take the new rebuild out and take the one that was making noise that was being replaced cleaned up and slap a fresh coat of paint on it and return it. Or someone who was on rate and needed a raise so clean, paint and re-box in new box send it down the line. Not good, someone sooner or later going to get hurt or worse. You are a great and honest mechanic, Ray and do your profession proud.
About 20 years ago I got a "rebuilt" alternator for my 1994 Impala SS, from a major retailer that sells junk. Yeah, most can guess what zone I'm talking about. It had a 1 year warranty, 2 weeks after the warranty expired it started making a HORRIBLE screaming noise. The store said no dice on fudging the warranty by two weeks. A friend disassembled the alternator and found that when rebuilt they left out the front cover bearing retainer plate, instead using some kind of glue to hold the outside of the bearing to the case. The glue gave out, the shaft moved rearward just enough for the fan to hit the front of the case, and the howling noise began. My friend, an old retired GM mechanic, had the correct bearing retainer in his stash of old, usable parts he'd amassed over the years, and got me going within a few hours.
I bought a 2011 BMW and it was exactly what I wanted, black interior, straight six, no turbo, premo sound system, and wood, not metal in the dash. Everything worked, every button, every accessory. It developed this vibration and it got worse and worse. I took it to my shop, people who have worked on every BMW I ever owned and they do excellent work. They couldn't figure out the problem. They sent the drive shaft out to get it balanced and same problem. Long story short, the drive shaft was counterfeit, not used or the wrong part. the goddamn thing was counterfeit. The way my shop solved the problem was take a drive shaft off another car and that was the problem, a bad drive shaft. They went back to the people who balanced the thing and asked how they didn't catch it and why it wasn't balanced. Of course, no answer. It's like it's bad enough it cost me $275 a month just to have a street legal car, not to drive it, just to have it, but parts and finding a good shop is a crap shoot. And I have no idea what to do about it.
Maybe you will be invited to the BBK factory soon. I have had to go through three steering box's to get one that works.
Need to reimburse the labor to replace their crap. Rebuilder/manufacturer should pay.
Every item these days seems to come with a risk or defect if you look for it...The sad irony is..., 35 years ago you never heard of bad parts and defects, everyone took pride in their work or so they claimed...... ..,35 years ago was the modern day version of the dark ages, the closest thing to the internet was "Dear Abby"....
Cool Lobotomy Ray, that steering box was someone's idea of putting lipstick on a pig , the clicking was most likely gear lash, somebody could have easily painted a worn out steering box and returned it for full refund or it was bench tested, it wasn't making a noise because it wasn't under load so they scuffed it and gave it a lick of paint, sold it for new or it was just a crappy reman job mistaken for new, anything and all is possible, ............. Good video, thank god for the internet.
Before the DePride movement everything was better.@@IR-nq4qv
I have never had a good part from BBK. Always something and at least 1 exchange. I have now gone back to using only OEM parts the warranty is better on almost all of the OEM too.
I have purchased BBK stuff in the past... none of it lasted more than a week. That end-plate snap ring should have a small hole on housing.. insert tiny screwdriver to push ring ... then pry snap ring out. Those bearing sometimes are 2 different size diameters. Install large-small-large-small .... till you run out of bearings. This particular box is just junk to start with so return it !
That is why the other steering box was laughing... It knew the "New one" won't be OK.... So wait... Dave is clairvoyant!!!!
“I will not be mocked”
🤣
I was also wondered what the old one was laughing at.
Dave really is clairvoyant!!! Called it lolol
Why be a subscriber he isn't paying us. This is free schooling
Welcome to the world of rebuilt parts this is not uncommon that is why we rebuild our own parts when we are able to get the parts
Yes, but this was SUPPOSED TO BE a NEW part, not rebuilt...
@@Calango741 I wasn't Shir of the part of being new I was under belief it was rebuilt if the case this highly irresponsible by the builder and compensate the shop
@@davidcraven277 Well, Ray did say it appeared to have been a new part, sealed etc, but when put in, it immediately made noise and upon inspection looked to have been rebuilt, and likely poorly at that.
