The CVT probably isn't great. We have a manual 2014 mirage in the family and it's honestly not bad, yeah everything feels cheap but it has been very reliable and fuel economy is way better than my Yaris
@@StephenDeTomasiMitsubishi CVT is very reliable. They have been perfecting them since the 90s; far before they merged with Jatco and Nissan. Even under Jatco, Mitsubishi’s CVTs are made using Mitsubishi’s own INVECS III technology. So it’s very reliable. I saw on the news a Mitsubishi Mirage CVt that lasted over 500k miles which broke the record as the longest lasting CVT mirage.
@@StephenDeTomasiI just bought a mint, low km 2013 manual Mirage and I absolutely love it. I’ve owned 47 cars, including 3 1970’s Zs and an R33 Skyline. Yes, it’s basic, but you don’t pay much so I don’t mind.
My list before watching the video: 1. Any Nissan CVT; 2. Highly modified/thrashed ricers; 3. Mazda RX8; 4. Mazda diesels (thx to this channel); 5. High mileage Camrys; 6. Overpriced Landcruisers et al. 7. Mazda MX-5. Good cars, but I can’t fit in one. 😂
Honda Accord Euro CU2 Series I 2008-2010 start to play up at around 230,000kms. It’s all about sensors failing in sequence. Just when you thought that you fixed it, it fails again.
Here’s a vote for the humble, ugly, Nissan Tiida. The police in South Africa used them extensively as support based vehicles about 15 years back. Every one of them, which were not totalled in accidents, reached over 300k kilometres, before being retired. Absolutely all were horribly abused and driven hard. We have one in our local fleet which is still on active service, because it’s maintenance budget has not yet been depleted. Built like a brick. I have no idea what subframe issues they are referring to.
I bought my daughter one with 70,000 on it, now 220,000 and while it’s very tired cosmetically it’s still running well. I once spoke to an RAC roadside mechanic and he said they’re a great car. Very rare to get a call out for them.
I feel the internet is full of bad comments on Nissan, however I have owned several Nissans and they have all been great, very reliable. I just can't understand all the trash people put on them.
When I lived in Dubai, wealthy Arabs who don't go off road, buy Range Rovers. Those that have money, but like trips to the desert, drive Land Cruisers, those that aren't as wealthy, buy Patrols. Ex pats (Aussies, Brits etc) with families, bought Pajeros. Ex pats that want to drive the dunes on weekends, buy two door short wheel base Pajeros. Most Land Cruisers driven in the desert for a a couple of years have clapped out engines due to dust and sand injection, so Arabs flip them after three years of ownership. The Range Rover dealer has a flat bed recovery vehicle that's seen everywhere with broken down Range Rovers Sports on the back, and yet they still buy them. Used Patrols are very cheap compared to Land Cruisers, but if you buy a three year old Land Cruiser, you'll be paying for an engine rebuild or replacement after a few months. The Patrols seem to be more reliable, but the suspensions need work after a few years.
A lot of folks are saying they’ve been improving their CVT for years and it’s actually good now, to that I’d say first of all I wouldn’t want to take the risk for almost zero reward, second of al if your transmission takes decades to get it right and in the mean time you have no problem putting them in your car to sell to people that don’t know about it, you’re a extremely dishonest company and who knows what other corner cutting you’re hiding
well, my "horror story"... i have a 91' toyota corona, now with 1.3 million kms. On 2017, something happened while driving... related to, someone doing an oil change without telling me and using the wrong oil (4A-F engine)... it started rattling, then misfiring, then became a 3 cilinder.... then a 2 cilinder... It was a shitty day, i just wanted to get home so i did... drove about 100kms with the issue (of course not pushing the engine, trying to keep it under 3k rpms)... arrived home, turned it off and went to sleep, next morning i realized there was no oil... it became so thin that it just zipped through the carter plug... (not the best plug either but thats another story)... I filled it up with the correct oil to see if I could make it at least spin... tried once, nothing... tried again... nothing... on the third it not only spun, it turned on... couldnt hold revs, sometimes it shuted off... sometimes it went to 3k rpm out of nowhere... At least i still had 4 cilinders, i thought to myself. I drove it like 10kms to the shop i usually take my cars and when i arrived the car was absolutely perfect... a bit of a jump at minimum rpms, jumping from 750 to 1000 but nothing more. I explain what happen to the mechanic and he told me "well... gotta open it to see what really happened".... all sparkplugs were oiled up, gunked up, clearly ready to throw away... needed a cilinder head gasket change... the air filter was full of oil so it had to be replaced too... i spent $300... I thought it was a gonner but its now on 1.3million kms... 300k kms added with absolutely no issues since that day.
@@michaelhart5886 100%, a couple of japanese mechanics came at night while i was sleeping and fix everything i broke... their honor was not gonna be questioned haha
So the title of this video should really be the “Japanese cars I would not buy because I think they look shit” - rather than what I was expecting “… because they fall apart before your eyes”
By the way, Honda City's are the weapon of choice for SE Asian housewives. Their husband's buy them for them because they're Hondas, and Hondas have the reputation of being high end sporty cars in Asia. So every time you see one, you basically know the demographic of the driver.
Sorry guys but I think you're clutching at straws here a bit on this video. Why is the CRV here?! Its a great car for what it is. One of the best in class. Fact is no-one buys an SUV for driving excitement/fun. There is not one SUV on the market that is fun to drive. Also who ever said the Paseo was a performance/sports car. It never was and was never marketed as such. It was sold as a compact good value economical attractive little coupe. They are Japanese built and superbly reliable. No reason to avoid one at all if you're after a good looking reliable little car that is a bit different. Its also notable that quite few of the cars on this list are actually great cars - just need to avoid a certain engine or transmission.
I bought and sold many Honda CR-V 3 rd gens. Great car, manual 2.4L is fun enough to drive, and good handling. My cousin and I can also drive it very hard, pedal to the floor, up the hill. Was great fun. Likewise, I don’t know what these guys are on about
Porsche cayenne and macan as well as their other VW products are actually fun. I agree they were making their list trashing some cars we find great. Some cars like CRV are made for other purposes than being a fun car. Though I get it’s their personal taste.
Okay, we(I) own (by accident) bought a 2002 V6 Mazda Tribute at 190k 7 years ago and has now just hit 250K - Everything works as new. It was not a planned purchase but just happened as my Mom was planning to move to Aus... Never happened but here we are 7 years later. I had to replace the alternator a couple of years ago but it's not that hard - I'm 60 and did it in my drive in about 4 hrs. I'm the first to admit you need some decent tools. The largest issue is that you need some extensions and wobbly sockets to get to one of the alternator bolts - might also apply to the alternator mount. 6Hrs is BS. If I was doing it tomorrow it would be 3hrs. NOT a nice job but not that hard. I must admit I did not expect the Tribute to work as well as it does but it just keeps on going and given we bought it for $1500 7 years ago with 190K so why not keep it. Yep fuel economy isn't great but it uses 91/e10 and is fine on longer runs. It's a big car, what do you expect? Plastics? I've owned this car for 7 years now, have replaced coil packs and the HP PAS hose so have taken the inlet manifold off a couple of times (an easy hour with 8mm and 10mm sockets) and am really not seeing the issue you allude to. The only "plastic" issue was a small vacuum house which has split near the connection - that was a rubber coupling. It came up with an ODBCII code which was pretty basic back then, e.g. vacuum leak. Fixed with some self amalgamating tape. You can be lucky or not, but often as not you create your own luck..
I’m gonna have to agree to disagree with the City. Totally unkillable, really quite safe for their size/age and not awful to drive. Admittedly I have a soft spot as I learned to drive in one. But they really arent awful. Plus the boot is effing huge.
Honda City is good, but then this point of video I guess are the Japanese cars that they least like, not all exactly because they are the worst. Whats interesting I find here compared to bad Euro cars is that the issues listed isn't all too serious if you keep the maintenance, there are just aesthetics and being just no character to drive. Except for Diesel Mazda and CVTs mostly on old Nissan, but other than that, theyre mostly okay and will likely just last. While bad Euro cars listed before are just listed so many issues with them to the point that you will question how come people still driving them, since many of those are apparently sounds like money pit. But yeah back to Honda City, I think that category of cars here just don't make too much sense for Australian market I guess. It's not as compact as Jazz but it's still smaller than regular Civic for not much benefit on our roads. On Southeast Asia, they serve so well because the price difference actually matters as regular Civic is too expensive but may not want as small as Jazz. So it's an odd middle ground. Tbh, at least that gen of Honda City shown doesn't all look too great to me either aesthetic wise . The proportion looks odd since its trying to be smaller Civic but ended up oddly shaped.
re: 3rd/4th gen CRV... I'm a car enthusiast but I gotta say, those CRVs are effortless drivers. Like super comfy, reliable, easy to drive and spacious. Objectively a good "Car" despite being boring to some.
