These 2 innovations lead us to cheap solar electricity
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- This is the beginning of my experiments with this new solar heater which contains this row of mirrors on the surface of this earthen berm. This mirror berm is many times cheaper than the concave mirrors for large solar power plants. Investors have already built more than a hundred of the power plants with a total cost of about $ 40,000,000,000
A similar mirror focuses solar radiation into such a receiver, where solar energy is converted into thermal energy with a temperature of almost 400 ºC which are converted into steam to produce electricity. In addition, some of that thermal energy comes into similar heat storages to generate steam and electricity at night. It is obvious that if this mirror berm reduces the cost of those solar plants by several times, the cost of our solar electricity will drastically decrease, and therefore we will win the competition against thermal and nuclear power plants.
We can notice the following 2 major innovations of this solar heater. First, it uses such mirrors which are made of cheap and long-lasting concrete. The 2nd innovation is this cheap berm which is made from the surrounding soil, and now I will try to prove to you the expediency of these 2 innovations.
We usually think that the main parts of such solar heaters are this mirror and this receiver, but here we see that they form only about 40 % of the cost of a solar heater. At the same time, this half of its cost is formed by various structures and devices between the mirrors and the ground, but we get rid of this half of the cost if we replace them with our cheap earthen berm.
It is interesting that the heavy weight of our concrete mirrors turns into an advantage because our heavy mirrors cannot be moved by a hurricane.
Now I remind you that traditional solar heaters must constantly turn according to the movement of the sun across the sky. We replace this movement of the mirrors by this movement of the receiver, and we can notice that this system is many times cheaper than those devices for rotating large and heavy mirrors. Our mirrors and receivers should be located along this West-East line, while the rows of traditional solar heaters are usually perpendicular to this West-East line.
I have to clarify that this earthen berm was built for 50 degrees north latitude where my experiments are taking place. If it were located in the tropics, the berm would have to be something like this, lower and cheaper. The location near the equator allows us to abandon any earthen berm, and we can put our heavy concrete mirrors on the ground.
The total construction cost of the solar heaters for these European and American power plants was approximately 300-400 $ / sq.m. However, these new Chinese power plants use cheaper solar heaters with a total construction cost of about 200 $ / sq.m. The cost of the materials of this concrete mirror is about one hundred times less, about 1.5 $ / sq.m, and this is the cost of its materials.
Of course, we understand that we must add other costs for the manufacture and installation of our mirrors, and the costs regarding this earthen berm and this receiver. But still the total construction cost of our solar heater can be many times cheaper than traditional ones, especially if someone makes a machine that will build an earthen berm and put concrete mirrors on it.
Let's look at how I made my mirrors with my own hands, although we understand that we should have an automated production of our concrete mirrors, similar to factories for the production of such well-known concrete products. The making of my mirror began with this reflective film which was temporarily fixed with moisture on a curved surface. Then I put the 1st layer of concrete which is composed of sand with a large proportion of cement. After a short wait, about 1 hour, I put the 2nd layer of concrete from sand and gravel. The 2nd concrete layer must be reinforced, and I did the reinforcement not with similar steel rods, but with this polymer fiber.
Let's look at how my concrete mirrors focus the sun's rays on this white screen, and this is a spot of solar radiation from my mirrors. We can notice that the height of the spot is about 10 times less than the height of the mirrors, but we have seen that I made my mirrors badly, and maybe someone will make them better so that the spot is several tens of times smaller.
Your idea would be an excellent source of heat for thermal desalination in tropical deserts. For that purpose you don't need the high pressures needed to turn a turbine.
So Glad the Sun Is Still Shining 🌟 for you my Friend 👀
Common denominator of all solar energy devices? . Not working in moonlight?
I thought of this years ago, but did not use a dirt berm, but instead planted it in the ground pointing straight up. My paranolic curve was basically half a circle. Picture a barrel cut in half long ways and sunk in the ground. The pivot point of the collector was the center of the barrel ends, extending approximately six feet up where the collector was attached. Although my curvature was made of plexiglass instead of concrete. In the end, my experiment made a better water collector than sun collector because the mirror heated up, causing condensation, leaving an inch of water everyday. I do like your idea. It's certainly caused my inventive juices to once again flow. Lol
Can we please have contacts of each other .
