This video was beyond awesome !!!! I went to Troybilt and they wanted to sell me a gear box for $350 !!!! After watching this video, I found the parts I needed on Amazon for $71 thanks to this guy. I'm a 61 year old lady with very little mechanical experience but after watching his video, I got my parts and it took me 4 hours to replace the whole gear box assembly and she's running like new ! The whole operation went exactly like he showed and his little tips he shared along the way resonated with me when I got to those parts of the procedure. What an awesome teacher !!!!! This would have easily cost me over $500 if I had taken it to a repair shop !!!! Even though my snowblower looks brand new, I was actually considering junking it because of the cost of the parts and repair. You saved me a bundle and I feel like a snowblower genius thanks to this amazing video !!!!! GREAT JOB DAVIN !!!!! Love you !!!!! (wish you lived next door !)
Thank you! Your comment is exactly why I posted this video. I have learned much from RUclips over time and I wanted to give back. I am very happy it helped. Congrats on achieving "genius level"! 😁
These two videos are incredibly helpful. A few weeks ago, the first wet snowstorm here in the Northeast turned the brass gear in my aging 2410 into a washer. I found the part easily on Amazon, watched these videos from end-to-end twice, and was able to make the repairs without any issue. This could have been a painful and frustrating process, but every little crucial detail was captured here skillfully. And yes...reattaching the cable to the idler pulley was the hardest part. :-) I'm now ready for the next storm. A huge THANK YOU!
Amazing, this video has been up for nearly 10 years and it's still helping people! I just tore mine open and have the new gear coming in a couple of days. Thank you Davin!
Thanks so much for this series. My Troy-Bilt is a 5024, slightly different then the 2620 but pretty much the same mechanics, and I accidentally ground it's auger gear in heavy snow last winter. Your videos helped me immensely on taking the front auger off and fixing it myself, and they probably saved me a bundle of $$ too!
My auger blade bent on my storm 2410, this video has given me the confidence to fix it myself, I ordered the part $58 from MTD, that's who now owns "Troy Bilt". Thank God for You Tube, and guy'slike you helping people like me ... THANK YOU !
All I can say is thank you!! This very detailed video is THE reason I'll be able to clear the driveway when the snow hits again. I sincerely appreciate the time and effort you put into it. Cheers!
Just finished a repair on my Storm 2620 using this video. The clarity of the step-by-step process and video gave me the courage to try to fix it myself instead of bringing my machine to a shop (they were backed up at least three weeks). As it turned out, I had a small rock trapped between the impella and the housing. The grinding and eventual sparks were pretty drastic, but with the help of this video I took it apart and found the stone.. Thanks for the great info and video
Thanks for the second time! I used your video to fix my snowblower about 5 years ago. I was thinking about finally buying a new one this time but decided it was better to try the $20 part first. It only took me 30 minutes to get it apart this time instead of the 2-3 days it took last time.
Davin excellent video, everything went according to video EXCEPT. I switched the anger blades, had left on right and right on left.. Snow kept being pushed to the sides rather than to the middle to be " chompped" up by the impeller. I never gave it a thought but thanks to you're excellent video skills there were multiple scenes to get my self oriented. Big thanks
Thank You for sharing this video. I had a landscape rock get wedged behind the impeller. Thanks to your video I was able to split the unit, remove the auger assembly and get back up and running. Very much appreciated.
I had a different problem however, part 1 of this video is a great reference for separating the Troy Built machines and getting the auger out. Very helpful!
I must have watched @ 2:00 a dozen times trying to replicate how you took that cable off the idler. Ended getting so frustrated I just ground off about 1/8" from the open end of the hook with a Dremel and chain saw tooth round sharpening stone. Thanks for this video! Wish I was as nimble with my fingers as you are so I could do this "normally". Great video!!!! A great help with replacing an auger blade that got trashed on my Storm 3090. Love Troy Bilt! Their parts department is just wonderful. So much better than 3rd party pretenders out there that cost a LOT more $$$ and not nearly as fast with (free) shipping.
Thank you! If it's any consolation, it really fought me going back on. Probably took me 15 minutes to get it to cooperate. You taking a bit off should help. Hope all goes well with the machine! Thanks again for the kind words!
I struggled getting the cable off also. Putting it back on I folded the blower handlebars down to give me more slack on the cable -- it was much easier going back on.
Hi Davin, Thanks again for posting this. I had to remove my auger to get rusted shear pins out. Your video was very helpful - I really appreciated the quality and detail of your videography.
Great video! The gearbox went out on my 11-year old 2410 this week, so I have the gear and shaft on the way. I did the teardown tonight, to get the old grease and metal shavings cleaned out so I'm ready when the parts get here. It's a good idea to check the impeller bearing while all is torn apart. Mine was quite rough, so I ordered a new bearing tonight. I'll have to wait to re-assemble, but it beats a second teardown.
Thanks for the video. Everyone wanted me to take it in, the auger Axel snapped at the sheer pin, don't know why but you saved me $$$$ with this video!!!
Thanks for posting...this helped me replace the inner left auger blade on my Storm 2410 after a nasty run-in with unseen heavy gage wire kicked into my driveway from a plow...
Davin, Thanks for posting this. I took my 2620 apart last year because of a bent auger blade, and had a heck of a time separating the two halves of the machine. So, when I had to remove another bent blade last weekend, I cracked and removed one of the plastic spacers to get the gear box to separate. But I hadn't figured out how I was going to get it back together. Now that I see how easy it should be to remove the entire front assembly, my job will be much easier. And, yes, both blades bent because of heavy, wet snow. We have a short driveway, but are on a state road, so we get plowed in. I have to be careful when removing the plowed snow, and I was in a hurry. :)
Super nice presentation. Yes, I share everyone's disappoint with the quality of the Troy-Bilt. I've also had to rebuild the transmission. Oh well, it keeps my old brain cells active. Just so it gets me thru the winter before another problem pops up.
