Hi I am trying to understand how this bit setter works. this is my take on what I saw you do. First of all at some point you installed a .125 em which did not rally have anything to do with the file you were going to cut right, is was there so that you could initiate the bit setter and then set your XZY with that bit using the touch probe. Right then jog and reset the Z off the top of your board then reset theZ then load the cut file that bit will move to the front and you put in the first bit in the file and click continue it will then move and take a reading on that bit an move back to the center where you will put dust collection on and start router and hit continue. and do the same thing with the next toolpath. So now can you tell me how it all works if the bit that is loaded to begin with is the bit for the first and all you used was the probe to set theZYX do you just load then what do you do. Thanks Jeff Peters
I know that these steps can sometimes seem pretty complicated. I’ll try to simplify a little. When using carbide motion, there are only 1/4” and 1/8” end mills that you can set your xyz axis with. In my case, the last bit I used was 1/8” so it was already in the machine. Now if my first bit was going to be one of those, I would have swapped before I powered up the Shapeoko. But in this case, my first bit was a V-bit. I cannot probe xyz with that. So I went ahead and set all my zeros. As soon as you power on and connect the Shapeoko it takes the first reading from the bitsetter. So now you can use that bit to set your zeros. (Yes I did check zero in the middle with the paper but this is optional). You can load your gcode at any point. I’m just in the habit of loading it after I zero everything. But now I have to load my V-bit before I can start. So you press load tool and the machine will come to the front, you load the tool, then it takes the reading for that tool and automatically adjusts your zero. (Again here you can use the paper/ completely optional). Now your file and bit is loaded, your machine is zeroed, add your dust collector and hit start. The only reason I use the paper is to be more accurate when I’m using v-bits. Yes, when using carbide motion when you press start, it will check the bitsetter one more time. (No way around this in carbide motion). Really hope this helps. Please keep asking, I’ll keep trying to help.
Chris I have just watch this video again and I have a question the the first bit you had in the router when you initialize the machine did exactly what.also when you used the touch probe and set your x and y and then went to the middle oh the board to set theZ could you have sipped the probe ang gone to the center of the board and set the XYZ all at the same time using the paper Jeff Peters
Know this is 2 years old. I’m new to VCarve and using the shapeoko. My router will do all that is asked until it’s time to carve. It won’t go to the piece to carve Can you help?
Let’s start with the basics. Are you using mm or inch? What post processor are you using when you save your toolpaths in Vcarve? I have not used Carbide Motion in almost two years. Been exclusively using CNCJS so I have no idea if they have done any updates.
Not sure if you know this but after probing it returns the bit to the proper xy position but purposely keeps the bit in a +z position. Check the screen after probing and you'll see it says x and y are at zero but z is at 6mm if I recall correctly. The system records the proper z height however its designed to keep the bit off the work surface after probing.
hopefully you will see this. I have done your directions but the file isnt showing in the drop down for post processors. I went back in to MyPost directory and it shows there. Thanks for any help you can give.
Thank you very much. I get this tool error, “… both use tool number 1 but the geometry of the tools are different” it took me a while to figured it out lol. Make sure to number your tool.
I try to install the TC PP into Aspire and get the error No closing quote on line On line 990 of file ".../..." and it crashes Aspire. Oh well thanks anyways, it was worth a try
Like others, Thanks for taking time to pass on your experiences. There are so many things to learn nice to have someone to shorten the learning journey. So I’ve subscribed.
@@PricklyGuyCreations Thanks, (this is bad) I had to change the # bit per toolpaths ex same bit #1541, #1542 #1543. I don't want to but it keeps giving me an error
I might be questioning too soon, but what's the point of having a Bit Setter and a Bit Zero if you still need to use the paper method to set your actual zero? I've been saving to buy one or the other (can't really see why I'd spend so much for both) if I still need to set my Z zero manually :(
You don’t “have” to. The touch probe is spot on with the x and y zero. The Z is usually close, but if your work surface or the material you are cutting is not perfectly straight, it’s not uncommon to have some discrepancies especially if you get that extremely “straight” wood from Home Depot. I use the paper method during the initial setup to get things as close as possible. After that is set, the bitsetter is great for tool changes. No longer need to re-verify zero.
