Rarely do I find one single video that shows you EVERYTHING you need to know, especially for a job that has as many steps/parts as this. Good job sir. Well done
Excellent video, and I love the way you touched up the paint at the end. One thing however I noticed is that the water intake screen was cracked up and in need of replacing. Other than that, I learned a lot about seal orientation. Thanks for the lessons.
this is a great video! I had bought a boat with the same engine on it that was "supposedly" in good condition (I didn't know better at the time), and your videos have helped tremendously. $80 for a seal kit (canada) and some rented tools is way better than several hundred (or more) to get someone else to do it. thank you so much!!!
Just before it got too cold in Canada, I decided to check the gear case oil in my '78 55Hp Johnson... this is a new motor to me (two summers) and had replaced the oil and drain seals at the start of the season. Thankfully I did check, as about 1/2 liter of water poured out of it, with the oil following that. That much water would have likely cracked the lower end unit over the next month or so in sub zero temps. Thus I went searching for how to replace oil seals in a 55hp Johnson and found your video. Thank you so much for the detailed, real-world view of how to fix this. I have the boat in my garage, and plan to re-seal the lower end this winter. I have the original service manual, but hope most of this video applies to my motor. Of particular interest is the other video you did showing what to look for when buying ebay tools. It's so easy to focus on the problem with the engine, and loose sight of the completeness of the tool.
Great video. What I like most is that it demonstrates the complexity of the process and the value of a good outboard mechanic, who has both the knowledge and experience to do it right the first time. Think I will call him later today.
this was one of the most informative videos I have ever watched,, you explained every part of it in great detail,, your camera shot's were very good as well,, not the usual shaky camera shot's that some people who clearly do not know how to use a good steady tripod,, and you end up getting very sea sick watching their videos!,, it was a long video,, but I was glued to it from start to finish,, I was thinking that some of the tools you used most people wont have,, so getting out oil seals can be done using a screw driver or a drift!,, using great care!,, thank you for over half an hour of wonderful educating entertainment,, now I know how to fix my gearbox seals if I need to do them,,
I was amazed at how easily you removed the large circlips to get access to the gears, and then how easily they went back on. Your step by step instructions were exceptionally thorough and complete. You were concise and to the point. Thank you sir for your effort in making this fine video. Sadly, I own an OMC 800 stringer outdrive, but this video will make working on it much less painful. Great job!
Great video, very informative. KEEP POSTING. Thank you, you are providing and excellent service during this time that people need stuff done and no one wants to work!!
Brandon I have the entire lower gear case stripped out all gears and bearings..my question was can I powder coat the lower unit once everything is stripped? just was worried about the excess of heat it will be enduring once in the oven for powder coating purposes. Thank you
Thanks alot Brandon. I have a 1975 85hp that i had to take out the drive shaft and everything out of the lower because there was an issue with the clutch dog detent spring and balls. But now that its fixed, this will help me assemble it.
Thanks for this usefull information. I recently bought an used Evenride 30 at our dutch marketplace whihc ment after a big mistake because of its technicialal state. Engine was complete worn out .Brought it to our local dealer Sirag Warns for a damage report and after 2 weeks and 2 days still waiting not any responce. So i desided to look for diys information and so i met your video. Probably i am getting an etec technischian with customer friendly service
I am a total amateur when it comes to boat motors but I have spent a career in a mechanical trade and rally appreciate this video. I would like to attempt this but i would have to pick up some special tools the extra long snap ring pliers, bearing pullers, etc. I also have to get up a bit of nerve to try it. I don't have that cool vice either and without that, that would make any attempt very very difficult.
Great video! Thank you !! Do you know if all these tools work for my 1980 85hp? I noticed you mentioned it will work for the 88hp I already bought the seals .
Have a question I have a Johnson 140 down by the intake where the water go in there's a little bitty hole there water is coming out of it is it supposed to do that
I know this video is 6 years old but do you know if that bearing housing below the water pump housing has to be removed to replace the water intake screens? I have a 1976 Evinrude 115hp two stroke v4 and the water intake screens are all mostly broken and I'd like to replace them.
Your vid was seriously helpful. Can another type of grease and sealing compound be used? they are not available on amazon, and I am in Canada, which always seems to make things more expensive and harder to find...
I Was replacing the water pump on a beautiful ‘87 Evinrude 15hp. I pulled the driveshaft straight up out of the lower unit. It is my understanding that the detention balls drop out. This looks like a very difficult thing to dissemble and and repair. Do you have any videos of this process.
hey fantastic vid tx. Just replaced the drive shaft - after re assembling in N the shaft made the rumbling sound. Watching this I see yours does as well (33:18) you start of in fwd (no sound), then click once (rumbles), then again into Rev (rumbles). so i guess they rumble in n too? disassembled it again but watching this i think its ok..
