Saw you using one of the stretcher bar frames on one of you newer videos and wanted more info on using them. Thanks for making a video to show how they work. Now I will be on the hunt for them. I'm hoping regular thumb tacks will work with them because I really don't want to pay for shipping to the states for for the pins. Thank you for all your really informative videos.
Thank you! I am starting on a new project that recommended using stretcher bar frame which I've had no experience using. I am not surprised I could count on you for a wonderful tutorial!
I've seen these bar frames & wondered how to best use them. Now I know, I prefer a frame over a hoop but struggle with the size constraints. Thanks to you I can now customise my frames to suit me.
These are by far the easiest types of frames to find in the US (aside from embroidery hoops). All the big craft stores sell them. Whereas slate frames are special-order items that even most needlework shops don't carry. These basic stretcher bars are what I've used for nearly all of my crewel and canvas work projects. I've used them for projects as big as 16"×20".There are fancier ones with screws that allow you to tighten them more even after the fabric is tacked in place, but those are expensive and I haven't tried them. The simple cheap ones work well enough for me.
Thank you for such a clear explanation. I got all my embroidery kit out of the loft this week and found a set of these frames, but couldn't remember why I'd bought them or what to do with them! I haven’t done any needlework in many years so I feel very rusty, but I’ve subscribed to your channel and will follow some of your beginner videos. Happy New Year Sarah. :)
I was hoping someone from the UK could help me identify what pelmet interfacing is. I know what a pelmet is but not what this specific type of interfacing is. I was thinking something firm but padded?? No one seems to have a clue at the fabric store. I'm gathering materials to try some projects from the Jane Austin Embroidery book and several projects ask for this interfacing to be used. Thank you, Sue H.
Thank you for all your videos. I learned so much from you. A QQ. Why do you use back fabric before the embroidery is done. Will that much thickness not make work difficult? I was wondering if it can be put in place once the work is done?
Backing fabrics (typically just a simple muslin/calico) are important to help stabilize lighter-weight fabric when using heavier threads. I've always used muslin behind silk dupioni, for example, but I've never bothered when using a heavier fabric like linen twill or cotton duck. Beyond stabilizing lighter fabrics it's also useful in goldwork when you need to secure plunged metal threads on the back.
Tim says it all (see above)! I like a firmer ground to work on, it makes embroidering easier and finishing off look much neater (you can hide the ends inbetween the layers!). I don't use backing on counted fabrics (you would see it through the holes!) or heavy linen twill (the diagonal weave of a twill makes it twist in a different way to cottons and it is already heavy enough).
Are the pins you use just drawing pins ir different. I am using drawing pins but some go in sligtly wonky? The aida also seems to have loosened in frame slightly, but it was tightly put on.
Ring frames tend to be more popular in the UK Josh; the bar frames suit canvas because it's so stiff, but canvas embroidery isn't very popular here compared to the States! I first came across them when I taught there and now I love them!
Thanks for this video. I have not known bar frames. But I would like to ask you which frame do you use if you have a bigger picture with different parts you want to stitch. Do you use the ring frames for each part or do you frame the whole picture in a big frame? Could it be a problem to the fabric if only a part of the piece is in the hoop (e.g. different tension). Thanks for your channel, I have already learned a lot from you! It is great that you share your knowledge with us! Have a blessed Sunday!
Hello, I've just stumbled across your site. Since you seem quite knowledgeable , I have a cross stitch I have completed , probably 25 years ago, it is definitely in need of cleaning . Do you know how I would go about it, I wouldn't think hand wash and iron would be the trick. Do I take it to be dry cleaned ? thank you for your time
Hand washing it is the best way of cleaning it really Arla but you need to know that the threads you stitched in it are colour fast. If you used a good brand like DMC or Anchor then they will be if you are not sure you will need to do a colour test. Snip small pieces of each colour off the ends on the back and put them on a damp paper towel and see if they run. If any run you can't wash it. If they are fast then just put it in a bowl of warm water with some gentle detergent and leave it, the dirt will lift out. You would need to ask a dry cleaner about washing it as this process uses chemicals, but they would know.
Hi Sarah 👋 community 👋 I’m doing a needlepoint project that’s quite varied in stitches and includes some larger threads- so my mesh is large as well as pulled work. So my point is, I have a lot of pulling and tugging going into this piece and my tacks keep coming out! So annoying and therefore I lose tension and have to stop and repair. Am I left only to assume with this project that staples are needed?
Yes you can staple Kimchi Love if you need to! Obviously if they are coming out that isn't helping you at all so do what you need to do! Make sure it doesn't stay on the frame forever though as they will rust eventually...
@@SarahHomfrayEmbroidery Why I nevaaah! 😮 leave... an ... embroidery... ina... hoop/bars.... for ....MONTHS!?!? 🤣 😉 Glad you reminded me of the rust, because that very well could’ve been an issue eventually 🤭 (used to do a lot of vintage crewel kits and was always so annoyed at the manufacturers who decided to put the needles in the fabric- 40yr old crewel needles rust) I TRY to keep my wips rotating now but there are occasions.... particularly when I’m excited and learning new techniques. Thanks so much for your response!
After finding this video I tried using bar frames for the first time. Unfortunately, I think I maybe didn't choose the right fabric: I ended up with permanent holes where the pins had been placed through the fabric. Is that at all common? I'm assuming it isn't, or you'd have mentioned it. Or is it that sensible people ensure that the holes will be in a place that won't be visible once the work is finished?
Yes you will get holes where the pins are Laura, but always use a frame the size of the fabric so the holes are at the edge. You can either then cut this fabric off or it won't show once you have finished your piece
@@SarahHomfrayEmbroidery I'll definitely do that in future! This time round I tried making something in a bar frame but I planned to put it in a display frame of roughly the same size. However, since the display frame was round, it displayed a bit of extra fabric, including holes :-( I'll know better for next time.
All your videos are useful!! Because there’s always something new or something that you need a reminder on!! Thank you!!
Thank you Sarah, it’s been two hours of watching your videos now, like going down a black hole! Brilliant, so much to learn
A nice black hole hopefully though Michele! :)
@@SarahHomfrayEmbroidery yes it is!! Wonderful few hours sitting in the shade with my headphones
Saw you using one of the stretcher bar frames on one of you newer videos and wanted more info on using them. Thanks for making a video to show how they work. Now I will be on the hunt for them. I'm hoping regular thumb tacks will work with them because I really don't want to pay for shipping to the states for for the pins. Thank you for all your really informative videos.
Your tutorials are excellent and you always bring up interesting and most useful topics and tips. Thank you!
Thanks Helena!
Thank you! I am starting on a new project that recommended using stretcher bar frame which I've had no experience using. I am not surprised I could count on you for a wonderful tutorial!
What a beautiful wall hanging behind you!!!!
I've seen these bar frames & wondered how to best use them. Now I know, I prefer a frame over a hoop but struggle with the size constraints. Thanks to you I can now customise my frames to suit me.
They are great Jane, I use them all the time!
@@SarahHomfrayEmbroidery I've placed an order for a 7", 8" & 9" so that should give me plenty of choice.
These are by far the easiest types of frames to find in the US (aside from embroidery hoops). All the big craft stores sell them. Whereas slate frames are special-order items that even most needlework shops don't carry.
These basic stretcher bars are what I've used for nearly all of my crewel and canvas work projects. I've used them for projects as big as 16"×20".There are fancier ones with screws that allow you to tighten them more even after the fabric is tacked in place, but those are expensive and I haven't tried them. The simple cheap ones work well enough for me.
Thank you soo much... I just got my silk frame. 💃💃
Just in time. About to start first big project on stretcher bars:)
Thank you 😊 I’ve been asking around about these stretch bars. You’ve been a GREAT HELP 🙋🏻♀️🧵🪡 you’re totally Awesome 👏💯
Very excellent and helpful video! Thank you, Sarah 💕
I have not used them for regular surface embroidery, only canvas counted work. But I think I will give them a go next time I start one.
They work great for most types of embroidery Kay!
Thank you for such a clear explanation. I got all my embroidery kit out of the loft this week and found a set of these frames, but couldn't remember why I'd bought them or what to do with them! I haven’t done any needlework in many years so I feel very rusty, but I’ve subscribed to your channel and will follow some of your beginner videos. Happy New Year Sarah. :)
Yay! Have fun rediscovering Sue!
Thank you
I was hoping someone from the UK could help me identify what pelmet interfacing is. I know what a pelmet is but not what this specific type of interfacing is. I was thinking something firm but padded?? No one seems to have a clue at the fabric store. I'm gathering materials to try some projects from the Jane Austin Embroidery book and several projects ask for this interfacing to be used. Thank you, Sue H.
Great video 💯👏
What kind of pins are those?I’m familiar with upholstery tacks and thumbtacks. Are yours made specifically for use on stretcher bars?
Thank you for all your videos. I learned so much from you. A QQ. Why do you use back fabric before the embroidery is done. Will that much thickness not make work difficult? I was wondering if it can be put in place once the work is done?
waiting for answer also...
Backing fabrics (typically just a simple muslin/calico) are important to help stabilize lighter-weight fabric when using heavier threads. I've always used muslin behind silk dupioni, for example, but I've never bothered when using a heavier fabric like linen twill or cotton duck.
Beyond stabilizing lighter fabrics it's also useful in goldwork when you need to secure plunged metal threads on the back.
@@tim1724 Thank you for the info
Tim says it all (see above)! I like a firmer ground to work on, it makes embroidering easier and finishing off look much neater (you can hide the ends inbetween the layers!). I don't use backing on counted fabrics (you would see it through the holes!) or heavy linen twill (the diagonal weave of a twill makes it twist in a different way to cottons and it is already heavy enough).
@@SarahHomfrayEmbroidery Thank you for more info.
Are the pins you use just drawing pins ir different. I am using drawing pins but some go in sligtly wonky? The aida also seems to have loosened in frame slightly, but it was tightly put on.
Drawing pins Alison! You may need to tighten the pins every now again, the fabric will lossen a little bit
I'm curious as to why they're not popular in the UK and what is used instead. :)
Ring frames tend to be more popular in the UK Josh; the bar frames suit canvas because it's so stiff, but canvas embroidery isn't very popular here compared to the States! I first came across them when I taught there and now I love them!
Excellent. Thank you.
Thanks for this video. I have not known bar frames. But I would like to ask you which frame do you use if you have a bigger picture with different parts you want to stitch. Do you use the ring frames for each part or do you frame the whole picture in a big frame? Could it be a problem to the fabric if only a part of the piece is in the hoop (e.g. different tension).
Thanks for your channel, I have already learned a lot from you! It is great that you share your knowledge with us! Have a blessed Sunday!
I suggest a roller bar frame or slate frame for bigger projects Sonja, see my video all about frames!
Would you clamp that frame into your Elbesee barrel frame holder?
Yes, perfect time to use it Mo M!
@@SarahHomfrayEmbroidery Thanks
This looks the same as stretcher frames that I use for canvas stretching (just fewer staple guns and less gesso involved).
Very similar R Burn!
Hello, I've just stumbled across your site. Since you seem quite knowledgeable , I have a cross stitch I have completed , probably 25 years ago, it is definitely in need of cleaning . Do you know how I would go about it, I wouldn't think hand wash and iron would be the trick. Do I take it to be dry cleaned ? thank you for your time
Hand washing it is the best way of cleaning it really Arla but you need to know that the threads you stitched in it are colour fast. If you used a good brand like DMC or Anchor then they will be if you are not sure you will need to do a colour test. Snip small pieces of each colour off the ends on the back and put them on a damp paper towel and see if they run. If any run you can't wash it. If they are fast then just put it in a bowl of warm water with some gentle detergent and leave it, the dirt will lift out. You would need to ask a dry cleaner about washing it as this process uses chemicals, but they would know.
Hi Sarah 👋 community 👋
I’m doing a needlepoint project that’s quite varied in stitches and includes some larger threads- so my mesh is large as well as pulled work.
So my point is, I have a lot of pulling and tugging going into this piece and my tacks keep coming out! So annoying and therefore I lose tension and have to stop and repair. Am I left only to assume with this project that staples are needed?
Yes you can staple Kimchi Love if you need to! Obviously if they are coming out that isn't helping you at all so do what you need to do! Make sure it doesn't stay on the frame forever though as they will rust eventually...
@@SarahHomfrayEmbroidery
Why I nevaaah! 😮 leave... an ... embroidery... ina... hoop/bars.... for ....MONTHS!?!?
🤣 😉
Glad you reminded me of the rust, because that very well could’ve been an issue eventually 🤭 (used to do a lot of vintage crewel kits and was always so annoyed at the manufacturers who decided to put the needles in the fabric- 40yr old crewel needles rust)
I TRY to keep my wips rotating now but there are occasions.... particularly when I’m excited and learning new techniques. Thanks so much for your response!
@@ChoochooseU Of course we all finish everything we started in good time! :)
Any tips for embroidering something larger than 12" x 12"? Even something like a 20" x 20"
You can get large frames Jessica! Look for a roller bar or stretcher bar frame for something this size
@@SarahHomfrayEmbroidery Thank you!!
Why do you use a backing fabric?
Check out my video on backing fabrics daisytwotoes!
@@SarahHomfrayEmbroidery Will do. Thanks!
After finding this video I tried using bar frames for the first time. Unfortunately, I think I maybe didn't choose the right fabric: I ended up with permanent holes where the pins had been placed through the fabric. Is that at all common? I'm assuming it isn't, or you'd have mentioned it. Or is it that sensible people ensure that the holes will be in a place that won't be visible once the work is finished?
I was using a cotton, though, so not a very flimsy fabric.
Yes you will get holes where the pins are Laura, but always use a frame the size of the fabric so the holes are at the edge. You can either then cut this fabric off or it won't show once you have finished your piece
@@SarahHomfrayEmbroidery I'll definitely do that in future! This time round I tried making something in a bar frame but I planned to put it in a display frame of roughly the same size. However, since the display frame was round, it displayed a bit of extra fabric, including holes :-(
I'll know better for next time.