TNT Creations TR hey thanks for the reply! Given you got experience with both, I’m interested in buying one... I am not sure which one I should get tho... my designs do contain tool changes, so I’m leaning towards the bit setter... your advise would be greatly appreciated!
Agustin Gutierrez The order I got mine was: Touch probe, then bitsetter. BUT, if you can handle the initial zeros without a probe, I would definitely say the bitsetter is worth getting first. Also, there is no reason you have to buy carbide 3D’s touch probe. There are lots of them out there that work. If you are using Carbide Motion, then you are kinda stuck with there probe. If you are using cncjs or another sender, you can use whatever you want.
@@PricklyGuyCreations You can also make your own similar to bitsetter if you have a 3D printer, or even with a piece of wood, and just two cables and one push botton ( 5 USD or less on amazon ). Ideas on Thingiverse.
Watching this again great video. question . did you make your own file for your waste board or is it found some where else also when you cut it did you prop it up off the machine bed to keep the drilling from getting in to it. Jeff
Yes. I used one off the internet first, but the holes were not how I wanted them, so I modified and made my own. First one was from Myers wood shop. Before he quit Shapeoko and went to Onefinity. I put a piece of scrap under it to cut out.
Jeff, here is a link to my file. This is a two sided file in VCarve. You don't have to use the other side. It is where my Logo is, and some mounting holes. I use Kregg screws in the mounting holes to attach to the Shapeoko, and 1/4" T-Nuts from Amazon for the wasteboard. There is also a ruler toolpath. This really helps me, but is unnecessary. If you use it, I would run it seperate, and start it wherever you want your XY zero to be. Hope this helps. drive.google.com/file/d/1ywOiPs_9Cw4HZVtv0kjMwmBMwMiLD93i/view?usp=sharing
Hi there! If I try to use this in Aspire, I'm getting two errors: 1) No closing quote found on line 822 of file *location* 2) Unknown statement found in file on line 6 of file Line 6 is and honestly, I can't code to save my life. Would you mind looking into this? Thanks!
Great video, I was debating whether to get the bit setter but run VCarve Pro so I wasn’t sure if it would work. What version of CRbide Motion are you running and where did you get the guides and hold downs? I really like those. Do you like them?
If you download the latest version of carbide motion from their site, you’ll be fine. I think it’s 417. I’m running 428. I made the guides. I didn’t like the ones that were out there so I’ve been messing around with Fusion360. Still working on the hold downs. “Work in progress”. I love the guides. Keeps me lined up and doesn’t interfere with touch probe.
Thanks for the video. I have a quick question about tool#'s. Do you have to rename each bit a different #? it looks like all of mine are tool#1 by default in vcarve
Yes. When you setup the bit, there is a place for the tool number at the bottom. Most are 1,2,3 etc. I use Amana and Carbide3D, so I just number them the actual bit number. There is a way to put it in the header, but this way is MUCH easier.
@@PricklyGuyCreations I use Amana and just imported the tool library and never named a tool number. I keep getting a error "tool number the same but different diameter".. Had me confused,I thought I wasn't installing the pp correct
I have a thingiverse page where you can download the files for free. If you know someone with a 3D printer, they don’t take much to print. I’ll post the links here in a bit.
Here is the link for the edge and corner guides: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4158115 Here is the link for the clamps. Remember to download the new version: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4170326
Do you now have regular Shapeoko_inch and mm in My_PostP folder along with Shapeoko_inch_TC.pp & mm_TC? Do you get rid of the non _TC files and do you just select _TC ones even when no tool change is needed? I don't remember if I originally had Grbl_inch.PP previously. I swear that's what I was using before and not the Shapeoko_inch specifically. Thanks fellow Texan
I use the Grbl_mm_TC.PP. I just created my own and renamed it. I added a pause so my spindle can speed up. (When I finally use my spindle). I can add the non-TC files back in, I just don’t use them anymore.