I'm watching from Europe and have never owned a CRV but I have to say that that choice also grated with me. You see loads of them on the road and I'm sure they give their owners zero problems. Give me "boring"any day.
I don't know why it's mentioned. Sure, it's not going to thrill you from behind the wheel. But tell me what rival SUV does? SUV's are not for fun. The CRV is a great car for what it is.
For the person who doesn't give any damns about driving dynamics the CR-V is hard to beat. Great mileage, cheap to run and will be as reliable as the sun rising in the East every morning.
Leave the B4 alone, have you even driven one? They are the weirdest, coolest thing around, the first turbo is great under 4k rpm and the big turbo is great over 5k We don't speak about the space in between...
I did a 2nd gear pull when I first drove a B4. I remember thinking, "Is that it?" at 3.5k rpm until about 4.5k rolled around, and the car just transformed. That was fun!
I have a 2002 GTB Wagon with the EJ208 twin turbo engine. If the car is dead below 4K your might have an issue. The first turbo starts to boost around 2K and the second one adds on around 4.5K. The redline is 7.5K so if you really want to, you can keep it above 5K to keep both turbos on the boil and avoid the cross over point (the valley of death) where the the transition happens (a turbo engine that likes to rev ;). The Supra, RX7 and the Porsche 959 had similar twin turbo systems, a throwback to an earlier era to try and avoid low RPM lag of a big single turbo. Newer turbo designs, direct injection and higher compression ratios have made these systems complexity moot. I would have purchased the next gen wagon with the single turbo if I could have imported it at the time, but they did not meet Canada's 15 year rule. Some people have converted twin turbos to single turbo to remove the complexity and open up tuning potential. So far no issues with the twin turbo setup and my car is OLD. I agree a EVO wagon would be super cool, they are much more expensive, smaller and more hard core as a daily. Still would like to try one.
IDK how you can say the B4 is underwhelming ( amazing chassis and 300hp from the factory). I have a JDM B4 RSK ( first one imported to Canada), those cars are dirt cheap Canada ($3000-5000) but you need regular maintenance and a tune if you don't have 100 octane. My valley of death is not that big and if you know how to down shift it is not an issue. If you upgrade the fuel pump, mod 10, phase 3 and a proper tune you can get 330-340hp and the chassis is great not like VW or Audis lol.
Those Corolla's you mention are actually using a lot of Daihatsu parts, and a lot of "Toyotas" coming out of SE Asian factories are actually rebadged Daihatsu small cars. They are nowhere near as reliable as actual Toyotas built in Japan. People in SE Asia are proud to say they own a Toyota, unaware that it's not really a Toyota.
Not really, Daihatsu has its own R&D, it's own BOD etc, Daihatsu has just recently been charged with fraud by the Japanese Gov't for falsifying thirty years of safety testing. Toyota has tried to distance itself from the brand. Toyota may well own it, like they own a substantial amount of Subaru, but Daihatsu develops its own cars. Toyota just likes putting their logo on some, so they can sell more in SE Asia, where people love Toyota. The Rush, Vios etc are all Daihatsu developed vehicles, assembled in Asian plants, but with Toyota badges since Daihatsu has no dealerships in most of SE Asia. They do share some parts, but the engines and transmissions, bearings etc are not the same in most cases.
Nissan Altima is a bloody safe car. We we stationary and rear ended by a car at 80km/h. The panel beater was amazed how the car survived and the insurance company had the car repaired. The seats were designed by NASA and are super comfortable. The CVT oil must be changed at 150,000 Km. It was rated as one of the top 10 safest cars in USA in 2014
Putting Lexus SC430 on the list can't be right. It has a legendary engine and the model is THE only hardtop Lexus ever built. Recommend finding a good sample in NSW and do a review. The Car Care Nut thinks it is a hidden gem. I would agree with him as an owner of this beautiful machine.
The only folding hard top do you mean? The IS convertible is also a folding hard top FYI. I think the problem with these (and given the category it’s being discussed in) is it’s not a ‘performance’ car. They were designed as a luxury convertible. For that they do the job pretty well, but still underwhelming especially at their original price. Today they’re a bit of a bargain IMO. Probably due to their poor reputation.
Yes, but he is a Toyota/Lexus aficionado and although I enjoy his videos, they are very biased. Top Gear gave the SC430 the worst Car of the Year a few years ago.
@@jdmguy44 I agree mostly - their views are mostly out of wack with many other commentators but hey, they are getting the controversial responses they want.
I'm still surprised to see cx-7 still roaming around where I live (europe) You either have the diesel engine (problems mentioned in the video, they are probably about the same whether it's skyactiv D or pre-skyactive era) or you have the 2.3 Turbo from Mazda MPS and chances are someone hasn't taken good care of them. I don't even know if we could ever buy a 2.5 here as the taxes would have been way too high for anyone to even think about buying it. When people buy engines over 2L here (that are non hybrid -> high tax) they're stuff like Bmw or something more premium. No one would bother to endure the taxes on a mazda (good thing their recent 2.5 is mild hybrid, which basically halves the taxes or even better) The taxes are also pretty fukin high on 2.2D and 2.3 turbo as well. I'm surprised there are people that bought them.
Had one. A 2011 CX7 fwd 2.5. Base model and it had 120,000 kms when I bought it. It was a tank in winter and I was very comfortable in it. My wife hated it and I only got rid of it last year as I picked up a one owner 2016 cx5 with 120,000 kms on it. The cx5 currently sits at 150,000 kms. The cx7 was a little more comfortable and had a bit more leg room for me but the cx5 has more power and better gas mileage and has Bluetooth.
It's a high watermark to disqualify a car based on it's looks. Seriously? How many british and german cars look great on the outside but are money pits inside 😢.
I'll disagree heavily with the City, I've riden in the generation shown in this video and driven the two newer generations,all of them were good. The ones I've driven were more than fun enough thru twisties without going ludicrous speeda
I bought a brand new Subaru Outback diesel with the manual gearbox. Worst car ever, sold it a loss to get it out of my life. DPF functionality was downright dangerous as it would cut engine power when the DPF kicked in - I once lost traction on a wet corner in 5th gear under load. Subaru were useless to deal with, even when the engine had to be removed at 50,000km for leaks. Absolute shitbox.
I recommended a Subaru 2.0D to my sister because of my previous good luck with Subarus. It died on the road due to dpf issues within 6 months and Subaru refused to come to the party. It cause great strain on my relationship with her. Thankfully I have good friends who are excellent lawyers and got her a full refund. Will never touch the brand again.
If there's nothing mechanically wrong with a car, I don't see why we should avoid them. They may look unattractive, but not everyone in life is at a point where they can get an S class.
Because you have to drive it every day!!!! Why buy something that is shit to drive just because it is reliable? Buy something else that's reliable that you can enjoy driving!!
It’s in the title. They wrote what “they” wouldn’t. Meaning they made their list. On recommended and another agree. It was funny in some parts when one just agree. 😊
@@Bill-ki4zf I have a powerful Land Cruiser prado engine in my van. I love driving it but I now want a car that can save me fuel. Some people just want a car that can get them from A to B and not fun. Just learn to understand and respect other people’s needs.
Give it 10 years, the NC1 NSX will be looked back on as a great car. People saw it as an overpriced car competing with huracans, R8's etc. But it was more 918 tech at a fraction of the cost.
They keep slagging off Mazda diesels. Had mine (Mazda 2) 8.5 yrs and it runs like a dream. Serviced every 6 months to the day. Replaced 2 batteries, one set of rear shock stops and 1 set of tyres. Averages 4.4li/100km and runs to the local pub & back (15km ea way) can be as low as 2.8li/100km (its twisty turny, narrow and very dark)
@@jdmguy44 True they did show the Mazda 3, but they said Mazda cant make diesels period and dont buy any at all. They didn't say the 2.2s are crap but the 1.5 is OK.
@@csjrogerson2377 I've never personally heard of any issues with the 1.5 diesel fitted to the 2/CX3. They were sold here in the UK for a few years and withdrawn. I actually have a Mazda 2 (2018 model) with the Skyactiv 1.5 petrol. It's been great all round. Now used as a second car.