Awesome video! I just bought my first boat. Its a project boat so everything is trashed. The first thing I noticed was the lower unit was seized up. I was able to break it free by soaking the lower unit in rust remover for a hour. Now it’s time to do this. Thanks for the video.
you and I are kind of in the "same boat" Mine came with a 115 v4 evinrude, id tag unreadable since it is so old, but it's speculated is from 1996. Am trying to find the seals that will fit it's lower unit.
HELP! The seals I removed looked like this but when I order the part which is 0342787. The lip is big. And confusing which way they go. I forced together and the spring falls offs. Doesn’t make sense. I have a 97 Evinrude 90hp
84 johnnson 9.9 runs perfect wxcept that dam carrier bearinga have changed now. You just use the big rubber and the 1 plastic double lip seal. Then prop and i thought i had it fixed then i noticed oil in the pan a few days later. No water just oil. Which tells me its the prop shaft seal. If you could have showed how to replace the new carrier bearings 03060
Working on a 1989 88SPL redid the seals and when I went to check that everything was working noticed the driveshaft won't moving regardless of being in neutral or gear. There is slight play in it but doesn't continue after the slack is taken out, wondering what I did wrong?
As a fellow mechanic / Automotive, I want to thank you for your time and editing to make this video. I have made a few but they do take up time. I was told to also vacuum test my lower unit. Do you think that needs to be done or just the pressure test ?
Brandon awesome video it is helping alot. Quick question what is best method to clean the bearing assembly and when you repack the seals should I put grease on the bearings themselves as well
I just pulled mine apart 2008 115h.p v4 and noticed from your video that mine didnt have a snap ring right by the reverse gear.... Is this on all evinrudes?
great video.....expert work performed. I just did this on my 1999 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 including the bearing carrier seals but unfortunately still have water getting in :( I had grooves in my drive shaft where the bearings ride so I am guessing that is where my leak is. Also I cant remember if I installed the drive shaft bearing holder with hole pointing forward.....would that be a catastrophic failure for my bearings or would they still get lubed somehow?
Thanks for sharing, very informative. I think my shifter is sloppy, where it does not shift back into neutral from forward. I’ve followed procedure for shaft height, and think I need to replace the gear box. How do you troubleshoot that? Thanks Tim
I'm using very similar tool as yours to pull the bearing assy out (johnson 50hp 2stroke, 1997), but the darn bearring carrier is stuck pretty well inside. I'm about to to abandon this lower unit and buy another used one. Do you have any last suggestion?
Hello, my o-ring for the shift shaft seems to be smaller then the 1 in the kit 5006373. Is the kit o-ring correct? Thanks. And the kit came with 2 o-rings
Brandon thanks for all your videos. Do you have any on reassembly of all the gears and the headaches? Tips on pinion nut and proper way to tighten. My 1983 75-Johnson - 20"gear case, I found a bad forward gear and pinion ( due to the giant rock I ran over). Let me know if you have any info on good videos.
I have a 2000 90hp, I see mine has two retaining clips with bolts on the outside of the bearing carrier. Did I miss you taking them out, or are there two different carriers one that is secured by the two bolts and clips and one that is secured with the four bolts underneath?
Hi Brandon those guide pins are sold out everywhere, is the thread same as the one you used the tap to clean up? I'm going to need to get the all thread rod if this is going to get done in timely manner, any help would be appreciated on size spec of those guide pins for carrier bearing. Great vid btw👍
Use a tap a size bigger after you file the hole smooth then get an aluminum screw the same size and get an o ring or rubber washer to seal it.. before starting it flush the system out thoroughly with the same oil that normally goes in it until it runs withour shavings in it from the filing.. or you can buy a helicoil and they thread a new thread into the hole so no taps Needed there.
Gosh, I wish I had seen this before taking mine apart to change out the water pump. I had no idea the shifter rod screwed in and was activating the gear box by going up and down. Instead, I thought it simply went from side to side. It apparently was only being held in by one thread because it turned loose when I reinstalled the lower section. There is no way to get it in and out of gear now, so I am going to have to take it all apart again and screw in the rod. Problem is, I don't have a clue as how far to screw it in. There are no videos on how to do that. I may have to do it all the way in and adjust it later through the controls at the top. Great video. Just wish I had done better homework.
