1961-62 Thunderbird Upper Ball Joint Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
- In this video, I remove and replace the two upper ball joints on a 1962 Thunderbird. I also address the problem of the cotter key holes on the ball joint stud not lining up with the castle nut. Not good.
Hey Guys, just watched this again and I see I made this with the Movavi video editor program. What a horrible program. I had nothing but trouble with it and ended up getting my money back from them. The program glitched until it became unusable. Also, notice how every time the scene changes, it cuts off the audio so it cuts off the end of my sentences. So I went back to Windows Movie Maker. Thanks for watching.
Another awesome video Nick. Makes me want to go work on my 62!!
Hey, get out there and fix something. Dont forget to turn on the radio and grab a beer.
Nick
Great job of editing
You trimmed down a 45 to 60 minute repair to a 10 minute video filled with great tops and hints. Keep up the good work
Hey Craig, it was probably longer than that. Everybody says nobody wants to watch a video that is longer than 10 minutes. I almost made it. Thanks.
Thanks for the upload 👍
Thanks Rusty.
Definately originally rivitted. I only just changed a rivited 1 in my 61. It was OG and well worn!
Yeah, thats what I figured. My memory is going south. Thanks.
Thanks for another video Nick! A great tip about the cotter pin/castle nut installation. I will say I guess I'm in the minority and actually like the longer length videos. This one in all honesty had so many edits and changes between scenes it was almost dizzying. Your other videos aren't like this, even at the longer length and minimal editing they are easy to condense and enjoyable to watch.👍
Hey TBird, duly noted. I will definitely keep that in mind next time. Thanks for the input.
Hello Nick. Surprised the ball joints didn't come loose. Someone did not want to go get a washer. Lazy, or didn't care.
George B
Hey George, a little bit of both I suspect. Thanks.
Hey Nick,
Interesting how previous mechanics failed to get the castle nuts/cotter pins properly installed. You'd think that would be a no-brainer. Doesn't instill a whole lot of confidence in a person regarding the competence of some mechanics when you encounter issues like this! Yep, the ball joints were riveted into place originally. Thanks for insightful tips!
Hey Scott, the cotter pin issue is a lot more common than youd think. I deal with it all the time. It is certainly the sign of a very lazy mechanic at the very least. Thanks.
Excellent video. Good reminder about castle nuts and cotter pins lining up.
Have you done a video on replacing LOWER ball joints on 4th gen T-Birds? I don't recall seeing one. I've done the upper ball joints on my car and I think I should probably do the lower ball joints, too. Probably shoulda done them while I was doing the uppers, but oh well. From what I understand, the lowers will be more involved because the original rivets will need to be drilled out I think. I don't feel confident doing the job with just the shop manual as a guide. OTOH, maybe I should just drive my car out to you and have you do it. You could look at some other issues, too.
Hey TheCanine2, yes I can help you with that. I don't think I've done a video on the lower ball joints. I don't remember now since I've got so many videos. I use an air chisel to remove the rivets. The lower arm is much easier to do than the upper since you don't have to remove the spring to do the lowers. Thanks.
Nick,
Whoever installed those useless cotter pins for castle nuts was not a genuine mechanic. He just thought he was one. Good catch.
Regards,
John
Its a two fold problem, the reproduction ball joints have a longer shaft and the cotter pin hole is located in the wrong place. And then the mechanic doesnt have enough sense to identify the problem or bother to fix the problem. Probably a chevy mechanic!
Nick,
Before installing them on the car, ball joints can be turned until the cotter pin hole faces a more convenient position. Throw on a few flat washers followed by the nut, then tighten the nut until the hole moves to where you want it. Easy-peasy, my friend.
Regards,
John
Yes, that is the cure.
Great video. 😂
Thank you.
hey Nick i'm getting ready to rebuild the steering and Front suspension on my 66, i ordered a rare parts steering idler bearing kit 20474 to replace the bushing. Have you ever installed one of these, It came with no instructions and rare parts Could not help me with the layout, they didn't seem to know anything about it really.
Hey Jason, Ive never installed one of those, Ive always used the bushing. Rare Parts is an excellent place to buy front suspension parts from and I think its odd that they could not help you with the installation. I dont know what to tell you because I am unfamiliar with the bearing kit and Ive never seen one. As a matter of fact, I didnt even know that a bearing kit was available. Did you look on RUclips for a video about it? Thats what I would do. Sorry I couldnt help you. Thanks.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 ok thank you, i didnt know there was one either i was getting ready to order the bushing and found this listed on there website, is was only $10 more then the bushing and is greaseable so i figured why not, i looked on youtube but found nothing so far. ill figure it out i hope
Hi Nick, quick question unrelated to this video. I have a ‘66 with AC. Whenever I accelerate air conditioned fades from the vents and ambient air is felt coming from underneath the dash. When I am in an accelerated cruise mode, air conditioner works as it should. Any thoughts as to what is causing this issue?
Hey Douglas, yes I know exactly what is causing that. The vacuum system that controls the heater and AC runs off the engine and is dependent on engine vacuum. When you accelerate, engine vacuum, manifold vacuum, drops off and anything that is dependent on that vacuum starts to fail. All Thunderbirds do this, even those where I have fully rebuilt the vacuum systems and they are working 100%. It is the nature of the vacuum system. Same thing happens to those cars that have vacuum wiper motors such as the 1958-60 Thunderbirds. When you accelerate, the wipers fail. It sucks and to design vacuum dependent wipers was pretty stupid. There is nothing you can do about it except to maybe install an electric vacuum pump, one that keeps working no matter how much manifold vacuum you have. Its the nature of the beast. Good luck.
Thanks Nick. I have first hand experience with the windshield wipers “fading” under acceleration. My late mothers ‘57 has always done that. (she purchased the car new in 1958 and yes, we still have it). Many thanks for your channel and assistance in keeping my daily driver on the road.
Hi Nick, been awhile since you've posted a thunderbird video.Hope you're doing well.
Hey Steven, yes my Windows Movie Maker program messed up and I cant use it. Ive been busy and unable to resolve the problem. I guess I have to uninstall and reinstall the program. I have a good timing chain video I want to post so Ill do that once I resolve that issue. Thanks.
Ok good to hear your still making videos