I am not scientific mindid like you .but i can get things executed.
If i see some interest here .i will start with sharing my contact .
I am confident that your initial efforts will see fruition
@@nooruddindaud2303 did you need rotate primary mirror? for how long hour / day it give you thermal energy?
Thank you for your continuing endeavours
The reason your first set of mirrors delaminated is that concrete during the cure phase does a bit out outgassing. The small amount of gas was trapped between the layers. In an ideal situation, pour your concrete to shape, let set, then permit to cure for 30 days. After that apply your reflective surface as you did in the video.
By the way an earth berm is self-stable at 43 degrees.
Does the self-stable angle change with difference mixtures of clay and water etc? Or is 43° just for straight dirt?
@@omfgishBenneh Ben I am sure it would be different for mixtures. That said if you take a bag of dry sand and drop it on the floor like a stream from a hour glass the resulting angle is ~43 degrees. Egyptians knew this and most of the pyramids are at that approximate angle.
@@johnmcginnis5201 That is a very cool fun fact.
Can you all shut up and mass produce these solar machines so I can buy them at my supermarket. are you trying to help people or just look clever?
@@thegenius8817 There is an old saying -- "help is at the end of your arms." So why not do it yourself?
One more thought: For yrs I've been thinking about greenhouses based on reflection rather than glass/plastic. If you had an earthen dome with a small opening facing north, and a solar concentrating array to its north but focused on the slot, you could concentrate rays on a white interior ceiling and grow under the inner dome. it would be much easier to keep warm, and with a wide enough exterior array not even require electricity or moving parts. To keep cool a vent could be used (and beeswax pistons can auto open/close if needed). Food for thought...
Jesse H - I'm sorry, but I don't understand your description. Can you explain what you mean by inner and outer earthen domes? Also, what slot? Thanks.
Your thouroughness is admirable and matches your creativity! 👍👍👍
Once in a while you hit a home run on RUclips...This fellow has hit one. Well explained, and measured success, for all of us inventors and innovators we now have one more great mind in the garden of understanding. This is one we can have a lot of fun with...Thank-You
It's comments like yours that make me believe there's still hope for the human race. Well said, sir!
@@kimchiman1000 My friend, in light of all of the commotion which surrounds us, the most important consideration is you. Today you have a front row seat to witness the greatest collapse in history. The empire is crumbling. In this what is of most importance is food and energy production, both of which are readily at hand. The Sun is my new best friend. I love solar energy, solar water heating, solar air heating, and electric bicycles. With todays technology we can grow food anywhere 365 days of the year. We are in the midst of several evolving cycles, many of which will appear as hell on Earth. Sir there is another side to all this chaos (fear) and I guarantee it works. The other side is Love, begin with yourself, than begin to Love everything. Our current default is fear, as we begin to say no to fear, these neurotransmitters in the brain will die and new neurotransmitters in your brain will create new love paths. One day fear will be behind you, and you will think OMG " I accepted that" Love is very very powerful, You are Love, fear is an imposter. When fear comes knocking send it walking. Where it shows up most are in past or future thoughts, begin deleting those now. Have a Wonderful day, this is the age of Aquarius and you have a front row seat, or you can say what the heck and jump into the current...namaste
Great research. A sheet of polished stainless steel would work well. It only needs cleaning once a year & a repolish every 5 years. The plastic film will break down in 0ne year. So SS is the direction you might follow for longevity. Keep up the great work.
I see u used a polycarbonate sheet as a base for your mold so the concrete's weight caused it to get an uneven surface. I would suggest using a metal sheet as a base, apply a nonstick substance to the metal then pour the concrete. To get a smooth surface find a way to vibrate the mould. After the concrete is hardened you can apply some finishing product for walls to make the mould even smoother.
My guess is that he gets a better cost per square meter when using a thicker concrete layer and thinner metal when sacrificing the lifespan of the metal layer
Furniture polish works well as a mould release agent!
An electrical jigsaw works well to vibrate concrete in small moulds.
