Well Done...having trouble balancing lifting the front wheel while the map switch is on cloudy off a drop on beta 200 RR, prob need more confidence...is it me that the bike doesn’t throttle wheelie easy?
Did you ever change the gearing? Even after my gearing change I agree you need to be in a decent spot in powerband of the 200 when dropping off or wheeling gaps at pace. It has caught me by surprise a couple times lol. I am getting used to dropping the clutch harder if I happen to be a gear high, but as you said in cloudy mode this is also not easy as the bike doesnt like to rev to the moon instantly in cloud mode. I guess this is one thing the 300 has on the 200 :D
Ok, everyone seems to be saying what you are saying about the back brake position. I’m 6’3”. I have a lot of leg to fold up when sitting. I find if the pedal is just a bit below the peg or level with it, before being activated, then its in a better position. Thoughts?
When sitting you should have to pick up your foot and move it to the rear brake when needed, such that your foot will not be touching the footpeg when braking. If you are doing this, you're probably in the optimal position, and I would say that as long as you dont find yourself having trouble reaching the rear brake at times that you probably just found what works for you. Does that make sense? I hear some taller folks run taller seats so they aren't so folded up on the bike, or run their pegs lower which I personally find somewhat hazardous lol.
@@DirtJunkie thanks for the tips on the ledges. They were good. But, you know, I might have to disagree a bit with you on the rear brake lever... I run my lever slightly higher than the foot peg, but not too high, I want to be able to dab at the brake and move the foot into position will minimal effort and lifting off the peg. I'm no means an expert, but I have been on a couple enduro riding courses, one was with fellow NZer Chris Birch. We discussed having a rear brake lever that even shorter in that the brake pedal is modified and moved toward the peg more. This allows easier engagement to the pedal without moving your foot as much or at all when you have smaller feet. Also This allows riders to keep their weight on the foot peg more in difficult downhill sections, giving them more brake control. Would love to see more videos. Even basic stuff. ie. Donut Turn, steep uphill climbs etc
Check out my 200 vs 300 video where I talk about some of the things I like about the 200. One thing I didn't mention much is the gearing, and I love the 200 with dialed in gearing for my purposes (down a tooth from stock on front sprocket, up 2 on rear). My main priority is for the bike to do hard enduro and obstacles well, and it does - but the drawback is you make compromises elsewhere to get it perfect for your purpose, where a bigger bore is a bit more versatile. It'd be hard to ever go back to a 300rr considering how well this thing handles, but if I went back to full-size chassis for a bit better versatility I'd give the 250rr a try. Also if you're really set on race edition for the KYB forks, the 200rr doesn't come in race trim yet.
Thanks! I'm really liking how the suspension feels on this bike. For the usual hard enduro trails I'm usually running clickers all out on any suspension anyway except for high speed comp. In this video and for the little jumps in the bacn yard I go around 5 clicks in from full soft on both ends, and 4 clicks in on rebound for the shock which seems to feel nice in the log matrix and going off kickers.
@@DirtJunkie Yea i saw that :) but how did you start? to start safely, dont want to start travel to the emergency room when i try a big log. I run a 4 stroke or should i swap to 2 stroke ?
@@EnduroPG 4 stroke can do it too as long as its modern, water cooled etc.. a great way to start is on a log about the size of your front wheel. This is a pretty safe setup, and if you really want to be cautious back the log up to a tabletop or something, basically no risk then.
You have a great way of explaining things.
Well Done...having trouble balancing lifting the front wheel while the map switch is on cloudy off a drop on beta 200 RR, prob need more confidence...is it me that the bike doesn’t throttle wheelie easy?
Did you ever change the gearing? Even after my gearing change I agree you need to be in a decent spot in powerband of the 200 when dropping off or wheeling gaps at pace. It has caught me by surprise a couple times lol. I am getting used to dropping the clutch harder if I happen to be a gear high, but as you said in cloudy mode this is also not easy as the bike doesnt like to rev to the moon instantly in cloud mode. I guess this is one thing the 300 has on the 200 :D
Ok, everyone seems to be saying what you are saying about the back brake position. I’m 6’3”. I have a lot of leg to fold up when sitting. I find if the pedal is just a bit below the peg or level with it, before being activated, then its in a better position. Thoughts?
When sitting you should have to pick up your foot and move it to the rear brake when needed, such that your foot will not be touching the footpeg when braking. If you are doing this, you're probably in the optimal position, and I would say that as long as you dont find yourself having trouble reaching the rear brake at times that you probably just found what works for you. Does that make sense? I hear some taller folks run taller seats so they aren't so folded up on the bike, or run their pegs lower which I personally find somewhat hazardous lol.
@@DirtJunkie thanks for the tips on the ledges. They were good. But, you know, I might have to disagree a bit with you on the rear brake lever... I run my lever slightly higher than the foot peg, but not too high, I want to be able to dab at the brake and move the foot into position will minimal effort and lifting off the peg. I'm no means an expert, but I have been on a couple enduro riding courses, one was with fellow NZer Chris Birch. We discussed having a rear brake lever that even shorter in that the brake pedal is modified and moved toward the peg more. This allows easier engagement to the pedal without moving your foot as much or at all when you have smaller feet. Also This allows riders to keep their weight on the foot peg more in difficult downhill sections, giving them more brake control. Would love to see more videos. Even basic stuff. ie. Donut Turn, steep uphill climbs etc
How are you liking the beta 200rr? Im looking into switching from a beta 350race edition to the 200rr .
Check out my 200 vs 300 video where I talk about some of the things I like about the 200. One thing I didn't mention much is the gearing, and I love the 200 with dialed in gearing for my purposes (down a tooth from stock on front sprocket, up 2 on rear). My main priority is for the bike to do hard enduro and obstacles well, and it does - but the drawback is you make compromises elsewhere to get it perfect for your purpose, where a bigger bore is a bit more versatile. It'd be hard to ever go back to a 300rr considering how well this thing handles, but if I went back to full-size chassis for a bit better versatility I'd give the 250rr a try. Also if you're really set on race edition for the KYB forks, the 200rr doesn't come in race trim yet.
Great video! Have you considered upgrading from the stock suspension? I normally see riders at your advanced level with aftermarket setups.
Thanks! I'm really liking how the suspension feels on this bike. For the usual hard enduro trails I'm usually running clickers all out on any suspension anyway except for high speed comp. In this video and for the little jumps in the bacn yard I go around 5 clicks in from full soft on both ends, and 4 clicks in on rebound for the shock which seems to feel nice in the log matrix and going off kickers.
You doing good how to videos still, can you make a more explained how to double blip for beginners :) On enduro bike
Hey, check out the video I did a couple years ago on the double blip.
@@DirtJunkie Yea i saw that :) but how did you start? to start safely, dont want to start
travel to the emergency room when i try a big log. I run a 4 stroke or should i swap to 2 stroke ?
@@EnduroPG 4 stroke can do it too as long as its modern, water cooled etc.. a great way to start is on a log about the size of your front wheel. This is a pretty safe setup, and if you really want to be cautious back the log up to a tabletop or something, basically no risk then.
Do you run handguards at all?
Rarely, usually because they always come off eventually and I'm lazy to keep up with them.