Thank you so much!! I was able to follow along and understand how this works! I just ordered my Same Radiolink as this because I been hearing so many good things about the radiolink! And I am watching the videos trying to learn as much as I can before I start install !
I just got into the hobby this summer. Im starting a new rock crawler build and i was just browsing around my local hobby shop looking for a decent 4 channel. I have a scx10chassis with a 2 spd trans and 12t550 so i need a extra channel for my transmission. Guy at the hobby shop sold me this today for 50$ It has so much going on it’s overwhelming. Great video man thanks a bunch!
Great video! I have the RC4GSV2 that I picked up when I bought a used rig with no radio/reciever. I have since switched it over to my stock Kraton 6s and still fiddling with the features. I love the range I get with the RadioLink over the stock Spektrum SLT3. The park I run at the most often is hilly and wide open, I can easily lose sight of my truck now if I am not careful. Looking forward to your detailed features video, as there are not many that help with this.
Great vid man. All great information this is exactly what I needed. One thing is I highly recommend not using double sided tape. If you ever wanna take out the receiver, it will break while removing.
Awesome Video !!! I have a CEN Reeper monster Truck and it came with a crappy radio so I purchased this radio and WOW very nice radio plus I'm using the gyro works perfect !!!!!!
you can assign channels and change there functions too. swa etc. i run crossfire on my v1 which has all the same firmware just lacking a button . use ch 3 for snow plow, easy adjustment of blade. have also used it for a winch. , id seed is sweet , haul the sonicwake to the creek with the crawler back in switch model and back boat off. great radio for fpv . and there are other rx that work but haven't tried them 20 buck rx waterproof long range
Late to the party but I hope this helps and btw I've been running the V2 since it came out and friggin love it! ... I removed the receiver box attached to the battery tray and using an extra section of antenna tubing I liquid electric taped it along the bottom on the driveshaft side and just reassemble running one antenna through it. You can just pull the antenna out if need be and you can barely see what's going on so it looks clean and you get all of that range love! For the telemetry I cut the jst off the adapter and soldered direct to the base of the esc as you would if you were running a cap pack . Perfect length for it as well as you'll notice the wires are thicker than what you get if you buy those bulk just connectors . Battery for the controller? 4s of course . My only and minor gripe here and hopefully they fixed with the V3 but it only reads up to 15.4V even though the battery is fully charged. Hope this gives people ideas! And yo East! Keep it up bud! Great stuff!
Nice! Thanks for commenting. There’s no such thing as late to the game my friend. Regarding the read out for the battery only going up to 15.4 I actually think that’s intentional because technically you should only charge Lipo batteries that are going to sit at a full state for a very long period of time up to storage level maybe even a little bit above that to be safe. So actually if you take storage level which is about 3.85 V per sell and multiply that times four you actually get that 15.4. I know it sounds strange to only insert batteries at less than full capacity but if you think about it, the time it takes to go from 15.4 V down to LVC is like… Forever. So you might as well play it safe with them Lipo batteries sitting at near full charge for long periods.
@@EastTactics right right just as you explained in your video it's just that's about the only thing I could think of that was even remotely negative to say about the device lol .. well that and my peticular radio came with some kind of debris trapped under the screen that's annoying to look at . And what a turn of events it snowed just a little this morning and I had been planning on doing my kraton annual full rebuild and took it out for one last rip and now the receiver is bugging out like some wire is bad and I'm not getting power to it . I love troubleshooting so this will be interesting. And having seen that you did a dual battery for yours I just wanted to say I poured over batteries for mine for about a month and chose the 1050mah tattu from gens ace and just spliced a jst off the xt60 it came with. I'm sure you found that thickness was the biggest hurdle in your search as it was for me because I still have lots of room in the compartment so I put foam in to get a more solid feel . Cheers!
Doing an fpv setup... gona put my camera/ subsystem battery to this and the voltage display (buying a plug in thing basically) will go somewhere near the camera so I can pan or tilt to look at it when need be
I have this remote and receiver i spent for 84 dollars and its worth it 👌 have this for my kyosho 1970 dodge charger rc and i need programming to make the lights to work and i have my rc made as the duke o death from gta5 and to have the roof lights and underglow and to make adjustments for the driving experience more fun😊
Hi mate great video like the radolink rc6gs-v3 I'm defoe getting mine. Because I've got the old flysky gt3b at the moment. That only holds 10 models but when I seen this it holds 30 models that fantastic brilliant. What I'm worried about is the 2 wires what comes out of the receiver box. But the gyro is brilliant not sure if I keep mine on all the time mate 👍
Yeah, it’s a challenge finding a unique way to get those wires out of the box and ensuring that the transmitter it’s good reception to them.. and yes, regarding the gyro. You’re definitely said that to the turn dialed in for the most part will probably keep it off. But it’s fun to mess around with.
Yeah, I’m referencing the two 4s batteries that are being pointed out in my separate video. You’ll notice a thumbnail pops up and arrows point at both of them. Those two batteries are found on Amazon… link in description of the following video: Best Lipo batteries for your RC transmitter - Parallel mode & Best practices - Radiolink RC6GS V3 ruclips.net/video/Z2sY509dfnw/видео.html
If it had temperature sensor in it's telemetry system (for Nytro) I would buy it. Not having temperature is a missed opportunity, when they already have link capable to send signal back with telemetry
@@Ketoholic I saw them advertized as I6X Radio/ IA6B Receiver telemetry modules. Are you sure that sensors are compatible with this car radio ant its receivers?
How I know if the receiver is defective or the trasmitter because this receiver don't want to bind? Soo I goin to try to put in firt mode to get the green led and is supposed to pair whit the receiver right???
@EastTactics Being that this video is almost 1 year old, would you say this is better than the Spektrum Dx5 rugged? All of my car already have Spektrum receivers and I wouldn't use most of its functions, I really just want to get rid of some transmitters lol I got 12 now! 😅 Mostly dx3s Felony, Kraton, Typhon, Talion, big rock, infraction, Vendetta and a few odd projects but they all have Spektrum receivers.
Functionality and control, slightly better, aesthetics, and feel slightly worse. Range much better… Overall …better yes But not by much. Both are great
My RadioLink malfunctions bypassing failsafe and my Kraton jumped off the 4000 ft canyon. It's still at the bottom I can't reach it. 😂 . I'm Just kidding, I don't even own a Radiolink, lol. Giving you a hard time. Great Tech video as usual.