Great Job. You saved me a ton of work trying to figure out how to get this apart to replace a bent auger blade. Nice instructions, step by step. Thanks!!
I have a Storm 5024 (with manual chute) very well done video, with your help it was about a 2 1/2 hour job ( although i had the full auger already assembled one the bought). Thanks so much
Davin, Thanks very much for this video. I have a similar model where a rope got wrapped around the auger and dislodged it from the bearings. I was going to bring it in to get serviced. Thanks to finding your video, I was able to fix it myself and saved hundreds. A lot of videos skimp on steps or show too much of the "grunt work"... yours was perfect. Thanks again.
mtd sure makes some great quality stuff. my toro 7and 82426, 724, only have 40 plus hard seasons of use on them and the auger gears are original on all of them
Big difference in cutting grass compared to blowing wet snow. There is a allot stress on components especially when subject to chunks of ice or rocks. Something a grass mower might never see.
Thank you! My gearbox looks like the same one. I have a 20 tooth gear. Do you know where i can get the gasket for this and the bushing that goes on the end of the impeller shaft?
I would start here: www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts Put in the machine model number and then pick the year. You can then go through the diagrams to find the exact part number you need. After that, buy it direct from them, oy do some google searches for the part number to see who else might be selling it.
Great video. I can't seem to get the worm shaft out of the bushing. Tried a hammer but I am not sure how hard I can hit it. Any help would be appreciated!!
I would apply a bunch of penetrating oil (I like PB Blaster (amzn.to/3qFx6sL [affiliate link to Amazon]). You should be able to find it locally. I would also heat it up with a propane torch to see if that would give it the extra space to come off. If it is really stubborn, repeated cycles of heat and cool with penetrating oil should do it. You are just looking to get the part sort of hot and cause it to expand, not turn it cherry red. All that said, it shouldn't be on there that tight. Makes me wonder if water got to it and corroded it together. You may have to get new parts. Good luck!
Just found this video and I have an issue hopefully you can help with. My neighbor used my snowblower and it ended up running over a metal solar light / ornament that broke off a shear pin and bent one auger. I bent the auger back in place with a wrench as good as I can and replaced the shear pin. It works now but now the machine has a heavy vibration when the auger is in use and some sound that follows the rhythm of the vibration that makes the machine pretty loud. I watched it spin and confirmed nothing is hitting anywhere. Would replacing the bent auger fix this issue or do I need to replace the entire auger assembly? Maybe the bent auger is making it spin out of balance? I'm not sure but hopefully you can point me in the right direction. New auger assembly is almost 300bucks and replacement single auger $70. The item he ran over took a quarter sized bite out of the bent auger so it definitely faced some force.
Sounds like the shear pin didn't let go in time and you may have damaged the brass gear. Does the vibration you describe feel faster than the rotation of the auger? If so, it is most likely in the gear box and you are probably looking at a tear down like I did in this video. The only other thing would be to look at the second stage. Did the impeller get bent or otherwise damaged? If it swallowed up the light, it might have suffered damage when it hit the impeller. Best of luck!
Thank you so much for this! The step by step video made very easy to take things apart. Although my wife wasn't happy that I did it in our downstairs living room! haha Waiting for my parts and have a little more cleaning to do to the gear housing and I'll be on to part 2.
I don't have the tube any longer, but it was a cold weather grease I picked up at an auto parts store. You could also get the "official" grease by ordering it from Troy-Bilt/MTD
Hello, thanks a lot for this video. I have a 2410 that looks very similar. The impeller spins but the auger blades don't do anything. I am almost positive it is the gear box. Troy-bilt wants $321 for a new assembly. May I ask......how do you search parts knowing you are getting exactly what you need when I can't get anything other than the full assembly from Troy bilt.
You should be able to go to www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts#diagrams and pull up the diagrams for your specific model and year. You can get the individual part numbers and then search for them at places other than Troy-Built (if they are not selling them). I randomly chose the 2010 year of the Storm 2410 and it looks like they are selling each individual piece. Based on your description, you probably need the brass worm gear (part 917-04861), but I would take it apart and look for damage to the the impeller shaft or other parts before you order anything. Good luck!
@@DavinDesborough I was on the phone with tech support and they told me they couldn't tell me the individual parts inside the gear box. This was a great help, thanks again!
@KraytonMC1980 It's been good overall. I have a 300' driveway and it's held up to a lot of heavy snow falls. The only time it's really had trouble was with rain soaked snow, but that would give most machines trouble.
Davin, Thank you for this posting. Could you tell me approx. how much the kit & necessary parts would cost ($$), and what length of time (Hr.-Min.) it would take approx. for an experienced snowblower mechanic to start & finish the job. Thank you.
I purchased the rebuild kit (worm gear and shaft plus bushings, pins, etc) off ebay for something like $110. If you need all the same parts, it should be somewhere in the $100 to $150 range. If all you need is a new brass worm gear, it might be as low as $20 or $30. Of course you need grease too. I am going to guess a shop will charge 2-3 hours of labor. If you hustle and have everything at the ready, it is a two hour job. I hope that helps.
Davin, thanks for the video - nice job putting the video together. I was successfully able to repair my auger and this video convinced me to do it myself. Thanks again!
One other thing; When fixing the scrapes from the debris that bent the auger, I discovered that Testor's "Engine Red" model enamel paint is nearly a perfect match for Troy-Bilt Red. Seems to stand up to the snow, too; I used the machine today...
How can I find a part number of a rebuild kit for the storm 2410 model? The parts manual lists the whole gearbox as 918-04171C - But doesn't seem to identify a rebuild kit - particular interested in the seals, bushings, etc.
I was trying to get to a parts diagram on Troy-Built, but that was not working for some reason. I don't think you will find a kit, you will have to buy parts as needed. Just search google for "storm 2410 parts diagram" and you can find places like the following where you can buy whatever part you need by cross-referencing the diagram. www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/troy-bilt/31-snow-throwers/2012-models/31as62n2711-storm-2410-2012/auger-auger-housing
I have a Troy Bilt 8526 looks to have same gear box as you have shown. my manual indicates it has a grease fitting on gear box but I cannot locate it. How can I add grease in the gearbox without taking it apart?
