Points and condenser is the way to go. Simple, cheap, reliable and easy to replace. Spare set and condenser just in case, normally it's the condenser that fails and that is rare. We have all been conned with electronic systems if that fails, that is it, you can do nothing.
I don't have a car with points and condenser, but I do have 2 older Harley Davidsons that utilize them. I found this video very encouraging. Thanks for posting.
Great video and as you say pure & simple theirs very little to go wrong that’s exactly how my farther in law showed me how to set the points gap 20 years ago
What is the scenario that causes the condenser to shock the shit out of you? I've heard about it all my life but never had to work on anything with points so I thought I'd ask.
That's a fantastic vidio!! Im 26 years young and I landed myself with a asutin heley sprite mk1 My car wasn't firing so after some research and Facebook everyone said its the points. This vidio was the best one I found and I followed step by step and my car is running again!! Best vidio ever!! New sub from me!!
Nice informative video, just a word of warning, vaseline does melt when it gets warm and tends to get between the contact points and cause a breakdown (personal experience)
Thank you so much, I am truly getting fed up with ripped by modern electronics in cars, cost me £300+ to change coil pack and spark plugs an my little Jag X type, would love to buy my old Granada Scorpio and again or my old Triumph 2000. thanks for reminding us how simple points are that's all we need 😊😎💖
I inherited my late father’s 1970 F250. I’ve never worked with points and condenser. And I’m sure it needs new points. But in dead scared to mess with them.
@@FastRust hi. I have the 1985 2.0 laser automatic and a manual one. I'm new to all the classic car mechanics first time used a timming gun after watching your video but im not having any luck as once I set the timing to 8 btdc and then speed goes up on engine and if I unscrew the mixture on carb the rev come down but then after 3 mins pr so the engine cuts out and hesitates to start again. So I'm abit confused would love to fix these problems as I want to keep the 2capris I have.
Nice one. Look after em! You need to adjust the idle speed screw on the carb to bring down the idle. The mixture screw is a different adjustment entirely.
@@FastRust another day I spent on the auto capri 2.0 laser got it stable on idle running at 900rpm but the problem now is that soon as I put it in drive it stalls splatters k locking sound aswell then all of a sudden sounds good again but bad again. On idle its sweet?? Would I be able to speak to you please really want to fix the capri would you allow that.
@@FastRust Im well ticked off, just rebuilt my twin 40s, all ready to put them on..... and trapped a nerve in my neck / shoulder changing a mates wheel. Cant even pick the carbs up let alone drive! Just got to hobble around taking pain killers and having osteopathy and waiting for it to clear. So annoying!
Hi Fast Rust, I SHOULD HAVE TAKEN Your advice on this. Kicking myself :( I did get my 72 2.0 Pinto running great again, then decided to upgrade to Pertronix kit, here's a story I type up to share, A few are saying my ground might not be to good, I'll report back. Here's my story of my outing on 9 12 2020 - I just installed a pertronic on my 72 2.0 Pinto with the Flame thrower coil as a kit I got it from ebay $128 . I reset the timing, drove it and it kicks ass, 80 miles later it starts backfiring and powering down on my way to the swap meet, tac jumps to zero then back up to normal. I pull over and car idles fine. but as i get in the gas it's having trouble picking up to speed while I'm letting the clutch out, I feather it, it gets going then bogs and backfires LOUD AS HELL, lol. at least 20-30 times while I'm getting her home about 5 miles away. I switch out the coil, still the same boggong. then I start checking coil wire, alternator wires and a few other connections, Now it's seems ok, I wish I knew what cause this for future outings.
I hear this kind of issue time and time again with the electronic ignition kits, which considering how much more expensive they are than points, you'd expects 10s of 1000s of trouble free miles from them. As I put in a previous comment, bung points back in to eliminate the Pertronix. I suspect the issue lies with this.
Yeah, I think I'll go ahead and fit my electronic ignition. "Points are awesome, just some simple routine maintenance.. So replace your points, or file them down, oh, check your gap, then check your timing.. run you car for a couple of hundred klms, oh, and re-check your gap.. and do it all again when your car starts running rough...and keep a spare set in the car just in case!" I've run points for years, and on a MK1 Escort, the dizzy is in a terrible place for access... I'll be glad to see the points and the condenser gone... 😉👍
See when you put it like that 🤣 Maybe I'm just stubborn. Do agree though, if access was not as easy as on the Pinto I might look into electronic.. maybe.
my Distributor condenser is ok but my coil condenser is not ok. i bypassed coil condenser and my car is starting easily. do i need to install new condenser of coil?
What do you do when you have such an odd engine they do not produce the condensers anymore? It's a 1971 Chrysler 45hp, model 45chc. Condenser model # is Niehoff se-372. There is only 1 new old stock online that's probably 45 years old.
