You are offering a great service here. I have been trying to find help with servicing my Ravelli stove for years without luck. This is the ticket. Much appreciated!!
Thank you for a great video! I´ve got the error 9, and boy, am I glad to find this. I´ve been troubleshooting for a long time, and just could not believe the pcb was the reason. Thanks again for taken the time to make a well prepared, steady, informative little gem on youtube.
I like your feed bin for pellets. I made my own out of a garbage pail and put a waste gate valve in the bottom.holds eight bags…works great just like yours.
It’s an excellent explanatory video that you created. I have exactly the same model the same year and it’s burning pellets that are slightly different from my last pellets and so in this case it’s burning, not as clean as it has all the other pellets, and I know I can make various adjustments to change the burn. Do you have a video on that said I could watch?
get a 3/8 plate of steel and match the air holes on the bottom of the burn pot, it will insulate it from further cracking. you could also do 1/2" up on the bottom for a bit more fire protection on the burn pot. Warping/cracking can can happen on the burn pots luckily we can just fabricate our own.
Hi, I’ve cleaned this pellet stove like yours, which I currently have on loan. However, I have a doubt about reassembling the flame deflector, and I’m afraid of positioning it incorrectly when the stove is turned back on. How is it secured, and what is its correct position? Could you possibly film it from underneath to show how this part should be placed? Should the slot of the flame deflector fit into the vertical U-shaped piece, or is its correct position to be fixed higher up? I don’t understand… Should it be almost horizontal, closing off the combustion chamber, or tilted and /or semi-open?
Hello! Hold the baffle with the slot pointed to the back of the stove and the solid tab on the front of the baffle bending down. Carefully lift the front tab tipping the baffle to more than 45° and raise it up inside the stove. Pull it back toward you resting the front tab on the flat bracket. Using your finger tips in the oval slot, continue to pull the baffle toward you raising the back cutout edge over the swing bracket. Push it slightly away from you and nest the cutout on the swing bracket. You may have to fiddle with the swing bracket a bit to get contact left to right. After install, the baffle is angled up to the front and sits on the front bracket and nests into/on the swing bracket. Hope this helps!
@@FUBARtractors Thank you for your fast response , you're very kind, I'll try to install it as you described , and with the help of this video of oyurs at 16:40 or so ! thanks again
Great video, we bought a RV100 in August and the technician never set up the RDS and never trained us, the wire for the flow meter was bad, so we spent over $1000 in service calls. Shouldn’t there be a manufacturer warranty?
I’d Google the warranty claim to see if the manufacturer or dealer provides a warranty. A quick Google and I didn’t see anything encouraging however. Good luck. Glad you like the video
Mine just started going out during modulate mode. Was fine last year and I just gave it a deep clean. Had it for 5 years and never had this issue. No errors either 🤔
Steve did you switch pellet brands? That happened to me once during brand change. I also had a pile of pellets at the top of feed cute once during a cleaning. Maybe try poking up there with your bottle brush. 🤷🏼♂️
@FUBARtractors I did switch, could the pellets be bigger or burn different? They told me they were soft wood. I went from lacrite to waste to warmth. I'm running it in rds mode to see if it can adjust. Frying blind but I'll try anything. I also used a shop vac on the feed tube to suck out any stuck pellets but still doing the same.
Yes Steve I’ve noticed different brands have different sizes of pellets. Always in RDS. I’ve always burned Douglas fir, a soft wood. Clean burn pellets were small and caused the stove to go out also put a lot of white crap on the glass that tasted salty. Burn pot was always orange like rust. I use Olympic now. Much longer, no white on the glass and burn pot is not as rusty looking. Try increasing your pellet feed. While stove is on, hit OK, OK to enter user menu. Advance thru icons with button 2 several times to get to set draught/ pellets, OK. Use button 2 (+) to move curser to the right increasing pellet %, OK to save. Experiment! My pellet % is at -4 because of the switch to Olympic. I kept reducing it until it barely stayed lit on modulation. Let me know how it goes.
I'm curious what your pellet and airflow percentage settings are, and any other tweaks you may have made. watching you clean had me thinking my settings must be off because I've got so much ash. and your flame looks much smaller than mine. thanks!
Yes I can put those in a comment. My ash bin is about 1/3 full each Sunday during the cold months. There is another 1/4 bins worth that falls in the side areas too. It will be a few days however before I can get to it. - Curtis.