If you also have a plug in the gearbox you can remove it and either force grease down the hole or try to fit a grease zerk. Short of that, you'll have to dissemble. Good luck!
Hi Davin: Although you posted this auger gear box fix over three years ago, I found it very useful in fixing my Troy Bilt 2410 by replacing my worm gear at the end of the season last winter. However, my snowblower will not throw snow. This is not a knock on your repair instructions. I just don't know what is now wrong. When I rotate the shaft (manually and disassembled), the auger blades do rotate. But when the unit is fully assembled, engine running and auger control lever engaged, the blades and impeller will not turn. I think I did the repair correctly as when I first tried to throw snow after the repair, it worked for about one or two minutes and then failed. I don't think I could have ruined the worm gear again. Any ideas? Thanks, David
I would remove the belt cover and look in there. I think that perhaps you hooked the belt up incorrectly or it fell off or something. The impeller is directly tied to the shaft and should spin regardless of the worm get condition. It just seems like no power is being transferred to the impeller shaft. Good luck!
Davin Desborough Thanks Davin. I will give this a try. I have it apart again but left the gear box intact for now. Upon reassembly, I will focus on the impeller belt, etc. Much appreciated. David
It sounds like the impeller is too far into the blower housing. Is this interfering with it's operation? It could be the bearing, but I would first check the bolt that holds the pulley to the impeller shaft (see 3:01 in the video). Perhaps it has worked loose allowing some travel in the assembly.
Davin Desborough Thanks Davin! I'll check that bolt, it stops the auger from working… what I've one is spray WD40 generously inside after I removed Ice with heat gun. This seems to alleviate the build up but it may be something else. I noticed the Auger Cable wasn't tight enough but it seems like its as tight as possible so that may be the issue. I may have to get a new cable. With the latest 2 feet of snow here in Boston I'm grateful for your advice.
steve tolan WD-40 might not be the best thing. It won't stay around long, or if it does, it can gum up over time (so I've heard). There is a spray called Sno-Jet (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JOZFWK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005JOZFWK&linkCode=as2&tag=wwwdesborougc-20&linkId=KSUCPAFFJSFYETP6) that is supposed to be the thing to get. I've not tried it myself. After adding paddles to my impeller (see my other videos), I have had no issues with clogging. I'm in southern NH, so I feel your pain. I have not had any icing issues on mine during all this snow removal. It must ultimately be too large a gap behind the impeller. Good luck chasing it down. Let me know how you make out of if you want to bounce any other questions off me.
Your very detailed video has inspired me to to replace an auger (same make and model as yours) myself rather than incurr a costly repair bill. Thank you. Full disclosure, I'm new at this. My first hurdle is getting the idler pulley off. Either I just don't have the strength required or there's a trick to it that I haven't figured out yet. Any suggestions?
I have the same snowblower that I bought 2 years ago from a friend that used it about a half dozen times tops. It worked pretty well for the first 2 seasons but this year I'm having issues. It doesn't want to throw snow and the auger seems to struggle. the motors starts on first pull and runs strong. I thought maybe it was a belt. The belt closest to the auger is very loose but seems to tighten up when engaged. but I thought maybe it's not tight enough. it is the original belt. my auger seems to be locked in. the only movement is in the blades. I did notice a burning rubber smell earlier this season when it wouldn't throw some heavy snow. Any help is appreciated. I too have a very large driveway and have put it through some good runs here in MI.
+Burbs Burning rubber smell... that means the belt was slipping for some reason. It it is too loose, or there is a lot of resistance in the auger assembly. I would separate the front and back and give things a once over. First, take a good look at the belt. You can then also check out the auger. If you pull back the brake, can you rotate things by hand (or perhaps with a wrench on the main pulley bolt: see 3:21). If it turns smoothly and without and concerning noises, I would put in a new belt and give it a go. If something feel or sounds wrong when turning the pulley, I would take it apart and lubricate everything. Hopefully it's just a stretched belt. Good luck!
+Davin Desborough Thanks for the reply. I took the cover off and noticed there was some residue that looked like it might be from the auger belt. I bought a new belt which I may put on tonight. we are supposed to get more snow so I will be able to test it.
The auger gearbox on mine must have water in it as I always need to put the heat gun to it to thaw it before running. Might try WD40 and grease to the small vent hole for a temp fix to get through the rest of the winter. What do think?
I take it that it won't turn at all until you heat it up? It does sound like water got in there. I don't think adding extra grease or WD-40 will help as you'll still have water in there. That said, more grease won't hurt anything and what you have in there now may be shot, so some fresh grease would be a good idea. I would absolutely split it open and clean it out ASAP. Good luck!
Greg Scott It was on ebay at the time, but I haven't seen one there in a while. Hopefully all you need is to clean it out and add new grease. If you are waiting for spring, I would take it apart and then assess if you need any parts.
Thanks for posting this 2 part video. My worm gear is history and I was planning on replacing it. However, I can’t seem to find the gear going to a couple of local snowblower dealers/repair centers. They can only order the entire unit. Any chance you can direct me to a company that sells the worm gear by itself?
If you go to www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts and look up your exact model, you can order from them, or search online for the part number and see if you can find a better deal. Good luck!
Sorry, but no. It was something I found on ebay and that was the only one. You can find all the parts individually, but I have not seen any other kits. Good luck and feel free to ask more questions if you have them.
I got a worm gear and a worm shaft from Amazon for $71, that did the trick ! I called Troyilt first to get the part #'s to make sure I ordered the correct parts. All good !
Thanks! You can look-up part numbers here: www.troybilt.com/equipment/ARIPartFinderView?catalogId=14102&langId=-1&storeId=10001#/s/TRB/2620/ Just click "Select Assembly" next to the correct model year, then click "Auger & Auger Housing" and you will see a diagram where you can identify the parts you need. Good luck!