@@BrandonsGarage Thanks Brandon. I took a guess and screwed in 4 complete turns. It connected at the top OK and appears to do what it supposed to do without adjusting the linkage. That surprised me because it must have barely been connected when I removed the loser housing.
Hey I have everything cleaned up and when I was pulling out the seals of the bearing carrier I chipped the side of it. is that ok if I just put gasket sealing compound on it? I chipped the seal groove on the outside
How important is it to make sure the hole in drive shaft bearing housing to make sure it faces forward? Wouldn't it get lubricated in any orientation since oil will make its way all around it?
Eh, probably. But the hole makes sure sufficient oil makes it way into the rollers. I've seen them installed forward or backwards. If you have a manual I would give it a look to see which way yours gets installed.
Do you take on side jobs I have a 1978 85hp johnson seahorse v4, pumps water well, but oil leak in front of prop and water leaking at front where lower unit meets exhaust housing. I'm in PA and looking for someone that would do the rebuild.
@@BrandonsGarage Awesome thanks for the reply im having a hard time finding the waterpump on the list for a 1996 115 i see the other years just not the 96.
Hey Brandon do you have a video or any tips on inserting the prop shaft and pinion gear in the v6 150 Johnson? The detent linkage broke I got it installed with that spring and bearing. The service manual is pretty foggy on the install. Thanks and great videos!
Yikes.. Looks like u left an indentation left by the screwdriver on the aluminum seal area at 4:22. Probably wont leak but kinda hurt when i saw that...
Thanks for the video. I thought I was finished and now I can't get it to go into forward gear. It worked fine before I replaced the seals. Any suggestions on what I might have done wrong ? I am hoping I don't have to pull it apart.
Thanks Brandon. I messed with it a little more and realized I was not pulling hard enough on the shift rod. You really have to yank it to put it in forward. Now it seems to work fine. Thanks again for the video and your help.
The size and thread pitch is 1/4 - 28. Unfortunately, finding a threaded rod with 28 threads per inch is difficult. I just used a 1/4 - 20 threaded rod. I was able to get them in the hole about a half turn and that was enough to get the holes aligned for the first two bolts. The length is about 8 or 10 inches. You just need enough to be able to screw them out by hand once you get the first two bolts started.
I did want to ask in one of your videos you mentioned that you sandblast the outdrives. Can you do a video on how you repaint them? I have been told by one person to use Alodine and alumaprep than zinc chromate primer before paint and clear. Another person i read just goes Rustoleum Self Etching than paint and clear. Would like to know how you do it.
Hi Brandon. Your video is excelent. I have a question: I have to change the forward gear on my 200ho evinrude, 1977 2 stroke. I have the new FG, is it imperative to have a matched pinion?
@@MikeSmith-nu9wt Turns out they are still available... Which begs the question; Who is better at this, the arm chair mechanic, or the professional? Guide pins are 0383175 and double-lip prop shaft seal installer / driveshaft seal installer is 0341439. both available on boats.net seal kit is here: www.everythingoutboards.com/brp/gearcase/5006373.html
thank you sir , i had a friend attempt to rebuild it, he replaced all bearings , i got it back leaking oil.. he apparently didnt see your video and its not right ...oops , when i tighten the driveshaft carrier 4 bolts , the prop wont turn now ..shimmed wrong in assuming ? now im trying to figure it out
Wouldn't you know it , I got that evenrude lower unit fixed , then the motor blew up , so I picked up a johnson ( can't find any model numbers on it ) I heard you can look it up through someone with the numbers off the soft plug , it's G4348265 but that website won't let me look up anything , brp something web site , can anyone tell me what it is , some loper motor , but I don't have no model number to order parts. Are the crossfire's ( 88 evinrude spl ) and the loper ( johnson , 90 hp I think ) lower units interchangeable ? I tried but it hits the lower right cover before it shifts into forward ? Shifter rod is a little different I didn't swap them ( that might be my problem ? ) I'm gonna take it off and count the turns , mark it like you did , and see what I figure out ..
Hi Brandon, Will the 2 seal installers that you used here for the drive shaft seals & the carrier bearing seals in this video work on a 1977 Johnson 70hp Thanks Joe
1973 Johnson 65 hp. You don't happen to have a lower seal kit recommendation eh? I've only been finding individual parts at this point. Model 65ESL73R. The internet has not helped me at all. I feel useless
Hey, do you know the size of the O-Ring for the upper bearing housing. I am from Germany so I need it in mm. I measured 54.6 x 2.6 is that correct or is the thickness 3.0 millimeters? Greetings from Germany from Malte.