Hello Adam. Sorry for the delay, I was out of town. My Francesca has a vertical 3” flue about 15’ tall and I pull combustion air from the crawl space via a 2” pipe. After I cleaned my stove the first time as shown in my videos, I reran the RDS set up. I found the codes online and a dealer present on how to do it. I still had some ignition problems with way, way too many pellets on ignition so I changed some of the IGNITION parameters (default settings) TF01 is the auger pulse now 3.6 seconds TF02 is the auger run time for initial load of pellets now 3 minutes. TF04 is the igniter timer and I backed it down to 120 seconds. Now the burn pot fills about 3/4 full and the auger stops while the igniter is heating up. It’s been a long time since I’ve had a failed start up with these settings. I also don’t have overflowing pellets during the initial “flame light” and 8 minute warm up like I used to after the “professionals” did my initial install. My stove runs in modulation about 90% of the time and the flame is so low sometimes you can’t see it unless you are looking down into the pot, perfect! My stove is ready for another deep cleaning. After that I’ll fuss with the user parameters If you want to contact me via email for more in depth discussions - fubartractorfactory@gmail.com Thanks, Curtis
Burn pots will eventually crack from repeated heating and cooling cycles. It could have happened faster because of the way the stove was set up by the installer. After “flame light” it would drop so many pellets it over flowed and flames would reach up past the flame trap. I re-ran the RDS set up and adjusted the initial load as small as possible. It now enters “Work mode” without being warm enough to start the blower. It’s not unusual for it to take 5 more minutes to start the blower.
hi I have the same stove and something very scary just happened. A small fire started on the TOP of the stove under the small reservoir for water. I was able to extinguish the fire, and to my dismay there were a lot of pellets under the reservoir plate. I cannot figure out how they got there. I don't overload the hopper. Any ideas? Thanks Peter
I’ve had pellets on top of the heat exchanger too. I check that area every time I vacuum the stove. Pellets can overflow the front of the hopper. Take off your ceramic cover. See the 5 circular holes just under the cover? You’ll notice the top edge of the hopper by looking thru those holes. There is a gap between those two parts. Pellets can also bounce into the 5 holes while filling even if you have the ceramic cover in place. Listen when you fill the hopper. I’ve gotten good at distinguishing the sound of pellets that fall on top of the heat exchanger.
@@FUBARtractors Thanks Curtis. I can see how some pellets would bounce up. But there were also pellets in the shallow water reservoir too! Is it still possible for pellets to bounce directly into that pan? It's almost as if someone not knowing how to load the stove started loading in that compartment rather than the hopper....
I got my Flow meter and holder from Earth Sense Energy Systems Inc. PH-55255 is the part number they use. I just did a search and found one on eBay and here too: pellet-stove-parts-4less.com/products/ravelli-pellet-stove-flowmeter-and-holder-55255-amp?variant=41307021508780&gclid=CjwKCAjwpqCZBhAbEiwAa7pXeUGMhVY2mkf_oIgaANKX2XuiDVqUSN0ndiOpi-z8HAVzbEYHkv00WRoCqRsQAvD_BwE
How did you manage to only have that much ash after 3-4 days? I have to empty mine after 2 days. What setting do you run on? And at what temp desired temp
Hello Andrew. I run my stove on setting 4. I also run it using the thermostat so it runs on “work” then down to “modulation” om Modulation it goes from 5” flames to barely a flame cycling randomly. I’ve tried setting 5 but it spews out too many red hot pellets that end up in the ash bin. After a week, the ash in the bin is piled up and coming out of the front left corner of the bin. A quick shake and it’s about 1/2 full. Sometimes if the house is cold soaked (51°F) it will run on high for 6 hours before switching to low. I use the stove thermostat set to 66 or 69. A thermostat on the wall right next to the stove tops out at 71 to 75° depending on outside temps. You can adjust your pellet drop and burn fan with the user settings.
Cheers I appreciate it! How many bags do you go through a day? Would you mind posting your airflow/pellet flow % that you use? Understandablly it depends on the type of pellets. But I guess since you are at a high setting (4) it burns them more efficiently.
Hi Andrew. About 1/3 to 1/2 bag a day, more if the house is cold soaked and 51°. As time goes on and the stove gets dirtier I change the user settings. When I run out of adjustment the stove gets cleaned. I’m just about there now. I used the RDS set up after my first deep clean. It picks all the draught and pellet values for setting 1-5. I don’t know what those settings are at the moment. I’m at -3% pellets and +4 % flow.