Watched this video again and have a question. Do you find that the touch probe does not set real goo on the wood and will move while it is probing . mine when I put it on the corner the weight of the wire hanging over the front of the machine will cause it to move I feel like I have to hold it in place. or does that not matter. Jeff
I have been looking for a video like this forever!!! One question....how do you zero out Z after probing? You showed everything on the video of how that looks in the computer except that and that is what I've been having the most issues with. Great, informative video. Thanks!!
I manually move to the center portion of the piece and use the Z+6 command in the rapid move section. Then I can select 1mm increments and slowly edge down to the piece. When I get close then I change to the smaller increments and edge down until the bit slightly touches the paper. At that point I select the zero z button. That’s it! This is not “required”, but a good practice especially at the start. It really helps if you are carving fine details with a vbit.
I don’t really use Carbide Create so I can’t really say too much. I found it basic for what I was trying to do. I think it’s a great free program, I was just looking for more.
victor cisneros I use VCarve Pro. It’s a little expensive but I love it. Eventually I will update to Aspire (Both products are from Vectric). Aspire has more 3D capabilities. I’m just getting started with the 3D STL files. VCarve can cut 3D models, it just cannot create them. VCarve Pro does everything I need right now.
This is the first video that I have see. Looks like great information but I couldn't hear you. I don't know if it is just my computer and phone (I tried watching with both) but the music drowns out the narrative. I'm not being negative in any way....just a observation on my end.
Thanks for the video. I see so many people are very happy with their results, this makes me feel even more stupid. I think I did everything as you instructed but my "Save Toolpath" button is still grayed out due to the error code saying I have different end mill sizes. I do see the "tool change" in my PP, but still not allowing me to save, help meeeeeeeeee
Hey great video you need to do videos for Carbide Create finial someone that did an in depth video that show"s how it works. I do have a couple of questions when it is done with a tool path and needs to change bits does it move to the front center by it's self or did you do something. That was a little unclear. Also could you elaborate some on what you did when you moved to the center and touched off there about changing to mm's. Also did you make your own fixtures for your spoil board, is so do you sell them . I like the way mount and can be moved. Well I might as well keep asking. Do you have a file for your spoil board I also have a XXL that I could buy. I just Subscribed Jeff Peters
If you are using the new tool change post processor, it will move to the from on its own. Carbide motion will prompt you’re to turn off spindle, then to change tools. When I was checking the Z height in the middle of the board, they way I do it is: I move to the center portion of the board. In the rapid position menu, there is a button that says “Z+6”. That will put the bit at 6mm above where it thinks zero is. Then oh can manually lower the bit until you touch the paper. Then you can “set zero” for your z. It seems complicated, but once you do it a couple times it’s pretty simple. For the spoilboard head over to Meyers Woodshop and the files you need will be in the blog section. As far as the guides, those I made and you can get them on thingiverse from our page. If you don’t have a 3D printer, you can order them. www.thingiverse.com/thing:4158115
@@PricklyGuyCreations When I go to that site where do I find them to order or have printed if that is what needs to be done I signed up and have an account there just need to know what to do. Jeff
To each their own. But this way you can create one file with multiple bits. It’s actually pretty quick. It’s a personal preference. Carbide pushed their bit setter a lot. I used to use it a ton. Not so much anymore.
THANK YOU! Saving this video to send to others when this comes up in the future!
Great video, but I had errors loading those files when Vcarve Pro fired up. Thank you for the time to make this.
Good Morning I want to take time here to say thanks for the bit setter video and all of your help with me understanding out to use it
Jeff
You’re very welcome. Wish I was better at explaining. Hope you got it.