I think they swapped the lower unit to a different one. Part number is 332140. The seals are the ones you are using. I’m trying just ti find the seals not the kit
what about the " bolts" in the user carrier berring when you pulled it out, i saw threaded bolts at the end, I never saw you loosen them can you or did you loosen them 1st ?
So those 4 screws that hold the bearing carrier all have their own O rings.. if u look at the underside of the bolt heads they have a recessed part that fits an o ring.. otherwise it will definately leak.. now if you got new screws than they might come already on there but if your reusing old screws than gotta buy new o rings which for me were 4$ each!!! For an o ring that wouldnt fit on my pinky.. rediculous.. but all my old ones were ripped up... just an fyi.. but very helpful video.. other than all of evinrudes overpriced lubes and speciality tools which i didnr use a one of em., had a ford torsion spring removal tool that worked for the puller.. other than that i used regular old twistin and beatin tools and used red high temp gasket rtv and marine greases.. good deal tho..
Very Informative tutorial... I've followed through every detail of the clip until I saw caterpillar pass by on the floor at the bottom right corner @ 37:27 😅
This has to be by far the best instructional video on how to perform this task. Thank you for sharing!
Rarely do I find one single video that shows you EVERYTHING you need to know, especially for a job that has as many steps/parts as this. Good job sir. Well done
Insanely helpful! You are the best I've ever seen at step by step for outboards.
Excellent video Mr. BG. Filming & Commentary is very helpful !! All the best from Oslo Norway.
Excellent video, and I love the way you touched up the paint at the end. One thing however I noticed is that the water intake screen was cracked up and in need of replacing. Other than that, I learned a lot about seal orientation. Thanks for the lessons.
Just bought a used boat you just gave me the confidence to rebuild the lower end thanks alot!!
this is a great video! I had bought a boat with the same engine on it that was "supposedly" in good condition (I didn't know better at the time), and your videos have helped tremendously. $80 for a seal kit (canada) and some rented tools is way better than several hundred (or more) to get someone else to do it.
thank you so much!!!
Just before it got too cold in Canada, I decided to check the gear case oil in my '78 55Hp Johnson... this is a new motor to me (two summers) and had replaced the oil and drain seals at the start of the season. Thankfully I did check, as about 1/2 liter of water poured out of it, with the oil following that. That much water would have likely cracked the lower end unit over the next month or so in sub zero temps. Thus I went searching for how to replace oil seals in a 55hp Johnson and found your video. Thank you so much for the detailed, real-world view of how to fix this. I have the boat in my garage, and plan to re-seal the lower end this winter. I have the original service manual, but hope most of this video applies to my motor. Of particular interest is the other video you did showing what to look for when buying ebay tools. It's so easy to focus on the problem with the engine, and loose sight of the completeness of the tool.
Great video. What I like most is that it demonstrates the complexity of the process and the value of a good outboard mechanic, who has both the knowledge and experience to do it right the first time. Think I will call him later today.
this was one of the most informative videos I have ever watched,, you explained every part of it in great detail,, your camera shot's were very good as well,, not the usual shaky camera shot's that some people who clearly do not know how to use a good steady tripod,, and you end up getting very sea sick watching their videos!,, it was a long video,, but I was glued to it from start to finish,, I was thinking that some of the tools you used most people wont have,, so getting out oil seals can be done using a screw driver or a drift!,, using great care!,, thank you for over half an hour of wonderful educating entertainment,, now I know how to fix my gearbox seals if I need to do them,,
One of the best videos on how to work on lower unit very well done and explained your videos sure teach you a lot
Excellent video, it’s a huge help! I’m getting desperate in finding those guide pins, do you know where I can find them?
I was amazed at how easily you removed the large circlips to get access to the gears, and then how easily they went back on. Your step by step instructions were exceptionally thorough and complete. You were concise and to the point. Thank you sir for your effort in making this fine video. Sadly, I own an OMC 800 stringer outdrive, but this video will make working on it much less painful. Great job!
Why thank you good sir.
This video reminds me of watching my husband struggle with an old OMC 800 inboard/outboard in a 1976 Carribean.
Thank you!!! Working on a BRP 90 hp. You sir are a scholar and gentleman.
Super easy job with the right tools. You are a great teacher 👍
Thank you I wish you were here in GA I need a lower gear box installed on my 120 Mercury Force outboard and there's no one here that can do it.
My book for 1975 shows 4 rubber o rings on barrier carry bearing assembly should I use them and how tight should bolts be?
Great video, very informative. KEEP POSTING. Thank you, you are providing and excellent service during this time that people need stuff done and no one wants to work!!
i have a 1977 85 hp johnson outboard motor. where can i get the parts i need to do all that you did in this video?