My receiver flashing red, blue and purple..reason because i presst the little buttons because this receiver don't want to bind soo now is flashing 3 color and still doesn't pair whit the transmitter I don't know what I doing wrong?
All 4S batteries won't come with the JST connector because the voltage is higher than that connector is made for. 4S will have an EC3, or an XT60 connector. I bought a set of lithium rechargeable AA batteries that do 1.55v per cell... 9.2 total and it lasts forever.. and obviously they fit perfectly with the included AA tray.
Yeah, that’s perfectly fine, however…if the transmitter is capable of handling, 15.4 V, though why not take advantage of it and see how it impacts range performance. You’re correct the 4s batteries do not come outfitted with JST connectors. So you do have to do a little bit of work to convert but it’s a simple work and totally worth it. This video showcases how to take advantage of 1100 mA of 4s power, run in parallel can be outfitted inside these transmitters. And that rocks! ruclips.net/video/Z2sY509dfnw/видео.html
Coming from FPV world, I wish there a transmitter that had EdgeTX (OpenTX) so just program and button to do anything including what you would like for disabling the gyro.
Yeah that would be nice. I’m not very familiar with that TX stuff, however it sounds versatile. You do gotta give kudos to Radiolink for at least being light years above most offerings in the land radio arena.
You can disable the gyro remotely with Flysky Noble, Futaba, Spectrum, Airtronics and many other radios. You can program all the Aux channels to do what you want. I fly fpv too. I have 9 channels that I program on my crawlers to do all kinds of features from lights, winch, and rock lights. Drag brake, fpv camera, gyro on and off for jumping. So not sure why you would need open TX for RC cars when you already can run as many functions as you want to depending on how many channels your radio has.
I heard that the v3 will bind to certain spectrum receivers, maybe you can verify that with radio link. I just got mine in and if that’s true I’d like to know which receivers it would be.
I’ve never heard that, not saying it isn’t possible. But the simplest thing would be to give the binding a try and see if it links up. From my understanding binding of any kind between a receiver and transmitter is Brand specific.
@@EastTactics I will give it a shot. I love the idea that the r7fg has the gyro and wil not pull power from the car…for that reason I will be ordering more of them for my speed run cars. I will let you know if I’m successful binding my bashers to the stock receiver…🤞thank you for the response
@@EastTactics I am a complete beginner and I do not understand many things Rc experts talk about there is so much information but i find this video helpful. Could this control work with cheaper small RC cars under 200 and do you need to use different batteries for different things in the car? I see you use fans; do you have to add them? and does one battery power the fans and another one make the actual car run and if I upgrade my car to this controller would I have to use more powerful batteries than the original ones my car comes whith? I am also concerned and a little confused on storing a battery of that power safely. Can the antennas be used during rain and is the setup waterproof?
Great questions, everything regarding RC is typically water resistant. Particularly in the higher model. I can’t say the same about low budget RC under $200. Or RC from Walmart. But everything in the total hobby grade RC Arena is water resistant. Not waterproof. They’re OK to get water on them with the rain, etc. But extensive water could cause issues. Transmitter receiver combo is just a combo. Meaning you need the receiver and the transmitter to make the RC run. Not being sad if you put the receiver into a lower budget RC then you should be able to control that lower budget RC just fine because it’s the receiver itself that is communicating to the transmitter. And you don’t buy one without the other. Regarding the batteries that you put inside of the transmitter. This doesn’t matter. Something might be able to be said if you’re going super long range and you are using more powerful batteries in the transmitter. However, it’s debatable. I don’t think that the transmitter range is directly correlated with the power in the batteries. But I could be wrong. Either way, the battery itself is not really what gives this particular combo awesome perks. You’re gonna get way above beyond range no matter what batteries you use in the transmitter. I just like to use the best of the best and it’s capable of running batteries at 4s. Then why not maximize it The batteries that you use to control the transmitter are completely separate from the rig. The rig itself will runoff a variety of batteries, depending on what rig your running. in my Kraton uses 6s, Lipo batteries. If you decide to upgrade your fans, there are options to run those fans on a completely separate battery if you choose. However, there are ways to run the fans off of the main battery balance terminal. The RC car will run off the main big thick terminal. And you can plug your fans into the balance terminal used for balance charging output . Believe it or not that thing outputs power If you have a rig like mine, a great company to look at is hyper flow fans. He has a kit you can buy to run high-powered fans from your battery (main battery) For a long time, used to run my fans from a separate 3S battery. I no longer do that. However, believe it or not, I also don’t run my fans from the main battery Either. at least directly …there is plug-in in my ESC that I simply plug my fans into. One could also plug their fans directly into the receiver, which is the little tiny square box that you put in your RC if it has an extra opening for it. Hope that answers some of your questions
@@EastTactics thank you I still have to research about cameras but that is a whole different thing lol. So, i dont have to add fans if i choose not to and choosing not to add them won't be dangerous right? I have watched adhd rc and i want to be able to do what he does or at least to some level just having fun around the neighborhood burning rubber and interacting whith others virtually.
23:47 Active gyro will turn your wheels into the correct orientation in air, for the landing (think about World Rally). Should help counteract the rotation, not contribute to it.
To your point what you’re saying makes sense. However, most people consider being airborne some thing they need total and complete control over themselves. Trying to counteract the AI might prove difficult. I’ll have to do a little bit of testing to see if the Gyro actually helps or if in fact, it hurts. Will let you know.
@@EastTactics maybe you mean for backflips. If that's the case, I'll bet the gyro DOES fight you on that. OK, let us know and thanks for all the work on that video, I'm going to use it as a reference. Ordering this stuff up (Tx and extra receivers)
With the length of the antennas, do your antenna tubes go up through the body as well? I decided to avoid going up through the body simply because I don’t want the antennas to get destroyed on a bad wreck
You can change the Forward and reverse of your motor by either changing the settings in the ESC. Watch my instructional video on the firma 160. Another way to do it is a simply swap the outside two wires on your motor leads
The fact that you lose throttle only is a huge blessing with this receiver transmitter. With the stock one. At loss of range, your vehicle has a potential ( which is high) to simply takeoff. You’re losing connection? At what range? Because you are going to lose connection, especially if you are behind large objects, trees, or buildings.