This is my first time messing with points. it's a 49 pontiac new condenser. new points has a much stronger blue spark at the points since I changed the condenser yesterday. now I think I messed up the original 6 volt coil or I need to accurately check the gap
I'd get the points set correctly to begin with and go from there. The spark at the points doesn't want to be too strong. Blue is normally fine, if it's yellow then it's a good sign the condenser has failed and it'll burn the points out if left for any length of time. Have you checked the ignition timing since replacing these parts?
@@FastRust I've checked it as much as I can without the engine running but all this could be for neigh if the dwell isn't right in a 1949 heard that's important for the coil to recharge which is what I think is happening I'm getting a weak spark at the plugs but a good one at points and wire coming out of coil
@@FastRust Used to run a 45 MM on a 1977 Shovelhead. Had a plethora of jets, emulsion tubes, venturi change outs, you name it. Had to re tune everytime the weather changed. I loved it!
I know exactly what you mean! Just the same with mine. Weather changes - need a tune. If you don't start up in a while - need a tune. For seemingly no reason at all - need a tune. DCOE life!
Check out my latest video on how to tune the mechanical advance curve in this distributor:
ruclips.net/video/gkMLNRARGUE/видео.html
Points and condenser is the way to go. Simple, cheap, reliable and easy to replace. Spare set and condenser just in case, normally it's the condenser that fails and that is rare. We have all been conned with electronic systems if that fails, that is it, you can do nothing.
Agree. Took Capri to the dyno the other day, the tuner took the piss when he saw it was still on points. Still made 175hp!
I don't have a car with points and condenser, but I do have 2 older Harley Davidsons that utilize them. I found this video very encouraging. Thanks for posting.
Great video I like the way you explain very simple and to the point and you show excellent pictures of the part your working on.
Great video and as you say pure & simple theirs very little to go wrong that’s exactly how my farther in law showed me how to set the points gap 20 years ago
Simplicity for me is the way forward. Good on ya father in law!
What is the scenario that causes the condenser to shock the shit out of you? I've heard about it all my life but never had to work on anything with points so I thought I'd ask.
That's a fantastic vidio!! Im 26 years young and I landed myself with a asutin heley sprite mk1
My car wasn't firing so after some research and Facebook everyone said its the points. This vidio was the best one I found and I followed step by step and my car is running again!! Best vidio ever!! New sub from me!!
I really enjoy a good straightforward answer to a simple question.
Excellent. Clear and well produced.
Just found your videos. They’re really informative and super easy to understand 👍
Subscribed!!
Thanks Dan. Cheers for the sub and glad you are enjoying the vids.
So I need a new condenser, thanks mate.!
Excellent video, very easy to follow and informative. Thank you!
Thanks!
Very helpful applying the same principles to my 56’ ford anglia and it’s distributor!
Awesome. Always good to hear when a video helps out a fellow classic ford owner 👍
Nice informative video, just a word of warning, vaseline does melt when it gets warm and tends to get between the contact points and cause a breakdown (personal experience)
Thank you so much, I am truly getting fed up with ripped by modern electronics in cars, cost me £300+ to change coil pack and spark plugs an my little Jag X type, would love to buy my old Granada Scorpio and again or my old Triumph 2000. thanks for reminding us how simple points are that's all we need 😊😎💖
Old tech, you've got to love it haven't you. Get's the job done with minimal fuss! I'd love to see modern cars last 40+ years.
I inherited my late father’s 1970 F250. I’ve never worked with points and condenser. And I’m sure it needs new points. But in dead scared to mess with them.
Thanks ! This video helped me out. God bless
Great man. Nicely explained and filmed. Subscribed!
Thankyou! Appreciate it 👍
Very helpful and well explained I have ended up with 2 capris which I need to time up and have ready for summer.
Cheers. Always good to help a fellow Capri owner! What models have you got?
@@FastRust hi. I have the 1985 2.0 laser automatic and a manual one. I'm new to all the classic car mechanics first time used a timming gun after watching your video but im not having any luck as once I set the timing to 8 btdc and then speed goes up on engine and if I unscrew the mixture on carb the rev come down but then after 3 mins pr so the engine cuts out and hesitates to start again. So I'm abit confused would love to fix these problems as I want to keep the 2capris I have.
Nice one. Look after em! You need to adjust the idle speed screw on the carb to bring down the idle. The mixture screw is a different adjustment entirely.
@@FastRust another day I spent on the auto capri 2.0 laser got it stable on idle running at 900rpm but the problem now is that soon as I put it in drive it stalls splatters k locking sound aswell then all of a sudden sounds good again but bad again. On idle its sweet?? Would I be able to speak to you please really want to fix the capri would you allow that.
If you want to get in touch outside of youtube fire an email to teamfastrust@gmail.com 👍
thank you man.. God bless you
Great video man. Thanks!
👍🏻
great video! i still have points on my 1.1 Escort mk3 and drive about 8k a year in it. always fine.
Yep. Nothing wrong with points!
plugs fire as points open so when setting gap alittle loose is better that alittle tight
Jolly good old bean!
