how to fix e150 e250 e350 e450 e550 Econoline Van ac stuck on defrost !
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2024
- This is a common problem. There are two other videos I found that do this same fix but this is my spin on it which I think is a bit easier to implement.
EDIT: After I made this video I went in again and added a small vacuum canister and check valve under the glove box to prevent the momentary drop out of the vents in the dash when accelerating the truck. Other than that it's still essentially the same fix. The canister I made from a can that I opened up by drilling holes into it and emptying the contents (juice) and then flushing it. I added some brass fittings with 1/8 inch barbed nipples to allow attaching the vacuum hoses. The brass fittings were soldered to the can. The check valve I bought on amazon and is inline with the vacuum line input to the can.
If you don't know how to do all that (soldering, etc.) then you can buy a vacuum canister on amazon as well as the check valve and you're in business.
I just found this video (link below). This guy's fix will be better as he shows exactly where the vacuum line is supposed to go (on the Evap Housing) and you can fix this whole thing by following my video to route the vacuum hose to the passenger side under-dash BUT then referencing his video, buy the vacuum cannister and the check valve and locate them under the dash too. In that way you won't have to remove the evap housing (mucho work under the hood) and it will completely fix your problem!
ruclips.net/video/CJBgPvKBqM4/видео.html
Can you help me only the AC vents on top of the dash work everything that's buy my stereo or in the back does not blow anything and it's hot air btw.
!
under the hood of my crazy 2012 GMC 1500 van it has no wires and no vacuum red line either , where they hide it ?
i just wanted to say thank you again for this video! i fixed my ac today and it's running like a champ!!!🎉🎉🎉
Great video!! my work van got stuck on defrost and boss man didn't want to spend the money to fix it. I found your video and half hour later I had it fixed can't thank you enough!
I had same issue on my 06 e350.
Black line goes to vacuum canister in wheel well. I bypassed it, you must add some type of canister, wherever you can find room under the hood. I used empty 1 lb propane torch tank. Otherwise without vacuum reserve under certain throttle conditions under load (when vacuum is low] it will revert back to defrost, then when vacuum returns it will switch back to previous setting. Don't forget to add check valve on the line from the manifold to hold vacuum in canister. I used a plastic check valve for windshield washer fulid line to wiper hose line to nozzles. Problem solved.
Thanks for the help! Following your video I was able to fix my 2014 Ford E350 in about 30 minutes.
The tubing and a few tubing connectors cost me about 12.00. Who knows how much money you saved me? When you don't know what is wrong people can charge you about anything they want.
Wow thanks soo much for your time dedication this video is so helpful so clear point to point thanks i just fixed that problem i had it for years the mechanics they never found that the problem was in that line
Thanks for your awesome video, my husband a master electrician thinks he knows everything and when I saw him struggling with one of our company vans I RUclipsd what was happening and your video popped up. Needless to say 8 min into the video with your expert advice he had it figured out! He wanted me to thank you all the from San Antonio, Texas! Have a Wonderful week and keep up the good work!
Sir,
Thank you for posting this video. I used it to repair my 2002 E150 conversion van. I followed your steps exactly and my vent system / AC is working perfectly! Thank you so much for taking the time to post this video - You have saved this single father of four a lot of money. This was way easier than any other video I watched and your explanation of procedures was spot on. Thanks again.
I used your method only left the connector ends on the hose. I pulled up quite a bit of hose from the blower housing and cut it off. That way I only had to drill a hole big enough for the hose through the doghouse. I used weedeater fuel line to connect the two hoses. I left the connection just inside the dog house and used red RTV on the hose pass thru hose. Works like a champ. Thanks
WHAT A FIX YOU ROCK. Literally took 10 mins on our mini Winnie. Took longer to take the dog house off. I didnt take the bolt out i drilled a 1/4 hole and feed the line through. Fyi the vacuum ends pull off no need to cut the line from engine compartment. Did like you said and everything worked awesome. 30 and was done. 20 of that wrestling the engine cover. THANK YOU.
Glad it helped. Not sure what you mean when you say you don't have to cut the end because it didn't couple for me. Anyway, I've since installed a vacuum reservoir under the dash. I made it from a can and two brass fittings. I bought some juice, cut a hole in the can to remove the juice and wash it out then I soldered two brass fittings on both ends. I also placed a one-way vacuum check in series.
wow, Simple thank you very much. I live in Florida and it gets hot with A/C not working. so simple and worked perfect.