My concern is, there are other speed racers running exact, same set up and they don't have an issue at all, and we are all running on the same road at the same time I would say about a football field link I lose signal and either direction! I put a new receiver on it today. I will see how it goes.
Hey bud quick question I’m having a headache I have a erevo 1/10 dual brushed motors dual servos and I just bought the same remote but I can’t get the car to turn all the way right or left ,I posted a video of the issue maybe you can help having the same remote and thanks.
I really don’t know a whole lot about setting up dual motors or dual service. For sure a remote/receiver combo that’s capable, it would definitely be the RC6Gs. It sounds to me like there may be a setting when you are running to servos that needs to be adjusted because perhaps the system thinks there’s only one so it’s only giving 50% radius to both. But you need to go in and activate 100% by navigating to each respective channel, connected to the servo and opening up the range. But this is just a guess because again, I’ve never set it up. Sorry I couldn’t be more help.
I need some help. I have the Hobbywing Fusion quickrun SE 1800kv running a 2s lipo 7.4v. My transmitter is RadioLink RC6GS V3. I have paired the remote with the motor but it runs crappy. I think i need to change some settings within the transmitter and i dont know how could you help? Also my reciever is red but the transmitter works i can drive and steer but like i said its crappy so i dont think is bound correctly...
Out of your ESC, you’ve got a cable that is the out for your on off switch to the ESC, you’ve got your main thick power cables to go to your battery, and you have one wire (which is comprised of three) that will go to your receiver. Typically this will go into the spot marked TH for throttle. Now your servo will have its own wire again comprised of three. Which will go into your receiver in slot, titled steering. However, you’re saying that somehow you have two separate wires for steering? Where are these two separate wires coming from, the only wires that you should have dedicated for string should becoming directly from your servo. And there should only be one set of three going into a single JST. Check the description of this video and at the top you should see a link for the ability to submit a Asq me question, include photos
@@EastTactics thank u, that’s where I’m lost one wire goes to one servo to turn left another servo to turn right and only one location for steering on my new radiolink
Who is the best person to contact if I have technical issues with Radiolink transmitters? Each of our products comes with an instruction manual, and they can contact the email on the manual directly. The email address is after_service@radiolink.com.cn
Hey man have had the radiolink v3 for a few days but noticed when I turn gyro on it wiggles back and forth any feedback would be nice...not sure if I'm doing something wrong as I have the orientation right..
You’re able to adjust the magnitude of the Gyro by turning the dial right? If not, you want to activate that feature. I noticed too when I had the Gyro at 100% it would make the vehicle do that. You’ll never want a Gyro to be at 100%.
@EastTactics yeah I am but even when setting to maybe around a quarter of the vr knob it still wobbles going to go and test again soon once it stops raining..I'll keep you informed thanks for the quick response
I’ll be doing a lot of experimenting with the warm season with the Gyro. And to be completely honest with you I don’t have a whole lot of high expectations for me to use it all that much. The receiver is amazing even without the Gyro function. And it’s cool to have at least the ability to play with it. But there’s probably a good chance that I’ll keep it dialed super low if on at all. With more time testing it out there that could change and I might find that I love it. Stay tuned.
@@EastTactics The JST to the xt60 connectors for battery telemetry. I thought I heard someone say you have to run that, but I tested it out earlier for myself and figured out you don't need to. Also how would you use those 3 position switches to change the throttle percentage? Do you need something plugged into that channel to do so? You brought it up in the video at 17:47. I honestly have no clue how to set that up.
It is not required to run that telemetry dongle. You can choose to leave it out completely. In fact, I do not run it directly to my main battery. I chose to run it to my fan battery. But again I could’ve chose to completely leave it out as well. Regarding your desire to assign variable functions to your throttle, utilizing one of those switches. You can achieve this without doing anything unique regarding installment. Simply by installing your transmitter/receiver the regular way by plugging your throttle, and steering into auxiliary one and two is all that is needed to achieve This feat. The set up is as follows, simply go into option 13 called duel rate (D/R). Once there you’ll see a layout of all of your channels, but in the top left, you will see one called SW. More than likely that is set to Null at the moment click enter on that and change it to the switch that you want to incorporate this function. For example, SWB is the switch that is sitting in the 11 o’clock position on your controller. Once you’ve assigned sw to SWB, you’ll notice that if you toggle that switch, it will change on the screen in the top right corner from center, to down, to up, etc. depending on its position. Now from here, simply adjust the TH (throttle) to the number desired depending on the position of the switch. For example, if you want that switch to be down and your throttle to max out at 25%, then change the TH to 25. Then move the switch to the center position and keep it at say 100 for full throttle. Then move the switch to the up position and assign it to say 50% (50). Now when you leave that setting for the duel rate (setting 13) where the SW (again top left option is that to SWb). And then back out, you will notice that whenever that switch is in those different positions your throttle will follow suit. Let me know if that makes sense, if not, we can set up a time where perhaps a phone call could be in order and I can help walk you through it
@@EastTactics This explanation is what I needed, I get the procedure. But if I have any trouble getting it to work I'll let you know 👍👍 thanks a bunch.
Hi Sir, i have a HOSIM X07 and i want to install a RADIOLINK V3 but don't know where to get the SERVO 3 WIRE. Should i get the 3wire from the MOTOR going to ESC? Many Thanks
I'm not 100% sure what you're talking about, but I'll take a shot at trying to answer. The wires connecting from the motor to your ESC are completely a separate thing regarding your "receiver/transmitter package" they are much thicker wires and they have a dedicated place to connect into the ESC. The ESC however, does have a three wire that comes out from the ESC with a JST and connector. The jST and connector will connect into your receiver. tthere will also be a three wire that comes from your servo ending in a JST connection also. This will connect into your receiver as well. I hope this answers your question
@@dpyvett2261 no wires go directly from the motor to the receiver. The only thing that goes to the receiver is wires from the ESC, and wires from the Servo.
Sorry, I’ve been busy working my regular 8 to 5. Have you confirmed that your jst connectors are plug-into the place and facing the right right direction?
Sounds like it could be a setting on the transmitter, or perhaps, check your throttle endpoints. There might even be a switch or toggle that is not set correctly. With this transmitter, you really got to take the time to read the instructions and understand how to adjust things like throttle, dual rate, etc. be sure not to skip around in the video as well and just try to absorb everything you can because I cover a lot of these topics.