@@Calligraphybooster As does a sander. or even a drill with a bent rod in the chuck ;o)
@@totherarf 😂
i love how objective you are being about this whole process
a suggestion to replace the film: super highly polished metal sheets - they can be cut to size and rolled to any curvature; then affixed to the concrete with permanent fastners, and it should last indefinitely, just needing the rare repolish
also then you could hook up a low heat add on to keep snow/ice off in the winter
Nope it will be damaged by oxidation.
May be gold foil. But it will not be very cheap.
@@nomars4827 oxidation can be prevented by Anode protection method, ie. By connecting the metal surface with +ve side of small battery and an iron rod as negative. We use this method in wind turbines standing in ocean etc
@@tyagirajdeep yeap I know this method. Nice idea to use it to protect foil layers!
@@jacobsparkyspratt oxidatión no in metal sheets of zinc-aluminum.
Hi Sergiy, nice to hear from you. Hope you are ok! When I see this clip showing a concrete based desigan I must say I like it. I think it is an appealing idea but there is something I get stuck with in my thoughts. As I am working as a product developer I very often evaluate and take into account the different types of costs during production. Here, in Sweden, the labour is a big part of the cost and the material is often the smallest part of the cost. Do you think the manufacturing of the concrete type of collector is possible to automatize in production? (I know very little about concrete designing..) Thanks for your interesting videos. /Tomas
In bigger scale there is option to made silicon mould and let the concrete set in it, that will increase speed of production, and together with vibrating of mould and proper parabolic shape of to be reflective surface can fast produce cheap and accurate mirrors.
From the video it looks to me like his method would mean less labor because the earth could be dug and / or concrete cast using large scale equipment.
@@nathanlewis42 ok. I was thinking on making the concrete collector itself. Using soil as support I consider to be a great idea as it does not contribute to the global material consumpion.
What about shiny silver spray paint
Could you put epoxy resin over that?
Здравствуйте Сергей. Рад вас слышать, надеюсь с вами всё в порядке. Берегите себя!
It will be interesting to see how you extract the heat to serve a useful purpose. Looks like there is too much energy concentration for silicon PV panels and I assume either direct use as "heat" or possibly a converted internal combustion to steam engine-powered electricity generator would, at least, be feasible if sized correctly. I liked the elegant way to track the sun by pumping water to alter the balance of the collection array - scalable, cheap and, I presume, effective.
I think when i saw a drone shot of some of his other installs, he is just heating large tanks of water and swimming pools. Low pressure hot water systems are one thing, steam at high enough pressure to turn a turbine another. I think he'd have to scale it up quite a bit to create significant pressure. You then start to need pumps to push the water into the pressurised vessel generating the steam etc. Its starts to make you think, heat water for hot water, and use PV for power....
@@InquisitiveBaldMan - using an evacuated system will get steam from much lower temps (direct solar irradiance, for instance) that can turn a turbine quite effectively with no "explosive expansion" hazard of a higher than atmospheric pressure system.
@@orcoastgreenman Does this mean a system under vacuum? I understand this would make steam at a lower temp but how it turns a turbine more easily is way over my head...
@@InquisitiveBaldMan - Yes... even moderate and easily achievable levels of vaccum allow low thermal differentials to be used to extract motive force, eliminating the need to have mirrors. And is safer than high temperature pressurized steam, for the home inventor to work with. When most of the compressible gassed are removed, cold steam can operate at supersonic velocities, as it does when functioning in heat pipe systems like the ones in the solar evacuated tubes, or heat pipes on your pc or laptop CPU or GPU.
@@InquisitiveBaldMan One could put the an entire low pressure steam turbine and generator within a sealed can and just run the power output through wiring out of of the can. Doesn't have to total zero vacuum just reduced enough to function. Think of it like a refrigerant compressor system only backwards. Perhaps 'backward heat pump' is the better term.
Steam turbines operate most efficiently at high temperature -1500 C. I would like to see a prototype of this device operating in immediate proximity with a PV farm. Compare the power output of the prototype to the PV scaling by land use requirements. Digitize I and V outputs as function of time. Use the the test data for calculating estimates at larger scale
If you have local access to a PV farm, can you replicate the project and submit/upload results? Or donate to this guy if he’s able to do-so?
The use of concrete forms should enable the use of thinner gauges of series 5000 aluminum sheet. The framed units need to be able to bear up to wind loading and help support their own mass. Sheeting used in soda cans start at 250 microns, and thins down to 100 microns at the walls. They are also EPS coated for chemical resistance, because soda cans only use 3000 series alloys, but still endure quite a long time.