@@FUBARtractors Really appreciate it. I'll make some adjustments to my settings to see what fits best. one last question, the temperature probe located behind the unit, how far or how close from the unit is it? I'm trying to find the optimal distance to have an ideal temp (between the top temp probe and the back temp probe)
I have my thermocouple stretched out as far as it will reach. I think it’s a couple inches. When I bought the stove the instal bastards didn’t pull it out so it reached temp in an hour or so and I had to lie to the thermostat setting and set it in the high 70’s. I think that’s the only thermostat (thermocouple or thermistor or what ever it is). You can plug in a thermostat but you have to click the box on the display to have it read that one instead of the onboard one.
Hello Curtis, After I did a thorough cleaning there appears to be an issue with the flame. It starts out nice and big and then dies down to a very minimal flame, gets a little bigger and then small flame again. I am using a good softwood pellet. Any suggestions?
What phase is this occurring in? Work, modulation, flame light or waiting flame? If it’s work or modulation adjust your pellet auger to run a bit longer using your display. Go to Menu User (ok) use button 2 to scroll to set draught/pellets (ok) change your percent pellets to move the indicator to the right (higher) If in the waiting flame/flame light phase you can test it by putting a dozen pellets in the burn pot before you start it and if that solves the problem you will need to adjust your internal parameters (either the fill time (in minutes) or the auger pulse time (in X.X seconds) which requires a key code.
@@gsquare8585 yup! I had the same problem when I switched pellet brands but mine was going out. I’d see a pile of unburned pellets in the pot and “out of pellets” on the display. The hopper would be full. Increase your pellet % thru the user display as I described if it bothers you or the stove goes out. I run mine as low as possible to conserve pellets and not have to shut it down because the room is too hot. As a reference, sometimes on Modulation I see no flame unless I go look down into the pot and then I see just a hint of a flame on a pellet or two. Later it will be three or so inches high again. I still get flame outs but not more than one ever couple of months. That is acceptable to me.
@@FUBARtractors Good morning, the glass appears to have more black soot than before when it was basically white. would I need to increase the air? Thanks,
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You are offering a great service here. I have been trying to find help with servicing my Ravelli stove for years without luck. This is the ticket. Much appreciated!!
Thank you for a great video!
I´ve got the error 9, and boy, am I glad to find this. I´ve been troubleshooting for a long time, and just could not believe the pcb was the reason.
Thanks again for taken the time to make a well prepared, steady, informative little gem on youtube.
Best instructions by far, thank you
Very helpful video was a little nervous to clean mine the first time, thanks!
Great walk through! Thanks for the tips and info.
Glad it was helpful!
I like your feed bin for pellets. I made my own out of a garbage pail and put a waste gate valve in the bottom.holds eight bags…works great just like yours.
It’s an excellent explanatory video that you created. I have exactly the same model the same year and it’s burning pellets that are slightly different from my last pellets and so in this case it’s burning, not as clean as it has all the other pellets, and I know I can make various adjustments to change the burn. Do you have a video on that said I could watch?
get a 3/8 plate of steel and match the air holes on the bottom of the burn pot, it will insulate it from further cracking. you could also do 1/2" up on the bottom for a bit more fire protection on the burn pot. Warping/cracking can can happen on the burn pots luckily we can just fabricate our own.
Thanks for the tip, I never thought about making my own burn pots, great idea!
Hi, I’ve cleaned this pellet stove like yours, which I currently have on loan. However, I have a doubt about reassembling the flame deflector, and I’m afraid of positioning it incorrectly when the stove is turned back on. How is it secured, and what is its correct position? Could you possibly film it from underneath to show how this part should be placed? Should the slot of the flame deflector fit into the vertical U-shaped piece, or is its correct position to be fixed higher up? I don’t understand… Should it be almost horizontal, closing off the combustion chamber, or tilted and /or semi-open?
Hello! Hold the baffle with the slot pointed to the back of the stove and the solid tab on the front of the baffle bending down. Carefully lift the front tab tipping the baffle to more than 45° and raise it up inside the stove. Pull it back toward you resting the front tab on the flat bracket. Using your finger tips in the oval slot, continue to pull the baffle toward you raising the back cutout edge over the swing bracket. Push it slightly away from you and nest the cutout on the swing bracket. You may have to fiddle with the swing bracket a bit to get contact left to right.
After install, the baffle is angled up to the front and sits on the front bracket and nests into/on the swing bracket.
Hope this helps!
I can’t film anything at the moment. However I do remember in one of the Francesca vids I do show the baffle orientation before I install it.
@@FUBARtractors Thank you for your fast response , you're very kind, I'll try to install it as you described , and with the help of this video of oyurs at 16:40 or so ! thanks again
Great video, we bought a RV100 in August and the technician never set up the RDS and never trained us, the wire for the flow meter was bad, so we spent over $1000 in service calls. Shouldn’t there be a manufacturer warranty?