I have the RC6GS V2. How do I set up different throttle rates?? Like Arrma Vehicles transmitters. They have 50%,75% and 100%. Lets say the 3 tier switches on that transmitter, how do I set center point to 100% throttle and left and right points to 50% n 75%? Is it possible?
Yes, this is possible.. You’ll do this in the D/R setting area. That stands for Duel rate. You can change the dual rate for the throttle on any one of the switches. So in your case you would probably want it to be assigned to one of the two three tier switches, found at 11 o’clock and 1 o’clock. I assigned mine to the three tier switch in the 11 o’clock position, And on the V3 they’ve set that Switch to be called SWB. There’s a chance that it might be different on the V2. Anyway once in the D/R setting, the top left quadrant is the one asking you which switch you are going to change. You’ll know you’re on the right one if physically toggling the switch changes the display in the upper right corner of the screen from displaying the words, left, center, right. Anyway adjust the throttle (TH) to a different number for each position. That’s it. If this doesn’t make sense, you can reach out to me via Facebook and we can connect perhaps even via the phone. I do plan on dropping a video shortly that will explain this, And many many other things regarding deep dive on the settings.
@@EastTactics Appreciate the detailed response. I was thinkin maybe I needed the V3, because I seen some new feature about dual rate added to the V3. Happy to know I dont. It sounds fairly simple. I will attempt to do it once I get off work later this evening. Im usually good at figuring out things once Im pointed in right direction but if I somehow cant figure it out, will comment here later. Again, thank you!
How are you powering the transmitter? Are you using the classic AA batteries? It sounds to me like they must be way too low on power. Try replacing all of the batteries with brand new batteries. Let me know.
You say about using the switches for fans & lights, it not that straightforward, we cant connect 2 cables to a CH & use the switch, they just stay on. We have to buy a Led on/off electronic reciver switch & use it for Any kind of addon like fans. For buttons to work they need the electronic switch with 3 wires you then plug your 2 wire leds/fans in to it then into a channel. i think this is stupid, iv just ordered the new dumbrc radio it uses FHSS like radiolink & some of the other dumborc recivers wich are compatible look identical to the radiolink link, hope they work iv loads of radiolink recivers & im sick of the braking the radiolink ariel
I was under the impression that if you assigned a light or a fan etc. to the appropriate position in the receiver. You can then within the settings on the transmitter change it so that it can be activated in on off setting or it could be set up to be activated while holding the button down, etc. I however, have yet to actually set up a light or a fan on a specific unused channel, but will likely in the near future.
So as you may know I communicate directly with Radio link. And this is actually a topic we've discussed. I have a private video, that can only be view if you have the link. Its a video I sent to Radiolink to view to help give them suggestions regarding ways to facilitate telemetry to their fan base. It might be useeful for you to watch. hope its helpful ruclips.net/video/ezVqiM7G_zc/видео.html
After three uses my throttle trigger does not return to center. Going to have to give this controller a one out of five stars. Edit: The company is sending me a whole new unit. Told me not to even bother sending back the defective unit.
Sorry to hear the difficulty brother, in my experience, this things been amazing, and I’ve never seen a bad review land yet in all of my videos on the topic over this last year. To me, it sounds like a potential one off issue you’re having which I might suggest simply reaching out to radio link, I’m sure they’d work with you if there is a defect. Another thing to consider …being that this controller is literally programmable in every function is doing a factory reset to get everything re-centered, or specifically looking into your throttle settings, which could be fully adjusted to either counter the issue or remedy it. Also, you might set your throttle endpoints on your ESC, just to be sure, that’s not the issue after installing a new receiver and transmitter
@@EastTactics I would have sent it back to Amazon and exchanged it. I use the power wire from the battery box on a lipo. Emailed radio link and explain the situation. They are sending a whole new unit to me. Told me not to even bother sending back the defective one. That's pretty solid.
Thank you so much!! I was able to follow along and understand how this works! I just ordered my Same Radiolink as this because I been hearing so many good things about the radiolink! And I am watching the videos trying to learn as much as I can before I start install !
I just got into the hobby this summer. Im starting a new rock crawler build and i was just browsing around my local hobby shop looking for a decent 4 channel. I have a scx10chassis with a 2 spd trans and 12t550 so i need a extra channel for my transmission. Guy at the hobby shop sold me this today for 50$ It has so much going on it’s overwhelming. Great video man thanks a bunch!
For sure! Glad you found it useful
My transmitter comes tomorrow.. im excited!!!
Nice!!!
Great video! I have the RC4GSV2 that I picked up when I bought a used rig with no radio/reciever. I have since switched it over to my stock Kraton 6s and still fiddling with the features. I love the range I get with the RadioLink over the stock Spektrum SLT3. The park I run at the most often is hilly and wide open, I can easily lose sight of my truck now if I am not careful. Looking forward to your detailed features video, as there are not many that help with this.
Never mind that's such a smart idea how you drilled those holes bud
Radiolink are champs for this controller. I can't believe the features for the price.
Great vid man. All great information this is exactly what I needed. One thing is I highly recommend not using double sided tape. If you ever wanna take out the receiver, it will break while removing.
Thanks!
Great information I'm definitely sold... I currently have a gt5 but I'm not super pleased anymore. Thanks for the closure on knowing what I wanted.
You sir did a fantastic job with this video!!! You answered every question I had about figuring this out. Thank you !!!!
Just got this controller to run my Rally cars. Thanks for doing these videos.
🤜🤛
Awesome Video !!! I have a CEN Reeper monster Truck and it came with a crappy radio so I purchased this radio and WOW very nice radio plus I'm using the gyro works perfect !!!!!!
Literally a million facets! Literally!
you can assign channels and change there functions too. swa etc. i run crossfire on my v1 which has all the same firmware just lacking a button . use ch 3 for snow plow, easy adjustment of blade. have also used it for a winch. , id seed is sweet , haul the sonicwake to the creek with the crawler back in switch model and back boat off. great radio for fpv . and there are other rx that work but haven't tried them 20 buck rx waterproof long range
Late to the party but I hope this helps and btw I've been running the V2 since it came out and friggin love it! ... I removed the receiver box attached to the battery tray and using an extra section of antenna tubing I liquid electric taped it along the bottom on the driveshaft side and just reassemble running one antenna through it. You can just pull the antenna out if need be and you can barely see what's going on so it looks clean and you get all of that range love! For the telemetry I cut the jst off the adapter and soldered direct to the base of the esc as you would if you were running a cap pack . Perfect length for it as well as you'll notice the wires are thicker than what you get if you buy those bulk just connectors . Battery for the controller? 4s of course . My only and minor gripe here and hopefully they fixed with the V3 but it only reads up to 15.4V even though the battery is fully charged. Hope this gives people ideas! And yo East! Keep it up bud! Great stuff!