Das ist wirklich interessant.
isso
Have you ever tried adding a layer of transparent plastic on top of the aluminium foil? It might help to make them much longer lasting, it works for mylar bags for example. However I dont know if there is a plastic that is heat resistant enough for what you need.
I would like to text this method too
Or use acrylic to coat the top with a clear coat.
So interesting.
1. Don't the solar receivers cast a shadow on your mirrors, attenuating some of the possible energy received?
2. What is the curvature that you are using for your mirror?
3. How do you mechanize the movement of the receiver follow the sun?
4. Could you put solar cells on the receiver, and yet still get some heat conducting through to the back mounting plate?
5. Is it possible to store the heat in a heat reservoir and then have some tubes running through the reservoir and pump a heat transferring medium through pipe and inside some buildings that need to be heated?
6. How long does it take for your water to heat up and puff steam like that.
Very cool; simple, efficient and low tech energy production and management.
My biggest concern remain the mylar sheet. From my climate (south of france: very arid and hot in the summer, negative °C and very humid in winter), mylar hold no more than a year, leaving small pieces of mylar all over the garden. I even had to vacuum the garden when i dismantled the installation. Polished metal sheet are too expensive and too sensible to corrosion. For now i rely on bathroom mirror i find free in garbage bins. The best would be a reflective paint that can be sprayed with a can spray. Those exist but are generally quite expensive. I would love to see a reliable experminent on different paint (white, metal, shiny white...) to see their % of reflection. A cheap white paint with something like 50% reflection of heat would be worth it as space isn't the biggest issue for me.
I think metal sheets are cheap at large orders generally a roll, which is like 5-20ton
This is awesome. If you can keep it consistently cheaper regarding $ per kwh, it will certainly grab some attention
I used old flourescent light reflectors. Did this over 20 years ago. Nice to see those with million dollar research budgets catching up. Better late than never.
coat the concrete with some filler like epoxy or even outdoor paint, maybe plaster, gypsum or such to fill in the rough surface of concrete. then you can polish the surface quite smooth..
THEN you install reflective Film on the smooth(er) surface...
. After that you spray with clear car paint, for better protection, polish again, like a car shiny it must be..
Also try just Black oven paint instead of film, then coat several layers of clean car paint and polish to best polish you can do.. black mirrors work quite nicely for IR frequency of light...;)
Now that's another experiment hey, are black mirrors better it doesn't pass through cloud as well as UV though but always good to know
@@dmbrookfield yeah. but i think i would/will rather try a white base instead of Black .. dunno how i came up with Black. I should try em side by side 🤔🤓
Great work!!! Thanks for sharing with us!! Glad to see you back on the channel. I hope you are doing well ✌️
Interesting.
Maybe a styroaircret version to get the shape and find a cheap middle medium that will go between the back and reflective surface but allows the reflective surface to be smoother. Styroaircret might prove to be too light in the end.
Cheers
papercrete is lighter and easy to move, to get rigidity make it ferro.
I'd love to see a video detailing the construction of your collector / receiver. Thank you for your continued efforts. We all pray for a speedy conclusion to the conflict and an independent Ukraine.
The trouble will be the smoothness of the mylar on the concrete as mentioned. I am not a mason, but I have been studying concrete housing and this video might help with achieving a Uniform and less porous finish. The mylar could be made into an airform described much like your videos suggested. From there inflated to shape and have the concrete poured over. watch?v=DVk6xNFduH4 I hope this helps Sergiy. Stay safe.
You could use epoxy or something like that as surface on the concrete, this could be the molded onto it to have a really good surface quality... the mylar could also then be glued onto this surface, using some mold with high surface quality (like bent high quality polished metal sheet) and the result should be really good. With molding you get really close to the surface quality your mold has.
@@Nobody-Nowhere Ideally the less materials involved the better. for sticking to the concrete tile mortar will work great. Smoothing it manually is possible too, just thinking maybe there's a more effective way. a steamroller 's wheel comes to mind for whatever reason in my head.
if the mirror cross section is long, you can have a larger sink for the heat and hence small wrinkles will still hit the sink
The concrete will contract?
