I used to have a vr4 and it never got easier working on the engine bay. Like other people said, there a few mods that will make working on this endurable but not really easy. Evos and eclipses have much more space. You need to replace the timing belt if it hasn’t been done. These cars have tensioners which tends to be problematic. So I wouldn’t run it too hard until you do that. Just some personal tips: I didn’t attempt to do it myself and the mechanic who changed it said he couldn’t do it with the engine inside the car because of clearance issues, so he needed to lift the engine a few inches to make it work. Also, be prepared to change the harmonic balancer because the center piece is made of plastic, making it break easily, specially when you’re prying it off. If you do the timing belt, make sure you take it somewhere that knows what they’re doing. These cars have a certain assembly sequence that makes one tooth of the timing belt jump on first start up 🙈🙈 so basically you need to set it back one notch so it can be where it’s supposed to be. Your stuttering issues might be coming from a “wrongly” installed timing belt. Maybe the person before you installed it where the marks go, and then it jumped as it’s supposed to be and now it’s out of time. That’s what happened to mine anyway. I also had a vacuum leak which I needed to address. So I’d say you should look at those two issues first. Check timing marks and do a smoke test. These cars have so many vacuum lines that it’ll take a bit, but they do depend a lot on vacuum to get the job done. A small leak will make a big difference. I believe the oem gap for spark plugs is bigger than .28, if I remember correctly it was somewhere between.32-.35 but I am not 100% sure, so don’t quote me on that, and unless you’re running big boost, there’s no reason so go to a smaller gap. Again, I wouldn’t trust the previous owner to know what they were doing. Anyway, keep up the good work, and if you need any other guidance, let me know 😎👍👍
Man, thats a load, the timings not that bad- i did it in my garage on jackstands in a saturday. You're right on old tensioners failing though- they're hydraulic- ways around it are to shim it with washers so the tensioner rod cant back out or convert to gates+ solid tensioner
@@jamisonebert2398 probably a long long Saturday 👀 but where there’s will there’s always a way. I gladly paid the $500 to install and kept me from headaches. Almost 80% of cars, I don’t mind doing it myself. This one was part of the other 20% which include but not limited to: land rovers, porches, some mercedes and other headaches.
There's some mods that'll make life easier for you. Like most aftermarket intake manifolds have shorter runner. Which makes it doable to change spark plugs without removing the upper plenum. And it deletes the stay brackets that attach the upper plenum to the block. Which turns removing that manifold from an hour job to like 10 minutes
also the imr intake manifold especially the one i requested since they don't keep those on hand took 8 months for me to get since they had some manufacturing issues with the machine shop that threads the q45 TB flange. And well the u.s has some pretty major supply chain issues so count on it taking a long time to get it.
I just to say thanks for more VR4 content and the valve cover it look better with gold and black letters, I just wanted to say but it look cool in black...and I still love the content congrats bro 👏👍
I understand that trial error process, had to do that with my eclipse for months and months. Best of luck getting it figured out and keep up the great content!
Man keep up with it- may surprise you. If you're looking yo make the engine bay WAY cleaner/easier to mod- protips * IMR motor plate deletes trans mount and bracket and makes engine removal a snap- but it does convert F/R to solid mounts * Battery bracket can be removed and charcoal can removed to lower the battery down to the K frame- if you're REALLY crafty about it- you can mount a battery tray TO the K frame * vac line reduction- theres writeups on 3SI for how to do, with all the lines it adds a LOT of potential for vac leaks, (which could possibly be your miss) * ABS delete- abs is known to get fualty on these and go haywire if hot/old- clears a lot of space/lines in the bay * COP conversion from Rvenge Performance - removes wires/coilpack to further declutter engine bay All the stuff in the engine bay is really just packed on top. Also get a jester/chrome flash ecu if you DONT have + maf translator- hands down the best bang for your buck mod for a stock/bolton build/factory frame turbo car
I just went through this same issue with my VR4 and it ended up being my fuel tank had some gunk in it and it was making it so my fuel pump wasn't able to suck enough fuel. Not sure what fuel pump you have but my Walboro sounded really loud like yours and after i cleaned my tank and replaced the fuel pump filter it quieted down almost to where I couldn't even hear it and that fixed all my issues. Worth pulling your pump out and taking a look at least. Has very similar symptoms to what you're describing.