Hi I am trying to understand how this bit setter works.
this is my take on what I saw you do. First of all at some point you installed a .125 em which did not rally have anything to do with the file you were going to cut right, is was there so that you could initiate the bit setter and then set your XZY with that bit using the touch probe. Right then jog and reset the Z off the top of your board then reset theZ then load the cut file that bit will move to the front and you put in the first bit in the file and click continue it will then move and take a reading on that bit an move back to the center where you will put dust collection on and start router and hit continue. and do the same thing with the next toolpath. So now can you tell me how it all works if the bit that is loaded to begin with is the bit for the first and all you used was the probe to set theZYX do you just load then what do you do.
Thanks Jeff Peters
I know that these steps can sometimes seem pretty complicated. I’ll try to simplify a little. When using carbide motion, there are only 1/4” and 1/8” end mills that you can set your xyz axis with. In my case, the last bit I used was 1/8” so it was already in the machine. Now if my first bit was going to be one of those, I would have swapped before I powered up the Shapeoko. But in this case, my first bit was a V-bit. I cannot probe xyz with that. So I went ahead and set all my zeros. As soon as you power on and connect the Shapeoko it takes the first reading from the bitsetter. So now you can use that bit to set your zeros. (Yes I did check zero in the middle with the paper but this is optional). You can load your gcode at any point. I’m just in the habit of loading it after I zero everything. But now I have to load my V-bit before I can start. So you press load tool and the machine will come to the front, you load the tool, then it takes the reading for that tool and automatically adjusts your zero. (Again here you can use the paper/ completely optional). Now your file and bit is loaded, your machine is zeroed, add your dust collector and hit start. The only reason I use the paper is to be more accurate when I’m using v-bits.
Yes, when using carbide motion when you press start, it will check the bitsetter one more time. (No way around this in carbide motion). Really hope this helps. Please keep asking, I’ll keep trying to help.
@@PricklyGuyCreations Thanks For the reply. How much of what I posted above was correct.
All of it.
@@PricklyGuyCreationsthanks for all your help Jeff
Thanks a million, you not only post videos BUT YOU HELP people fix their issues!!!! WOW, you can't find that everywhere.! thanks again
Very informative and well paced video. Thanks
Chris I have just watch this video again and I have a question the the first bit you had in the router when you initialize the machine did exactly what.also when you used the touch probe and set your x and y and then went to the middle oh the board to set theZ could you have sipped the probe ang gone to the center of the board and set the
XYZ all at the same time using the paper Jeff Peters
Great walk through
Know this is 2 years old. I’m new to VCarve and using the shapeoko. My router will do all that is asked until it’s time to carve. It won’t go to the piece to carve Can you help?
Let’s start with the basics. Are you using mm or inch? What post processor are you using when you save your toolpaths in Vcarve? I have not used Carbide Motion in almost two years. Been exclusively using CNCJS so I have no idea if they have done any updates.
Also, how are you setting your zeros? (X,Y,Z)
Not sure if you know this but after probing it returns the bit to the proper xy position but purposely keeps the bit in a +z position. Check the screen after probing and you'll see it says x and y are at zero but z is at 6mm if I recall correctly. The system records the proper z height however its designed to keep the bit off the work surface after probing.
It does. I was speaking more towards the z position when at the material surface.
hopefully you will see this. I have done your directions but the file isnt showing in the drop down for post processors. I went back in to MyPost directory and it shows there. Thanks for any help you can give.
You must close the program completely and then reopen it. If it’s showing in the folder, that’s all I can think of.
Hi watching this video I see some brackets for the x drag chain is that something you made or bought
Those I actually found on thingiverse for Shapeoko drag chain. Let me see if I can find a link.
Thank you very much. I get this tool error, “… both use tool number 1 but the geometry of the tools are different” it took me a while to figured it out lol. Make sure to number your tool.
Do you know if this is still needed with the Shapeoko 5 4x4 ?
Sorry, I do not. I haven’t used a Shapeoko in a year or so, and I have not been using a bit setter anymore.
Chris When I go to the link you provided I do not get a screen to down load the Neils file could it be out dated Jeff
I downloaded your spoil board file was it created for tee nuts or threaded inserts.