I can't thank you enough, we've had crazy heat here in Ca., this year. I thought I was going to have to pay top dollar to get it fixed, I watched your video a couple times and went right out and fixed it in about 40 minutes. It works like a champion! Thanks again!
I just wanted to give a big shout out to this fellow for this video. I have a 2000 E450 Motorhome I just bought and I too had the same problem with air flow defaulting to the defrosters. The video was great and I had my problem fixed in a very short time and saved a bunch of money. Thanks and great job on this fix!
Add another name to the list of those who appreciate this video. THANK YOU my friend.
I CANNOT thank you enough! I have been looking for an easy fix to this for over a year. 30 min and $3 of hose...problem solved. Thanks again!
You're welcome. By the way, later I added a vacuum storage vessel (a modified can) and a vacuum one way check valve. If you use just the method in the video, under hard acceleration, you'll notice the momentary drop out of the vents until the vacuum recovers. That's why a storage tank and a check valve is recommended. I commented on this someplace in the comments below.
I did basically this same fix on my 2001 e250. If you take the interior knee panel off on the passenger side you can drill a small hole and fish the tubing thru without taking the engine cover off inside. Pop the access port cove off the top of your dash . That where the vac line junctions to the vacuum switch. I bypassed the entire vac line from under the hood to the vac switch. I personally think the engineer that put the check valve inside the evaporator housing should have his engineering credentials revoked permanently. Oh and I bought a replacement check valve that is now mounted under the access cover on top of the dash.
Dude, this totally fixed the problem. Had it done start to finish in 30 minutes. Thank you so much.
Thank you, I just fixed my 2006 E-350 using a similar technique. I used the existing line as well and drilled through the firewall, leaving the bolt intact. I used kitchen/bath silicone because it was convenient. It took me 20 minutes so thank you for doing the additional leg work. I may add a reservoir later on but right now I have front and rear AC at freeway speeds pulling a load.
Just watched video and in 10 minutes I fixed my van......great video thanks for posting!
Worked great ! Thanks for this post , I used some "Micro Irrigation Tubing" , it fit into the original fitting from the front connection, and over the small black "Vacuum Line". I added RTV on the Black Line and pushed it into the irrigation tubing , and sealed it off with "Shrink tubing " over the connection (small black & irrigation tubing).
Worked perfectly. I ended up drilling because I feel the bolt is there for a reason. But otherwise, perfect tutorial! Thanks
E150 worked like a charm. 20 minute fix. Agreed, just easier to reroute the red vac line back and through the bolt hole. The wire loom protector around the line also fits through. hook up about 12 in. 1/8 id fuel line and voila! CooooLing
Love the video. I followed your instructions and now my ac wor k solo great. Thank you so much
Hay thank you soooo much!!! I fixed my van which had this problem for 5 years....your video is the best!!!!!!!!
Fuckin Ford hunk of shit
thank you for the video! i also am having this problem and i’ve watched so many videos,it’s interesting to see what works for each! i also enjoyed your voice, it reminded me of my cousins in NY! i’m also curious to see what type of van you have, i’d like to see the interior.i have a ‘99 jayco conervesion camper
Just did it and it worked! Thanks alot! My tubing was a little big so I wrapped the vac hose with teflon tape for a snug fit... this video rocks
Excellent!
Best video for this problem on the e150 I could find!! Thank you!
Thank you so much I was stressing till I found this and glad I read the comments to know what happens doing it this way and I can always add a vacuum canister and a check valve under the dash later but for today I have AC and it did not cost a dime!!
I just purchased a 2000 Class C E450 motorhome with the same problem, and this video was just what I needed. I discovered that the rubber connection under the hood worked perfectly to reconnect the tubes inside...no other tubing necessary. It appears that the red line is "sealed" in the black rubber, but it came out with pliers. Then I used the black rubber connector to connect the red to the black. Thanks!
John, you might find that under acceleration you might momentarily lose vacuum. That's because there's supposed to be a vacuum canister and check valve to supply vacuum at that time. The fix you just did bypassed the cannister. I live with this as it's really not much of a problem as it recovers and the vents go back to A/C after the van reaches speed but if you want to have 100% functionality then watch this video. He has a fix for the cannister and check valve. He installed them under the passenger side of the dash.
ruclips.net/video/CJBgPvKBqM4/видео.html
Thanks!
Thanks for the tutorial! I just did this on my 2004 e350 and now the A/C is working.