Yeah the 00 to 05 eclipse with the v6 had two valve covers just like the 3000gt. And yes it's a pain in the ass to work on. Just a simple task as replacing spark plugs and valve cover gasket is a real back breaker especially when it's hot outside. You'll be cussing like a sailor within a few minutes of working on it.
My bet is likely on the maf and or ecu for your issues. Try pulling the maf plug while the car is running to see if you hear a difference in the idle, if you don't that may be your issue. Check the Ecu caps if you haven't already to see if they are leaking yet because it will happen at some point in time. Boost leaks are common on the throttle body if not tightened to specs. Also the stock y pipe could be cracked but in your case it will no longer be an issue with the new piping.
Man the struggle continues! I'm excited for the front mount! But maybe my grounding kit can solve this gremlin? I will shoot you a message on Facebook!
Check your ignition coils and wires. I didn’t have that issue with my stealth but I had it with a turbo Chevy sonic. It was doing the same thing your car is doing. I thought it was a vacuum issue also. I pressure tested the whole engine. I found some seals that were bad but the issue in the end was the ignition coil. I changed that and it stopped bogging under acceleration and has been running smooth. It was very frustrating
they do love to make us work when they are giving us trouble but sure you will find what's causing it hopefully replacing intercooler and piping cures the stutter for you.
One more thing to check Miguel is the ECU capacitors. I notice it takes awhile for you to start the car. I had that same problem with mine so I pulled my ECU and opened it up. My capacitors were just starting to leak. I had the caps replaced and the car ran perfect after that. The ECU is pretty easy to access it is behind the center console. Just need to remove those 2 carpet panels.
AGREE! I have a 2nd Gen eclipse and it was stuttering bad and was hard to start most times and turned out my ecu was fried due to a short. Mine was injector number 4 on the ecu was burnt out and as soon as I replaced it , it was super peppy and had full power. And then due to the bad bottom end I blew it up 😅so now currently rebuilding the bottom end.
Hey Miguel, is the stutter you're getting, feel like the ignition is breaking up? If so, first check the spark plugs for fouling, plug wires for wear. Since you did the pump and injectors, I'd recommend its probably you MAF sensor. If youre having a boost leak, it explains why you maybe having a stutter because the MAF is either telling the computer to pull or add fuel. Address the boost leak and MAF. Im sure its one of those issues for sure!
Se que talves esto no ayude, pero has echo un Compression test en los cylindros? Tambien revisa fusibles O Relay, Muchas veces lo mas facil de revisar lo dejamos para el final.
Oem wires are black not blue. Also I'm pretty sure oem plugs are iridium not copper. I know the dsm guys curse the iridium plugs up and down and swear that copper is the only way but the 3/S community is the opposite saying copper plugs never work. I never questioned it and use copper plugs on my DSMs and iridium plugs on my 3/S.
Need to boost leak test man. That and a fresh tune up will most likely resolve your issues. Guarantee you have multiple boost leaks and the sputtering could be a clogged fuel filter.
Stock injectors are 360cc. Is anything about the fuel system aftermarket like the fuel pump or even a fuel pump rewire kit? These cars from the factory have a relay that runs a lower voltage to the fuel pump below a certain rpm. In stock form what happens is the fuel pump can't keep up with the injectors at this lower voltage so the idc is increased to compensate. A fuel pump rewire or aftermarket pump negates this so in the "transition" area where the ecu is "switching" between low voltage and high voltage it's effectively expecting the injector size to change but it doesn't because you've fixed the issue of the pump falling off. Tldr, look into getting a chrome ecu.
try a new or at least known working mass airflow sensor, it has to be the same 3 digit number maf as the one on the car. my 3000 just had the same issue of breaking up around 2500 rpm and a new maf solved the issue.