Thanks Jeff
T-nuts.
www.amazon.com/Threaded-Quantity-Bolt-Dropper-Pronged/dp/B07HYPG43R/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=t+nuts+1%2F4-20&qid=1620650413&sprefix=t+nuts&sr=8-3
@@PricklyGuyCreations WOW thank you for the quick reply Jeff
Thank you very much for a very helpful video!!
I try to install the TC PP into Aspire and get the error No closing quote on line
On line 990 of file ".../..." and it crashes Aspire. Oh well thanks anyways, it was worth a try
Like others, Thanks for taking time to pass on your experiences. There are so many things to learn nice to have someone to shorten the learning journey. So I’ve subscribed.
Awesome. That’s the entire reason I’m doing this. Trying to save others from what I have had to learn the hard way.
Does this only work in pro version? or can it work with VCarve desktop.
I'm getting an error under "visible toolpaths to one file" it reads both use tool number 1 but the geometry of the tools are different
You’ll have to setup different tool numbers for each bit. I have a short video on that too. That way the program knows which bit is which.
@@PricklyGuyCreations Thanks, (this is bad) I had to change the # bit per toolpaths ex same bit #1541, #1542 #1543. I don't want to but it keeps giving me an error
Thanks for taking time to make this video! Very helpful. I guarantee your subscriber numbers will be growing fast!
Thank you for this Video very well done!!
I might be questioning too soon, but what's the point of having a Bit Setter and a Bit Zero if you still need to use the paper method to set your actual zero? I've been saving to buy one or the other (can't really see why I'd spend so much for both) if I still need to set my Z zero manually :(
You don’t “have” to. The touch probe is spot on with the x and y zero. The Z is usually close, but if your work surface or the material you are cutting is not perfectly straight, it’s not uncommon to have some discrepancies especially if you get that extremely “straight” wood from Home Depot. I use the paper method during the initial setup to get things as close as possible. After that is set, the bitsetter is great for tool changes. No longer need to re-verify zero.
TNT Creations TR hey thanks for the reply! Given you got experience with both, I’m interested in buying one... I am not sure which one I should get tho... my designs do contain tool changes, so I’m leaning towards the bit setter... your advise would be greatly appreciated!
Agustin Gutierrez The order I got mine was: Touch probe, then bitsetter. BUT, if you can handle the initial zeros without a probe, I would definitely say the bitsetter is worth getting first. Also, there is no reason you have to buy carbide 3D’s touch probe. There are lots of them out there that work. If you are using Carbide Motion, then you are kinda stuck with there probe. If you are using cncjs or another sender, you can use whatever you want.
TNT Creations TR thanks a lot! I always thought I was locked to Carbide’s, I do use CNCjs with a Raspberry Pi so youve made my day! thanks!
@@PricklyGuyCreations You can also make your own similar to bitsetter if you have a 3D printer, or even with a piece of wood, and just two cables and one push botton ( 5 USD or less on amazon ). Ideas on Thingiverse.
Watching this again great video. question . did you make your own file for your waste board or is it found some where else also when you cut it did you prop it up off the machine bed to keep the drilling from getting in to it.
Jeff
Yes. I used one off the internet first, but the holes were not how I wanted them, so I modified and made my own. First one was from Myers wood shop. Before he quit Shapeoko and went to Onefinity. I put a piece of scrap under it to cut out.
@@PricklyGuyCreations
I like the way yours is set up any chance you sell that file?
@@resorter66 Lemme see if I still have it. I’ve added to it since then. Added a ruler down my x and y. Helps me with my acrylic cuts.
Jeff, here is a link to my file. This is a two sided file in VCarve. You don't have to use the other side. It is where my Logo is, and some mounting holes. I use Kregg screws in the mounting holes to attach to the Shapeoko, and 1/4" T-Nuts from Amazon for the wasteboard. There is also a ruler toolpath. This really helps me, but is unnecessary. If you use it, I would run it seperate, and start it wherever you want your XY zero to be. Hope this helps.
drive.google.com/file/d/1ywOiPs_9Cw4HZVtv0kjMwmBMwMiLD93i/view?usp=sharing
@@PricklyGuyCreations Thanks a lot for the file . I really appreciate you sharing.