I’d Google the warranty claim to see if the manufacturer or dealer provides a warranty. A quick Google and I didn’t see anything encouraging however. Good luck. Glad you like the video
Mine just started going out during modulate mode. Was fine last year and I just gave it a deep clean. Had it for 5 years and never had this issue. No errors either 🤔
Steve did you switch pellet brands? That happened to me once during brand change. I also had a pile of pellets at the top of feed cute once during a cleaning. Maybe try poking up there with your bottle brush. 🤷🏼♂️
@FUBARtractors I did switch, could the pellets be bigger or burn different? They told me they were soft wood. I went from lacrite to waste to warmth. I'm running it in rds mode to see if it can adjust. Frying blind but I'll try anything. I also used a shop vac on the feed tube to suck out any stuck pellets but still doing the same.
Yes Steve I’ve noticed different brands have different sizes of pellets. Always in RDS. I’ve always burned Douglas fir, a soft wood. Clean burn pellets were small and caused the stove to go out also put a lot of white crap on the glass that tasted salty. Burn pot was always orange like rust.
I use Olympic now. Much longer, no white on the glass and burn pot is not as rusty looking.
Try increasing your pellet feed.
While stove is on, hit OK, OK to enter user menu. Advance thru icons with button 2 several times to get to set draught/ pellets, OK. Use button 2 (+) to move curser to the right increasing pellet %, OK to save. Experiment! My pellet % is at -4 because of the switch to Olympic. I kept reducing it until it barely stayed lit on modulation. Let me know how it goes.
@@FUBARtractors thanks! Works perfect now.
I'm curious what your pellet and airflow percentage settings are, and any other tweaks you may have made. watching you clean had me thinking my settings must be off because I've got so much ash. and your flame looks much smaller than mine. thanks!
Yes I can put those in a comment. My ash bin is about 1/3 full each Sunday during the cold months. There is another 1/4 bins worth that falls in the side areas too. It will be a few days however before I can get to it. - Curtis.
Hello Adam. Sorry for the delay, I was out of town.
My Francesca has a vertical 3” flue about 15’ tall and I pull combustion air from the crawl space via a 2” pipe. After I cleaned my stove the first time as shown in my videos, I reran the RDS set up. I found the codes online and a dealer present on how to do it. I still had some ignition problems with way, way too many pellets on ignition so I changed some of the IGNITION parameters (default settings)
TF01 is the auger pulse now 3.6 seconds
TF02 is the auger run time for initial load of pellets now 3 minutes.
TF04 is the igniter timer and I backed it down to 120 seconds.
Now the burn pot fills about 3/4 full and the auger stops while the igniter is heating up. It’s been a long time since I’ve had a failed start up with these settings. I also don’t have overflowing pellets during the initial “flame light” and 8 minute warm up like I used to after the “professionals” did my initial install.
My stove runs in modulation about 90% of the time and the flame is so low sometimes you can’t see it unless you are looking down into the pot, perfect!
My stove is ready for another deep cleaning. After that I’ll fuss with the user parameters
If you want to contact me via email for more in depth discussions - fubartractorfactory@gmail.com
Thanks, Curtis
I have the same model.
2800 euros.
No problem in 4 years .
Why the brasero is Broken???
Thanks!!
Burn pots will eventually crack from repeated heating and cooling cycles. It could have happened faster because of the way the stove was set up by the installer. After “flame light” it would drop so many pellets it over flowed and flames would reach up past the flame trap. I re-ran the RDS set up and adjusted the initial load as small as possible. It now enters “Work mode” without being warm enough to start the blower. It’s not unusual for it to take 5 more minutes to start the blower.
hi I have the same stove and something very scary just happened. A small fire started on the TOP of the stove under the small reservoir for water. I was able to extinguish the fire, and to my dismay there were a lot of pellets under the reservoir plate. I cannot figure out how they got there. I don't overload the hopper. Any ideas?
Thanks Peter
I’ve had pellets on top of the heat exchanger too. I check that area every time I vacuum the stove. Pellets can overflow the front of the hopper. Take off your ceramic cover. See the 5 circular holes just under the cover? You’ll notice the top edge of the hopper by looking thru those holes. There is a gap between those two parts. Pellets can also bounce into the 5 holes while filling even if you have the ceramic cover in place. Listen when you fill the hopper. I’ve gotten good at distinguishing the sound of pellets that fall on top of the heat exchanger.
@@FUBARtractors Thanks Curtis. I can see how some pellets would bounce up. But there were also pellets in the shallow water reservoir too! Is it still possible for pellets to bounce directly into that pan? It's almost as if someone not knowing how to load the stove started loading in that compartment rather than the hopper....