The balls go in the worm gear. That's how lead screws work on machine tools. Only a guess, but one of the balls was not assembled into the worm gear and was loose and got between the end of the worm gear and the cap. As the mechanism was turned back and forth the ball would push on the end of the worm and that would push it into the cap.
That's what I thought as well.
I rebuilt a gearbox years ago lost a couple of bearings and the same thing happened along with general turning problems. Eventualy having to get another unit.
That may very well be true, but this was supposed to be a NEW part, NOT a rebuilt one, and it was obviously NOT NEW.
Yes, that's a recirculating ball steering box. It works exactly the same as a ball screw on machine tools.
The sheet metal tube that was bolted to the gear he removed should have been pulled off first, then turn the housing upside down and turn the input shaft completely one direction and then all the way in the other direction. That will make the balls come out of the worm onto the bench, then the gear he knocked out with the hammer will just fall out of the housing. Also, at one time back in the past, the order the balls are put back in the worm used to matter and probably still does, there were x amount of silver balls, and the same amount of charcoal colored balls. You alternate colors as you feed them back in while turning the input shaft. Then when the worm is full, the rest of the balls go in the sheet metal tube making sure you keep the alternating order of colors the same as what you ended up with when the worm was full. Use grease to hold the balls in the sheet metal tube while you bolt that back in.
The case has a hole for a punch to press the snap ring enabling a small pry bar to remove it, no destruction required.
As long as you have x-ray eyes to see through the inch thick paint and know where to poke.
Do you know everything about a Bedford RLC Light Recovery or the 1944 version of DUKW.
Best not throw stones only to find you live in a glasshouse.
he was explaining how it comes apart. you are the one throwing stones@@dukwdriver2909
@@dukwdriver2909he is correct doubt he was throwing stone just given advise how the correct method is.
Yep... About 3/64
It was destroyed in the box from the factory.
I used to work at auto parts stores. It's amazing the amount of time and effort people will put in to clean a used part to get their money back, saying "they didn't need it". I took back two rear wheel cylinders that looked brand new. Sometime later I was showing someone how the insides looked. Took off the boots of these particular cylinders and all this old fluid just came out of it. Outside was absolutely spotless.
no, this is a rebuilt unit , not someone who did that to get money back. I have a video showing you a brand new rebuilt out of the box being all sloppy and wore out. Same vehicule
MFRs could slow that down a lot simply by stamping a serial number into the body of the part.
In order to return it the serial numbers have to match up.
Not many willing to bother or have the skill to scrape off an old serial number and forge in a new one just to save some bucks.
I just replaced my rear calipers THREE TIMES ! The supplier expected me to pay the difference between the original cost and the replacement. It did not end well. At all
There is always somebody trying to make a quick buck , by being deceitful and a lying toad . With returned items that are supposed to be correct and fit for purpose .
I try to go OEM, new if I can. Have had bad luck with a lot of the rebuilt stuff out there, some last some do not!
I had a starter with the gear worn down. I replaced it with a Chinese one that I bought "from the usual scumbags" (as AVE would say). and it failed in the exact same way. Upon diagnosing it, we found that it was also worn down, however, it appeared to be new. We returned to the store to check another and it was also worn down. We concluded that the Chinese had reverse engineered a worn down starter.. so the gear teeth were manufactured brand new, in a fully used up state. Fun stuff.
When the soviets reverse engineered the B29 bomber, they faithfully installed a panel to nowhere. The plane they copied had been damaged and quickly put back in service by placing a patch that looked like an inspection panel instead of doing a complete repair which would have taken a longer time. I am not surprised the Chinese did similar
Let me 1st say I'm old. lol But I do remember in Highschool shop class having to rebuild Steering boxes and even brake cylinders. Early on when "they" started sending out and stocking rebuilt parts the quality control took a downhill slide quickly. Then we learned the folks doing the "rebuild" NEVER needed to know what they were working on or what it did or even how. All I can offer is Good Luck with the very disposable industry where quality takes a back seat to quantity. Good Video sir Ray.
Great days when high school had auto shop. Not available now in most places. What you to go to expensive private places
Sad that we've come so far only to become a "throw away" society. Shame really.