These are entry level cars. Don’t bother buying one if you can afford the higher level where you can expect better quality and performance but other people opted these cars because of their budget. We don’t have the same level of financial stability
I agree with the C-HR, but for different reasons. In Europe we have a 180hp 2.0 hybrid, which sounds perfect on paper. It has pretty good power, but holy shit it sounds terrible. It's loud even when cruising at city speeds, it vibrates a lot, it's just annoying (much more so than the painfully slow 1.8 hybrid). Drivetrain calibration is also horrible. You can't smoothly inch ahead for example when parking. It either stops, or gets going too quickly. People also like to mention how you can feel the transition between regenerative braking and friction braking. I've driven plenty of hybrids and electric cars and none of them are this bad. Toyota has been making hybrids for 20 years and yet the completely messed up the calibration on this. It's not blended at all. It's like I have x amount of braking at y pedal pressure, then I move on to 1.01 * y on the pedal pressure and I get 1.5x braking force. Then you go back to y pedal pressure and you lose half you braking power. You get into a yo-yo because you can't get it to behave properly. It's scary. Interior quality? What's that? Driver's door panel rattles since day 1. Dash rattles from month 1. Something INSIDE THE DASH behind the gauge cluster rattles from month 6. Dealers are useless at fixing any of this. Other issues? Yes. The rear brakes are dragging which sounds embarrassing when you are driving slowly. CV shafts click when you transition from braking to power. The car is ~15 months old with 30k km. It's falling apart. Again, dealers are useless when it comes to fixing any of it. Before anyone accuses me of expecting a Toyota to behave like a Rolls Royce, let me share some of the cars I've owned (or owned by family). MK1 Ford Focus, Ford C-Max, R53 Mini Cooper S (famous for rattles, but is way less annoying than the C-HR), Nissan Leaf (good comparison for braking and creeping in traffic), Renault Megane MK3. No Rolls Royce or Bentley here... The C-HR is hugely overrated and I don't understand why.
The Paseo is not a performance car. It's a Starlet that's less practical. But, it's actually a really good car. It rides brilliantly for what it is, it weighs 900kg so it actually feels a lot faster than it could, and it can get 50mpg, or 5.6l/100km. An old work friend of mine had one for years, we thought it was a joke. When he put it up for sale, I took it for a drive - I was converted, and bought it. Utterly love the thing. If you get a chance to drive one, I recommend it. To me it's a hidden gem.
I worked at a Honda dealership for 15 years, and 90% of people who bought a City were people of Indian descent. Sorry to say, but when they were traded in, they smelt like a papadam 😅
I have 2013 Mirage since new, manual, never an issue, easy to do the basics, same economy as a prius for 1/3 the price. Mechanic says its still like new. Great run around and easy to park, whats not to like! Happy for you guys to review if you like..
In the performance car section you mentioned the BRZ/GT86 twins, I'm 90% sure that the sealant in the oil pickup issue/ bad sump design is only with the new 2022+ BRZ/GR86 not the first gen or the facelift.
Yeah, I'm looking at a first gen 86 / BRZ, probably around a 2012-2015 model. I haven't heard of this issue before and also ReDriven didn't cover this in their review. Is this only in newer models and do you have any sources? Cheers mate 👍
Actually given what they said, this issue would either be fixed, or if not fixed would cause engine failure in the long term. So buying a second hand car that has already been drive for a while, guessing this shouldn't be an issue for them. 🤔
@@eternalkingofwesteros Okay that's good to hear, I do remember there were some recalls, so I'll make sure to double check that before purchasing, cheers mate 👍
@@coachjohn2190given how many of these I’ve seen with either a stuffed engine or had the engine replaced, I’d suggest there is definitely some oil starvation issues going on with them as well.
Bit harsh on the Escape/Tribute. Mrs had a Tribute and I'm the 2nd owner of a a '01 V6 Escape with 290,000kms. Has a few creaks and rattles but great daily driver and I can load it up with a full PA system and guitar rig. They're not that hard to work on. Parts readily available and relatively cheap.
lmao I own a Honda City. The boot is really deep, it’s cheap to maintain, and very fuel efficient. I also have very little interest in cars in general - so you hit that nail on the head.
Working as a carsalesperon. A CX-7 went 47,000km from new... it went that long with not a single service.... not even the complimentary 1500km service. Then the engine blew up, it's a detuned version of engine that was in the Mazda 6 Turbo...the Tibeca was always horrendous hahaha
is the 2019 Infiniti Q50 (sports auto, rear wheel drive, 45,000km to 55,000km odometer) a good car to buy servicing-wise, and keep for next 5 years? It’s already almost about to go on its 7th year
We had 2 Toyota Yaris sedan, one manual and one auto. They were very reliable. Very spacious passenger compartment with a massive boot. The metallic grey was perfect even after 13 years of use. The only part changed in all the years was a parking lamp... apart from tires and battery. It returned the same fuel efficiency as the day one. Except for the engine power it was a great car.
The Ford Escape four cylinder was a great car. We had two over a period of nine years, starting with the series 2 then trading up to the series 3. Never missed a beat, nicely featured, took them both up to 80-90K. We'd have traded up to another but Ford Australia discontinued it for the Kuga (I think) and the prices also started getting stupid. By the time they brought the Escape nameplate back we were Mitsubishi ASX converts.
You are so right about the versa/Tiida. When I got it they had welded the bushing on the left side and not knowing what had happened i thought it was a bad lower arm on the right side since the right side was moving. The car would suddenly change direction. Had to purchase an entire subframe to replace it as the subframe bushing were not available
YES! I've been watching you for over a year now from across the ditch in NZ. These alot of content like this in America, but not in anywhere else close to NZ. Its good to see somewhere close to NZ with these type of reviews that your channel provides. I'm enjoying the variety. Awesome work guys, even though you're bloody Aussie! Another thing. I'm really enjoying seeing more of Jim. Yes I enjoy watching Adam hop in back seats and boots of cars etc, but I believe Jim is more of a natural presenter. Jim has lacked confidence, but very noticeable now has come out of his shell alot. Jim has got such an awesome radio voice and I couldn't listen to him for him for hours! I've noticed cars in NZ are practically the same in Australia, but listening to you guys the demographics of the cars can vary I'm needing a small hatchback. Yes i care a little about image. I thinking a 1.5L would be more ideal size for performance and economy. I'm exactly 2 inches shorter, than known drummer and pretentious coffee drinker Adam. Two cars catch my eye are being good drivers cars. 1. The Honda Jazz which is mostly driven here buy elderly woman...yes even the RS sport model. 2. The Suzuki Swift that is mainly driven buy young mums and some elderly. As a wild card I think I may even consider a Toyota Aqua. I like the Aqua looks, great economy, performance isn't bad I heard. Can I have some assistance please on the best choice for me. I like cars, and I'm really clueless on which is the best car here 😅
Surprised that a Kiwi asked for someone else’s opinion! If you have the money, get a MB GLA (preferably AMG) or an MB GLC. If you want the cheaper end of the market, go electric, or for petrol, go the Swift. I think, for what it is worth, that your observations are insightful. Can’t beat the Swift for a basic little chuck about though. Cheers mateq
I have the FB20 engine in a basic 2014 manual Forester, I agree about the oil consumption, it was a surprise & look at the dipstick weekly, car is serviced at the correct time interval but am a fairly low mileage driver & it is used gently.Over the years & 180,000km, I've only topped it up twice & had one oil warning display, it took on a litre of oil to bring it back to normal.
I've got a 2007 Tida with 64k on the clock. Only driven by a little old lady to church on Sundays (my Mum). It is a really comfortable car to drive, runs on the smell of an oily rag and has been serviced regularly. Not bad for $4500.
What Paseos are really great for is being a donor car for a 5EFE swap into an EP91 Starlet. You can also pinch their seat bases for a cheap seat lowering mod, and their cluster for a tacho conversion.
4 years ago I bought a Forester Diesel 2010 as the first iteration of a diesel boxer for Subaru, 70K kms of city/highway driving later (now at 200K kms) I've had no engine, dpf, or gearbox issues. Other than a couple of pulleys, a ball joint, a clutch, and a rear differential; it's been purring a long at 6.4l/100km
I love my Tiida. Its the ultimate "still running ok" shitbox. Looks awful, never misses a beat. I love the shitbox, I don't care flex. 130k km, costs me nothing.
CHR from Toyota is a great car with successful sales. If it suits your space needs, buy it. I turned the video off when they mentioned CHR. If you tell people to avoid this then you have no idea what you are saying.
@@lindsaywebb1904 which is also false. It's a fast car (0-100 in 7,2s) for a family car and extremely economical. Featuring this car in a "the worst Japanese car" video is absolutely nonsense.
Those late model Mitsubishi Mirage cars are actually a South East Asian model and not even available in Japan. They’re manufactured in Philippines and Thailand only iirc.
They're also not that bad if you get them in a manual variant. Excellent on fuel and very simple and reliable cars. They can be found used for $5k easily
Camry 2006 - 2012? Have a 2010, done 160k, regular service, everything works fine, it just goes and goes. Very comfortable, and looks new inside. Economy is good on the highway, but gets high around town compared to a new corolla we just hired on holidays. Last service needed front wheel bearings, its first repair ever. Other than usual filters, brake pads, tyres and battery nothing else.
I had a 2007 Camry from near new. Very reliable but wallowed about at the sight of a corner or bumps. I spent money on wheels and shocks etc... but I think it was just a crap chassis. Passengers got nauseous on windy roads no matter who actually drove. Fine on the motorway. Kept it for years but never liked it to drive. The most disappointing car I've owned.