I believe I lucked into a 1-off kit. I have never seen another. I know it is a bit of a pain, but I would recommend tearing it open, seeing what parts you need, and then searching Amazon, Troy-Bilt, etc to see who has them at a decent price. The Troy-Bilt parts diagrams are you friend for ensuring you have the latest part numbers (they are subject to change). www.troybilt.com/en_US/ari-partstream-host.html Good luck!
Great job and explanation. I couldn't help but feel a little bit sad, to see that they put the Troy-Bilt name on that. Used to be heavy duty equipment and that is just not. But, you did a great job and I'm sure will help lots of people.
Thank you. I share your opinion on the overall build quality. I purchased this at Lowes and have come to realize that the Troy-Bilt and John Deere equipment sold at big hardware stores tend to be lower end compared to what you can get at the actual dealers. Sure it may cost a bit less, but as always, you get what you pay for.
So, just to confirm, you have taken the bolts out of the side and removed the pully wheel from the back? If so, the shaft may be seized on the bearing. I would apply liberal amount of penetrating oil to it and let it sit for a day. Hopefully, after that, a couple whacks with a hammer would be enough to free it.
Pretty much everything that begins with "the old..." was more heavy duty :-) From what I understand, the brass gear serves as a lubricating element, rather than having steel on steel. Thanks for watching!
Not sure one exists. It was a bundle of parts I purchased on ebay. Other have asked this same question and I have never found such a kit when I've looked. I would recommend just going to www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts, looking up your exact model, and using the diagrams to find the parts you need. Order from them or look up the part numbers elsewhere to see if you can find a deal. Good luck!
I feel like there coulda been an easier way to replace the gearbox. Maybe a flange in the middle of the impeller shaft going to the gearbox would make life a lot easier
Yes, but that would add cost to the machine and you know they won't want to do that! While a little tedious, it isn't really that bad to take it apart like this. Thanks for watching!
I can only suppose it is designed that way to act as a planned breaking point in the case of something catastrophic. That or the softer metal makes it slide against the worm gear a bit easier. Anyway, thanks for watching!
@@DavinDesborough Generally, the auger shear pins are supposed to break, but you are correct from what I just read, "The most common worm gears are made with a brass wheel and a steel worm. This is because the brass wheel is typically easier to replace than the worm itself. The wheel is made out of brass because it is designed to be sacrificial." Apparently, if I read that article correctly, it also allows for looser tolerances and cheaper repairs. In the case of MTD, blowers, though, I've seen several where the whole gear case just exploded apart. And you aren't kidding about that seeing a lot of use, you wore out the skid shoes in only 3 years!
![How to Fix a Snowblower Auger Gear [Part 2]](/img/1.gif)
This video was beyond awesome !!!! I went to Troybilt and they wanted to sell me a gear box for $350 !!!! After watching this video, I found the parts I needed on Amazon for $71 thanks to this guy. I'm a 61 year old lady with very little mechanical experience but after watching his video, I got my parts and it took me 4 hours to replace the whole gear box assembly and she's running like new ! The whole operation went exactly like he showed and his little tips he shared along the way resonated with me when I got to those parts of the procedure. What an awesome teacher !!!!! This would have easily cost me over $500 if I had taken it to a repair shop !!!! Even though my snowblower looks brand new, I was actually considering junking it because of the cost of the parts and repair. You saved me a bundle and I feel like a snowblower genius thanks to this amazing video !!!!! GREAT JOB DAVIN !!!!! Love you !!!!! (wish you lived next door !)
Thank you! Your comment is exactly why I posted this video. I have learned much from RUclips over time and I wanted to give back. I am very happy it helped. Congrats on achieving "genius level"! 😁
These two videos are incredibly helpful. A few weeks ago, the first wet snowstorm here in the Northeast turned the brass gear in my aging 2410 into a washer. I found the part easily on Amazon, watched these videos from end-to-end twice, and was able to make the repairs without any issue. This could have been a painful and frustrating process, but every little crucial detail was captured here skillfully. And yes...reattaching the cable to the idler pulley was the hardest part. :-) I'm now ready for the next storm. A huge THANK YOU!
Awesome! Glad it helped. I am still trying to get rid of the last of the ice from these recent storms. It's been a mess.
Amazing, this video has been up for nearly 10 years and it's still helping people! I just tore mine open and have the new gear coming in a couple of days. Thank you Davin!
Glad it helped! I guess it goes to show these machines have not changed much, or last a long time. :-)
Thanks so much for this series. My Troy-Bilt is a 5024, slightly different then the 2620 but pretty much the same mechanics, and I accidentally ground it's auger gear in heavy snow last winter. Your videos helped me immensely on taking the front auger off and fixing it myself, and they probably saved me a bundle of $$ too!
Great to hear! Thanks for commenting. It is fun to hear when this has helped some one. Good luck this winter!
My auger blade bent on my storm 2410, this video has given me the confidence to fix it myself, I ordered the part $58 from MTD, that's who now owns "Troy Bilt". Thank God for You Tube, and guy'slike you helping people like me ... THANK YOU !
All I can say is thank you!! This very detailed video is THE reason I'll be able to clear the driveway when the snow hits again. I sincerely appreciate the time and effort you put into it. Cheers!
So glad it helped and hanks for the kind words. Have a fun throwing snow this year!
Great video, made the repair so clear and easy. Be sure to watch part 2 folks!
Just finished a repair on my Storm 2620 using this video. The clarity of the step-by-step process and video gave me the courage to try to fix it myself instead of bringing my machine to a shop (they were backed up at least three weeks).
As it turned out, I had a small rock trapped between the impella and the housing. The grinding and eventual sparks were pretty drastic, but with the help of this video I took it apart and found the stone.. Thanks for the great info and video
Awesome! The machines are really fairly simple once you get into it. Thanks for the feedback!