But...but...you can learn about how to change your identity, and what bathroom to use, and how everyone is racist!@@roberthicks9191
@@Ham68229 There was even a song way back in like the 70's or 80's that had a line about living in a world of "disposable emotions". There's some perspective for ya...
All that work for nothing. Hope you got the best of the next one
I bet somebody rattle canned and put their old broken part in the box and returned it. Unfortunately, I’ve opened quite a few boxes with returned junk in it from big box stores
Yup. My thoughts right away. Parts washer, brake clean, dipped in paint bucket, took back to store and said "Customer declined repair" or " Wrong part" . Restocked and put beside repackaged/swapped out Dorman aluminium Chrysler oil filter assembly and sent off to Raymond.
Yeah, probably not wrong. I cant imagine a reputable company spending a bad pad part like this. Seeing the same shit in computer parts too
Exactly my thought too.
More people wanting something for nothing....
Lately, I'd been watching manufacturing and rebuilding/recycling in Pakistan. I watched how they built brake shoes, pads, rotors, rebuilt motors, etc. They replace the broke part, then stick it back together. Interesting to watch and that's how it's done everywhere. Like a company a few years ago I had to rebuild my transmission. It burned out again in 8 months. When I took it to a GOOD transmission shop he said that they only replaced 1st and 2nd gear packs and 3rd, 4th, and 5th was still OEM. Even the torque converter and pump was the same,, and it was filled with particles of metal as if it was stuck together with the new parts and not even cleaned out. Transmission fluid was even original and STANK !!!. Typical rebuild places for major parts like that steering gear. Replace what's broke or bad, stick in a new part, put it back together. Why I don't buy rebuilt parts. New parts aren't much better. Quality control and bad business practices abound in all sectors of the market these days. No one cares about quality anymore, just the almighty dollar bill. Why I watch you. YOU CARE. You and a few repair shops are an anomaly in this world. Stay that way, please. Take care.
I'm sorry, but if the transmission was disassembled enough to replace gear packs (clutches and steels), the fluid was far from the original.
@@jeggleston1651 Nope. They saved it and put it back in to save money on their bottom line. Even admitted they did when confronted. They are no longer in business, thankfully. Sorry people.
I appreciate this video because it shows that not all new parts are what they say they are. Thanks for the effort and the revealing video on these scammers.
The aviation industry had a problem with that stuff. Many parts have a time limit or a number of cycles. Once you hit that limit the part must be replaced. Some unscrupulous folks would do dumpster diving retrieve the parts, clean them, repaint them and sell them as new. Accidents were caused by these a-holes.
@@robertthegrape2192 I worked at an aircraft parts warehouse and when we got parts in for replacement we were not allowed to bin them in their received condition. We had to inspect each part for abnormal wear and then dispose of them. To dispose of them meant we had to destroy each and every part, down to the smallest individual component, manually. Had a whole process and checklist for it. Mostly I saw manifolds and pistons, which were run through a drill press and then hydraulic anvil.
Today “new” means painted black- guaranteed to be crappy painted black.
No other guarantees
@@amzarnacht6710manifolds don’t wear out tho.
Unless it’s bad design
Curious what your parts supplier said about this. Thanks for another great video, Ray!
Yes, I, too, am curious about that.
Time to find a better part wholestrealer...
@@ginog5037 anyone can have a bad day, what matters is how they respond to it.
“Do you want another one”😂😂😂
Is what they’d say
"Can't warranty that, it's been tampered with"
I’m wondering how many shops would just let go. I have a f350 6.7 (still under warranty) in the shop now for same problem they don’t seem to want to fix. Ford corporate is now involved. Great job and thank goodness there are still shops that care.
Ya know Ray,
Technically Dave called it from the previous video unknowingly that it wasn't going to work (due to the lack of a missing happy face lol)
Hate it when they call junk parts new by painting it and fixing it a little, I try my best to keep Oem to avoid doing the work more times than needed.
Always opt for the OEM mfr's part FIRST whenever available. It will save you time, money and aspirin.
Most likely a returned part where someone "switched" out the new part and just spray painted their old part after cleaning it with break cleaner. Then returned, saying it didn't fit.