My wife owns the 2005 Ford ZB Escape, same as what you guys showed. It is the 4 Cyl version and we have had to change an alternator, power steering pressure pipe, engine mount and it leaks oil but it is a damn great car with 360,000km on it. It is really nice to drive, handles great and very comfortable, plus pretty good on fuel. I have heard a lot of bad about the V6 version. Love my Pajero, most under rated 4wd in my opinion. Mine is 22 years old with 315,000km and it is having issues from things wearing out but it is still a brilliant vehicle. I never want to own anything else.
The Toyota 2AZ engine, had a Camry with zero problems that has done well over 200,000kms. Had a Tarago with the same engine and it had catastrophic engine failure due to oil consumption before 130,000kms. Both serviced on time every time.
Oh and here’s a challenge - why not do 4WD Ute buy or avoid episodes and see which one of you ends up with the horses head in your bed first - that segment is a dangerous space to play in 🐎🐎
My 2000 Mazda 626 wagon was super reliable, had for 15yrs from 80k-280k. One fuel pump, wiper motor and clutch master cylinder in last year, that was it for unexpected faults. Suspect it was still on original clutch as I never replaced it. In manual form power is OK for sensible passing on open road, 1.8 corolla is quicker but has smaller boot.
Always love your videos but you finally got personal with a car I own... Echo sedan yes is the ugly duckling of the lineup, however they all come with the 1.5 which is only reserved for the Sportivo variant in hatch form (which I also own) but sedan is actually lighter than the hatch. So essentially the sedan is a sleeper Sportivo with 4 doors. Totally agree with paint however haha!
Yes I hv a manual and 2nd gear near red line zone is 100km better than a lot of sprts cars multi fold the value unbelivable! Note not into red zone yet!
Hawkeye Impreza WRX owner here with the EJ25. No argument from me that it’s an ownership prospect to avoid. I love the looks, sounds and driving experience. I just wish I hadn’t been paying for it for the last year and a half 😅 In it’s defence, the first 2-3 years were pretty reasonable, cost wise, but now it’s up over 100,000 miles it seems like the entire car needs replacing…
I bought a 1997 R33 Skyline GTST about 10 years ago. It was tastefully modified with genuine GTR and R34 parts and I sold it a couple of years later for $7000. Man oh man I wish I still had it now!!!
I'm not a Subaru fan but mechanics are talking up the labour on changing those belts. It's really not that hard. No engine out, just the radiator. I do agree their parts are way overpriced.
Guy is massively anti-Subaru for whatever reason.. Not saying there aren't valid criticisms including parts $$ , and specific issues ( 2.5 HG' , oil leaks on high mileage cars) . but that segment was hyperbole. They're not hard to work on overall. Honing on on timing belt labour, but ignoring the fact Alternators, PS pumps, AC comp's , serpentine belts, are all 10 min job's to replace unlike so many other cars .
Agree - I have a Forrester and servicing costs are fairly standard compared with other vehicles. Geniune parts and dealer servicing is way over priced though. Local mechanic charged me one third that the dealer quoted to have the serpentine belt done. I've got 230km on the clock and it's running fine.
Appreciate this discussion, advice and facts. Australia are quite similar with Malaysia especially on the driving position, made and models so whatever being discussed here are 100% relevant.
The Nissan Xtrail T33 E-power, TI > delivered for me, tested every other make in the same range of SUV, and bang for buck, torque and power, mix with fuel efficiency, size wins, especially the zero wait compared to the RAV4. I drove the X-trail T32 patrol TI during my NZ road trip, and yeah, no a fan, if that's what was the offer today would pass 100%
the mirage is great for an old person living in an urban/city environment that needs a small, economical, easy to drive shopping trolley with a roof and a/c, does around 1000 ks per year and can take advantage of the 10 year warranty. Bought one for the mother in law for this purpose and she loves it. No issues with it yet. Other use cases, nope. Though I did drive one with around 40,000ks on the clock as a rental - which would have been abused, it was ok around the city.
I've had a 2006 Tiida Latio for eight years. It might be boring compared to more expensive cars and I know it has a gen 1 CVT, but it has always been reliable and pretty good on petrol.
I’ve seen a lot of comments disagreeing with cars they’ve chosen on this list based on looks, but I think that goes to show that that’s what they had to resort to because there aren’t a lot of unreliable ones
I love my Nissan Juke 2013 1.6T has an RS turbo motor, faster than any other 1.6Turbo out there, lots of creature features like full leather heated seats, handles great and I serviced my CVT at 50ish thousand KMS and never has an issue with it yet! Makes people look at you when you twice when you beat them from the lights or stay next to other much sportier cars!
Hey guys love the content and love the cars to avoid/recommend series. Wanna pitch in about my 2015 X trail hybrid. Very decent car and reliable, no major mechanical issues so far. But one of my biggest gripes is the when accelerating from stationary, the transition from electric to petrol power is so janky that the car actually stalls and skips before carrying on! Kinda scary when you want to turn quickly into an intersection!
Cold climates and short trips make the problem much worse for sure but I've heard of it happening in warm climates too. From what I understand as long as you let the engine fully heat up from time to time and you stay on top of your oil changes it isn't a problem. IIRC honda addressed the issue around model year 2018 but it's still something to look out for if you have a short commute and live somewhere with harsh winters.
Most d.i. engines suffer from a bit of oil dilution if they're constantly subjected to short trips. I assume a good spirited drive (when oil is up to temp) every so often gets the oil hot enough that the petrol + condensation evaporates?
my ej20 Subaru legacy has done 380,000kms with no oil or water leaks what so ever with proper servicing , definitely not as bad as every mechanic makes them out to be, easiest engine to do timing belt /alternator or starter motor replacement.Its no Toyota corolla but not that bad in my opinion
I'm not American, but the reason I've heard for the Altima being as you describe there is that Nissan will offer finance to anything with a heartbeat regardless of what their credit score might be, and so they are really popular with people who make extremely bad financial decisions.
I had a MG5 from the rental for holiday in Oz, and the CVT was the worst POS transmittion I have ever experienced, there is NO take off, only high revs. I will never by a CVT car.
Phew we must have dodged a bullet - our first SUV was an '06 3.0LV6 Escape, bought when it was about 12 months old. The V6 went like a shower of shit, and we never had a single issue with it. But - we traded it in after about 4 years and 130,000km so no doubt the subsequent owners got all the fun... One really weird thing about it - it had a three speed column shift auto with pushbutton overdrive. Made it feel like it was straight from black and white TV ... clearly a nod to its US design origins.
love ReDriven. Regarding labels for music as a person making it for years , the labels always came after it was made , long after we had moved on to something else . Labels are for people who need to pigeon hole things , not create them or as is said in Wayne's World , if you label me you negate me .
240ks on a lifted 4 cylinder escape…no issues since owning it from 60k. Has been to the vic high country and various other 4wd destinations…steep hills, sand, creek/river crossings…the whole lot!
We have a 2010 Nissan Maxima 250 ST-L, changed the CVT oil at 60,000 kms (was told oil was very clean) We just hIt 112K kms, checked CVT oil, told it was still in very good shape, at 120,000 kms we will definately change the CVT oil. I also tell me wife, mechanical sympathy! wait till gear is engaged, then slowly take off (esp when reversing out the drive way, then going into drive) and also especially when it's cold. Don't floor it off at the lights. Touch wood it's been great and is actually supremely smooth to drive esp on a highway, I actually love driving it when I need to. We bought it 8 years ago with 35,000 km for just $15,000 ($14,990 drive-away to be precise) from a main Nissan dealer. At the time it was six year old, but shone like a new car. On the servicing, that famous Texan, Scotty Kilmer also mentions that the reasons that Nissan Altimas in the USA fail so much is becuase of chronic service NEGLECT. If the servicing was not so neglected they'd be much more reliable, but becuase of that situation, you just avoid.
6 hours! Noooo, my record for an escape alternater is 45minutes. Just remember to mark the strut lower bolts so you don't have to readjust them, and balance the alternator on the tie rod while you remove the mounting bracket from the engine so the hole under the wheel arch is big enough for it to come out.
Echo and Yaris... the only thing that would go wrong with them would be the paint. Rest of the car is unbreakable. might look like crap, but they will go forever. Like a 120y that doesn't rust. If you want something that will go forever, get and Echo.
When the wrx came up I was a little surprised but then I own a normally aspirated 2008 impreza and love it. Nearly cracked 200k. Not cheap to service however. Grateful that I purchased the theft deterrent version (manual).
Don't buy a Suzuki Grand Vitara MY2010. It has a defective engine top block that cracks at 100,000 km. Once it cracks, engine oil will leak and mix with the coolant and turns into sludge causing the car to overheat. IMHO, it should have been a recall issue but Suzuki replaced it under warranty (labour + parts) if it cracks with 3 years and after that Suzuki will replace parts but not labour after warranty subject to their assessment. The car runs beautifully when everything is OK though.