I wonder, would earth erosion (for example after heavy rain) impacting the integrity of the berm be a valid concern?
Some possible improvements.
1. Narrower with of each section built on a jig or form.
2. Put the jig or form with the concrete into a large plastic garbage bag, and vacuum out the air. This will remove all the air in the concrete and keep it in place to dry in the vacuum bag. Also keep it wet in the bag so it dries very hard.
3. After 3 Days to a week removed from vacuum ( garbage) bag. Allow to dry or put on second coat and put back in the vacuum bag and repeat the vacuum process again, for 3-7 days.
4. Remove from vacuum bag. Allow concrete to air dry 28 day, away from rain.
This concert sweating is what caused the bubbles on the shiny Mylar.
5. Shellac to bond mylar to concrete. Cheap and should work. Put back in vacuum bag to squeeze out all air pressure between mylar and shellac.
Getting your film to stick might require degassing the concrete with a vacuum chamber after you apply your film! Air under the film will expand when heated! It might also be the two materials expand at different rates, causing them to separate!
Hi love your vids.....product here in Australia called bondcrete that makes concrete stick i have also seen a reflector made from a mosaic of old broken mirrors ....all the best and take care
My biggest concern would be cleaning and the impact that would have on the film. I wonder if there is a highly reflective epoxy-based paint that could be used instead? Another option could be to use polished concrete instead.
A simple fine spray of water surely and perhaps a sponge, those sheets aren't as delicate as you might think, especially as they're glued down. Painting perhaps increases the cost and complexity and time to setup?
I'd think that should it be damaged then just another very cheap sheet over the top would do the job?
From France BRAVO
Mylar, perhaps?
The sheets are not durable because uv lights, cold and heat completely destroyed one after a year I heard from some guy, fine pieces all over gardeb
El turno necesita un circuito cerrado con una mini bomba que lo engrasa pero está preparado para altas revoluciones y mucha temperatura es perfecto y estudiado para gases
Podrás colocar un alternador bien sobrado de revoluciones
A thin sheet of High Density Polyethylene( HDPE) plastic is flexible yet flat and smooth enough to form concrete (or other materials) into a curved shape that would make for an ultra smooth surface to attach reflective material to. (And likely less expensive than polycarbonate) I've even used it to make a form for a project that used carbon fiber and epoxy. It gave a near mirror smooth finish (as long as there are no scratches in the plastic) and the epoxy does not adhere to the plastic (so no release agent was needed or used) nor would concrete adhere to the HDPE plastic. And yes, concrete does require some time to cure before applying glue, epoxy, paint or other similar treatments. A thin layer of clear paint or epoxy could coat polished heavy duty kitchen foil to help prevent dulling from oxidation.
Life is not that easy, dudes.
The initial forming idea will work. But you need an intermediate step.
Instead of pouring the concrete directly onto the mylar film, you need to coat the mylar with something else first. Let it dry. Then add the concrete.
The concrete needs something to bind with. Mylar is much too smooth.
My dad made flat textured concrete panels to put around the bottom of the house in a very similar process (an older house on brick pillars). They have lasted 25 years so far. He used newspaper in the plywood form he made so the concrete would not stick, and textured the exposed concrete after it was poured. The panel thickness was determined by the wood strips screwed onto the plywood. (They were about 1 inch/2.5cm thick)
I wish we had a decent stirling engine generator available on the market
good jod Sergjy! I made a mirtor 300cm x 200 cm with polymer film over white advertising plastic boarf
Yeah good luck surviving in winter.
Another possibility would be: instead of applying a film layer such as that aluminum foil, spray the concrete form with highly reflective paint (such as chrome paint from a automotive store). But your surface has to be very well polished to eliminate as much distortion as possible. What is the curvature you used for your concave concrete shape?
Cant you use a metal barrel cut in half?
@@extraclip I think it's possible. And I think a lot of people go that way. It all comes down to what's easier and more convenient to user. Personally, I plan to try both methods and see which one takes less time and is more convenient. I promise to post the results once I have the time to look into this.
Crome paint is really expensive, stainless steel is cheaper
How do you know what angle to bend the mirror to?
google parabola or parabolic calculator. The shape is parabolic, meaning the incoming rays reflect to a certain point. They call it a parabolic concentrator.