Parts distributor just put it on the shelf and resold as new (or rebuilt).
50 yrs ago in UK it was called a 'paraffin service', i.e. wash the dirty old part and re -sell it. Bought a starter motor 'reconditioned'😇and it caught fire on turning the key!
@@Jay.Kellett That's more likely blameable than some factory switcheroo. It makes a lot of sense. Crooks are everywhere these days. You can hardly walk in the woods without encountering unethicalness or criminalness. And the parts business was lazy checking it out.
At least now, they can't continue that thread of deceit.
Alternators for darn sure!@@williampope3531
Just because it's new doesn't mean it's GOOD!
I've said that in our shop for many many years....
I really hate defected rebuilt parts. At times with certain vehicles you can't avoid using them because no one have OEM or new parts, then when this happens it really sucks and I felt I had wasted a lot of energy and time and now it's back to square one. This is when attitude and patience comes into play and just move on. Your attitude towards this junk rebuilt steering box is really good compared to a lot of other mechanics, great job of showing us what was inside of this unit.
We had to rebuild power and manual steering boxes in tech school as part of our final grade. Feeding the bearings back into the piston/gear assembly was the hardest thing to do. To get the end cap off, there's a hole in the case to insert a punch to push the snap ring out of its groove.
The rebuilder's liberal use of paint probably obliterated any chance of finding that hole.
@@MonkeyJedi99I'm pretty sure you can see it at about 1:55, but if you don't know to look for it, you wouldn't know to use it
Going back to your video where you did a semi-rant about parts mark-ups, customer-supplied parts, etc: This is a prime example of why things are the way they are. You are responsible to either get compensation from the parts house or eat the cost, AND you’re out the labor. Had the customer supplied the part, you could charge again for the labor and the customer would have to pay again for the part.
Thank you for the autopsy. Now the million dollar question is "who is going to pay for the new part and work time"? For me, neither you or the customer. And funny thing is that Dave was right when he said it wouldn't fit. You better ask him for the lottery numbers, you might just get lucky. Have a nice day Ray, Lauren and Dave.
I was trained on overhauling those steering boxes a few decades ago. That snap ring isn't difficult if the area was cleaned up and you realized it was a spiral type. There isn't much that was salvageable on the one you tore apart. Maybe the case.
he vented out his anger by cutting it.
As Eric O says. NEW only means "never ever worked"
Good catch, Ray. I wonder how many other techs would have caught that and explored the way you did? You are an asset to the community.
The parts availability and condition is not like it used to be 20 years ago. Great job Ray for your curiosity of why?? It failed. It’s definitely a eye opener ✌️🇺🇸
This should be against the law. A person's life depends on this part functioning to a standard. To mascarade a faulty unit as new is despicable. Bravo to you for standing tall for your customer!
It is. Fraud and or larceny. Good luck finding the actual perpetrator.
Nothing says fun like having to do it twice.. bummer.. good vids.. have a great day….✌️
im replacing those rebuilts unit on my truck, under warranty every 20 000km. They are all sloppy. I'm saving money for a PSC
I would guess that what happened is someone bought the remanufactured part and installed it and cleaned and painted the old part and put it back in the box and returned it as not needed and got their money back.
Then it was put back on the shelf and was sold as a rebuilt part. I have seen this with car parts before. Alternators, starters, power steering pumps and water pumps are a good target for this scam also. Many auto parts stores don't check or care.
Whenever I buy remanufactured parts with the signature black paint on them it is always a crap shoot whether they will be DOA. I had a reman Cardone power steering rack with excessive slop in the gears it made an awful clunk when turning under load with the wheels on the ground. At least your rack is accessible mine was under the exhaust and the lines were pretty much right up against the cross member.
I went through 2 Ford C-II power steering pumps with black paint on them and both whined like crazy (way louder than the typical Ford pump whine) even after bleeding with the factory vacuum tool. Finally bought a Motorcraft reman it had no black paint anywhere on it. It literally looked brand new installed it and no noise.
If you can afford it I'd go with an OEM reman over a parts store reman any day.