I'll be looking for the same parts for my 90 horsepower you have a part number or you don't find it yet
@@javiermontes3777 sierra 18-2692 seal kit , applian water pump kit 439140 318284 777807 i dont think these will work on yours.
@@fredblankenship2319 thank you for your first response man I'll be trying to see
Brandon I have the entire lower gear case stripped out all gears and bearings..my question was can I powder coat the lower unit once everything is stripped? just was worried about the excess of heat it will be enduring once in the oven for powder coating purposes. Thank you
Thanks alot Brandon. I have a 1975 85hp that i had to take out the drive shaft and everything out of the lower because there was an issue with the clutch dog detent spring and balls. But now that its fixed, this will help me assemble it.
Thanks for this usefull information. I recently bought an used Evenride 30 at our dutch marketplace whihc ment after a big mistake because of its technicialal state. Engine was complete worn out .Brought it to our local dealer Sirag Warns for a damage report and after 2 weeks and 2 days still waiting not any responce. So i desided to look for diys information and so i met your video. Probably i am getting an etec technischian with customer friendly service
I am a total amateur when it comes to boat motors but I have spent a career in a mechanical trade and rally appreciate this video. I would like to attempt this but i would have to pick up some special tools the extra long snap ring pliers, bearing pullers, etc. I also have to get up a bit of nerve to try it. I don't have that cool vice either and without that, that would make any attempt very very difficult.
Great video.. will this work for 1983 evinrude 90hp?
Great video, good to see a real mechanic doing the work.
I need some help. I changed the seal and the o ring as you have done. Still leaking from the o ring.
Can you do just the prop shaft seal without removing the lower unit?
Great video! Thank you !! Do you know if all these tools work for my 1980 85hp? I noticed you mentioned it will work for the 88hp I already bought the seals .
Have a question I have a Johnson 140 down by the intake where the water go in there's a little bitty hole there water is coming out of it is it supposed to do that
I know this video is 6 years old but do you know if that bearing housing below the water pump housing has to be removed to replace the water intake screens? I have a 1976 Evinrude 115hp two stroke v4 and the water intake screens are all mostly broken and I'd like to replace them.
Your vid was seriously helpful. Can another type of grease and sealing compound be used? they are not available on amazon, and I am in Canada, which always seems to make things more expensive and harder to find...
try marineengine.com
they ship everywhere.
I Was replacing the water pump on a beautiful ‘87 Evinrude 15hp. I pulled the driveshaft straight up out of the lower unit. It is my understanding that the detention balls drop out.
This looks like a very difficult thing to dissemble and and repair. Do you have any videos of this process.
No detend on the driveshaft, just put it back in and youre done.
Excellent video very very informative... Makes me want to screw up mines LOL... Really great job!
hey fantastic vid tx. Just replaced the drive shaft - after re assembling in N the shaft made the rumbling sound. Watching this I see yours does as well (33:18) you start of in fwd (no sound), then click once (rumbles), then again into Rev (rumbles). so i guess they rumble in n too? disassembled it again but watching this i think its ok..
Awesome video! I just bought my first boat. Its a project boat so everything is trashed. The first thing I noticed was the lower unit was seized up. I was able to break it free by soaking the lower unit in rust remover for a hour. Now it’s time to do this. Thanks for the video.
you and I are kind of in the "same boat" Mine came with a 115 v4 evinrude, id tag unreadable since it is so old, but it's speculated is from 1996. Am trying to find the seals that will fit it's lower unit.
Silver XGT www.marineengine.com should have anything you need once you find the year.
What is the pn for the bearing carier tool remover?
HELP! The seals I removed looked like this but when I order the part which is 0342787. The lip is big. And confusing which way they go. I forced together and the spring falls offs. Doesn’t make sense. I have a 97 Evinrude 90hp
Can that o ring let water get in lower unit
Thank you , I wonder the shift rod you marked is there no tightening any more?
Thanks for the video. I'll be doing this on my Evinrude 120 this spring
84 johnnson 9.9 runs perfect wxcept that dam carrier bearinga have changed now. You just use the big rubber and the 1 plastic double lip seal. Then prop and i thought i had it fixed then i noticed oil in the pan a few days later. No water just oil. Which tells me its the prop shaft seal. If you could have showed how to replace the new carrier bearings 03060
It was the best video I ever seen it explains everything very good job I loved it. you nailed it
Working on a 1989 88SPL redid the seals and when I went to check that everything was working noticed the driveshaft won't moving regardless of being in neutral or gear. There is slight play in it but doesn't continue after the slack is taken out, wondering what I did wrong?