Opened it up, replaced the entire gearbox assembly, closed it back up, tested it all in less than an hour. Kudos for the video.
Great to hear. Hope it runs well this year!
Thanks for the second time! I used your video to fix my snowblower about 5 years ago. I was thinking about finally buying a new one this time but decided it was better to try the $20 part first. It only took me 30 minutes to get it apart this time instead of the 2-3 days it took last time.
Congrats! Here is to 5 more years of service!
Davin excellent video, everything went according to video EXCEPT. I switched the anger blades, had left on right and right on left.. Snow kept being pushed to the sides rather than to the middle to be " chompped" up by the impeller. I never gave it a thought but thanks to you're excellent video skills there were multiple scenes to get my self oriented. Big thanks
Thank You for sharing this video. I had a landscape rock get wedged behind the impeller. Thanks to your video I was able to split the unit, remove the auger assembly and get back up and running. Very much appreciated.
I have a Storm 3090XT, and while it is not identical, the well done video gave me the confidence to tackle it. Thanks so much.
Yes, they are all somewhat similar due to mass production. Glad I was able to help. Thanks for the compliment!
I had a different problem however, part 1 of this video is a great reference for separating the Troy Built machines and getting the auger out. Very helpful!
Thank you. Glad it helped!
Excellent video, Our snowblower runs like new! Thank you Davin!
Awesome! Glad it helped.
Great, I am glad it helped! I was inspired to try the fix in this video by watching other videos, so I'm glad I could "pay it forward".
I must have watched @ 2:00 a dozen times trying to replicate how you took that cable off the idler. Ended getting so frustrated I just ground off about 1/8" from the open end of the hook with a Dremel and chain saw tooth round sharpening stone. Thanks for this video! Wish I was as nimble with my fingers as you are so I could do this "normally". Great video!!!! A great help with replacing an auger blade that got trashed on my Storm 3090. Love Troy Bilt! Their parts department is just wonderful. So much better than 3rd party pretenders out there that cost a LOT more $$$ and not nearly as fast with (free) shipping.
Thank you! If it's any consolation, it really fought me going back on. Probably took me 15 minutes to get it to cooperate. You taking a bit off should help. Hope all goes well with the machine! Thanks again for the kind words!
I struggled getting the cable off also. Putting it back on I folded the blower handlebars down to give me more slack on the cable -- it was much easier going back on.
Hi Davin,
Thanks again for posting this. I had to remove my auger to get rusted shear pins out. Your video was very helpful - I really appreciated the quality and detail of your videography.
Thanks for the feedback! Good luck with the remainder of winter.
Great video!
The gearbox went out on my 11-year old 2410 this week, so I have the gear and shaft on the way.
I did the teardown tonight, to get the old grease and metal shavings cleaned out so I'm ready when the parts get here.
It's a good idea to check the impeller bearing while all is torn apart. Mine was quite rough, so I ordered a new bearing tonight. I'll have to wait to re-assemble, but it beats a second teardown.
Great video, saved me $100’s of dollars sending it to someone else to fix. Had to replace an auger and this Video was perfect. Thank you.
Great news! Thanks for leaving the comment as it is fun to hear when it has helped someone!
Thanks for the video. Everyone wanted me to take it in, the auger Axel snapped at the sheer pin, don't know why but you saved me $$$$ with this video!!!
+Chad Kruse Glad to hear that. Good luck with the repair! Thanks for commenting.
Thanks for posting...this helped me replace the inner left auger blade on my Storm 2410 after a nasty run-in with unseen heavy gage wire kicked into my driveway from a plow...
I had the EXACT SAME THING happen to me and this video was a big help too!
About to do the same. Thx for the vid!
Davin,
Thanks for posting this. I took my 2620 apart last year because of a bent auger blade, and had a heck of a time separating the two halves of the machine. So, when I had to remove another bent blade last weekend, I cracked and removed one of the plastic spacers to get the gear box to separate. But I hadn't figured out how I was going to get it back together. Now that I see how easy it should be to remove the entire front assembly, my job will be much easier.
And, yes, both blades bent because of heavy, wet snow. We have a short driveway, but are on a state road, so we get plowed in. I have to be careful when removing the plowed snow, and I was in a hurry. :)
Super nice presentation. Yes, I share everyone's disappoint with
the quality of the Troy-Bilt. I've also had to rebuild the transmission. Oh well, it keeps my old brain cells active. Just so it gets me thru the winter before another problem pops up.
+doverdave1945 If it is an interesting project, it's not all bad huh? Best of luck and thanks for watching!
Great Job. You saved me a ton of work trying to figure out how to get this apart to replace a bent auger blade. Nice instructions, step by step. Thanks!!
Glad it helped. Thanks for the comment!
This is so well shot. Also cuts right to what you need to know. Thank you for such a salient video! One of the best!
Thank you! Good luck in your repair if that is why you watched this!
I have a Storm 5024 (with manual chute) very well done video, with your help it was about a 2 1/2 hour job ( although i had the full auger already assembled one the bought). Thanks so much
Glad it helped. Good luck with the remainder of the winter!
Great step by step! Could not find ANY printed instructions. Made this a piece of cake!
Glad it helped! Enjoy the snow ;-)
Davin, Thanks very much for this video. I have a similar model where a rope got wrapped around the auger and dislodged it from the bearings. I was going to bring it in to get serviced. Thanks to finding your video, I was able to fix it myself and saved hundreds. A lot of videos skimp on steps or show too much of the "grunt work"... yours was perfect. Thanks again.
Eric Liszt Thanks for the feedback. Glad I was able to help!
I really appreciate this video..I've used it twice to fix a belt and auger. Thank you so much!
That's great! I am glad it helped. Thanks for the compliment!
mtd sure makes some great quality stuff. my toro 7and 82426, 724, only have 40 plus hard seasons of use on them and the auger gears are original on all of them
Big difference in cutting grass compared to blowing wet snow. There is a allot stress on components especially when subject to chunks of ice or rocks. Something a grass mower might never see.
Excellent video I did mine after only 5 hours of use. I replaced with the original design parts, not the cost reduced ones.
Thanks for the compliment! I hope you get more than 5 hours out of the new parts.
Thank you! My gearbox looks like the same one. I have a 20 tooth gear. Do you know where i can get the gasket for this and the bushing that goes on the end of the impeller shaft?
I would start here: www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts Put in the machine model number and then pick the year. You can then go through the diagrams to find the exact part number you need. After that, buy it direct from them, oy do some google searches for the part number to see who else might be selling it.
Great video. I can't seem to get the worm shaft out of the bushing. Tried a hammer but I am not sure how hard I can hit it. Any help would be appreciated!!
I would apply a bunch of penetrating oil (I like PB Blaster (amzn.to/3qFx6sL [affiliate link to Amazon]). You should be able to find it locally. I would also heat it up with a propane torch to see if that would give it the extra space to come off. If it is really stubborn, repeated cycles of heat and cool with penetrating oil should do it. You are just looking to get the part sort of hot and cause it to expand, not turn it cherry red. All that said, it shouldn't be on there that tight. Makes me wonder if water got to it and corroded it together. You may have to get new parts. Good luck!
Thank you very much for the video. Made what I thought was complicating very easy.
Glad to have helped! Good luck with the snow this winter!
@@DavinDesborough Thank you my friend. Stay safe.
Just found this video and I have an issue hopefully you can help with. My neighbor used my snowblower and it ended up running over a metal solar light / ornament that broke off a shear pin and bent one auger. I bent the auger back in place with a wrench as good as I can and replaced the shear pin. It works now but now the machine has a heavy vibration when the auger is in use and some sound that follows the rhythm of the vibration that makes the machine pretty loud. I watched it spin and confirmed nothing is hitting anywhere. Would replacing the bent auger fix this issue or do I need to replace the entire auger assembly? Maybe the bent auger is making it spin out of balance? I'm not sure but hopefully you can point me in the right direction. New auger assembly is almost 300bucks and replacement single auger $70. The item he ran over took a quarter sized bite out of the bent auger so it definitely faced some force.
Sounds like the shear pin didn't let go in time and you may have damaged the brass gear. Does the vibration you describe feel faster than the rotation of the auger? If so, it is most likely in the gear box and you are probably looking at a tear down like I did in this video.
The only other thing would be to look at the second stage. Did the impeller get bent or otherwise damaged? If it swallowed up the light, it might have suffered damage when it hit the impeller.
Best of luck!
@@DavinDesborough I will take a look at both of those things tomorrow. Thank you for the prompt response!
Thank you so much for this! The step by step video made very easy to take things apart. Although my wife wasn't happy that I did it in our downstairs living room! haha Waiting for my parts and have a little more cleaning to do to the gear housing and I'll be on to part 2.
Buy something nice for your wife with the savings! :-) Glad to have helped and good luck with the rest of the repair!
I don't have the tube any longer, but it was a cold weather grease I picked up at an auto parts store. You could also get the "official" grease by ordering it from Troy-Bilt/MTD
I had to replace a bent auger segment on my 2840, and this video was very helpful. Thanx! :)
Glad to have helped! It seems the various models are mostly the same, just different widths and HP.
Hello, thanks a lot for this video. I have a 2410 that looks very similar. The impeller spins but the auger blades don't do anything. I am almost positive it is the gear box. Troy-bilt wants $321 for a new assembly. May I ask......how do you search parts knowing you are getting exactly what you need when I can't get anything other than the full assembly from Troy bilt.
You should be able to go to www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts#diagrams and pull up the diagrams for your specific model and year. You can get the individual part numbers and then search for them at places other than Troy-Built (if they are not selling them). I randomly chose the 2010 year of the Storm 2410 and it looks like they are selling each individual piece. Based on your description, you probably need the brass worm gear (part 917-04861), but I would take it apart and look for damage to the the impeller shaft or other parts before you order anything. Good luck!
@@DavinDesborough Wow, thanks a lot for responding!!!
@@DavinDesborough I was on the phone with tech support and they told me they couldn't tell me the individual parts inside the gear box. This was a great help, thanks again!
@KraytonMC1980 It's been good overall. I have a 300' driveway and it's held up to a lot of heavy snow falls. The only time it's really had trouble was with rain soaked snow, but that would give most machines trouble.
Davin, Thank you for this posting. Could you tell me approx. how much the kit & necessary parts would cost ($$), and what length of time (Hr.-Min.) it would take approx. for an experienced snowblower mechanic to start & finish the job. Thank you.
I purchased the rebuild kit (worm gear and shaft plus bushings, pins, etc) off ebay for something like $110. If you need all the same parts, it should be somewhere in the $100 to $150 range. If all you need is a new brass worm gear, it might be as low as $20 or $30. Of course you need grease too. I am going to guess a shop will charge 2-3 hours of labor. If you hustle and have everything at the ready, it is a two hour job. I hope that helps.
This video and part 2 were a lot of help ty
Thank you. I am glad it helped!
Great video! Do you like this blower? Have good luck with it (other than the gear-'
-box) ?
What a truly helpful video! Well done and great explanations.
Thank you! Hope it's helpful to you.
Davin, thanks for the video - nice job putting the video together. I was successfully able to repair my auger and this video convinced me to do it myself. Thanks again!
Glad the video helped. Thanks for the comment!
One other thing; When fixing the scrapes from the debris that bent the auger, I discovered that Testor's "Engine Red" model enamel paint is nearly a perfect match for Troy-Bilt Red. Seems to stand up to the snow, too; I used the machine today...
You make great videos
My thrust collar was shot too. I made one from the old drive gear.
Great vid. Thanks for taking the time and sharing your knowledge.
If you are watching this because you have a repair to do, good luck! Thanks for the compliment.
How can I find a part number of a rebuild kit for the storm 2410 model? The parts manual lists the whole gearbox as 918-04171C - But doesn't seem to identify a rebuild kit - particular interested in the seals, bushings, etc.
I was trying to get to a parts diagram on Troy-Built, but that was not working for some reason. I don't think you will find a kit, you will have to buy parts as needed. Just search google for "storm 2410 parts diagram" and you can find places like the following where you can buy whatever part you need by cross-referencing the diagram. www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/troy-bilt/31-snow-throwers/2012-models/31as62n2711-storm-2410-2012/auger-auger-housing
Wonderful video - very helpful! I just replaced shaft and gear on mine. Thanks!
Thanks for watching and glad to have helped!
I have a Troy Bilt 8526 looks to have same gear box as you have shown. my manual indicates it has a grease fitting on gear box but I cannot locate it. How can I add grease in the gearbox without taking it apart?
If you also have a plug in the gearbox you can remove it and either force grease down the hole or try to fit a grease zerk. Short of that, you'll have to dissemble. Good luck!
Hi Davin: Although you posted this auger gear box fix over three years ago, I found it very useful in fixing my Troy Bilt 2410 by replacing my worm gear at the end of the season last winter. However, my snowblower will not throw snow. This is not a knock on your repair instructions. I just don't know what is now wrong. When I rotate the shaft (manually and disassembled), the auger blades do rotate. But when the unit is fully assembled, engine running and auger control lever engaged, the blades and impeller will not turn. I think I did the repair correctly as when I first tried to throw snow after the repair, it worked for about one or two minutes and then failed. I don't think I could have ruined the worm gear again. Any ideas? Thanks, David
I would remove the belt cover and look in there. I think that perhaps you hooked the belt up incorrectly or it fell off or something. The impeller is directly tied to the shaft and should spin regardless of the worm get condition. It just seems like no power is being transferred to the impeller shaft. Good luck!
Davin Desborough
Thanks Davin. I will give this a try. I have it apart again but left the gear box intact for now. Upon reassembly, I will focus on the impeller belt, etc. Much appreciated.
David
Hi Davin
I have Ice building up behind impeller each use… do you know is that a bearing issue, belt issue or what?
Thanks
It sounds like the impeller is too far into the blower housing. Is this interfering with it's operation? It could be the bearing, but I would first check the bolt that holds the pulley to the impeller shaft (see 3:01 in the video). Perhaps it has worked loose allowing some travel in the assembly.
Davin Desborough Thanks Davin!
I'll check that bolt, it stops the auger from working… what I've one is spray WD40 generously inside after I removed Ice with heat gun. This seems to alleviate the build up but it may be something else. I noticed the Auger Cable wasn't tight enough but it seems like its as tight as possible so that may be the issue. I may have to get a new cable.
With the latest 2 feet of snow here in Boston I'm grateful for your advice.
steve tolan WD-40 might not be the best thing. It won't stay around long, or if it does, it can gum up over time (so I've heard). There is a spray called Sno-Jet (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JOZFWK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005JOZFWK&linkCode=as2&tag=wwwdesborougc-20&linkId=KSUCPAFFJSFYETP6) that is supposed to be the thing to get. I've not tried it myself. After adding paddles to my impeller (see my other videos), I have had no issues with clogging.
I'm in southern NH, so I feel your pain. I have not had any icing issues on mine during all this snow removal. It must ultimately be too large a gap behind the impeller. Good luck chasing it down. Let me know how you make out of if you want to bounce any other questions off me.
Thanks that was just enough to get me up and running.
+Scifisteve1954 Glad to have helped!
Your very detailed video has inspired me to to replace an auger (same make and model as yours) myself rather than incurr a costly repair bill. Thank you. Full disclosure, I'm new at this. My first hurdle is getting the idler pulley off. Either I just don't have the strength required or there's a trick to it that I haven't figured out yet. Any suggestions?
Got it. I just didn't have the right angle. It should be smooth sailing from here -- or at least until it's time to put it back on.
+R. Wilt Good luck! Barring anything being corroded in place, the pulleys are the hardest part in my opinion. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the vid. It helped me get my auger out.
+rawouch Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
I have the same snowblower that I bought 2 years ago from a friend that used it about a half dozen times tops. It worked pretty well for the first 2 seasons but this year I'm having issues. It doesn't want to throw snow and the auger seems to struggle. the motors starts on first pull and runs strong. I thought maybe it was a belt. The belt closest to the auger is very loose but seems to tighten up when engaged. but I thought maybe it's not tight enough. it is the original belt. my auger seems to be locked in. the only movement is in the blades. I did notice a burning rubber smell earlier this season when it wouldn't throw some heavy snow. Any help is appreciated. I too have a very large driveway and have put it through some good runs here in MI.
+Burbs Burning rubber smell... that means the belt was slipping for some reason. It it is too loose, or there is a lot of resistance in the auger assembly. I would separate the front and back and give things a once over. First, take a good look at the belt. You can then also check out the auger. If you pull back the brake, can you rotate things by hand (or perhaps with a wrench on the main pulley bolt: see 3:21). If it turns smoothly and without and concerning noises, I would put in a new belt and give it a go. If something feel or sounds wrong when turning the pulley, I would take it apart and lubricate everything. Hopefully it's just a stretched belt. Good luck!
+Davin Desborough Thanks for the reply. I took the cover off and noticed there was some residue that looked like it might be from the auger belt. I bought a new belt which I may put on tonight. we are supposed to get more snow so I will be able to test it.
how do you pry the box apart?
The auger gearbox on mine must have water in it as I always need to put the heat gun to it to thaw it before running. Might try WD40 and grease to the small vent hole for a temp fix to get through the rest of the winter. What do think?
I take it that it won't turn at all until you heat it up? It does sound like water got in there. I don't think adding extra grease or WD-40 will help as you'll still have water in there. That said, more grease won't hurt anything and what you have in there now may be shot, so some fresh grease would be a good idea. I would absolutely split it open and clean it out ASAP. Good luck!