Nice! Thanks for commenting. There’s no such thing as late to the game my friend.
Regarding the read out for the battery only going up to 15.4 I actually think that’s intentional because technically you should only charge Lipo batteries that are going to sit at a full state for a very long period of time up to storage level maybe even a little bit above that to be safe. So actually if you take storage level which is about 3.85 V per sell and multiply that times four you actually get that 15.4.
I know it sounds strange to only insert batteries at less than full capacity but if you think about it, the time it takes to go from 15.4 V down to LVC is like… Forever. So you might as well play it safe with them Lipo batteries sitting at near full charge for long periods.
@@EastTactics right right just as you explained in your video it's just that's about the only thing I could think of that was even remotely negative to say about the device lol .. well that and my peticular radio came with some kind of debris trapped under the screen that's annoying to look at . And what a turn of events it snowed just a little this morning and I had been planning on doing my kraton annual full rebuild and took it out for one last rip and now the receiver is bugging out like some wire is bad and I'm not getting power to it . I love troubleshooting so this will be interesting. And having seen that you did a dual battery for yours I just wanted to say I poured over batteries for mine for about a month and chose the 1050mah tattu from gens ace and just spliced a jst off the xt60 it came with. I'm sure you found that thickness was the biggest hurdle in your search as it was for me because I still have lots of room in the compartment so I put foam in to get a more solid feel . Cheers!
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Cool remote and receiver, great information and video
I love this video I been curious about this since I got mines V2.... these antennas 🧐👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Sweet video bro you kill these tech videos
Thx!!
I use battery telemetry so I can stop before my rc hits low voltage cutoff when I could be I'm the air and then lawn dart into the ground.
Thinking of getting one.for my revo 3.3 but i guess it can be programmed for the opti drive
I’m not familiar with the how to on that. But if any 3rd party transmitter could it be radiolinks
Let's get right into it he says @ the 3:45 mark..lol
Ha ha… If I got a dollar for every minute past my saying that… I’d be a rich man
Doing an fpv setup... gona put my camera/ subsystem battery to this and the voltage display (buying a plug in thing basically) will go somewhere near the camera so I can pan or tilt to look at it when need be
Nice
I have this remote and receiver i spent for 84 dollars and its worth it 👌 have this for my kyosho 1970 dodge charger rc and i need programming to make the lights to work and i have my rc made as the duke o death from gta5 and to have the roof lights and underglow and to make adjustments for the driving experience more fun😊
That’s awesome!!
Hi mate great video like the radolink rc6gs-v3 I'm defoe getting mine. Because I've got the old flysky gt3b at the moment. That only holds 10 models but when I seen this it holds 30 models that fantastic brilliant. What I'm worried about is the 2 wires what comes out of the receiver box. But the gyro is brilliant not sure if I keep mine on all the time mate 👍
Yeah, it’s a challenge finding a unique way to get those wires out of the box and ensuring that the transmitter it’s good reception to them.. and yes, regarding the gyro. You’re definitely said that to the turn dialed in for the most part will probably keep it off. But it’s fun to mess around with.
👍
Did you ever figure out what 4s battery fits best? I looked in the description and it's not there. 14:24
Yeah, I’m referencing the two 4s batteries that are being pointed out in my separate video. You’ll notice a thumbnail pops up and arrows point at both of them. Those two batteries are found on Amazon… link in description of the following video:
Best Lipo batteries for your RC transmitter - Parallel mode & Best practices - Radiolink RC6GS V3
ruclips.net/video/Z2sY509dfnw/видео.html
@@EastTactics Got it, I just watched. Thank you for the reply and the help.
If it had temperature sensor in it's telemetry system (for Nytro) I would buy it. Not having temperature is a missed opportunity, when they already have link capable to send signal back with telemetry
@@Ketoholic I saw them advertized as I6X Radio/ IA6B Receiver telemetry modules. Are you sure that sensors are compatible with this car radio ant its receivers?
This video is amazing great detail thank you
Glad it was helpful!
❤
Hey bro, is their anyway i can install a reverse light to the receiver and only have it turn on when i brake? Have a max5 combo thanks
How I know if the receiver is defective or the trasmitter because this receiver don't want to bind? Soo I goin to try to put in firt mode to get the green led and is supposed to pair whit the receiver right???
@EastTactics Being that this video is almost 1 year old, would you say this is better than the Spektrum Dx5 rugged? All of my car already have Spektrum receivers and I wouldn't use most of its functions, I really just want to get rid of some transmitters lol I got 12 now! 😅 Mostly dx3s Felony, Kraton, Typhon, Talion, big rock, infraction, Vendetta and a few odd projects but they all have Spektrum receivers.
Functionality and control, slightly better, aesthetics, and feel slightly worse. Range much better… Overall …better yes
But not by much. Both are great
Just update mine there nice controllers
Hi, my traxxas summit uses dual steering servo, how can i set-up the r7fg receiver to act like the old tqi receiver?
My RadioLink malfunctions bypassing failsafe and my Kraton jumped off the 4000 ft canyon. It's still at the bottom I can't reach it. 😂
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I'm Just kidding, I don't even own a Radiolink, lol. Giving you a hard time. Great Tech video as usual.
😳🤣🤣😎
My receiver flashing red, blue and purple..reason because i presst the little buttons because this receiver don't want to bind soo now is flashing 3 color and still doesn't pair whit the transmitter I don't know what I doing wrong?
All 4S batteries won't come with the JST connector because the voltage is higher than that connector is made for. 4S will have an EC3, or an XT60 connector. I bought a set of lithium rechargeable AA batteries that do 1.55v per cell... 9.2 total and it lasts forever.. and obviously they fit perfectly with the included AA tray.