Did you follow the link below this response. I'll repost it here because this guy does a better job of it. I didn't use a cannister or check valve and the vents will close on heavy acceleration because I have no vacuum storage canister.
ruclips.net/video/CJBgPvKBqM4/видео.html
thanks for the help. I have a 99' E150 and I'm getting ready to tackle this problem.
Just to contribute to the discussion and those looking for solutions.
My 99 E150 blend door problem turned out to be the dash mounted round temperature switch knob itself was broken where the female plastic hole on the back gripped and turned the male control cable mounted inside the control panel.
in other words the temp knob was broken even though it turned...
unusual problem and resolution for sure but I thought worth mentioning.
Very helpful thank you. That fixed the AC in our work van! It's been hot without it recently
Thanks, great video! Fixed my e450 in about half an hour!
Mine is doing the same thing in my E250 Cargo. Thanks a million. I am going to go out and fix it today.
Did it work I have a 2003 e250
@@Myka.1987 It sure did. Thank you. What motor do you have in yours? The 5.4 3 valve or 2 valve?
Awesome! 4.2 engine
Thanks buddy keep it simple I like it that’s exactly what I intend to do thanks again
It worked! Simple fix with the right info - thanks for posting it!
awesome love the part when you say " it goes oh you know " LOL like we are right there with ya learning as we go
thanks a ton
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for the video, it worked great. It was super helpful that you provided the size of the tube needed!
Love it... Thank you Sir...Life Saver
Thank you for the video 👍
awesome video!!! now I have a/c thru the vents once again !!!
Thank you very much, really appreciated!
Great video. It helped me find the right hose and fix my problem. Thank you!
Thank you for putting this video together! I did exactly what you did and it fixed the problem!
Thank you it took just a short time this is a awesome video
Glad you liked it!
Thank you. Worked like a charm.
Haven't done mine yep but it is diesel with a vacuum pump wonder how that will work ?
Gracias
So i got everything going well so far.but doesnt cool up inside .is it the vacune or the blowing fan.this is south florida man.gets hot asap..
Just did it tonite it worked glad i found this video others to in depth this one is right to the point and explained well very nice
Your vents will probably go to defrost again under heavy acceleration then back to what ever's selected because there's no vacuum reservoir or check valve.
If that bothers you you can add that under dash (or in the engine compartment) by installing a small vacuum reservoir and check valve per this guy's video.....ruclips.net/video/CJBgPvKBqM4/видео.html
I just live with mine the way it is.....
kaydee457. Im fine with it !
The vacuum booster is behind the blower motor. Just buy a new one.Mount it under the battery tray. And route that line you had in your hand hiding. To the new booster tank. As your ass has to pull that old one by removing all that AC shit that covers it....
You can drill an access hole in the fender well. To get at the 2 bolts that hold the old booster tank. Then just use sheet metal screws to cover the hole. You still have to remove the passenger fender. To reach it...And you do need that check valve. It prevents the booster from back bleeding.
Awesome... Thanks for the video 🖐️
Thank you, Like your fix...
Nice
Or here's the problem with when you bypass it directly when you step on the gas the vacuum is so strong it goes off the vents
No, you have it backwards. The vacuum drops when you accelerate and slowly recovers when your speed evens out.
I placed a small canister and check valve (home made) under the dash near the glovebox. I described it in the description above. But you can just live with the drop-outs as I did for awhile. It's a minor nuisance, better than stuck in defrost.
Thank you the black hose you spliced back into was the hose that was coupled to the red under the hood? thanks again
It worked for me!! Thanks
Thank you very much problem solve on 2001 e3500
thumbs up... Summer is here in LA and Im hoping my E350' s Air vent problem is just like this easy fix here ...
Great fix thank you !!
So you didn't add a vacuum ball
Got in my 2003 e350 super duty today an would you no it mean is doing the same thing I noticed you have rear air as I do do your rear air stop working as well when front went out my rear vents stop working at some time the front vents did.
My question is does your rear ac from the vents work now as well with your fix.
Truth be told Kenny, I haven't ever checked them as I use this van simply to haul my RC Model airplanes around so the seats in the rear are no longer there. You say I have rear A/C but I only recall having rear heat, not ac.
BTW, if you're going to to this modification it's best to use a vacuum cannister under the dash as I did. Look through the comments and you'll find a description of the installation. I made mine from a sealed can that had some form of liquid (can't recall, but I chose a can with a very thin, easily removed and then rinsed liquid of some sort) in it and I simply drilled holes top and bottom to add some small brass fittings I bought on amazon to use as vacuum in and out. I also used a vacuum one-way valve on the input, again bought on amazon.