I'm just a garage mechanic and I have gotten used parts from the store several times. Guys will put the new parts on, throw the old stuff in the box and return them to the store. They tell them "These aren't the right parts." and the clerk give them a refund and throws the box back on the shelf. The ones I got were covered in dirty grease. The one you got was cleaned up and rattle canned, just in case they took a peek.
Good morning crew, You can now share your own reeeeeeees with the parts house lol. Have a great rest of the day everyone. Thanks for posting Ray!
Now we know why OEM parts cost what they do, and 9 times out of 10 are worth it in the long run -- provided the parts catalog doesn't list them as "obsolete."
I've rebuilt a couple of Saginaw steering boxes and they are actually a simple, great and somewhat sturdy design in my opinion! And at least they can be rebuilt as a DIY.
The big end cap is held in by that snap ring indeed. First give the cap a tap with a rubber mallet, just to shift it a little deeper and free the snap ring. Locate the hole on the edge of the housing, through which you can push a small punch, which will dislodge the snap ring. Now you can easily pry the snap ring out.
The most tedious of the entire rebuild is getting the ball bearings in correctly and in sequence. There are an equal number of 2 sizes, one set darker grey and the other set "nice and shiny". These are 2 slightly different sizes and need to be alternated when inserting/installing. Best practice is to use grease to stick the bearings in place, in particular in the 2 halve end caps.
Possibly something went wrong there and one of the bearing balls was either missing, got dislodged due to improper install or was simply dropped inside the housing and not in the "channel" where it's supposed to go...
Doodly do do. Have a great day Ray Ray
Good morning Mr Ray hope you have a great day, and sorry about having to do a job twice due to cheap junk. You can't even get paid for this, but it makes a great video for us to learn 😊
Its very common with alternator and starters that old ones are just washed and resprayed and sold as rebuilds
Thanks for this. I've always wanted to take apart one of those recirculating-ball steering gears.
Wow, any other shop probably wouldn't have caught that and let the owner deal with it. Great catch Ray.
good saying Ray "if its new doesn't mean it works" . i traveled from our farm to adelaide city 150kms to buy a new sunbeam electric fry pan i got it home and it didn't work,when i buy something new now i make the sales ppl plug it in and show me it works cheers mate
a little welding, grinding and paint and they'll never know you cut it apart
Thanks for the autopsy video Ray, its always fun to dissect bad parts and find out what the cause was.
that is shocking. especially so when it's such a critical safety related item. I bet the supplying company will have something to say about it.
Minute 2:24 the hole in the case is visible on the left side of the steering box. The one to insert a punch for the removal of the snap ring. Its small 3/32" or so, but its there. Tap in an appropriate sized punch and then get behind the snap ring with a small screw driver and pry it out. Box was junk, but cutting it up was hard to watch. Did you toss it out then and just lose the core charge? I think there are two sizes of ball bearings as well. At least there are in the gm boxes i have worked on. Oh well... onward and upward! Keep up the content!
i suspect we'll hear of an update on this
I have 25 years as a custom steering gear remanufacturer. That is a hydraulic steering gear. Not a manual steering gear. In order to operate properly it needs hydraulic high pressure fluid supplied . What your trying to do when turning the steering wheel with out the truck running,. Would be similar to trying to move a back hoe bucket or rear digging boom with out the tractor running. The piston end cap is easily removed with a pin punch inserted in the 1/8" diameter hole located in the housing casting at the end of the steering gear. Tap the pin punch with a hammer will remove the round keeper ring from the steering gear. Movement can almost always be seen from the aluminum piston cap in most GM 800 series steering gear boxs. This does not mean that there is a problem with the steering gear box. There is only a bushing in the top cap not a bearing. All power steering gears will make mechanical noise if being operated without a functioning power steering pump supplying the correct volume and fluid pressure.
Why was there wear, pitting and rust inside?
obvious he does not understand the mechanism, part changer vs specialist, failing power steering pump then?
this box was probably alreayd toast.. judging from the amount of fluid, they probably started the truck and observed the popping and cracking.. im guessing one or more of those bearings got away or there was just binding.. maybe the lash screw turned too far in.. if that was in fact just a paint N go job, vs a new or reman part that would make sense as often people just turn the lash screw thinking they are "removing play"...