Yeah, that’s perfectly fine, however…if the transmitter is capable of handling, 15.4 V, though why not take advantage of it and see how it impacts range performance. You’re correct the 4s batteries do not come outfitted with JST connectors. So you do have to do a little bit of work to convert but it’s a simple work and totally worth it. This video showcases how to take advantage of 1100 mA of 4s power, run in parallel can be outfitted inside these transmitters. And that rocks!
ruclips.net/video/Z2sY509dfnw/видео.html
Vid.. thanks bro
You bet
Coming from FPV world, I wish there a transmitter that had EdgeTX (OpenTX) so just program and button to do anything including what you would like for disabling the gyro.
Yeah that would be nice. I’m not very familiar with that TX stuff, however it sounds versatile. You do gotta give kudos to Radiolink for at least being light years above most offerings in the land radio arena.
@@EastTactics currently on Radiolink & Flysky seem to do anything with RC car transmitter world. Unlike the big names
You can disable the gyro remotely with Flysky Noble, Futaba, Spectrum, Airtronics and many other radios. You can program all the Aux channels to do what you want. I fly fpv too. I have 9 channels that I program on my crawlers to do all kinds of features from lights, winch, and rock lights. Drag brake, fpv camera, gyro on and off for jumping. So not sure why you would need open TX for RC cars when you already can run as many functions as you want to depending on how many channels your radio has.
@@FarmerFpv Would be nice if radio link incorporated the option. Especially considering the budget price for their ground radio combo.
You Rock!
I have problems with this receiver don't want to bind?
They should have sent out their new Radiolink RC8X radio
I heard that the v3 will bind to certain spectrum receivers, maybe you can verify that with radio link. I just got mine in and if that’s true I’d like to know which receivers it would be.
I’ve never heard that, not saying it isn’t possible. But the simplest thing would be to give the binding a try and see if it links up. From my understanding binding of any kind between a receiver and transmitter is Brand specific.
@@EastTactics I will give it a shot. I love the idea that the r7fg has the gyro and wil not pull power from the car…for that reason I will be ordering more of them for my speed run cars. I will let you know if I’m successful binding my bashers to the stock receiver…🤞thank you for the response
My receiver don't bind I preset the button and now flashing 3 color red,blue and purple and don't want to bind I don't know what I doin wrong?
what battery would i need since the longer range would use more power
Best Lipo batteries for your RC transmitter - Parallel mode & Best practices - Radiolink RC6GS V3
ruclips.net/video/Z2sY509dfnw/видео.html
@@EastTactics I am a complete beginner and I do not understand many things Rc experts talk about there is so much information but i find this video helpful. Could this control work with cheaper small RC cars under 200 and do you need to use different batteries for different things in the car? I see you use fans; do you have to add them? and does one battery power the fans and another one make the actual car run and if I upgrade my car to this controller would I have to use more powerful batteries than the original ones my car comes whith? I am also concerned and a little confused on storing a battery of that power safely. Can the antennas be used during rain and is the setup waterproof?
Great questions, everything regarding RC is typically water resistant. Particularly in the higher model. I can’t say the same about low budget RC under $200. Or RC from Walmart. But everything in the total hobby grade RC Arena is water resistant. Not waterproof. They’re OK to get water on them with the rain, etc. But extensive water could cause issues.
Transmitter receiver combo is just a combo. Meaning you need the receiver and the transmitter to make the RC run. Not being sad if you put the receiver into a lower budget RC then you should be able to control that lower budget RC just fine because it’s the receiver itself that is communicating to the transmitter. And you don’t buy one without the other.
Regarding the batteries that you put inside of the transmitter. This doesn’t matter. Something might be able to be said if you’re going super long range and you are using more powerful batteries in the transmitter. However, it’s debatable. I don’t think that the transmitter range is directly correlated with the power in the batteries. But I could be wrong. Either way, the battery itself is not really what gives this particular combo awesome perks. You’re gonna get way above beyond range no matter what batteries you use in the transmitter. I just like to use the best of the best and it’s capable of running batteries at 4s. Then why not maximize it
The batteries that you use to control the transmitter are completely separate from the rig.
The rig itself will runoff a variety of batteries, depending on what rig your running. in my Kraton uses 6s, Lipo batteries.
If you decide to upgrade your fans, there are options to run those fans on a completely separate battery if you choose. However, there are ways to run the fans off of the main battery balance terminal. The RC car will run off the main big thick terminal. And you can plug your fans into the balance terminal used for balance charging output . Believe it or not that thing outputs power
If you have a rig like mine, a great company to look at is hyper flow fans. He has a kit you can buy to run high-powered fans from your battery (main battery)
For a long time, used to run my fans from a separate 3S battery. I no longer do that. However, believe it or not, I also don’t run my fans from the main battery Either. at least directly …there is plug-in in my ESC that I simply plug my fans into. One could also plug their fans directly into the receiver, which is the little tiny square box that you put in your RC if it has an extra opening for it.
Hope that answers some of your questions
@@EastTactics thank you I still have to research about cameras but that is a whole different thing lol. So, i dont have to add fans if i choose not to and choosing not to add them won't be dangerous right? I have watched adhd rc and i want to be able to do what he does or at least to some level just having fun around the neighborhood burning rubber and interacting whith others virtually.
23:47 Active gyro will turn your wheels into the correct orientation in air, for the landing (think about World Rally). Should help counteract the rotation, not contribute to it.
To your point what you’re saying makes sense. However, most people consider being airborne some thing they need total and complete control over themselves. Trying to counteract the AI might prove difficult. I’ll have to do a little bit of testing to see if the Gyro actually helps or if in fact, it hurts. Will let you know.
@@EastTactics maybe you mean for backflips. If that's the case, I'll bet the gyro DOES fight you on that. OK, let us know and thanks for all the work on that video, I'm going to use it as a reference. Ordering this stuff up (Tx and extra receivers)
I simply drilled an additional hole in the receiver box lid then add another antenna tube
With the length of the antennas, do your antenna tubes go up through the body as well? I decided to avoid going up through the body simply because I don’t want the antennas to get destroyed on a bad wreck
@@EastTactics they are tucked underneath the body for my bashers. I extended through the body shell for my SR cars
@@cacanjacowans540
Gotcha, makes sense
I just finished setting up my recover this same one. But the throttle is reversed when I hit the gas it goes in reverse. How do I fix this?
You can change the Forward and reverse of your motor by either changing the settings in the ESC. Watch my instructional video on the firma 160.