With a new water pump and seals it get so tight you cant turn it by hand.
Did you remove the bearing carrier to change the seals?
@@BrandonsGarage ok, and yes I Did remove the bearing carrier to change the seals.
As a fellow mechanic / Automotive, I want to thank you for your time and editing to make this video. I have made a few but they do take up time. I was told to also vacuum test my lower unit. Do you think that needs to be done or just the pressure test ?
@Badwolf6466 well, youre supposed to, but I didn't have a vacuum pump at the time; and usually if it holds pressure it'll test okay under vacuum too.
@@BrandonsGarage Thanks for the fast reply.
Love your videos, easy to follow explained so well ,keep up good work
What is the shift shift hight on a 110 v4 Johnson 1989
Brandon awesome video it is helping alot. Quick question what is best method to clean the bearing assembly and when you repack the seals should I put grease on the bearings themselves as well
I just pulled mine apart 2008 115h.p v4 and noticed from your video that mine didnt have a snap ring right by the reverse gear.... Is this on all evinrudes?
Did you say the guide pin thread pitch/diameter? Is it the same as the puller threads you cleaned out?
What size diameter and thread pitch are those guide pins again?
Thank you for the great video!! I’ve been following this step by step. It’s super helpful!! I really appreciate it !
great video.....expert work performed. I just did this on my 1999 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 including the bearing carrier seals but unfortunately still have water getting in :( I had grooves in my drive shaft where the bearings ride so I am guessing that is where my leak is. Also I cant remember if I installed the drive shaft bearing holder with hole pointing forward.....would that be a catastrophic failure for my bearings or would they still get lubed somehow?
Thanks for sharing, very informative. I think my shifter is sloppy, where it does not shift back into neutral from forward. I’ve followed procedure for shaft height, and think I need to replace the gear box. How do you troubleshoot that? Thanks Tim
I'm using very similar tool as yours to pull the bearing assy out (johnson 50hp 2stroke, 1997), but the darn bearring carrier is stuck pretty well inside. I'm about to to abandon this lower unit and buy another used one. Do you have any last suggestion?
Hello, my o-ring for the shift shaft seems to be smaller then the 1 in the kit 5006373. Is the kit o-ring correct? Thanks. And the kit came with 2 o-rings
Brandon thanks for all your videos. Do you have any on reassembly of all the gears and the headaches? Tips on pinion nut and proper way to tighten. My 1983 75-Johnson - 20"gear case, I found a bad forward gear and pinion ( due to the giant rock I ran over). Let me know if you have any info on good videos.
You'll need a shimming fixture; That tool is just shy of $300
With that said, I should be able to find you some instructions.
I did not change drive rod bearing, do I still need shimming fixture? If so is this due to new pinion gear?
Technically yes.
It shims between the pinion and driveshaft bearing/seal. Ill find the instructions tonight, should help.
I have a 2000 90hp, I see mine has two retaining clips with bolts on the outside of the bearing carrier. Did I miss you taking them out, or are there two different carriers one that is secured by the two bolts and clips and one that is secured with the four bolts underneath?
Hi Brandon those guide pins are sold out everywhere, is the thread same as the one you used the tap to clean up? I'm going to need to get the all thread rod if this is going to get done in timely manner, any help would be appreciated on size spec of those guide pins for carrier bearing. Great vid btw👍
Its a fine thread, probably a 28tpi.
The screw you pull out, use those to size it up and get and all thread; itll work jusy as well.
Do you have a video of How to repair a stripped drain plug threaded hole?
Use a tap a size bigger after you file the hole smooth then get an aluminum screw the same size and get an o ring or rubber washer to seal it.. before starting it flush the system out thoroughly with the same oil that normally goes in it until it runs withour shavings in it from the filing.. or you can buy a helicoil and they thread a new thread into the hole so no taps Needed there.
Gosh, I wish I had seen this before taking mine apart to change out the water pump. I had no idea the shifter rod screwed in and was activating the gear box by going up and down. Instead, I thought it simply went from side to side. It apparently was only being held in by one thread because it turned loose when I reinstalled the lower section. There is no way to get it in and out of gear now, so I am going to have to take it all apart again and screw in the rod. Problem is, I don't have a clue as how far to screw it in. There are no videos on how to do that. I may have to do it all the way in and adjust it later through the controls at the top. Great video. Just wish I had done better homework.
What is your engines model number? Ill look up how far it needs to go in.
@@BrandonsGarage Thanks Brandon. I took a guess and screwed in 4 complete turns. It connected at the top OK and appears to do what it supposed to do without adjusting the linkage. That surprised me because it must have barely been connected when I removed the loser housing.