Hi there! If I try to use this in Aspire, I'm getting two errors:
1) No closing quote found on line 822 of file *location*
2) Unknown statement found in file on line 6 of file
Line 6 is and honestly, I can't code to save my life. Would you mind looking into this? Thanks!
Glad to hear you got it figured out. Lol
Great video, I was debating whether to get the bit setter but run VCarve Pro so I wasn’t sure if it would work. What version of CRbide Motion are you running and where did you get the guides and hold downs? I really like those. Do you like them?
If you download the latest version of carbide motion from their site, you’ll be fine. I think it’s 417. I’m running 428. I made the guides. I didn’t like the ones that were out there so I’ve been messing around with Fusion360. Still working on the hold downs. “Work in progress”. I love the guides. Keeps me lined up and doesn’t interfere with touch probe.
Thanks for the video. I have a quick question about tool#'s. Do you have to rename each bit a different #? it looks like all of mine are tool#1 by default in vcarve
Yes. When you setup the bit, there is a place for the tool number at the bottom. Most are 1,2,3 etc. I use Amana and Carbide3D, so I just number them the actual bit number. There is a way to put it in the header, but this way is MUCH easier.
Let me know if a short video of the setup would help. I’ve planned on doing a fusion360 video, but I could do a VCarve quickly this weekend.
@@PricklyGuyCreations I use Amana and just imported the tool library and never named a tool number. I keep getting a error "tool number the same but different diameter".. Had me confused,I thought I wasn't installing the pp correct
@@PricklyGuyCreations Yes that would be great using VCarve
I’ll try to get a video up this week. I’m out of town this weekend, so it’ll be during the week.
Where can I purchase the plastic clamps and "square" devices shown in your videos?.....thanks
I have a thingiverse page where you can download the files for free. If you know someone with a 3D printer, they don’t take much to print. I’ll post the links here in a bit.
Here is the link for the edge and corner guides:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4158115
Here is the link for the clamps. Remember to download the new version:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4170326
Do you now have regular Shapeoko_inch and mm in My_PostP folder along with Shapeoko_inch_TC.pp & mm_TC? Do you get rid of the non _TC files and do you just select _TC ones even when no tool change is needed? I don't remember if I originally had Grbl_inch.PP previously. I swear that's what I was using before and not the Shapeoko_inch specifically.
Thanks fellow Texan
I use the Grbl_mm_TC.PP. I just created my own and renamed it. I added a pause so my spindle can speed up. (When I finally use my spindle). I can add the non-TC files back in, I just don’t use them anymore.
Dumb question, but where can you get those red items on your spoilboard? Or the STL's?
I've started my Thingiverse page. Here is the link www.thingiverse.com/thing:4158115
Yet another Thank you and still 3 thumbs down There are some stupid people in the world. Thanks Again
Watched this video again and have a question. Do you find that the touch probe does not set real goo on the wood and will move while it is probing . mine when I put it on the corner the weight of the wire hanging over the front of the machine will cause it to move I feel like I have to hold it in place. or does that not matter.
Jeff
The X and Y shouldn’t matter. The Z, yes. Sometimes mine will move too. But if you do the sticky note, that will double check your Z.
I have been looking for a video like this forever!!! One question....how do you zero out Z after probing? You showed everything on the video of how that looks in the computer except that and that is what I've been having the most issues with. Great, informative video. Thanks!!
I manually move to the center portion of the piece and use the Z+6 command in the rapid move section. Then I can select 1mm increments and slowly edge down to the piece. When I get close then I change to the smaller increments and edge down until the bit slightly touches the paper. At that point I select the zero z button. That’s it! This is not “required”, but a good practice especially at the start. It really helps if you are carving fine details with a vbit.
Do you have a wireless/bluetooth keyboard?definitely need those if your just navigating on your material.