Was the 2L T affected too? In the UK market there are only 2 engines available in the current Civic, the 2L non-turbo hybrid and the 2L turbo in the R model.
Owned a 2014 Nissan Qashqai for 2 years. Bought it second hand when it was 7 years old. Boot handle snapped off in the supermarket carpark, rear wheel hub failed at 85,000km, and pretty sure the cvt began to show early warning signs. Got rid of it and got a Toyota. I will never buy a Renaussan again.
Cars today are not made like they were in 1970s and 80s I know you only get what you pay but some people have problems I had plenty of Cars no problems If you service your car regularly
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I'd still rather have a 10 year old Mirage than a brand new MG3 💩
The CVT probably isn't great. We have a manual 2014 mirage in the family and it's honestly not bad, yeah everything feels cheap but it has been very reliable and fuel economy is way better than my Yaris
Is the MG3 Japanese?
@@StephenDeTomasiMitsubishi CVT is very reliable. They have been perfecting them since the 90s; far before they merged with Jatco and Nissan. Even under Jatco, Mitsubishi’s CVTs are made using Mitsubishi’s own INVECS III technology. So it’s very reliable. I saw on the news a Mitsubishi Mirage CVt that lasted over 500k miles which broke the record as the longest lasting CVT mirage.
@@StephenDeTomasiI just bought a mint, low km 2013 manual Mirage and I absolutely love it. I’ve owned 47 cars, including 3 1970’s Zs and an R33 Skyline. Yes, it’s basic, but you don’t pay much so I don’t mind.
@@kabdu68a small thing no one realises with these is these are a 3cyl engine so they save about $150 a year on rego. Really cheap to own
My list before watching the video:
1. Any Nissan CVT;
2. Highly modified/thrashed ricers;
3. Mazda RX8;
4. Mazda diesels (thx to this channel);
5. High mileage Camrys;
6. Overpriced Landcruisers et al.
7. Mazda MX-5. Good cars, but I can’t fit in one. 😂
7; Try a NC Mazda Mx5, it's a bit bigger.
I'm over 200 lbs and 6' and for the MX5RF no problem at all
High mileage Camry will still outlast mamy brand new cars 😂
Honda Accord Euro CU2 Series I 2008-2010 start to play up at around 230,000kms. It’s all about sensors failing in sequence. Just when you thought that you fixed it, it fails again.
Here’s a vote for the humble, ugly, Nissan Tiida. The police in South Africa used them extensively as support based vehicles about 15 years back. Every one of them, which were not totalled in accidents, reached over 300k kilometres, before being retired. Absolutely all were horribly abused and driven hard. We have one in our local fleet which is still on active service, because it’s maintenance budget has not yet been depleted. Built like a brick. I have no idea what subframe issues they are referring to.
I bought my daughter one with 70,000 on it, now 220,000 and while it’s very tired cosmetically it’s still running well. I once spoke to an RAC roadside mechanic and he said they’re a great car. Very rare to get a call out for them.
I feel the internet is full of bad comments on Nissan, however I have owned several Nissans and they have all been great, very reliable. I just can't understand all the trash people put on them.
When I lived in Dubai, wealthy Arabs who don't go off road, buy Range Rovers. Those that have money, but like trips to the desert, drive Land Cruisers, those that aren't as wealthy, buy Patrols. Ex pats (Aussies, Brits etc) with families, bought Pajeros. Ex pats that want to drive the dunes on weekends, buy two door short wheel base Pajeros. Most Land Cruisers driven in the desert for a a couple of years have clapped out engines due to dust and sand injection, so Arabs flip them after three years of ownership. The Range Rover dealer has a flat bed recovery vehicle that's seen everywhere with broken down Range Rovers Sports on the back, and yet they still buy them. Used Patrols are very cheap compared to Land Cruisers, but if you buy a three year old Land Cruiser, you'll be paying for an engine rebuild or replacement after a few months. The Patrols seem to be more reliable, but the suspensions need work after a few years.
Odd. If the air filter is clogged it would not run. How does sand get into the engine?
Japanese cars to avoid: Enter Nissan
Anything with a Nissan CVT basically
@@StephenDeTomasi Yeah
anything nissan with a renault engine..
@@thombraam7845what’s wrong with Renault engines? It’s the Nissan cvts you have to worry about
A lot of folks are saying they’ve been improving their CVT for years and it’s actually good now, to that I’d say first of all I wouldn’t want to take the risk for almost zero reward, second of al if your transmission takes decades to get it right and in the mean time you have no problem putting them in your car to sell to people that don’t know about it, you’re a extremely dishonest company and who knows what other corner cutting you’re hiding
well, my "horror story"... i have a 91' toyota corona, now with 1.3 million kms. On 2017, something happened while driving... related to, someone doing an oil change without telling me and using the wrong oil (4A-F engine)... it started rattling, then misfiring, then became a 3 cilinder.... then a 2 cilinder... It was a shitty day, i just wanted to get home so i did... drove about 100kms with the issue (of course not pushing the engine, trying to keep it under 3k rpms)... arrived home, turned it off and went to sleep, next morning i realized there was no oil... it became so thin that it just zipped through the carter plug... (not the best plug either but thats another story)... I filled it up with the correct oil to see if I could make it at least spin... tried once, nothing... tried again... nothing... on the third it not only spun, it turned on... couldnt hold revs, sometimes it shuted off... sometimes it went to 3k rpm out of nowhere...
At least i still had 4 cilinders, i thought to myself. I drove it like 10kms to the shop i usually take my cars and when i arrived the car was absolutely perfect... a bit of a jump at minimum rpms, jumping from 750 to 1000 but nothing more. I explain what happen to the mechanic and he told me "well... gotta open it to see what really happened".... all sparkplugs were oiled up, gunked up, clearly ready to throw away... needed a cilinder head gasket change... the air filter was full of oil so it had to be replaced too... i spent $300... I thought it was a gonner but its now on 1.3million kms... 300k kms added with absolutely no issues since that day.
Surely it's covered under warranty 😅
@@michaelhart5886 100%, a couple of japanese mechanics came at night while i was sleeping and fix everything i broke... their honor was not gonna be questioned haha
That’s wild. 😅. You abused that car but 4A and 3s were hardcore engines. Almost engines in that era were built different.
So the title of this video should really be the “Japanese cars I would not buy because I think they look shit” - rather than what I was expecting “… because they fall apart before your eyes”
Its only because they cant find enough Japanese cars that are mechanically poor to fill out this video haha
Because they’re too vain to be seen in a civilian car
By the way, Honda City's are the weapon of choice for SE Asian housewives. Their husband's buy them for them because they're Hondas, and Hondas have the reputation of being high end sporty cars in Asia. So every time you see one, you basically know the demographic of the driver.
Asian housewife's drive white Audi or Mercedes SUVs.
Sorry guys but I think you're clutching at straws here a bit on this video. Why is the CRV here?! Its a great car for what it is. One of the best in class. Fact is no-one buys an SUV for driving excitement/fun. There is not one SUV on the market that is fun to drive. Also who ever said the Paseo was a performance/sports car. It never was and was never marketed as such. It was sold as a compact good value economical attractive little coupe. They are Japanese built and superbly reliable. No reason to avoid one at all if you're after a good looking reliable little car that is a bit different. Its also notable that quite few of the cars on this list are actually great cars - just need to avoid a certain engine or transmission.
I call BS on not one SUV that is fun to drive. There are heaps of them.
Also the list isn’t ’here’s the most unreliable Japanese cars’.
I bought and sold many Honda CR-V 3 rd gens. Great car, manual 2.4L is fun enough to drive, and good handling.
My cousin and I can also drive it very hard, pedal to the floor, up the hill. Was great fun.
Likewise, I don’t know what these guys are on about
SUVs aren't as good to drive as comparable sedans/hatches.
But some SUVs are much better to drive than average. eg Mazda CX5.
Porsche cayenne and macan as well as their other VW products are actually fun.
I agree they were making their list trashing some cars we find great. Some cars like CRV are made for other purposes than being a fun car. Though I get it’s their personal taste.
Okay, we(I) own (by accident) bought a 2002 V6 Mazda Tribute at 190k 7 years ago and has now just hit 250K - Everything works as new. It was not a planned purchase but just happened as my Mom was planning to move to Aus... Never happened but here we are 7 years later.
I had to replace the alternator a couple of years ago but it's not that hard - I'm 60 and did it in my drive in about 4 hrs. I'm the first to admit you need some decent tools. The largest issue is that you need some extensions and wobbly sockets to get to one of the alternator bolts - might also apply to the alternator mount. 6Hrs is BS. If I was doing it tomorrow it would be 3hrs. NOT a nice job but not that hard.
I must admit I did not expect the Tribute to work as well as it does but it just keeps on going and given we bought it for $1500 7 years ago with 190K so why not keep it. Yep fuel economy isn't great but it uses 91/e10 and is fine on longer runs. It's a big car, what do you expect?
Plastics? I've owned this car for 7 years now, have replaced coil packs and the HP PAS hose so have taken the inlet manifold off a couple of times (an easy hour with 8mm and 10mm sockets) and am really not seeing the issue you allude to. The only "plastic" issue was a small vacuum house which has split near the connection - that was a rubber coupling. It came up with an ODBCII code which was pretty basic back then, e.g. vacuum leak. Fixed with some self amalgamating tape.
You can be lucky or not, but often as not you create your own luck..
I’m gonna have to agree to disagree with the City. Totally unkillable, really quite safe for their size/age and not awful to drive. Admittedly I have a soft spot as I learned to drive in one. But they really arent awful. Plus the boot is effing huge.
Same but i buy used City automatic 5 speed very fuel efficient. The boot very large & maintenance affordable.
Yep. I was thinking the same. It's a reliable car. Not a good looking car but who cares.
Yeah but in a world where the Jazz exists it makes little sense
Honda City is good, but then this point of video I guess are the Japanese cars that they least like, not all exactly because they are the worst. Whats interesting I find here compared to bad Euro cars is that the issues listed isn't all too serious if you keep the maintenance, there are just aesthetics and being just no character to drive. Except for Diesel Mazda and CVTs mostly on old Nissan, but other than that, theyre mostly okay and will likely just last.
While bad Euro cars listed before are just listed so many issues with them to the point that you will question how come people still driving them, since many of those are apparently sounds like money pit.
But yeah back to Honda City, I think that category of cars here just don't make too much sense for Australian market I guess. It's not as compact as Jazz but it's still smaller than regular Civic for not much benefit on our roads. On Southeast Asia, they serve so well because the price difference actually matters as regular Civic is too expensive but may not want as small as Jazz. So it's an odd middle ground.
Tbh, at least that gen of Honda City shown doesn't all look too great to me either aesthetic wise . The proportion looks odd since its trying to be smaller Civic but ended up oddly shaped.
If you can't find a cheap jazz then a cheap city is ok as long as you don't really need a hatch
re: 3rd/4th gen CRV... I'm a car enthusiast but I gotta say, those CRVs are effortless drivers. Like super comfy, reliable, easy to drive and spacious. Objectively a good "Car" despite being boring to some.
I'm watching from Europe and have never owned a CRV but I have to say that that choice also grated with me. You see loads of them on the road and I'm sure they give their owners zero problems. Give me "boring"any day.
I don't know why it's mentioned. Sure, it's not going to thrill you from behind the wheel. But tell me what rival SUV does? SUV's are not for fun. The CRV is a great car for what it is.
For the person who doesn't give any damns about driving dynamics the CR-V is hard to beat. Great mileage, cheap to run and will be as reliable as the sun rising in the East every morning.
Leave the B4 alone, have you even driven one?
They are the weirdest, coolest thing around, the first turbo is great under 4k rpm and the big turbo is great over 5k
We don't speak about the space in between...
I did a 2nd gear pull when I first drove a B4. I remember thinking, "Is that it?" at 3.5k rpm until about 4.5k rolled around, and the car just transformed. That was fun!
I have a 2002 GTB Wagon with the EJ208 twin turbo engine. If the car is dead below 4K your might have an issue. The first turbo starts to boost around 2K and the second one adds on around 4.5K. The redline is 7.5K so if you really want to, you can keep it above 5K to keep both turbos on the boil and avoid the cross over point (the valley of death) where the the transition happens (a turbo engine that likes to rev ;). The Supra, RX7 and the Porsche 959 had similar twin turbo systems, a throwback to an earlier era to try and avoid low RPM lag of a big single turbo. Newer turbo designs, direct injection and higher compression ratios have made these systems complexity moot.
I would have purchased the next gen wagon with the single turbo if I could have imported it at the time, but they did not meet Canada's 15 year rule. Some people have converted twin turbos to single turbo to remove the complexity and open up tuning potential. So far no issues with the twin turbo setup and my car is OLD.
I agree a EVO wagon would be super cool, they are much more expensive, smaller and more hard core as a daily. Still would like to try one.
IDK how you can say the B4 is underwhelming ( amazing chassis and 300hp from the factory). I have a JDM B4 RSK ( first one imported to Canada), those cars are dirt cheap Canada ($3000-5000) but you need regular maintenance and a tune if you don't have 100 octane. My valley of death is not that big and if you know how to down shift it is not an issue. If you upgrade the fuel pump, mod 10, phase 3 and a proper tune you can get 330-340hp and the chassis is great not like VW or Audis lol.
Always a good day when these guys release a new video.
Those Corolla's you mention are actually using a lot of Daihatsu parts, and a lot of "Toyotas" coming out of SE Asian factories are actually rebadged Daihatsu small cars. They are nowhere near as reliable as actual Toyotas built in Japan. People in SE Asia are proud to say they own a Toyota, unaware that it's not really a Toyota.
But Daihatsu is 100% owned by Toyota so at the end of the day it’s also a Toyota. Daihatsu is just cheaper.
Not really, Daihatsu has its own R&D, it's own BOD etc, Daihatsu has just recently been charged with fraud by the Japanese Gov't for falsifying thirty years of safety testing. Toyota has tried to distance itself from the brand. Toyota may well own it, like they own a substantial amount of Subaru, but Daihatsu develops its own cars. Toyota just likes putting their logo on some, so they can sell more in SE Asia, where people love Toyota. The Rush, Vios etc are all Daihatsu developed vehicles, assembled in Asian plants, but with Toyota badges since Daihatsu has no dealerships in most of SE Asia. They do share some parts, but the engines and transmissions, bearings etc are not the same in most cases.
Nissan Altima is a bloody safe car. We we stationary and rear ended by a car at 80km/h. The panel beater was amazed how the car survived and the insurance company had the car repaired. The seats were designed by NASA and are super comfortable. The CVT oil must be changed at 150,000 Km. It was rated as one of the top 10 safest cars in USA in 2014
Those "zero gravity" seats... just *the best!* They're better than the seats in my Infiniti Q70... which I'm kind of salty about actually 🤣
wait the altima wasn’t at fault? that’s new
Putting Lexus SC430 on the list can't be right. It has a legendary engine and the model is THE only hardtop Lexus ever built. Recommend finding a good sample in NSW and do a review. The Car Care Nut thinks it is a hidden gem. I would agree with him as an owner of this beautiful machine.
The only folding hard top do you mean? The IS convertible is also a folding hard top FYI.
I think the problem with these (and given the category it’s being discussed in) is it’s not a ‘performance’ car. They were designed as a luxury convertible. For that they do the job pretty well, but still underwhelming especially at their original price.
Today they’re a bit of a bargain IMO. Probably due to their poor reputation.
Yes, but he is a Toyota/Lexus aficionado and although I enjoy his videos, they are very biased. Top Gear gave the SC430 the worst Car of the Year a few years ago.
@@davidperry3531 Taking anything TG says seriously is a mistake. It's an entertainment show more than anything. They talk a lot cr@p about many cars.
@@jdmguy44 I agree mostly - their views are mostly out of wack with many other commentators but hey, they are getting the controversial responses they want.
@@davidperry3531 well I guess it’s rubbish then? Clarkson doesn’t like 911s, so they’re crap too?
Worth mentioning that CX-7 with 2.5 naturally aspirated IS RELIABLE.
It's almost impossible to find one though.
I'm still surprised to see cx-7 still roaming around where I live (europe)
You either have the diesel engine (problems mentioned in the video, they are probably about the same whether it's skyactiv D or pre-skyactive era) or you have the 2.3 Turbo from Mazda MPS and chances are someone hasn't taken good care of them.
I don't even know if we could ever buy a 2.5 here as the taxes would have been way too high for anyone to even think about buying it. When people buy engines over 2L here (that are non hybrid -> high tax) they're stuff like Bmw or something more premium. No one would bother to endure the taxes on a mazda (good thing their recent 2.5 is mild hybrid, which basically halves the taxes or even better)
The taxes are also pretty fukin high on 2.2D and 2.3 turbo as well. I'm surprised there are people that bought them.
Had one. A 2011 CX7 fwd 2.5. Base model and it had 120,000 kms when I bought it. It was a tank in winter and I was very comfortable in it. My wife hated it and I only got rid of it last year as I picked up a one owner 2016 cx5 with 120,000 kms on it. The cx5 currently sits at 150,000 kms. The cx7 was a little more comfortable and had a bit more leg room for me but the cx5 has more power and better gas mileage and has Bluetooth.
It's a high watermark to disqualify a car based on it's looks. Seriously? How many british and german cars look great on the outside but are money pits inside 😢.
Best thing about the Tribute. Is the availability of a sticker to put above the name badge" This is not the greatest car in the world. It's just a"
Jack Black is taking legal action .
Why is the Yaris Cross?
Because it's put on more weight than the old RAV4.
I love that car but it look bigger than it should be.
I'll disagree heavily with the City, I've riden in the generation shown in this video and driven the two newer generations,all of them were good. The ones I've driven were more than fun enough thru twisties without going ludicrous speeda
I bought a brand new Subaru Outback diesel with the manual gearbox. Worst car ever, sold it a loss to get it out of my life. DPF functionality was downright dangerous as it would cut engine power when the DPF kicked in - I once lost traction on a wet corner in 5th gear under load. Subaru were useless to deal with, even when the engine had to be removed at 50,000km for leaks. Absolute shitbox.
I had the same issues with my 2011 Forester. Got rid of the heap of junk with only 40k kms
Shit what year make was that car?
I recommended a Subaru 2.0D to my sister because of my previous good luck with Subarus. It died on the road due to dpf issues within 6 months and Subaru refused to come to the party. It cause great strain on my relationship with her. Thankfully I have good friends who are excellent lawyers and got her a full refund. Will never touch the brand again.
@@carsella11 oh man....sorry to hear!
@@trentkrikken9873 2015
If there's nothing mechanically wrong with a car, I don't see why we should avoid them. They may look unattractive, but not everyone in life is at a point where they can get an S class.
Because you have to drive it every day!!!! Why buy something that is shit to drive just because it is reliable?
Buy something else that's reliable that you can enjoy driving!!
It’s in the title. They wrote what “they” wouldn’t. Meaning they made their list. On recommended and another agree. It was funny in some parts when one just agree. 😊
@@Bill-ki4zf I have a powerful Land Cruiser prado engine in my van. I love driving it but I now want a car that can save me fuel. Some people just want a car that can get them from A to B and not fun. Just learn to understand and respect other people’s needs.
Because there always is competition, cars that aren't less reliable but offer more car for the money.
@@Bill-ki4zfbecause not everyone value driving experience. Fuel economy, ownership cost, resell value are way more important for many people
"This is not the worst car in the world, this is just a tribute"
V6 Tribute.
Tenacious D 🤟🏽
Give it 10 years, the NC1 NSX will be looked back on as a great car.
People saw it as an overpriced car competing with huracans, R8's etc. But it was more 918 tech at a fraction of the cost.
They keep slagging off Mazda diesels. Had mine (Mazda 2) 8.5 yrs and it runs like a dream. Serviced every 6 months to the day. Replaced 2 batteries, one set of rear shock stops and 1 set of tyres. Averages 4.4li/100km and runs to the local pub & back (15km ea way) can be as low as 2.8li/100km (its twisty turny, narrow and very dark)
The Mazda diesel issues seem to always relate to the 2.2 as per the models mentioned here.
@@jdmguy44 True they did show the Mazda 3, but they said Mazda cant make diesels period and dont buy any at all. They didn't say the 2.2s are crap but the 1.5 is OK.
Is that definitely a Mazda diesel?
@@mattdebyl8806 What do you mean by that? What are you questioning?
@@csjrogerson2377 I've never personally heard of any issues with the 1.5 diesel fitted to the 2/CX3. They were sold here in the UK for a few years and withdrawn. I actually have a Mazda 2 (2018 model) with the Skyactiv 1.5 petrol. It's been great all round. Now used as a second car.
These are entry level cars. Don’t bother buying one if you can afford the higher level where you can expect better quality and performance but other people opted these cars because of their budget. We don’t have the same level of financial stability
I agree with the C-HR, but for different reasons.
In Europe we have a 180hp 2.0 hybrid, which sounds perfect on paper. It has pretty good power, but holy shit it sounds terrible. It's loud even when cruising at city speeds, it vibrates a lot, it's just annoying (much more so than the painfully slow 1.8 hybrid).
Drivetrain calibration is also horrible. You can't smoothly inch ahead for example when parking. It either stops, or gets going too quickly. People also like to mention how you can feel the transition between regenerative braking and friction braking. I've driven plenty of hybrids and electric cars and none of them are this bad. Toyota has been making hybrids for 20 years and yet the completely messed up the calibration on this. It's not blended at all. It's like I have x amount of braking at y pedal pressure, then I move on to 1.01 * y on the pedal pressure and I get 1.5x braking force. Then you go back to y pedal pressure and you lose half you braking power. You get into a yo-yo because you can't get it to behave properly. It's scary.
Interior quality? What's that? Driver's door panel rattles since day 1. Dash rattles from month 1. Something INSIDE THE DASH behind the gauge cluster rattles from month 6. Dealers are useless at fixing any of this.
Other issues? Yes. The rear brakes are dragging which sounds embarrassing when you are driving slowly. CV shafts click when you transition from braking to power. The car is ~15 months old with 30k km. It's falling apart. Again, dealers are useless when it comes to fixing any of it.
Before anyone accuses me of expecting a Toyota to behave like a Rolls Royce, let me share some of the cars I've owned (or owned by family). MK1 Ford Focus, Ford C-Max, R53 Mini Cooper S (famous for rattles, but is way less annoying than the C-HR), Nissan Leaf (good comparison for braking and creeping in traffic), Renault Megane MK3. No Rolls Royce or Bentley here...
The C-HR is hugely overrated and I don't understand why.
Review idea - 9th gen Civic. Severely underrated for sheer bang for buck, and as an owner of a 2014 example with 68,000kms they are just great
The Paseo is not a performance car. It's a Starlet that's less practical. But, it's actually a really good car. It rides brilliantly for what it is, it weighs 900kg so it actually feels a lot faster than it could, and it can get 50mpg, or 5.6l/100km.
An old work friend of mine had one for years, we thought it was a joke. When he put it up for sale, I took it for a drive - I was converted, and bought it. Utterly love the thing. If you get a chance to drive one, I recommend it. To me it's a hidden gem.
I agree fully; love driving ours! :)
I worked at a Honda dealership for 15 years, and 90% of people who bought a City were people of Indian descent. Sorry to say, but when they were traded in, they smelt like a papadam 😅
😂
I have 2013 Mirage since new, manual, never an issue, easy to do the basics, same economy as a prius for 1/3 the price.
Mechanic says its still like new.
Great run around and easy to park, whats not to like!
Happy for you guys to review if you like..
The cvt version maybe?..
Adam, you mispronounced Continuously Vulnerable Transmission, but other than that wee oversight, brilliant video as always.
In the performance car section you mentioned the BRZ/GT86 twins, I'm 90% sure that the sealant in the oil pickup issue/ bad sump design is only with the new 2022+ BRZ/GR86 not the first gen or the facelift.
Yeah, I'm looking at a first gen 86 / BRZ, probably around a 2012-2015 model. I haven't heard of this issue before and also ReDriven didn't cover this in their review. Is this only in newer models and do you have any sources? Cheers mate 👍
Actually given what they said, this issue would either be fixed, or if not fixed would cause engine failure in the long term. So buying a second hand car that has already been drive for a while, guessing this shouldn't be an issue for them. 🤔
It seems to only be an issue with the newer 2.4L models. The older 2.0L did have a couple recalls though so ensure they have been done.
@@eternalkingofwesteros Okay that's good to hear, I do remember there were some recalls, so I'll make sure to double check that before purchasing, cheers mate 👍
@@coachjohn2190given how many of these I’ve seen with either a stuffed engine or had the engine replaced, I’d suggest there is definitely some oil starvation issues going on with them as well.
Bit harsh on the Escape/Tribute. Mrs had a Tribute and I'm the 2nd owner of a a '01 V6 Escape with 290,000kms. Has a few creaks and rattles but great daily driver and I can load it up with a full PA system and guitar rig. They're not that hard to work on. Parts readily available and relatively cheap.
Agreed, I had one for eight years and went 200 thousand kms in it. It had a rear seal leak by the time I sold it but other than that it was solid.
lmao I own a Honda City. The boot is really deep, it’s cheap to maintain, and very fuel efficient. I also have very little interest in cars in general - so you hit that nail on the head.
But what are you doing here then?🙃😂
@@Luke-PlanesTrainsDogsnCars I subscribed to this channel when I was looking for reviews of second-hand cars. They still put out really good content.
Working as a carsalesperon. A CX-7 went 47,000km from new... it went that long with not a single service.... not even the complimentary 1500km service.
Then the engine blew up, it's a detuned version of engine that was in the Mazda 6 Turbo...the Tibeca was always horrendous hahaha
is the 2019 Infiniti Q50 (sports auto, rear wheel drive, 45,000km to 55,000km odometer) a good car to buy servicing-wise, and keep for next 5 years? It’s already almost about to go on its 7th year
We had 2 Toyota Yaris sedan, one manual and one auto. They were very reliable. Very spacious passenger compartment with a massive boot. The metallic grey was perfect even after 13 years of use. The only part changed in all the years was a parking lamp... apart from tires and battery. It returned the same fuel efficiency as the day one. Except for the engine power it was a great car.