Hey I have everything cleaned up and when I was pulling out the seals of the bearing carrier I chipped the side of it. is that ok if I just put gasket sealing compound on it? I chipped the seal groove on the outside
Why is there also a vacuum tester? Pressure good enough?
Great video. I will be doing this tomorrow on my 04' 90hp Johnson.
How important is it to make sure the hole in drive shaft bearing housing to make sure it faces forward? Wouldn't it get lubricated in any orientation since oil will make its way all around it?
Eh, probably.
But the hole makes sure sufficient oil makes it way into the rollers.
I've seen them installed forward or backwards. If you have a manual I would give it a look to see which way yours gets installed.
SUPER DUPER HELPFUL !!! thanks....and thank you for no annoying music
Do you take on side jobs I have a 1978 85hp johnson seahorse v4, pumps water well, but oil leak in front of prop and water leaking at front where lower unit meets exhaust housing. I'm in PA and looking for someone that would do the rebuild.
I'm in CA though
Will those parts work for my 96 115 johnson oceanpro???? Thank you! great video
www.everythingoutboards.com/brp/gearcase/5006373.html
Yes sir, 1985-2001; 88 / 90 / 110 / 115
@@BrandonsGarage Awesome thanks for the reply im having a hard time finding the waterpump on the list for a 1996 115 i see the other years just not the 96.
What length are those 5/16 screws?
You're a talented mechanic.
Hey Brandon do you have a video or any tips on inserting the prop shaft and pinion gear in the v6 150 Johnson? The detent linkage broke I got it installed with that spring and bearing. The service manual is pretty foggy on the install. Thanks and great videos!
Sorry, I don't have any videos on it. I haven't rebuilt a v4 case after starting my channel.
You still rock!
Please open all bages
Yikes.. Looks like u left an indentation left by the screwdriver on the aluminum seal area at 4:22. Probably wont leak but kinda hurt when i saw that...
Yeah I don't think so; I think it was just dirt/old gasket.
At 33:55 you get a better look and I don't see anything.
Great job! Very easy to follow you’re instructions!
Thanx man
Thanks for the video. I thought I was finished and now I can't get it to go into forward gear. It worked fine before I replaced the seals. Any suggestions on what I might have done wrong ? I am hoping I don't have to pull it apart.
turning the driveshaft while trying to shift into forward?
adjust the shift rod correctly?
Thanks Brandon. I messed with it a little more and realized I was not pulling hard enough on the shift rod. You really have to yank it to put it in forward. Now it seems to work fine. Thanks again for the video and your help.
First of all, YOU ROCK BRANDON!!!
Secondly, do you happen to know the length and thread pitch of your guide pins you used? Thanx!!
The size and thread pitch is 1/4 - 28. Unfortunately, finding a threaded rod with 28 threads per inch is difficult. I just used a 1/4 - 20 threaded rod. I was able to get them in the hole about a half turn and that was enough to get the holes aligned for the first two bolts. The length is about 8 or 10 inches. You just need enough to be able to screw them out by hand once you get the first two bolts started.
The gasket sealing compound is no longer available. Any suggestions on alternatives?
I'm sure it is,
Where are you looking?
@@BrandonsGarage Amazon the link you provided. Also I have been having a hard time with those gear case
If I could send a picture of what I’m working with. I am not using the evinrude puller I am using harbor freight bolt type wheel puller set
I did want to ask in one of your videos you mentioned that you sandblast the outdrives. Can you do a video on how you repaint them?
I have been told by one person to use Alodine and alumaprep than zinc chromate primer before paint and clear. Another person i read just goes Rustoleum Self Etching than paint and clear. Would like to know how you do it.
I do a powerhead here-
ruclips.net/video/VKGH6GCHKDU/видео.html
Thank you so much. Funny enough i was watching that video as soon as i got the notification of your reply. You earned a sub for sure. Thank you.
So after the carrier bearing was removed that was all optional?
yes
I cannot for the life of me get the shift shaft back in lol
I lied it's in but my mark is nowhere to be found uh oh
And I cant get it to shift
Any insight would be a blessing
Hi Brandon. Your video is excelent. I have a question: I have to change the forward gear on my 200ho evinrude, 1977 2 stroke. I have the new FG, is it imperative to have a matched pinion?
where do i get the alignment pins and the seal installers my dealer says there not available no more
well, what year & HP do you have?
(or give me the model number, and I can look it up)
e88msledc 1996 evinrude 88 hp spl
@@MikeSmith-nu9wt Turns out they are still available... Which begs the question; Who is better at this, the arm chair mechanic, or the professional?