You know when you paint valve covers and the letters come out painted , instead of sanding it down to get the letters silver , I use chapstick and put it over the letters and paint it and wipe off the chap stick when done lol
Keep trouble shooting man you will find the issue. Only thing that comes to mind to check is the sparkplug wires and ensure the alternator is the correct one for your car and it's putting out correct voltage
@@MiguelDsm that happed to my vr4 Galant when I first got it and it had an incorrect alternator. Previous owner cut corners glad you got it all figured out keep killing man your content is awesome
If the boost leak test doesn't fix it, I had an alternator going out on my dsm and it would break the car up. It felt like a boost leak, but after I got a new alternator, the problem went away and it fixed it.
This has a 6g72 right I've got a 03 dodge stratus rt 3.0 I'm just trying to make it a little faster and can't find nothing for it online any suggestions?
@@MiguelDsm Could be I remember when i got my dsm I thought I had a boost leak because the cars rpms felt jumpy and it turned out to be the dirty fuel pump
Yo Miguel pregunta bro after installing the turbo kit on my eclipse do I need to buy a new ECU or can I tune it with the stoke ECU thanks and love u videos bro keep up the good work
![[4K] Watch SpaceX Catch A Starship Rocket From Space!!! #IFT5](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pIKI7y3DTXk/mqdefault.jpg)
I used to have a vr4 and it never got easier working on the engine bay. Like other people said, there a few mods that will make working on this endurable but not really easy. Evos and eclipses have much more space.
You need to replace the timing belt if it hasn’t been done. These cars have tensioners which tends to be problematic. So I wouldn’t run it too hard until you do that.
Just some personal tips:
I didn’t attempt to do it myself and the mechanic who changed it said he couldn’t do it with the engine inside the car because of clearance issues, so he needed to lift the engine a few inches to make it work. Also, be prepared to change the harmonic balancer because the center piece is made of plastic, making it break easily, specially when you’re prying it off.
If you do the timing belt, make sure you take it somewhere that knows what they’re doing. These cars have a certain assembly sequence that makes one tooth of the timing belt jump on first start up 🙈🙈 so basically you need to set it back one notch so it can be where it’s supposed to be.
Your stuttering issues might be coming from a “wrongly” installed timing belt. Maybe the person before you installed it where the marks go, and then it jumped as it’s supposed to be and now it’s out of time. That’s what happened to mine anyway.
I also had a vacuum leak which I needed to address. So I’d say you should look at those two issues first. Check timing marks and do a smoke test. These cars have so many vacuum lines that it’ll take a bit, but they do depend a lot on vacuum to get the job done. A small leak will make a big difference.
I believe the oem gap for spark plugs is bigger than .28, if I remember correctly it was somewhere between.32-.35 but I am not 100% sure, so don’t quote me on that, and unless you’re running big boost, there’s no reason so go to a smaller gap. Again, I wouldn’t trust the previous owner to know what they were doing. Anyway, keep up the good work, and if you need any other guidance, let me know 😎👍👍
Man, thats a load, the timings not that bad- i did it in my garage on jackstands in a saturday. You're right on old tensioners failing though- they're hydraulic- ways around it are to shim it with washers so the tensioner rod cant back out or convert to gates+ solid tensioner
Appreciate the tips! I’ll look over the timing
@@jamisonebert2398 probably a long long Saturday 👀 but where there’s will there’s always a way.
I gladly paid the $500 to install and kept me from headaches. Almost 80% of cars, I don’t mind doing it myself. This one was part of the other 20% which include but not limited to: land rovers, porches, some mercedes and other headaches.