Another way to do it is a simply swap the outside two wires on your motor leads
I kept losing signal to throttle at long range! Steering works fine but throttle does not! Any idea
The fact that you lose throttle only is a huge blessing with this receiver transmitter. With the stock one. At loss of range, your vehicle has a potential ( which is high) to simply takeoff.
You’re losing connection? At what range? Because you are going to lose connection, especially if you are behind large objects, trees, or buildings.
My concern is, there are other speed racers running exact, same set up and they don't have an issue at all, and we are all running on the same road at the same time I would say about a football field link I lose signal and either direction! I put a new receiver on it today. I will see how it goes.
@bashmasterRC
ya let me know
Hey bud quick question I’m having a headache I have a erevo 1/10 dual brushed motors dual servos and I just bought the same remote but I can’t get the car to turn all the way right or left ,I posted a video of the issue maybe you can help having the same remote and thanks.
I really don’t know a whole lot about setting up dual motors or dual service. For sure a remote/receiver combo that’s capable, it would definitely be the RC6Gs.
It sounds to me like there may be a setting when you are running to servos that needs to be adjusted because perhaps the system thinks there’s only one so it’s only giving 50% radius to both. But you need to go in and activate 100% by navigating to each respective channel, connected to the servo and opening up the range. But this is just a guess because again, I’ve never set it up. Sorry I couldn’t be more help.
@@EastTactics thanks man I appreciate it
I need some help. I have the Hobbywing Fusion quickrun SE 1800kv running a 2s lipo 7.4v. My transmitter is RadioLink RC6GS V3. I have paired the remote with the motor but it runs crappy. I think i need to change some settings within the transmitter and i dont know how could you help? Also my reciever is red but the transmitter works i can drive and steer but like i said its crappy so i dont think is bound correctly...
How does it perform when running the stock radio and transmitter? Revert back as a test
@@EastTactics I fixed the issue. It had to do with the transmitter settings particularly the A.B.S. Thank you though!
@ east tactics on my Traxxas summing I have 2 steering cables one goes to ch1 where do I plug my other cable at ?
Out of your ESC, you’ve got a cable that is the out for your on off switch to the ESC, you’ve got your main thick power cables to go to your battery, and you have one wire (which is comprised of three) that will go to your receiver. Typically this will go into the spot marked TH for throttle.
Now your servo will have its own wire again comprised of three. Which will go into your receiver in slot, titled steering.
However, you’re saying that somehow you have two separate wires for steering? Where are these two separate wires coming from, the only wires that you should have dedicated for string should becoming directly from your servo. And there should only be one set of three going into a single JST.
Check the description of this video and at the top you should see a link for the ability to submit a Asq me question, include photos
@@EastTactics thank u, that’s where I’m lost one wire goes to one servo to turn left another servo to turn right and only one location for steering on my new radiolink
You have two servos? Is that what you’re saying?
Because most vehicles only have one servo that’s capable of turning, both left and right.
@@EastTactics yes 2 servos on my Traxxas summit 1/10 scale to steer
@@EastTactics on my tqi it has 2 spots that says ch1 both are for steering on my new radiolink there is only one spot that says ch1 ?
I have some issues what’s the contact info to radiolink?
Who is the best person to contact if I have technical issues with Radiolink transmitters?
Each of our products comes with an instruction manual, and they can contact the email on the manual directly. The email address is after_service@radiolink.com.cn
Hey man have had the radiolink v3 for a few days but noticed when I turn gyro on it wiggles back and forth any feedback would be nice...not sure if I'm doing something wrong as I have the orientation right..
You’re able to adjust the magnitude of the Gyro by turning the dial right? If not, you want to activate that feature. I noticed too when I had the Gyro at 100% it would make the vehicle do that. You’ll never want a Gyro to be at 100%.
@EastTactics yeah I am but even when setting to maybe around a quarter of the vr knob it still wobbles going to go and test again soon once it stops raining..I'll keep you informed thanks for the quick response
Awesome vids btw keep it up!
I’ll be doing a lot of experimenting with the warm season with the Gyro. And to be completely honest with you I don’t have a whole lot of high expectations for me to use it all that much. The receiver is amazing even without the Gyro function. And it’s cool to have at least the ability to play with it. But there’s probably a good chance that I’ll keep it dialed super low if on at all. With more time testing it out there that could change and I might find that I love it. Stay tuned.
@@EastTactics sure will looking forward to it!
It isn't required to run that plug for battery telemetry is it? For the v2 and v3.
I’m not sure what plug you’re talking about. Can you clarify?
@@EastTactics The JST to the xt60 connectors for battery telemetry. I thought I heard someone say you have to run that, but I tested it out earlier for myself and figured out you don't need to.
Also how would you use those 3 position switches to change the throttle percentage? Do you need something plugged into that channel to do so? You brought it up in the video at 17:47. I honestly have no clue how to set that up.
It is not required to run that telemetry dongle. You can choose to leave it out completely. In fact, I do not run it directly to my main battery. I chose to run it to my fan battery. But again I could’ve chose to completely leave it out as well.
Regarding your desire to assign variable functions to your throttle, utilizing one of those switches. You can achieve this without doing anything unique regarding installment. Simply by installing your transmitter/receiver the regular way by plugging your throttle, and steering into auxiliary one and two is all that is needed to achieve This feat.
The set up is as follows, simply go into option 13 called duel rate (D/R). Once there you’ll see a layout of all of your channels, but in the top left, you will see one called SW. More than likely that is set to Null at the moment click enter on that and change it to the switch that you want to incorporate this function. For example, SWB is the switch that is sitting in the 11 o’clock position on your controller. Once you’ve assigned sw to SWB, you’ll notice that if you toggle that switch, it will change on the screen in the top right corner from center, to down, to up, etc. depending on its position. Now from here, simply adjust the TH (throttle) to the number desired depending on the position of the switch. For example, if you want that switch to be down and your throttle to max out at 25%, then change the TH to 25. Then move the switch to the center position and keep it at say 100 for full throttle. Then move the switch to the up position and assign it to say 50% (50).
Now when you leave that setting for the duel rate (setting 13) where the SW (again top left option is that to SWb). And then back out, you will notice that whenever that switch is in those different positions your throttle will follow suit.