Guide pins are 0383175 and double-lip prop shaft seal installer / driveshaft seal installer is 0341439.
both available on boats.net
seal kit is here:
www.everythingoutboards.com/brp/gearcase/5006373.html
thank you sir , i had a friend attempt to rebuild it, he replaced all bearings , i got it back leaking oil.. he apparently didnt see your video and its not right ...oops , when i tighten the driveshaft carrier 4 bolts , the prop wont turn now ..shimmed wrong in assuming ? now im trying to figure it out
Wouldn't you know it , I got that evenrude lower unit fixed , then the motor blew up , so I picked up a johnson ( can't find any model numbers on it ) I heard you can look it up through someone with the numbers off the soft plug , it's
G4348265 but that website won't let me look up anything , brp something web site , can anyone tell me what it is , some loper motor , but I don't have no model number to order parts. Are the crossfire's ( 88 evinrude spl ) and the loper ( johnson , 90 hp I think ) lower units interchangeable ? I tried but it hits the lower right cover before it shifts into forward ? Shifter rod is a little different I didn't swap them ( that might be my problem ? ) I'm gonna take it off and count the turns , mark it like you did , and see what I figure out ..
Hi Brandon, Will the 2 seal installers that you used here for the drive shaft seals & the carrier bearing seals in this video work on a 1977 Johnson 70hp Thanks Joe
No, you need:
everythingoutboards.com/brp/tools/314640.html
everythingoutboards.com/brp/tools/909525.html
Thanks for the quick reply & the info much appreciated
1973 Johnson 65 hp. You don't happen to have a lower seal kit recommendation eh? I've only been finding individual parts at this point. Model 65ESL73R. The internet has not helped me at all. I feel useless
Yeah I have the same engine, and the same problem. For whatever reason they don't make kits for 1969-1977 3 cylinder engines.
@@BrandonsGarage ahhh, thanks! I'll spend the extra time buying everything separate I suppose.
Seems impossible to find a seal installer as well...
I have a 1991 OMC sea Drive 1.6 what's the torque specifications on the needle bearing it's leaking oil
What and where do i get guide pins?
Yeah, those are another problem, no longer available. Sometimes you'll find a set on ebay
Do you have video for Force 85, change clucht dog, or this engine have same structure?
Hey, do you know the size of the O-Ring for the upper bearing housing. I am from Germany so I need it in mm. I measured 54.6 x 2.6 is that correct or is the thickness 3.0 millimeters? Greetings from Germany from Malte.
Where do you get those pressure testers?
I think they swapped the lower unit to a different one. Part number is 332140. The seals are the ones you are using. I’m trying just ti find the seals not the kit
Sir, you work I exceptional. Thank you very much. 🎉
what about the " bolts" in the user carrier berring when you pulled it out, i saw threaded bolts at the end, I never saw you loosen them can you or did you loosen them 1st ?
Yeah, that starts at 4:27 ends at 4:50
very helpful. Looking for a omc 90hp v4. don't like my e90dslseb with 89 hrs. don't want to be a slave to emm/diagnostics
What did you use for guide pins? Something make shift? Or are they a specific part that you bought? Where did you get them?
Bought them, check em out:
www.everythingoutboards.com/brp/tools/383175.html
Are they model specific or pretty generic?
Im working on an 88 or 89 evinrude 200. Gotta pull the carrier.
Nice bench stand for lowers.. did you make it?
your the man!!! thank you so much for putting this out there
Where can I get the $16 puller?
Great video. Thanks Brandon.
So those 4 screws that hold the bearing carrier all have their own O rings.. if u look at the underside of the bolt heads they have a recessed part that fits an o ring.. otherwise it will definately leak.. now if you got new screws than they might come already on there but if your reusing old screws than gotta buy new o rings which for me were 4$ each!!! For an o ring that wouldnt fit on my pinky.. rediculous.. but all my old ones were ripped up... just an fyi.. but very helpful video.. other than all of evinrudes overpriced lubes and speciality tools which i didnr use a one of em., had a ford torsion spring removal tool that worked for the puller.. other than that i used regular old twistin and beatin tools and used red high temp gasket rtv and marine greases.. good deal tho..
Where did you find these small o rings?
Very Informative tutorial...
I've followed through every detail of the clip until I saw caterpillar pass by on the floor at the bottom right corner @ 37:27 😅
Ha! Saw that huh?
I had to pause video so I could go raid that thing down.
Outstanding!! Might tackle this one soon.
Great job teaching