Had a tablet that I used. Tablet was too cheap. Locked up all the time. Looking to replace.
Does this also apply to the carbide create non pro version?
I don’t really use Carbide Create so I can’t really say too much. I found it basic for what I was trying to do. I think it’s a great free program, I was just looking for more.
TNT Creations TR so you use the Pro Version or do you use a different software?
victor cisneros I use VCarve Pro. It’s a little expensive but I love it. Eventually I will update to Aspire (Both products are from Vectric). Aspire has more 3D capabilities. I’m just getting started with the 3D STL files. VCarve can cut 3D models, it just cannot create them. VCarve Pro does everything I need right now.
TNT Creations TR thanks for the insight. Definitely going to continue to follow you here and on Instagram
This is the first video that I have see. Looks like great information but I couldn't hear you.
I don't know if it is just my computer and phone (I tried watching with both) but the music drowns out the narrative.
I'm not being negative in any way....just a observation on my end.
Thanks for the video. I see so many people are very happy with their results, this makes me feel even more stupid. I think I did everything as you instructed but my "Save Toolpath" button is still grayed out due to the error code saying I have different end mill sizes. I do see the "tool change" in my PP, but still not allowing me to save, help meeeeeeeeee
Let me get back to the house tonight and we can see what we can figure out. I won’t leave you in the cold. lol.
Ok, when you dropped the post processor in your application folder, did you drop in “My_PostP” or “PostP”?
@@PricklyGuyCreations Dude, thanks for helping!! I dropped it into my_post
Ok. So when you select your post processor in VCarve, what are your options?
@@PricklyGuyCreations I get the Tool Change option and I select it but it still displays the error about different tool sizes
Hey great video you need to do videos for Carbide Create finial someone that did an in depth video that show"s how it works.
I do have a couple of questions when it is done with a tool path and needs to change bits does it move to the front center by it's self or did you do something. That was a little unclear. Also could you elaborate some on what you did when you moved to the center and touched off there about changing to mm's. Also did you make your own fixtures for your spoil board, is so do you sell them . I like the way mount and can be moved. Well I might as well keep asking. Do you have a file for your spoil board I also have a XXL that I could buy.
I just Subscribed Jeff Peters
If you are using the new tool change post processor, it will move to the from on its own. Carbide motion will prompt you’re to turn off spindle, then to change tools. When I was checking the Z height in the middle of the board, they way I do it is: I move to the center portion of the board. In the rapid position menu, there is a button that says “Z+6”. That will put the bit at 6mm above where it thinks zero is. Then oh can manually lower the bit until you touch the paper. Then you can “set zero” for your z. It seems complicated, but once you do it a couple times it’s pretty simple. For the spoilboard head over to Meyers Woodshop and the files you need will be in the blog section. As far as the guides, those I made and you can get them on thingiverse from our page. If you don’t have a 3D printer, you can order them. www.thingiverse.com/thing:4158115
@@PricklyGuyCreations When I go to that site where do I find them to order or have printed if that is what needs to be done I signed up and have an account there just need to know what to do. Jeff
There is a button that says “Order This Printed”. Push that and select a vendor. I have nothing to do with that side, but I hear they are pretty fast.
music is super distracting btw!
Well, I don’t make videos for a living. Just trying to help a fellow maker when I can.
You gotta get rid of the music. Can't hear you that well
Your right. I’m not an editor. Early video. Still learning too.
@@PricklyGuyCreations I hear ya. I'm trying to find the time to learn DaVinci Resolve. I was wondering if you could upload it again without the music.
well that seem like a waste of time why not just use your X,Y,Z Prop, it will be a lot faster.
To each their own. But this way you can create one file with multiple bits. It’s actually pretty quick. It’s a personal preference. Carbide pushed their bit setter a lot. I used to use it a ton. Not so much anymore.
Your music is disproportionately loud compared to your voice.
Thanks for the feedback! I’ll make sure to adjust the levels if I ever make another. Wouldn’t want the music stealing the show, right?