Any links on where to get a replacement flow meter?
I got my Flow meter and holder from Earth Sense Energy Systems Inc. PH-55255 is the part number they use. I just did a search and found one on eBay and here too:
pellet-stove-parts-4less.com/products/ravelli-pellet-stove-flowmeter-and-holder-55255-amp?variant=41307021508780&gclid=CjwKCAjwpqCZBhAbEiwAa7pXeUGMhVY2mkf_oIgaANKX2XuiDVqUSN0ndiOpi-z8HAVzbEYHkv00WRoCqRsQAvD_BwE
Curious if you have done a deep cleaning video you referenced in this video?
Hello John, not yet. Probably at the end of February. I’m also planning to get some borescope shots if it works out to see inside the blower housing.
@@FUBARtractors That's great. Lots of good information.
How did you manage to only have that much ash after 3-4 days? I have to empty mine after 2 days. What setting do you run on? And at what temp desired temp
Hello Andrew. I run my stove on setting 4. I also run it using the thermostat so it runs on “work” then down to “modulation” om Modulation it goes from 5” flames to barely a flame cycling randomly. I’ve tried setting 5 but it spews out too many red hot pellets that end up in the ash bin.
After a week, the ash in the bin is piled up and coming out of the front left corner of the bin. A quick shake and it’s about 1/2 full. Sometimes if the house is cold soaked (51°F) it will run on high for 6 hours before switching to low. I use the stove thermostat set to 66 or 69. A thermostat on the wall right next to the stove tops out at 71 to 75° depending on outside temps.
You can adjust your pellet drop and burn fan with the user settings.
Cheers I appreciate it! How many bags do you go through a day? Would you mind posting your airflow/pellet flow % that you use? Understandablly it depends on the type of pellets. But I guess since you are at a high setting (4) it burns them more efficiently.
Hi Andrew. About 1/3 to 1/2 bag a day, more if the house is cold soaked and 51°. As time goes on and the stove gets dirtier I change the user settings. When I run out of adjustment the stove gets cleaned. I’m just about there now. I used the RDS set up after my first deep clean. It picks all the draught and pellet values for setting 1-5. I don’t know what those settings are at the moment. I’m at -3% pellets and +4 % flow.
@@FUBARtractors Really appreciate it. I'll make some adjustments to my settings to see what fits best. one last question, the temperature probe located behind the unit, how far or how close from the unit is it? I'm trying to find the optimal distance to have an ideal temp (between the top temp probe and the back temp probe)
I have my thermocouple stretched out as far as it will reach. I think it’s a couple inches. When I bought the stove the instal bastards didn’t pull it out so it reached temp in an hour or so and I had to lie to the thermostat setting and set it in the high 70’s. I think that’s the only thermostat (thermocouple or thermistor or what ever it is). You can plug in a thermostat but you have to click the box on the display to have it read that one instead of the onboard one.
Hello Curtis, After I did a thorough cleaning there appears to be an issue with the flame. It starts out nice and big and then dies down to a very minimal flame, gets a little bigger and then small flame again. I am using a good softwood pellet. Any suggestions?
What phase is this occurring in? Work, modulation, flame light or waiting flame?
If it’s work or modulation adjust your pellet auger to run a bit longer using your display. Go to Menu User (ok) use button 2 to scroll to set draught/pellets (ok) change your percent pellets to move the indicator to the right (higher)
If in the waiting flame/flame light phase you can test it by putting a dozen pellets in the burn pot before you start it and if that solves the problem you will need to adjust your internal parameters (either the fill time (in minutes) or the auger pulse time (in X.X seconds) which requires a key code.
@@FUBARtractors It's happening during modulation.
@@gsquare8585 yup! I had the same problem when I switched pellet brands but mine was going out. I’d see a pile of unburned pellets in the pot and “out of pellets” on the display. The hopper would be full.
Increase your pellet % thru the user display as I described if it bothers you or the stove goes out.
I run mine as low as possible to conserve pellets and not have to shut it down because the room is too hot.
As a reference, sometimes on Modulation I see no flame unless I go look down into the pot and then I see just a hint of a flame on a pellet or two. Later it will be three or so inches high again. I still get flame outs but not more than one ever couple of months. That is acceptable to me.
@@FUBARtractors Thanks Curtis, that's kind of what I was thinking. No error codes is a good thing! It goes on and off as it is supposed to.
@@FUBARtractors Good morning, the glass appears to have more black soot than before when it was basically white. would I need to increase the air? Thanks,