Let me know if that makes sense, if not, we can set up a time where perhaps a phone call could be in order and I can help walk you through it
@@EastTactics This explanation is what I needed, I get the procedure. But if I have any trouble getting it to work I'll let you know 👍👍 thanks a bunch.
👍
Hi Sir, i have a HOSIM X07 and i want to install a RADIOLINK V3 but don't know where to get the SERVO 3 WIRE. Should i get the 3wire from the MOTOR going to ESC? Many Thanks
I'm not 100% sure what you're talking about, but I'll take a shot at trying to answer. The wires connecting from the motor to your ESC are completely a separate thing regarding your "receiver/transmitter package" they are much thicker wires and they have a dedicated place to connect into the ESC. The ESC however, does have a three wire that comes out from the ESC with a JST and connector. The jST and connector will connect into your receiver. tthere will also be a three wire that comes from your servo ending in a JST connection also. This will connect into your receiver as well. I hope this answers your question
On my radiolink receiver its not lightning up , i think im missing a SERVO wire. So i don't know if i have to get that 3wire from the motor.
On the RECEIVER we put the STEERING SERVO on CHANNEL 1 right? What do i need to put on CHANNEL 2? THNAKS
@@dpyvett2261 no wires go directly from the motor to the receiver. The only thing that goes to the receiver is wires from the ESC, and wires from the Servo.
you can turn gyro off with a mix
Yes by setting the gyro to that knob, you can adjust it from 0-100% on the fly
Now is flashing green I presst the bind button and still not want to bind ?
Sorry, I’ve been busy working my regular 8 to 5.
Have you confirmed that your jst connectors are plug-into the place and facing the right right direction?
@@EastTactics yeah that was the problem i fix it now is bind but I have steering but throttle don't work 🤦♂️
@@EastTactics now the trasmitter pair the steering working but I don't have throttle 🤦♂️is always something
Sounds like it could be a setting on the transmitter, or perhaps, check your throttle endpoints. There might even be a switch or toggle that is not set correctly.
With this transmitter, you really got to take the time to read the instructions and understand how to adjust things like throttle, dual rate, etc. be sure not to skip around in the video as well and just try to absorb everything you can because I cover a lot of these topics.
I have the RC6GS V2. How do I set up different throttle rates??
Like Arrma Vehicles transmitters. They have 50%,75% and 100%. Lets say the 3 tier switches on that transmitter, how do I set center point to 100% throttle and left and right points to 50% n 75%? Is it possible?
Yes, this is possible.. You’ll do this in the D/R setting area. That stands for Duel rate. You can change the dual rate for the throttle on any one of the switches. So in your case you would probably want it to be assigned to one of the two three tier switches, found at 11 o’clock and 1 o’clock. I assigned mine to the three tier switch in the 11 o’clock position, And on the V3 they’ve set that
Switch to be called SWB. There’s a chance that it might be different on the V2. Anyway once in the D/R setting, the top left quadrant is the one asking you which switch you are going to change. You’ll know you’re on the right one if physically toggling the switch changes the display in the upper right corner of the screen from displaying the words, left, center, right. Anyway adjust the throttle (TH) to a different number for each position. That’s it.
If this doesn’t make sense, you can reach out to me via Facebook and we can connect perhaps even via the phone. I do plan on dropping a video shortly that will explain this, And many many other things regarding deep dive on the settings.
@@EastTactics Appreciate the detailed response. I was thinkin maybe I needed the V3, because I seen some new feature about dual rate added to the V3. Happy to know I dont.
It sounds fairly simple. I will attempt to do it once I get off work later this evening. Im usually good at figuring out things once Im pointed in right direction but if I somehow cant figure it out, will comment here later.
Again, thank you!
Sounds good
Got mine and it's saying RX low power and won't do anything
How are you powering the transmitter? Are you using the classic AA batteries? It sounds to me like they must be way too low on power. Try replacing all of the batteries with brand new batteries. Let me know.
You say about using the switches for fans & lights, it not that straightforward, we cant connect 2 cables to a CH & use the switch, they just stay on. We have to buy a Led on/off electronic reciver switch & use it for Any kind of addon like fans. For buttons to work they need the electronic switch with 3 wires you then plug your 2 wire leds/fans in to it then into a channel.
i think this is stupid, iv just ordered the new dumbrc radio it uses FHSS like radiolink & some of the other dumborc recivers wich are compatible look identical to the radiolink link, hope they work iv loads of radiolink recivers & im sick of the braking the radiolink ariel
I was under the impression that if you assigned a light or a fan etc. to the appropriate position in the receiver. You can then within the settings on the transmitter change it so that it can be activated in on off setting or it could be set up to be activated while holding the button down, etc.
I however, have yet to actually set up a light or a fan on a specific unused channel, but will likely in the near future.
i would live to use the telemetry ,but unfortunately i got everywhere dean t plugs. Bad luck
So as you may know I communicate directly with Radio link. And this is actually a topic we've discussed. I have a private video, that can only be view if you have the link. Its a video I sent to Radiolink to view to help give them suggestions regarding ways to facilitate telemetry to their fan base. It might be useeful for you to watch. hope its helpful
ruclips.net/video/ezVqiM7G_zc/видео.html
I wouldn’t put lipo in my controller, I already have to much lipo responsibility lol
After three uses my throttle trigger does not return to center. Going to have to give this controller a one out of five stars.
Edit: The company is sending me a whole new unit. Told me not to even bother sending back the defective unit.
Sorry to hear the difficulty brother, in my experience, this things been amazing, and I’ve never seen a bad review land yet in all of my videos on the topic over this last year. To me, it sounds like a potential one off issue you’re having which I might suggest simply reaching out to radio link, I’m sure they’d work with you if there is a defect. Another thing to consider …being that this controller is literally programmable in every function is doing a factory reset to get everything re-centered, or specifically looking into your throttle settings, which could be fully adjusted to either counter the issue or remedy it. Also, you might set your throttle endpoints on your ESC, just to be sure, that’s not the issue after installing a new receiver and transmitter
@@EastTactics I would have sent it back to Amazon and exchanged it. I use the power wire from the battery box on a lipo. Emailed radio link and explain the situation. They are sending a whole new unit to me. Told me not to even bother sending back the defective one. That's pretty solid.
4sure!
Those fan covers...... 💦🥵
One of the luxuries of running over powered fans, you can get away with custom covers that may not necessarily be as efficient as others
🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤐