I made a similar sink in the 70’s but used Fiberglass resin to coat the wood and I laid down some fiberglass cloth first in the seams - it never leaked in 30 years.
Thanks for sharing this video. When installing the drain, do you add the plumbers putty where the sides of the drain sits (what you routed out on the side)? Do you add any caulk anywhere to this area or just add the epoxy around the drain?
I first drilled the hole then drew a circle around the hole about 1/2 outside of it. I then routed out to the line about 1/8 of an inch down so that when I sat the drain in the hole that it was just slightly below the bottom of the sink. Once I had the hole routed properly, I painted the sink with 5 coats of the garage floor paint. I then took the plumbers putty and made a rope out of it (like you would playdough) made that into a circle and laid it into the routed out section. After placing the drain with the lip on top of the putty I fastened it down. If I had it to do over again, I would have used a kitchen sink drain instead of a bar sink drain. I may still go back and replace it someday.
How did the garage floor paint hold up? I have a Behr 1 Part epoxy garage floor paint for a sink I am currently building. All the notes say it is NOT recommended for wood, but there are some articles saying it's fine as long as I prime it. This was the only epoxy paint Home Depot had in stock.
It has been almost a year and it has held up great. I think the trick was that I did 5 coats. The last time I did this I used Marine Epoxy paint. It lasted about 5 years before it needed attention. However, the garage floor paint cost about 1/2 of what the Marine Epoxy paint did.
Update to your question. Last night, while preparing to do a printing session, I noticed a chip in the paint. Apparently I had dropped something in the sink and it exposed the bare wood. Not really happy about it. The plywood I used was factory primed and as you know, I put 5 coats of paint on it. I am currently in the process of sanding the sink to down so that I can repaint it. This time I am going with white FlexSeal paint. Another listener to the podcast used that and is very pleased with it. I will try to post a video update on it.
I made a similar sink in the 70’s but used Fiberglass resin to coat the wood and I laid down some fiberglass cloth first in the seams - it never leaked in 30 years.
I considered fiberglass but have never worked with it. I think the latest recoating is going to do the trick
well done. may i ask how big the room is?
Thanks for sharing this video. When installing the drain, do you add the plumbers putty where the sides of the drain sits (what you routed out on the side)? Do you add any caulk anywhere to this area or just add the epoxy around the drain?
I first drilled the hole then drew a circle around the hole about 1/2 outside of it. I then routed out to the line about 1/8 of an inch down so that when I sat the drain in the hole that it was just slightly below the bottom of the sink.
Once I had the hole routed properly, I painted the sink with 5 coats of the garage floor paint.
I then took the plumbers putty and made a rope out of it (like you would playdough) made that into a circle and laid it into the routed out section. After placing the drain with the lip on top of the putty I fastened it down.
If I had it to do over again, I would have used a kitchen sink drain instead of a bar sink drain. I may still go back and replace it someday.
How did the garage floor paint hold up? I have a Behr 1 Part epoxy garage floor paint for a sink I am currently building. All the notes say it is NOT recommended for wood, but there are some articles saying it's fine as long as I prime it. This was the only epoxy paint Home Depot had in stock.
It has been almost a year and it has held up great. I think the trick was that I did 5 coats. The last time I did this I used Marine Epoxy paint. It lasted about 5 years before it needed attention. However, the garage floor paint cost about 1/2 of what the Marine Epoxy paint did.
Update to your question. Last night, while preparing to do a printing session, I noticed a chip in the paint. Apparently I had dropped something in the sink and it exposed the bare wood. Not really happy about it. The plywood I used was factory primed and as you know, I put 5 coats of paint on it.
I am currently in the process of sanding the sink to down so that I can repaint it. This time I am going with white FlexSeal paint. Another listener to the podcast used that and is very pleased with it.
I will try to post a video update on it.
did you use 3/4 or 1/2 inch lumber, also how high are your side panels?
The plywood for the sink was 3/4 A/B primed plywood from Lowes. The base was assembled from 2x4's. The side panels are 7" high.