Ok I did this also and it worked but I lose the vent a/c under acceleration / incline, comes back as the engine levels out.
You can install a vacuum reservoir under the glove box area. That's what I did. I made a reservoir from a can. I drilled a hole in each side of the (full can) can and drained the contents. I found appropriate sized brass fittings and soldered them to the can top on each side. I placed a vacuum check valve inline with the can.
If you don't have those skills you can buy a reservoir and vacuum check on Amazon. You will need some barbed hose fittings to transition to different sized openings/hoses to make the connections.
In the end it should look like this:
________________________ CHK Valve
To Dash line | RES | _____________
_____________| out in |_____________| >>>>>>>>>>|_______________ to line nearer
|_______________________ | |____________| the foot rest
FLOW >>>>
www.amazon.com/Dorman-47995-Vacuum-Reservoir/dp/B07CPX9H6H/ref=sr_1_8?crid=DOSYWHD8BCSO&dchild=1&keywords=vacuum+reservoir+with+check+valve&qid=1623088493&sprefix=vacuum+reservior%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-8
www.amazon.com/ACDelco-00460734-Original-Equipment-Conditioning/dp/B00HQSXXF8/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=automotive+vacuum+check+valve&qid=1623089643&sr=8-4
I appreciate the response, what type of can did you use.
how come you guys dont put the year your van is??? that would save us some time
2002....
So I'm noticing that some people are installing new reservoir boxes and a new check valve and some people are not. What is the purpose of the reservoir box and why do some people bypass it?
The reason the OEM reservoir is being bypassed is that it's physically very difficult to get at and repair. Do a search and you'll see. It's easier to just bypass it.
The reservoir is nothing more than a storage cell. When the vehicle is under heavy load and accelerating the engine loses vacuum and if not using a storage reservoir this can cause a momentary return to the defrost (default) and then back to AIRCOND or HEAT(floor) when the vehicle reaches cruise speed.
This is nothing more than a minor nuisance in most cases and lasts only a couple seconds. The way to alleviate this is to add a vacuum canister under the dash, in conjunction with a check valve to store enough vacuum to keep the under-dash actuators in the mode you selected during this scenario whereby you're accelerating.
I drove mine without for about a year and added a homemade reservoir after that comprised of a tin can with two nipples I soldered to it and a check valve I bought on Amazon.
A word of caution regarding check valves sold in local parts stores. There is apparently a lot of them that don't work (Dorman brand) and I bought one. Read the reviews and you'll find out that many people have bought the things only to find out that they don't pass any air in either direction (defective).
Buddy excellent video but you're missing the vacuum canister what do you do for vacuum
The vacuum powers the vacuum motors under the dash. Because there's no canister or vacuum check valve (with this fix) you will occasionally lose air from the dash registers when you accelerate. As soon as you reach cruise speed you'll never see any difference. As I mentioned before in other comments you can always build a canister, add a vacuum check valve inline with the hose and install it under the dash near the glovebox. Thus far, I find it a minor nuisance and haven't done that yet.
I see what he did but I would appreciate some clarification if someone would help me. He unplugs the vacuum hose under the hood, pulls the part coming from the doghouse (back of manifold) attaches a tube to that hose, cuts a black hose found near the footwell and connects the new piece of tubing to that. What I don't understand is what happens to the tube connection under the hood that he disconnected. Will that not result in a leak? Does the black hose near the footwell hook up to where the original tube connected?
buster- the line I disconnected under the hood is the vacuum source from the manifold.
The factory routing goes like this: manifold>>under hood connector(source)>>>>>under hood connector output>>>vacuum one-way valve>>>Vacuum storage canister (used only for dash vents)>>>>Vacuum storage canister output>>>>via hose in floor footwell>>>supply to vacuum motors for vents under dash (black hose that I connect to).
The hose (under hood output) that I disconnected goes to the vacuum one-way check valve and the canister, two components that are completely inaccessible without a great deal of disassembly. The output of the canister is the supply for the dash vacuum motors via the footwell. When I disconnect the hose I effectively break open the path. I reconnect the path at the footwell connection.
What I did was to (under the hood) bypass the vacuum check valve and the canister, which are inaccessible, and reroute the vacuum directly to the under-dash motors, LESS ANY CHECK VALVE OR CANISTER.....
I this configuration, the vent controls will work normally, however, since there's no reservoir (vacuum canister) the vents may not work when accelerating the vehicle. Once you reach cruise speed they will quickly operate normally.