"This has been, by far, the hardest car I have to work on"
The turbo eclipse that went threw several blown motors: am I a joke to u?
Gotta show the Flagship more love beautiful machine keep the vids coming. BTS TUNED is who you wanna get with am tellin ya
Alan doesn’t mess around with 3kgt he’s a goat 🐐
Got it figured out! Stay tuned 🤙🏼
There's some mods that'll make life easier for you. Like most aftermarket intake manifolds have shorter runner. Which makes it doable to change spark plugs without removing the upper plenum. And it deletes the stay brackets that attach the upper plenum to the block. Which turns removing that manifold from an hour job to like 10 minutes
Can you link me to some? I’ve never seen any
also the imr intake manifold especially the one i requested since they don't keep those on hand took 8 months for me to get since they had some manufacturing issues with the machine shop that threads the q45 TB flange. And well the u.s has some pretty major supply chain issues so count on it taking a long time to get it.
@@MiguelDsm Sadly there isn't any for 3000GT's
I just to say thanks for more VR4 content and the valve cover it look better with gold and black letters, I just wanted to say but it look cool in black...and I still love the content congrats bro 👏👍
Thanks Anthony!
Danm bro i’m the opposite of you i had my gsx full bolt on before i replaced my oil pan gasket 😂.. Love 3k gt content!! 🫡
Lmaoo maintenance first bro!
I understand that trial error process, had to do that with my eclipse for months and months. Best of luck getting it figured out and keep up the great content!
Man keep up with it- may surprise you.
If you're looking yo make the engine bay WAY cleaner/easier to mod- protips
* IMR motor plate deletes trans mount and bracket and makes engine removal a snap- but it does convert F/R to solid mounts
* Battery bracket can be removed and charcoal can removed to lower the battery down to the K frame- if you're REALLY crafty about it- you can mount a battery tray TO the K frame
* vac line reduction- theres writeups on 3SI for how to do, with all the lines it adds a LOT of potential for vac leaks, (which could possibly be your miss)
* ABS delete- abs is known to get fualty on these and go haywire if hot/old- clears a lot of space/lines in the bay
* COP conversion from Rvenge Performance - removes wires/coilpack to further declutter engine bay
All the stuff in the engine bay is really just packed on top.
Also get a jester/chrome flash ecu if you DONT have + maf translator- hands down the best bang for your buck mod for a stock/bolton build/factory frame turbo car
I just went through this same issue with my VR4 and it ended up being my fuel tank had some gunk in it and it was making it so my fuel pump wasn't able to suck enough fuel. Not sure what fuel pump you have but my Walboro sounded really loud like yours and after i cleaned my tank and replaced the fuel pump filter it quieted down almost to where I couldn't even hear it and that fixed all my issues. Worth pulling your pump out and taking a look at least. Has very similar symptoms to what you're describing.
Thanks for the insight. This car was sitting since 2012 up until last year. I’ll take a look
@@MiguelDsm mine had been sitting a long time as well, hope thats your issue as its a pretty easy fix!
Hopefully you get the car straightened out. I can't wait to hear the new sounds from the exhaust.
Awesome video man! I know my evo is super picky about the spark plugs and gap I use. Keep working hard man it's cool to see the progress your making.
Slowly but surely man. It’ll come toghether soon
Yeah the 00 to 05 eclipse with the v6 had two valve covers just like the 3000gt. And yes it's a pain in the ass to work on. Just a simple task as replacing spark plugs and valve cover gasket is a real back breaker especially when it's hot outside. You'll be cussing like a sailor within a few minutes of working on it.
That was me a couple times 😂
My bet is likely on the maf and or ecu for your issues. Try pulling the maf plug while the car is running to see if you hear a difference in the idle, if you don't that may be your issue. Check the Ecu caps if you haven't already to see if they are leaking yet because it will happen at some point in time. Boost leaks are common on the throttle body if not tightened to specs. Also the stock y pipe could be cracked but in your case it will no longer be an issue with the new piping.