You must work for BBK. Trying so hard to defend the bs junk part.
he wants to max parts markup profit, $200 vs $900, eats the 2x labor.@@XxTWMLxX
What a cool autopsy Ray!! Thank you for that!!
It's like someone had a busted unit, cleaned it up a bit, resprayed it. Ordered a new one from there but sent it back (as maybe a wrong part) but put the broken one in the packaging and kept the good one, thus getting a new part free!
Been doing my own mechanic work 40 years. Seen junk sold as new many times. Very common with the big box junk yards...aka discount parts houses.
Possibly in the world of rebuilt parts something like this happens. I hope this is an exception rather than the rule. And I hope whomever supplied the part stands behind it and covers the labor & part to make it right. Thanks for the "autopsy" of the steering box. Interesting, indeed.
The paint brush glob job finish was suspect on ‘new’ unit. Great video!
Many rebuilders like Cardone have been using cheap Chinese internal parts. Their source is China. The issue is the lack of consistent quality in things like gaskets, O rings and seals. Our shop makes an effort not to install parts sourced from China, sadly we don’t always have a choice. Now we’re finding out that Chinese investors purchased many American parts distributors. It’s all about more money for cheap parts. Corporate greed caused this problem.
Love the autopsy videos!
I hope you got a credit for the part and labor. If the dealer got ripped off he also needs to be reimbursed.
Yep. It's smoked. The fact that the piston rack was banging the front plug tells me that the sector shaft was not put in on center tooth. Did you by chance check to see if it had full stop to stop steering?
quite a bit of play on the end of that pitman shaft too. At least you caught it before it killed someone.
That big star nut around the sector shaft, is how you disassemble the gear. It locks the collar jam nut. Then the hole assembly comes out the other end.
GOOD job Ray very interesting autopsy
Gotta respect your dedication to ensuring only good parts make it!
I like how you look into bad parts to show how "new" parts are not always new or good. I hope the company sees this and gets a new one back to you at no cost, plus the extra cost of replacing it again.
I think you should show this video to the parts suppliers, you had something similar a few weeks back when what was in the box was not what was on the box, think is was the oil cooler upgrade you did??… some one had swapped the parts over and sent a crap one back. Some one needs to pay you for doing this twice! It’s not your fault the part is crap. Great video as always Ray. 😊
Awesome taking one for the team Ray! 👏
The absolute state of aftermarket parts right there.
The part that most call a "worm gear" is actually a "lead screw". The popping noise most commonly comes from the ball bearings sliding/skidding instead of rolling due to wear or defects... What a crappy piece!
And yet ANOTHER informative autopsy !!! Great to see the inner workings of automotive components.
The gear was not the problem, the mounting bolts through the frame is where the noise was from.
Well done Ray
This is a problem in aviation as well. Pilot writes up a radio, the mechanic swaps the radios around, and they find that it is indeed bad. Get a new one out of the box and it's broken as well~
Great video, and so typical these days!
It would be interesting to me to know the outcome of your findings. Great vid, stay safe.
Yep, I purchased a pump for my jaguar from them and also had issues. Looked inside and it was all old damaged parts... not an easy job on a jag at all so I was pissed but the oem pump was 800bucks.... I got another reman from lares and it's been solid for 2 years so far
The algorithm has once again been upto it's old tricks not bothering to send out notifications. Nice to get my required dose of the rainman today, I've been feeling the absence these past few days.
Putting those ball bearings back is a pain. (you need a special taper pin). I know, I rebuilt my gear in my Aunts driveway in Seward Alaska. There were 2 prior cases of fluid leaks (original at 19K miles, The warranty unit less). My rebuild lasted 60K (vehicle retired). IMHO the over painted nuts was a clue something was hinky.
Oh boy does that bring back memories! During my time as a tech for the local government repairing police and civilian vehicles, we had contracts with local "repair" and supply outfits for things like carb rebuilds (the days of electronic carbs), alternators, transmissions, and radiators. It was not uncommon the get a "rebuilt" part where they simply sprayed silver paint over the grease and and dirt coating the part and stuck it in a plastic bag and shipped it back to us. You might speculate on who the business owners were friends and donors with.
Sorry to see the part being bad .I've had bad luck with fuel pumps on chevy silverado 6.0 . Also alternators and starters. Im trying to buy denso now. So far they been ok.If Im not in a hurry.I have an excellent rebuilder for alternators and starters nearby.
This is the nonsense that drove me crazy when I was a tech. Dealing with crap aftermarket "reman" parts. The frustration is that if you complain to the parts store or directly to that company, who is going to care or reimburse you for all that wasted time. Probably no one.
Man, this sucks! When I replaced the steering gear on my ‘93 Chevy truck at first I put in a generic O'Reilly Cardone unit that only lasted 2 months before giving up and after that, I just spent the money for a new redhead gear that has not let me down for the good 5 years I've had it on.
This is what some shops do with reman engines. They claim replacement of hard and soft parts but in reality they bought a cheap high mileage engine from a junkyard and cleaned it up and paint
Im glad you took it apart and ended up scrapping it. This ensures another Mechanic and customer doesnt get screwed like you did.
I sandblasted new track chains for a D8 cat dozer, it had partially burnt, new track pads, new interior, a few new hoses and wires, new seat and a fresh coat of cat paint, they loaded it on the lowbed before the paint was even dry!! Mechanics were betting on wether there would be any paint left by the time it got to the buyer!
This company was known for this type of "overhaul"
Such butchery to disassemble, when paint stripper and patience and rust dissolver and endless hours could have discovered, junk. So much obvious wear on the parts is should never have been remanufactured let alone sold as new.
Fake parts can ruin a genuine mechanic's reputation so easily.
Good catch.
Keep scaring the fake part market that they can be exposed.
Cardone is one rebuilder that makes some sloppy steering boxes, I’ve went through several before giving up and just settling for a sloppy steering gear.
One steering gear i got off Rock Auto was a remanufactured unit “for AC DElco” it said on the box, this was the tighter feeling steering gear that i really liked but its cast iron case literally blew up while i was parking in the garage one night.
Get a readhead reman box. Worth the money.
A hardware store in our town tried to sell my daughter a used, inoperative 30 amp breaker. I took it back. Asked them to tell which one was new, the old or the "new" one they sold her. They couldn't. Got her money back PDQ. I bet it was returned and put right back on the shelf.
This is why I rebuild my own parts. It helps to know how to actually disassemble the steering gear and what the parts are called as well!
I changed out a water pump in my wife's 2001 Malibu . 5 years later the water pump bearings froze up and the engine over heated and destroyed the engine. I got the water pump from an auto parts store.
I have never had a water pump fail in just 5 years. That's why I buy all my repair parts now from the car dealer parts department.
Nowadays you can't even buy sparkplug that are not Chi-Com counterfeits. Good video Ray.
Reminds me of a gear box I bought from AZ. It had been cleaned and painted, not rebuilt. Driving straight was okay. Turning either way there was LOTS of slop between the gears. The faster you went the more the truck wandered = dangerous.
Hi Ray, the worm gear holds those balls in place which helps to move the whole steering gear, it's called a recirculating ball steering gear, and from your diagnostic experience, it looks like the worm gear is so worn that it was riding up around the the balls and the whole piston assembly was sliding over and hitting the end plate, hence all the clicks, clacky noise you heard!! I still have a Chilton auto/truck repair book, hardback that my dad used back in the day that shows this type of steering gear in detail and has all the information on how to rebuild such unit back to brand new status !!, whoever "rebuilt " this steering box was really lazy, and the part could have caused a very serious crash!!, get on the parts dealer that sold you this, show them this video! Great job !
thick, black paint....makes it the part it aint. had a similar issue with a ps pump. installed it, bled the system, started it and immediately started to whine. had power steering but whined constantly. glad napa has lifetime warranty on some of their parts. SAVE YOUR RECEIPTS!!!! makes life easier when crap like this happens. i dont blame napa, i blame someone who did the ol switch-a-roo. theres a special place in hell for theives.
i bet the clicky poppy noise was the worn gear slipping. didnt look like there was much left of the worm gear.
thanks, ray for the field trip thru a steering gear case.