Cheers mate 👍
@@FastRust Im well ticked off, just rebuilt my twin 40s, all ready to put them on..... and trapped a nerve in my neck / shoulder changing a mates wheel. Cant even pick the carbs up let alone drive! Just got to hobble around taking pain killers and having osteopathy and waiting for it to clear. So annoying!
Bloodyhell lad. In the wars. We must be getting old.. hope you feel better soon mate.
This is great
Excellent vid instant subscribe, hey you mentioned having spare points incase they fail, how do you know if it's the points that have failed ? cheers
Thanks a lot, glad you enjoyed it. Bad points will cause misfires and temporary/permanent loss of ignition.
love your car, had 2 years ago
Thanks Jay. Proper classic the Capri!
Hi Fast Rust, I SHOULD HAVE TAKEN Your advice on this. Kicking myself :( I did get my 72 2.0 Pinto running great again, then decided to upgrade to Pertronix kit, here's a story I type up to share, A few are saying my ground might not be to good, I'll report back. Here's my story of my outing on 9 12 2020 - I just installed a pertronic on my 72 2.0 Pinto with the Flame thrower coil as a kit I got it from ebay $128 . I reset the timing, drove it and it kicks ass, 80 miles later it starts backfiring and powering down on my way to the swap meet, tac jumps to zero then back up to normal. I pull over and car idles fine. but as i get in the gas it's having trouble picking up to speed while I'm letting the clutch out, I feather it, it gets going then bogs and backfires LOUD AS HELL, lol. at least 20-30 times while I'm getting her home about 5 miles away. I switch out the coil, still the same boggong. then I start checking coil wire, alternator wires and a few other connections, Now it's seems ok, I wish I knew what cause this for future outings.
I hear this kind of issue time and time again with the electronic ignition kits, which considering how much more expensive they are than points, you'd expects 10s of 1000s of trouble free miles from them. As I put in a previous comment, bung points back in to eliminate the Pertronix. I suspect the issue lies with this.
thanx great video
Yeah, I think I'll go ahead and fit my electronic ignition. "Points are awesome, just some simple routine maintenance.. So replace your points, or file them down, oh, check your gap, then check your timing.. run you car for a couple of hundred klms, oh, and re-check your gap.. and do it all again when your car starts running rough...and keep a spare set in the car just in case!" I've run points for years, and on a MK1 Escort, the dizzy is in a terrible place for access... I'll be glad to see the points and the condenser gone... 😉👍
See when you put it like that 🤣 Maybe I'm just stubborn. Do agree though, if access was not as easy as on the Pinto I might look into electronic.. maybe.
my Distributor condenser is ok but my coil condenser is not ok. i bypassed coil condenser and my car is starting easily. do i need to install new condenser of coil?
What do you do when you have such an odd engine they do not produce the condensers anymore? It's a 1971 Chrysler 45hp, model 45chc. Condenser model # is Niehoff se-372. There is only 1 new old stock online that's probably 45 years old.
Convert to an aftermarket electronic ignition kit?
Have points on my 1975 Toyota Hiace Camper!
Im suscribed.
Quality mate 👍
Cheers mate. Are you still on points?
@@FastRust
No mate, I did on the mk2 before this one tho 👍
Never knew you had 2!
Quit hogging them 🤣
@@FastRust
This is my 3rd one mate
My bmw m10 wont pick up plizz cud it b that i shud change my condenser n that gap thing u wer talking about
Could be down to all sorts. Start with the cheapest stuff first.
Thanks for the video ....
What s the points gap spec?
0.4mm
Outstanding tips Ford points,if You have more with Ford ,6 cyl or Mustang,please share points gap ,& dwell angel.thanks ,suscribe Joe.
So a bad condenser can cause a no start misfire I'm gonna be so mad if that's all I need to replace
It can certainly be a culprit. Are you having to replace the points regularly?
This is my first time messing with points. it's a 49 pontiac new condenser. new points has a much stronger blue spark at the points since I changed the condenser yesterday. now I think I messed up the original 6 volt coil or I need to accurately check the gap
I'd get the points set correctly to begin with and go from there. The spark at the points doesn't want to be too strong. Blue is normally fine, if it's yellow then it's a good sign the condenser has failed and it'll burn the points out if left for any length of time. Have you checked the ignition timing since replacing these parts?
@@FastRust I've checked it as much as I can without the engine running but all this could be for neigh if the dwell isn't right in a 1949 heard that's important for the coil to recharge which is what I think is happening I'm getting a weak spark at the plugs but a good one at points and wire coming out of coil
Wow more than machanics
Can I have the Webers?
LOL
Ha. Sorry no.
@@FastRust Used to run a 45 MM on a 1977 Shovelhead. Had a plethora of jets, emulsion tubes, venturi change outs, you name it. Had to re tune everytime the weather changed. I loved it!
I know exactly what you mean! Just the same with mine. Weather changes - need a tune. If you don't start up in a while - need a tune. For seemingly no reason at all - need a tune. DCOE life!
@@FastRust Take care & Be safe!