Not going to lie I’m going through the same with my car the fight is real. But great video bro and keep pushing. That’s why we love our cars. 🔧🔧🔧🤣🤣
Gotta keep it moving man
Another awesome video :D
Aunque no entiendo inglés me gusta ver tus videos jaja muy buenos autos bro♥️
Muchas gracias por el apoyo bro. También está el canal de español
Check the ecu caps they leak and cause the stutter issue. There’s a good write up on the 3swiki, as well as checking for boost leaks
Man the struggle continues! I'm excited for the front mount! But maybe my grounding kit can solve this gremlin? I will shoot you a message on Facebook!
Hey Miguel, send the VC to powder coating and the intake. Also u can replace the battery to a smaller one. Engine bay will look better and cleaner.
I would have checked ignition timing by now if you haven’t. It has an adjustable CAS so a quick check with a timing light will do the trick.
Check your ignition coils and wires. I didn’t have that issue with my stealth but I had it with a turbo Chevy sonic. It was doing the same thing your car is doing. I thought it was a vacuum issue also. I pressure tested the whole engine. I found some seals that were bad but the issue in the end was the ignition coil. I changed that and it stopped bogging under acceleration and has been running smooth. It was very frustrating
The life of a Mitsubishi owner. You’ll get it worked out eventually dude 👍🏼
they do love to make us work when they are giving us trouble but sure you will find what's causing it hopefully replacing intercooler and piping cures the stutter for you.
Never thought that a muffin pan for holding your nuts and bolts would be such a great idea!
One more thing to check Miguel is the ECU capacitors. I notice it takes awhile for you to start the car. I had that same problem with mine so I pulled my ECU and opened it up. My capacitors were just starting to leak. I had the caps replaced and the car ran perfect after that. The ECU is pretty easy to access it is behind the center console. Just need to remove those 2 carpet panels.
AGREE! I have a 2nd Gen eclipse and it was stuttering bad and was hard to start most times and turned out my ecu was fried due to a short. Mine was injector number 4 on the ecu was burnt out and as soon as I replaced it , it was super peppy and had full power. And then due to the bad bottom end I blew it up 😅so now currently rebuilding the bottom end.
These cars are known for leaky capacitors. 12 cents worth of capacitors disabled my whole car
Where did you have it repaired?
@@MiguelDsm foreignecurepair in Texas. Boobtube won't let me post the link.
@@MiguelDsm I sent it to you on Facebook.
Hey Miguel, is the stutter you're getting, feel like the ignition is breaking up? If so, first check the spark plugs for fouling, plug wires for wear. Since you did the pump and injectors, I'd recommend its probably you MAF sensor. If youre having a boost leak, it explains why you maybe having a stutter because the MAF is either telling the computer to pull or add fuel. Address the boost leak and MAF. Im sure its one of those issues for sure!
Se que talves esto no ayude, pero has echo un Compression test en los cylindros? Tambien revisa fusibles O Relay, Muchas veces lo mas facil de revisar lo dejamos para el final.
No e visto eso. Pero ya descubrí que fue el problema. Es el sensor de 02
@@MiguelDsm ohh, nice! Ansioso por ver el proximo video!!
I also have a camry and a 3000gt😂damn bro u got good taste
Those spark plug wires look like the og ones from the factory lol.
Right 😅😂
Oem wires are black not blue. Also I'm pretty sure oem plugs are iridium not copper. I know the dsm guys curse the iridium plugs up and down and swear that copper is the only way but the 3/S community is the opposite saying copper plugs never work. I never questioned it and use copper plugs on my DSMs and iridium plugs on my 3/S.