I have been driving like this for a couple years now. I just ignore the vents under heavy acceleration as they work normally when I reach speed.
Whoa, long post. Hope this explains this "fix".....
Thank you!
Do that also work for the 2013 Ford Van E-150???
yes.
How does it get stuck ?
How much does a mechanic generally charge for this kind of repair?
This also work for my 93 e150
Was it blowing cold air before fix ?
Mine is stuck in defrost mode also no front flow but also wont blow cold air.
I can't recall. Anyway, one thing at a time. Fix your vacuum leak first so that you can get air through the dash vents and go from there. That line is the primary vacuum that controls all the vacuum motors under the dash. In the meantime you can check to see if your airconditioner is working by turning it on and then feeling the metal hoses as they exit the evap coil on the firewall. You can also see some sweating of the pipes in this kind of weather.
Best One 👍🏾
Great video the only problem I see is that you eliminated the check valve which may cause problems down the road
It's not a problem. The only thing that may happen is that under heavy acceleration you may have the loss of a/c vents momentarily and the defrost will come on but then return back to a/c or heat after the vehicle gets up to speed. This is not a 'problem' for most people but you can add add a vacuum cannister and a check valve under the dash if you want 100% functionality. The momentary dropout doesn't bother me. Read the other comments and you'll find advice on how to add those two things.
have you ever changed one zipsnipe? Its a huge job.
Simply add a vacuum canister and check valve to this set up and mount it under the dash problem solved.
One question, do you have front and rear a/c? I have a 01 e150 and I just don't know if this repair could fix both issues. Great video sir!
I have both front and rear but the rear never worked (I bought this van used). Make sure you visit the video I have here. His fix is more detailed than mine.
ruclips.net/video/CJBgPvKBqM4/видео.html
kaydee457 ... well, that was a quick response; my a/c front and rear worked, and for what I gathered the culprit is the vacuum egr solenoid. I ma try your way, and in the meantime, I gonna order the part I'd just mentioned, if everything goes well you'll be notified in a timely manner. Thank you again!.
Umm, I would simply find the vacuum line to the EGR valve and crimp it off temporarily to see if it's leaking. Use a pair of forceps if you a pair.
That's the only thing that can happen (a leak in the EGR diaphragm) that would affect your ac vents.
If it is bad, then your ac vents will start working again. If it's not bad then you better try my fix. The only thing that can cause the vents to not work is loss of vacuum.
Hey, did you also have a problem with the rear upper vents? If so, did this solve that problem as well?
Frankly, I don't know because I never checked them. I have no seats back there. I didn't know there were any vents back there?......
@@kaydee457 oh, its a cargo van. I have a 15 passenger version!
Oh, by the way... THANKS! It worked in the front. Now to search for a rear fix. Lol!
Nice, clear and concise video. Thank You for posting. Here's another video that goes a little further in installing a new vacuum reservoir and check valve. ruclips.net/video/-192lHUs8nY/видео.htmlsi=Q9xiOSo_58Qk-G0T
I also added a vacuum canister and a vacuum switch. I commented about it in the description as an edit.
The struggle
@soldotnastan- firstly, you clearly don't understand vacuum systems as you cannot, or will not, do any harm to the vacuum motors in the dash by using this method.
The worst thing that happens in this situation is that you get a very temporary return of the airflow through the defrost under heavy acceleration.
The vacuum reservoir is simply a storage container that supplies vacuum, by storage in a vessel with volume using a check valve, to the motors under this situation. Yes many, including myself, have built vacuum reservoirs out of various cylinders, mine from a tin can, two brass nipples and a check valve.
It's totally unnecessary however as I drove around for more than a couple years without it and rarely experienced any change in loss of air through the front vents. It was just a minor nuisance.
Did you ever find the leak?
The area is completely inaccessible without an absurd amount of disassembly in the area of the passenger side wheel well. I don't recall the specifics but the area in question is below the evaporator housing on the firewall and there's no simple access and can't be seen from the engine compartment. So the answer is no.
Does ur defrost still work two?
Yes.
It's works thanks so much
Sweet. Thanks man. Check out my van build on my channel.
So you bypassed the vacuum Resiovor..why didn't you install a new vacuum Resiovor and just stuff it up under the dash board..then you will never have problems with your AC.chokeing out on you,, especially when you accelerate on to the freeway..
I did exactly that. I think I made a comment about it somewhere in the thread....