@@makingcookingfixing i don't know why I didn't think of that thankyou 👍
Use thin plastic sheet, plexi/wood/glassfiber/ect.. polish it to very smooth if not already smooth. Bend to preferred curvature, then spraypaint it with a spraycan of metal chrome paint. Done.
Edit. Use the reflective mirror chrome paint. Not the blurry type.
I recently saw there is a new type of mirror paint. It claimed to be the most reflective mirror-like paint available. It's probably more expensive than the mirror film.
My dad helped put together one of these solar plants.. they shipped it from Spain and wouldn't let too many American workers put it together.. now after it was all paid for and put together it just sits unused because it was put together improperly and doesn't work. Thanks Spain for your great work!
Use bondo or a finishing cement that is very fine on the surface to smooth it out further. And maybe some light sanding.
Very good innovation 🤩 Cheap and clever
Those fine lines in the mold turn out in the finished product. Since the lines are rounded protrusions it scatters the light, but with the lines running horizontal in your setup it causes light to scatter vertically off your mark. With the lines running vertical then it probably won't cause a problem missing your target mark, because it will scatter horizontally, and since your target mark is a horizontal pipe it should be ok maybe.
But better yet, don't use that piece of plastic with the protruded lines for the mold to make the panels, use something actually smooth, like a piece of sheet metal.
It looks like you used that corrugated plastic for the mold.
good stuff!! Very good concept. I like it a lot.
How did you construct the collection bar in front?
Gostei me interessei mais pode poderia ser em português seria melhor aqui no Brasil ia ter vários montando.......
Bom dia muito legal a sua invenção parece que o vapor vai tocar uma turminha que vai gerar energia gratuita através do Sol que aquece a tubulação foi o que eu entendi eu acho valeu 👍
thank you, your videos are always quite thought provoking and interesting....you are an amazing thinker.
Interesting mirror. My only concern is the reinforcement by fibers togheter with a relatively short lifespan of the reflective metal coat, wich seems to be a bit of a waste for recyclability problems
Durability? Wind will corode that earth bump.
I use this method to boil water in order to purify it.
For that i use an old parabolic antenna with aluminum foil glued to the parabolic. Been using it for years!!!
This mirror film sheet is new for me. Can't find here it brasil.
👏👏👏👏👏👏
💚💛💙🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
I swear some of the ideas you post came to my mind also. It's clear that to capture sun you need the least a curved surface and something to support. Thin foil and dirt are the first cheapest things in mind.
Sergiy, have you considered using as mold the polystyrene packaging of parabolic computer screens.
It's really not hard to make something parabolic. That's not the challenge.
@@hippopotamus86 agreed. I just noticed these polystyrene pieces in the trash. ready for mylar. all sizes. from large TVs to PC screens
I liked the old version of the mirror more, but the water bottle positioning system shown here looks interesting.
The slipforming barrier used for this purpose is also an excellent idea
Heliostats
Para crear algo
Inicia con la idea
Luego dibuja calcula
Luego investigación muchísimo
Luego como prototipo pero con desperdicio gastando lo menos posible a escala que te permita obtener datos
Ya los datos te indicaran si es factible o no.
Este es mi método
No gasto mucho en prototipos porque puede que no funcionen y el gasto es recurso que puedo usar para muchos más prototipos
Cuando ya tengo algo viable entonces hago los cálculos para materiales más formales económicos que funcionen.
Se un científico de jardín
parte de ello es el administrar recursos, emociones tiempo etc.
Si eres formal desde el inicio no tendrás que volver a repetir lo que ya has hecho es solo de recoger datos.
Ya pasé por esto.
Un abrazo adelante. Suerte
Why don't open Urdu translation while more than 300 million people understand and speak 👈💁♂️💁♀️
будь мужнім,
залишатися в безпеці.
Slava Ukraini!
Слава Україні! 💙💛🇦🇺🇺🇦
Heróyam sláva!
Героям Cлава! 💙💛🇦🇺🇺🇦
From Australia.
thanks sergiy, fron spain
Get a sack of lawn-seeds and sow them on the back-side of the berm. Their root-network wil increase the berm´s resistance to rain and wind.
(But choose small and drought resistant grass ^^)
Thanks for joining the rest of us semicivilized folks in the West good sir hoping this finds you doing well and being Safe in Ukraine!? I'm sending Positive Vibrations and Positive Energy To You in Your Country and sending The Love And The Light Of Positive Thought to you sir?!
❤️🚨
Would love to see this attached to a model triple expansion engine making power
Good idea- this setup, assuming enough mirror precision, is ideal for an impulse steam generator.
Надіюсь що ви в безпеці. Думав як Україна переживе наступну зиму без газу. Згадав про ваші відео, думаю що це єдиний варянт для ретрофітів центрального опалення
Too low kids might walk front of reflector should be higher than a humanbeing
Sergey, I'm just wondering how you are doing inside the Ukraine, in the current "situation"? Hoping that you are as safe as possible, and maybe you can find lowhtech ways to eliminate Orcs....
Have you considered using ferro cement? It's an epoxy combination Portland cement. They use it mostly for gluing ceramic tile to concrete. It's super sticky, dries fast and concrete will stick to it. Use it as your first layer to afix your reflective material, the pour your concrete over it. Where did you purchase your thermal couple? Hopefully not Chinese stuff. They make the worst quality of almost anything they make. That's what happens when your motivation is cheap and not the pride of quality.
شكرا سيدي عن الشرح المفيد لصنع وجمع اشعة الشمس
ومنه الى طباخة
One of the disadvantage of concrete is sand, it will be more and more difficult to source years after years.
Yes, but here it is not a lot of quantity, like the quantity for a standard house used for a whole solar plant. And allong this you can do technical / houses mades of loadbearing strawbale, or rammed earth... The appropriate technology concept.....
Might I suggest maybe a very thin layer of clear resin over the surface of your mylar mirrors.
Or maybe not use mylar at all, but instead just use any of the various follows like yin, aluminum and such that can be derived from the vast stockpiles of recycled metals and repurposed into melting down and poured into very very thin sheets of metal(as in, use those recycled soda pop aluminum cans, and alcohol cans like beer, and/or ale, as well as maybe implicate the starting up of recycling and utilizing canned foods tin cans they get packaged in and sold. Plus there's numerous recyclable cars trucks, boats, yachts,aircraft carrier sized options of metals that can be brought to a mirror finish-without the dangers and mess of breaking like the very breakable glass version of mirrors(which in itself makes it seem rather nice so long as it's not a metal or metal surface that'll tarnish or corrode in the outdoor elements....
Just wanted to be helpful if not maybe at least directs anyone to come up with the perfect solution for this whole energy source conceptualized idea! 😎
Have you tried using PVA glue, i want to ask you have used polymer fiber as filling with concrete how was the experiment, Is it strong and flexible?
Beatiful. But then you still have to convert into electricity. Which commercially is done at 400° for a reason. I'd be curious at which cost you could produce 1 kWh.
There is a swiss company in Tessin which designed similar system with concrete structures. Mirror used mylar film and transparent film inflated over concrete structure. Heat conveying medium is superheated air. Storage medium is trenches filled with rocks, air pumped through them heat the rocks and store heat for the night.
Look it up. The technology exists and has been proven large scale for years. It's great you are reproducing independently but my point is that
As usual, it is not the tech or ideas that are missing, but funding and willingness to do large scale actual implementations.
Use mirrored aluminum plate 3mm and direct the solar heat toward a pipe filled with radiator fluid which feeds through a 4'x8' x4'block of sand. The sand can have flue pipes that carry hot air into your house or it can heat hot water pipes. Search sand battery finland. The sand can reach temps to 500 degrees and will hold the heat for months.
Reflective film that is intended to be installed on the outside of windows may last longer.
How about making a cylindrical form and then, after concrete has cured, cut the cylinder into multiple reflectors? Each reflector could be polished and sprayed with reflective paint as someone has suggested below.
"will win the competition vs thermal and nuclear power plants"
Last time I checked, the competition is made in 95% out of fossil fuel power plants...
Aprovechando los turnos del los motores se puede crear turbinas para aprovechar la fuerza vapor de este sistema !
Se puede crear pero con caudales pequeños de vapor para
Generar electricidad y agua caliente !?