Need to boost leak test man. That and a fresh tune up will most likely resolve your issues. Guarantee you have multiple boost leaks and the sputtering could be a clogged fuel filter.
nice vid bro
Thanks buddy
Man, the engine bay of the VR4 looks so intimidating, so much stuff cramped in there. lol
I hate it 😅😂
I like how an evo 8/9 is like one of the easiest cars to work on. But mutsubishi also made this, the hardest car to work on
It’s all about balance.. lol
Stock injectors are 360cc. Is anything about the fuel system aftermarket like the fuel pump or even a fuel pump rewire kit? These cars from the factory have a relay that runs a lower voltage to the fuel pump below a certain rpm. In stock form what happens is the fuel pump can't keep up with the injectors at this lower voltage so the idc is increased to compensate. A fuel pump rewire or aftermarket pump negates this so in the "transition" area where the ecu is "switching" between low voltage and high voltage it's effectively expecting the injector size to change but it doesn't because you've fixed the issue of the pump falling off. Tldr, look into getting a chrome ecu.
try a new or at least known working mass airflow sensor, it has to be the same 3 digit number maf as the one on the car. my 3000 just had the same issue of breaking up around 2500 rpm and a new maf solved the issue.
Ended up finding out it has a faulty 02 sensor
You know when you paint valve covers and the letters come out painted , instead of sanding it down to get the letters silver , I use chapstick and put it over the letters and paint it and wipe off the chap stick when done lol
I’ve seen that tactic but I find it easier to use a sanding block personally
😎👍
Saludos bro 😎
Keep trouble shooting man you will find the issue. Only thing that comes to mind to check is the sparkplug wires and ensure the alternator is the correct one for your car and it's putting out correct voltage
Ended up finding out it has a faulty 02 sensor. Bank 2 sensor 1
@@MiguelDsm that happed to my vr4 Galant when I first got it and it had an incorrect alternator. Previous owner cut corners glad you got it all figured out keep killing man your content is awesome
👍🏾✌🏾
Damnn just gotta keep fixing it little by little 😭
It’ll eventually work itself out
Car is looking sexy man. Omg I want a vr4
Thank you!
Have you ever figured out what’s making the bussing noise?
Have you done a compression test....sounds like a weak cylinder. Just rent tester and remove all plugs and get it done.
If the boost leak test doesn't fix it, I had an alternator going out on my dsm and it would break the car up. It felt like a boost leak, but after I got a new alternator, the problem went away and it fixed it.
The area that you’re in looks dry af, you in az?
🔥💯
This has a 6g72 right I've got a 03 dodge stratus rt 3.0 I'm just trying to make it a little faster and can't find nothing for it online any suggestions?
is that the original rear spoiler?
Check the throttle. i think the throttle or the sensor is bad
hey miguel its 100% your intake manifold gasket that's making that noise
Already been replaced man
Could it be that your airflow meter needs to be cleaned?
You mean the maf? I cleaned that out already
Do you have a wideband in the car?
Got one coming in soon
Imagine daily videos
I need an editor 😅
I would love a 3000GT but thet just look like a pain to work on
🔥🙏🏻
Stock injectors are 360cc not 420cc. Maybe you have larger injectors.
I dont think the VR4 is worse then what you been through with the DSM lol
Fuel pump?boost leak??
Both?
@@MiguelDsm Could be I remember when i got my dsm I thought I had a boost leak because the cars rpms felt jumpy and it turned out to be the dirty fuel pump
If your car is stuttering it almost for sure has a vacuum leak
Check your timing, make sure it's not off.. even 1 tooth can cause the issues you are describing...
Hmm.. good to know
Remplace the noisy fuel pump please 🥺
Hope you figure out the issue. Maybe Al aka BTS can help.
Ended up finding out it has a faulty 02
🌹🌹🔥🔥👍👍
1st
👋🏼
Wear glasses next time using that nasty stuff.
Yo Miguel pregunta bro after installing the turbo kit on my eclipse do I need to buy a new ECU or can I tune it with the stoke ECU thanks and love u videos bro keep up the good work
3g_boat here