Ray, what you're calling A "wormgear" is actually a BALL SCREW. All those ball bearing sit in the helical groove in the shaft & as it rotates it moves the piston. What you were hearing was probably bind and blown out clearances in the ball screw.
It's always good to see Ray doing his mechanic stuff, but it's a real treat when some strange, bizarre happening, garbage company or (potentially) unscrupulous individual activates his Diagnostician Skills
Last time I replaced one I asked parts to get me a rebuild kit. They looked at me like I had 3 heads. Asked me why. Cause I don't trust parts anymore. You almost have to test and fully inspect every part. Atleast now a days, it's good practice to. But costs more time. Ruins flat rate techs.
There is supposed to be a hole where you can used a punch to push the ring out! I have rebuilt several of these! The worm gear and the ball bearings work together and you have to have them in there just right!
Last few words of wisdom "Unbelievable"
Wow! That video was worth the price of admission. Nice job! Do you eat the cost of the new part?
And then some
I really enjoy these autopsy videos , more please .
This is recirculating ball steering mechanism. The inner shaft and out shaft do not actually locate into each directly but do so indirectly via the ball bearings running between them held in the respective spiral grooves. The ‘clicking’ might indicate that not all the ball bearings were installed. Generally the ball bearings are a continuous ‘chain’ running nose to tail and completely fill the conical groove. Count up all the ball bearings to see if you are short of the number specified. On a final note the pinion teeth and the steering arm gear teeth have a machined conical interface that is designed to allow adjustment for wear (end lash) which is achieved by tightening up the pinion end nut effectively pulling the pinion further into the steering arm gear. These steering mechanisms lack the feel of rack and pinion but they make up for it by being hefty and robust.
The Bearings worked themselves into the worm Gear, Causing the worm gear to push the Piston further out than the tolerance and hitting the end cap with the bolt head.
Thanks Ray for exposing this rubbish, I think the rust is bad but as for the worn bits I think that's absolutely disgusting.
All I can say is WOW!!!
I would guess it was a take the new rebuild out and take the one that was making noise that was being replaced cleaned up and slap a fresh coat of paint on it and return it.
Or someone who was on rate and needed a raise so clean, paint and re-box in new box send it down the line. Not good, someone sooner or later going to get hurt or worse.
You are a great and honest mechanic, Ray and do your profession proud.
Good day for a mechanical autopsy.
Universal work holding devices may make your endeavor easier.
Yes. I was screaming early in this video: "A vice is your friend, Ray!!"
@@williampope3531 A vise is a handy friend. The vice squad, not so much.
About 20 years ago I got a "rebuilt" alternator for my 1994 Impala SS, from a major retailer that sells junk. Yeah, most can guess what zone I'm talking about. It had a 1 year warranty, 2 weeks after the warranty expired it started making a HORRIBLE screaming noise. The store said no dice on fudging the warranty by two weeks.
A friend disassembled the alternator and found that when rebuilt they left out the front cover bearing retainer plate, instead using some kind of glue to hold the outside of the bearing to the case. The glue gave out, the shaft moved rearward just enough for the fan to hit the front of the case, and the howling noise began.
My friend, an old retired GM mechanic, had the correct bearing retainer in his stash of old, usable parts he'd amassed over the years, and got me going within a few hours.
I bought a 2011 BMW and it was exactly what I wanted, black interior, straight six, no turbo, premo sound system, and wood, not metal in the dash. Everything worked, every button, every accessory. It developed this vibration and it got worse and worse. I took it to my shop, people who have worked on every BMW I ever owned and they do excellent work. They couldn't figure out the problem. They sent the drive shaft out to get it balanced and same problem. Long story short, the drive shaft was counterfeit, not used or the wrong part. the goddamn thing was counterfeit. The way my shop solved the problem was take a drive shaft off another car and that was the problem, a bad drive shaft. They went back to the people who balanced the thing and asked how they didn't catch it and why it wasn't balanced. Of course, no answer. It's like it's bad enough it cost me $275 a month just to have a street legal car, not to drive it, just to have it, but parts and finding a good shop is a crap shoot. And I have no idea what to do about it.