La manguera negra es ideal se calienta muchísimo i esas laminas reflectantes en el mercado hay mucha por ejemplos carroceros de camiones la gastan para adornar camiones
Es solar pero mejor que las placas por qué no se rompe o es eterno las placas solares es más especial
También puedes colocas asesino chino como el de adornas motos en planchas de sin de tejados de granjas
For durability Use 40 Micron Aluminum Film/foil instead of 18-20 Micron Aluminum film.
Puedes hacer una con una bolsa inflable, un lado con papel aluminio como el que usas luego el tubo lo introduces en la bolsa y puedes gracias el reflejo del sol acomodando la forma de la bolsa cuidado con la condensación de humedad que produce vapor
Puedes juntar muchas botellas de agua de las grandes son plásticas y cilíndricas soportan más el sol
Would a glass mirror be a better job over all ? , If you were going to still use your concrete form as a backing,/ structure you could use quite a thing glass mirror ,
The berms could relatively easily be made mechanically, and vibrated or compressed , ( as could the concrete backing )
40,000,000,000 for an unsustainable energy source. Great way to waste more tax dollars. The ignorance runs deep.
40 billion + maintenance very little jobs and poor spann of life the enormous amount of mining (fkup land) and u call that cheap.R u insane?
u can use mosquito net for reinforcement. The ones used for doors and windows for bugs.
coat the concread with this "ruclips.net/video/atCtLsh4MBs/видео.html&ab_channel=TechInsider"
And use an over coating with liquid glass...
I would use aluminum foil from the kitchen -- it will bond better and last longer than plastic.
Aluminum foil comes in a heavy duty.
Maybe you should try to plant the concrete directly in the ground like a fence... no need for soil berm
I have noticed that shiny fish scales can harden on a surface and create a solar reflector. They were on my cutting board and I had to work hard to remove them. I plan to make a solar cooker with them next year...oh, and could aluminum foil last longer, even if it costs more initially?
Very good job!! Keep the momentum, and please give more performance data, than manufacturing!!
Congratulations on your creativity and your sharing!! I hope you can use mirror drones to spark fires on russian vehicles. Or cook its drivers. The base cannot be concrete though!
Really? 40 BILLION dollars? Don't you mean 40 MILLION dollars?
When you painted that white, was where you made your mistake. It should have been painted black .. black absorbs heat. Hope that helps. One day I intend to make a model of this and run it through a steam turbine.
Maybe if you finish concrete surface with PVA resin and sand it very fine before glue it'll get smooth and reflections may improve
Spray the concrete with cooking oil like Pam cooking spray. The mirror surface should adhere
Soon I will test your method and make a video about it. Let's make it work. Cheers from Brazil.
Привет земляк, в СССР была издана книга про солнечное отопление , там кстати указывалось о необходимости охлаждения ( термостабилизации ) зеркал . реалии таковы что за год два, то что содержится в атмосфере по воздействием уф и ик лучей намертво вварится п любую поверхность и произойдет диффузия. Либы мыть раз в неделю и тогда эффективность экономическая вообще провал. Ваше решение уникальное что можно сделать в ( Песочнице) и точная фокусировка просто может разрушить тепловую трубку, или придется . по опыту клей ПВА в первом слове зеркала даст отличный результат в плане геометрии и шероховатости. Если дольки апельсина нарезать чаще они будут устойчивые к перепадам температур и механически их проще делать. Весь вопрос в двигателестроение, которое может работать при низкой / высокой тепловой мощности. Удачи
Привет земляк, в СССР была издана книга про солнечное отопление , там кстати указывалось о необходимости охлаждения ( термостабилизации ) зеркал . реалии таковы что за год два, то что содержится в атмосфере по воздействием уф и ик лучей намертво вварится п любую поверхность и произойдет диффузия. Либы мыть раз в неделю и тогда эффективность экономическая вообще провал. Ваше решение уникальное что можно сделать в ( Песочнице) и точная фокусировка просто может разрушить тепловую трубку, или придется . по опыту клей ПВА в первом слове зеркала даст отличный результат в плане геометрии и шероховатости. Если дольки апельсина нарезать чаще они будут устойчивые к перепадам температур и механически их проще делать. Весь вопрос в двигателестроение, которое может работать при низкой / высокой тепловой мощности. Удачи