I'll need to wait for warmer weather, no garage, do you have a link for the repair kit you are using?
Greg Scott It was on ebay at the time, but I haven't seen one there in a while. Hopefully all you need is to clean it out and add new grease. If you are waiting for spring, I would take it apart and then assess if you need any parts.
Thanks so much for the help! You rule, made it an easy project.
You are welcome. Thanks for the compliment!
Thanks for posting this 2 part video. My worm gear is history and I was planning on replacing it. However, I can’t seem to find the gear going to a couple of local snowblower dealers/repair centers. They can only order the entire unit. Any chance you can direct me to a company that sells the worm gear by itself?
If you go to www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts and look up your exact model, you can order from them, or search online for the part number and see if you can find a better deal. Good luck!
*Look up your model then drill in to find the gear.
Thanks!!! I did that after I sent you the message. Found it. Surprised both the ships didn’t put in some extra effort. Oh well.
Finally getting around to this. Winter is near. What type of grease do i use for inside gear box?
I just used a random cold weather (low temp) grease I found at a parts store. Something like this should be fine: amzn.to/2yoQzk0 Good luck!
Davin Desborough thank you
GReat video. I would find it helpful if every time you used a socket or wrench you mentioned the size. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Thank you. Calling out the socket size is a good idea for next time.
Having similar issue. Thanks for posting. Do you a link for the kit you used to replace axle rod and gear?
Sorry, but no. It was something I found on ebay and that was the only one. You can find all the parts individually, but I have not seen any other kits. Good luck and feel free to ask more questions if you have them.
I got a worm gear and a worm shaft from Amazon for $71, that did the trick ! I called Troyilt first
to get the part #'s to make sure I ordered the correct parts. All good !
Thanks Davin!
Hope it helped!
@@DavinDesborough Extremely helpful! I never replaced my shave plate for ten years. Now I have a nice new auger housing. $$ Thanks again.
Jeez. It’s a new machine
Was that liquid grease in the gear box???
Thanks for this video
great video, many thanks
+rich gouette Thanks, I hope it helped!
great video what are the part numbers.
thank you
Thanks! You can look-up part numbers here:
www.troybilt.com/equipment/ARIPartFinderView?catalogId=14102&langId=-1&storeId=10001#/s/TRB/2620/
Just click "Select Assembly" next to the correct model year, then click "Auger & Auger Housing" and you will see a diagram where you can identify the parts you need. Good luck!
Thank you
I can't find a kit on amazon or eBay. Do you know where I can get one?
I believe I lucked into a 1-off kit. I have never seen another. I know it is a bit of a pain, but I would recommend tearing it open, seeing what parts you need, and then searching Amazon, Troy-Bilt, etc to see who has them at a decent price. The Troy-Bilt parts diagrams are you friend for ensuring you have the latest part numbers (they are subject to change). www.troybilt.com/en_US/ari-partstream-host.html
Good luck!
@@DavinDesborough Thank You and thanks for putting together an incredible video!
Thank you for your help!
My pleasure! I wish you good luck this winter. I have 14" I need to clear from our storm today!
Great job and explanation. I couldn't help but feel a little bit sad, to see that they put the Troy-Bilt name on that. Used to be heavy duty equipment and that is just not. But, you did a great job and I'm sure will help lots of people.
Thank you. I share your opinion on the overall build quality. I purchased this at Lowes and have come to realize that the Troy-Bilt and John Deere equipment sold at big hardware stores tend to be lower end compared to what you can get at the actual dealers. Sure it may cost a bit less, but as always, you get what you pay for.
I disassembled as instructed but the auger won’t come out no matter how hard I pull. Anyone have advice ?
So, just to confirm, you have taken the bolts out of the side and removed the pully wheel from the back? If so, the shaft may be seized on the bearing. I would apply liberal amount of penetrating oil to it and let it sit for a day. Hopefully, after that, a couple whacks with a hammer would be enough to free it.
@@DavinDesborough i was able to get it off - I needed to get a gear puller to separate the two pieces
the old ariens were so much more heavy duty. Thats pretty simple to get apart.
Pretty much everything that begins with "the old..." was more heavy duty :-)
From what I understand, the brass gear serves as a lubricating element, rather than having steel on steel. Thanks for watching!
What is the part number for the kit?
Not sure one exists. It was a bundle of parts I purchased on ebay. Other have asked this same question and I have never found such a kit when I've looked. I would recommend just going to www.troybilt.com/en_US/service-and-parts, looking up your exact model, and using the diagrams to find the parts you need. Order from them or look up the part numbers elsewhere to see if you can find a deal. Good luck!
I feel like there coulda been an easier way to replace the gearbox. Maybe a flange in the middle of the impeller shaft going to the gearbox would make life a lot easier
Yes, but that would add cost to the machine and you know they won't want to do that! While a little tedious, it isn't really that bad to take it apart like this. Thanks for watching!
Thanks!
Saved me a lot of time and money, thanks a lot!
@@jadejohnson3664 Glad it helped and thank you! You are the first person to ever leave a "tip"!
@@DavinDesborough You earned it!
Kit
Your shoes on the front are completely worn out. Your scrapper blade wore out quickly. Lol
why The F is the gear brass !???
I can only suppose it is designed that way to act as a planned breaking point in the case of something catastrophic. That or the softer metal makes it slide against the worm gear a bit easier.
Anyway, thanks for watching!
@@DavinDesborough Generally, the auger shear pins are supposed to break, but you are correct from what I just read, "The most common worm gears are made with a brass wheel and a steel worm. This is because the brass wheel is typically easier to replace than the worm itself. The wheel is made out of brass because it is designed to be sacrificial."
Apparently, if I read that article correctly, it also allows for looser tolerances and cheaper repairs. In the case of MTD, blowers, though, I've seen several where the whole gear case just exploded apart. And you aren't kidding about that seeing a lot of use, you wore out the skid shoes in only 3 years!