The c-hr with the 2.0 litre should be a better car than the 1.8?
The Ford Escape four cylinder was a great car. We had two over a period of nine years, starting with the series 2 then trading up to the series 3. Never missed a beat, nicely featured, took them both up to 80-90K. We'd have traded up to another but Ford Australia discontinued it for the Kuga (I think) and the prices also started getting stupid. By the time they brought the Escape nameplate back we were Mitsubishi ASX converts.
You are so right about the versa/Tiida. When I got it they had welded the bushing on the left side and not knowing what had happened i thought it was a bad lower arm on the right side since the right side was moving. The car would suddenly change direction. Had to purchase an entire subframe to replace it as the subframe bushing were not available
YES! I've been watching you for over a year now from across the ditch in NZ. These alot of content like this in America, but not in anywhere else close to NZ. Its good to see somewhere close to NZ with these type of reviews that your channel provides. I'm enjoying the variety. Awesome work guys, even though you're bloody Aussie!
Another thing. I'm really enjoying seeing more of Jim. Yes I enjoy watching Adam hop in back seats and boots of cars etc, but I believe Jim is more of a natural presenter. Jim has lacked confidence, but very noticeable now has come out of his shell alot. Jim has got such an awesome radio voice and I couldn't listen to him for him for hours!
I've noticed cars in NZ are practically the same in Australia, but listening to you guys the demographics of the cars can vary I'm needing a small hatchback. Yes i care a little about image. I thinking a 1.5L would be more ideal size for performance and economy. I'm exactly 2 inches shorter, than known drummer and pretentious coffee drinker Adam. Two cars catch my eye are being good drivers cars. 1. The Honda Jazz which is mostly driven here buy elderly woman...yes even the RS sport model. 2. The Suzuki Swift that is mainly driven buy young mums and some elderly. As a wild card I think I may even consider a Toyota Aqua. I like the Aqua looks, great economy, performance isn't bad I heard.
Can I have some assistance please on the best choice for me. I like cars, and I'm really clueless on which is the best car here 😅
Surprised that a Kiwi asked for someone else’s opinion! If you have the money, get a MB GLA (preferably AMG) or an MB GLC. If you want the cheaper end of the market, go electric, or for petrol, go the Swift. I think, for what it is worth, that your observations are insightful. Can’t beat the Swift for a basic little chuck about though. Cheers mateq
I have the FB20 engine in a basic 2014 manual Forester, I agree about the oil consumption, it was a surprise & look at the dipstick weekly, car is serviced at the correct time interval but am a fairly low mileage driver & it is used gently.Over the years & 180,000km, I've only topped it up twice & had one oil warning display, it took on a litre of oil to bring it back to normal.
I've got a 2007 Tida with 64k on the clock. Only driven by a little old lady to church on Sundays (my Mum). It is a really comfortable car to drive, runs on the smell of an oily rag and has been serviced regularly. Not bad for $4500.
Please add chapters to the video. Thx
The “euro cars to avoid” video is 15 minutes shorter 😂
What Paseos are really great for is being a donor car for a 5EFE swap into an EP91 Starlet. You can also pinch their seat bases for a cheap seat lowering mod, and their cluster for a tacho conversion.
Thanks for that lads, as is usually the case I love the banter you two have, sometimes cutting but always funny.
Many thanks for the video.
Thanks mate!
4 years ago I bought a Forester Diesel 2010 as the first iteration of a diesel boxer for Subaru, 70K kms of city/highway driving later (now at 200K kms) I've had no engine, dpf, or gearbox issues. Other than a couple of pulleys, a ball joint, a clutch, and a rear differential; it's been purring a long at 6.4l/100km
Same here with my 2013. No troubles save rear shocks (which surprised me).
I love my Tiida. Its the ultimate "still running ok" shitbox. Looks awful, never misses a beat. I love the shitbox, I don't care flex. 130k km, costs me nothing.
CHR from Toyota is a great car with successful sales. If it suits your space needs, buy it. I turned the video off when they mentioned CHR. If you tell people to avoid this then you have no idea what you are saying.
They said it's a good car. Just underwhelming performance
@@lindsaywebb1904 which is also false. It's a fast car (0-100 in 7,2s) for a family car and extremely economical. Featuring this car in a "the worst Japanese car" video is absolutely nonsense.
Pity it looks hideous
@@mical8969 that's why it was incredible successful in sales. It's an absolutely gorgeous design. Maybe your problem is that you couldn't afford it?
Those late model Mitsubishi Mirage cars are actually a South East Asian model and not even available in Japan. They’re manufactured in Philippines and Thailand only iirc.
They're also not that bad if you get them in a manual variant. Excellent on fuel and very simple and reliable cars. They can be found used for $5k easily
Camry 2006 - 2012? Have a 2010, done 160k, regular service, everything works fine, it just goes and goes. Very comfortable, and looks new inside. Economy is good on the highway, but gets high around town compared to a new corolla we just hired on holidays. Last service needed front wheel bearings, its first repair ever. Other than usual filters, brake pads, tyres and battery nothing else.
I had a 2007 Camry from near new. Very reliable but wallowed about at the sight of a corner or bumps. I spent money on wheels and shocks etc... but I think it was just a crap chassis. Passengers got nauseous on windy roads no matter who actually drove. Fine on the motorway. Kept it for years but never liked it to drive. The most disappointing car I've owned.
My wife owns the 2005 Ford ZB Escape, same as what you guys showed. It is the 4 Cyl version and we have had to change an alternator, power steering pressure pipe, engine mount and it leaks oil but it is a damn great car with 360,000km on it. It is really nice to drive, handles great and very comfortable, plus pretty good on fuel. I have heard a lot of bad about the V6 version. Love my Pajero, most under rated 4wd in my opinion. Mine is 22 years old with 315,000km and it is having issues from things wearing out but it is still a brilliant vehicle. I never want to own anything else.
The Toyota 2AZ engine, had a Camry with zero problems that has done well over 200,000kms. Had a Tarago with the same engine and it had catastrophic engine failure due to oil consumption before 130,000kms. Both serviced on time every time.
My Mum has a Toyota C-HR, the point you guys made about the back seats making you feel like you’ve been abducted is absolutely true! 😭🤣
Oh and here’s a challenge - why not do 4WD Ute buy or avoid episodes and see which one of you ends up with the horses head in your bed first - that segment is a dangerous space to play in 🐎🐎
My 2000 Mazda 626 wagon was super reliable, had for 15yrs from 80k-280k. One fuel pump, wiper motor and clutch master cylinder in last year, that was it for unexpected faults. Suspect it was still on original clutch as I never replaced it. In manual form power is OK for sensible passing on open road, 1.8 corolla is quicker but has smaller boot.
Always love your videos but you finally got personal with a car I own...
Echo sedan yes is the ugly duckling of the lineup, however they all come with the 1.5 which is only reserved for the Sportivo variant in hatch form (which I also own) but sedan is actually lighter than the hatch. So essentially the sedan is a sleeper Sportivo with 4 doors.
Totally agree with paint however haha!
Yes I hv a manual and 2nd gear near red line zone is 100km better than a lot of sprts cars multi fold the value unbelivable! Note not into red zone yet!
finally, a video that you actually recommend us to avoid! thank you!!
Hawkeye Impreza WRX owner here with the EJ25. No argument from me that it’s an ownership prospect to avoid. I love the looks, sounds and driving experience. I just wish I hadn’t been paying for it for the last year and a half 😅 In it’s defence, the first 2-3 years were pretty reasonable, cost wise, but now it’s up over 100,000 miles it seems like the entire car needs replacing…
I bought a 1997 R33 Skyline GTST about 10 years ago. It was tastefully modified with genuine GTR and R34 parts and I sold it a couple of years later for $7000. Man oh man I wish I still had it now!!!
I'm not a Subaru fan but mechanics are talking up the labour on changing those belts. It's really not that hard. No engine out, just the radiator. I do agree their parts are way overpriced.
Guy is massively anti-Subaru for whatever reason.. Not saying there aren't valid criticisms including parts $$ , and specific issues ( 2.5 HG' , oil leaks on high mileage cars) . but that segment was hyperbole. They're not hard to work on overall. Honing on on timing belt labour, but ignoring the fact Alternators, PS pumps, AC comp's , serpentine belts, are all 10 min job's to replace unlike so many other cars .
As a mechanic I live doing sohc Subaru timing belts. Radiator out and you can knock them over in 2 hrs total. Love it
My wife has an imprezza. She runs it through he'll and it still works.
Agree - I have a Forrester and servicing costs are fairly standard compared with other vehicles. Geniune parts and dealer servicing is way over priced though. Local mechanic charged me one third that the dealer quoted to have the serpentine belt done. I've got 230km on the clock and it's running fine.
I had a Tiida with a 1.8 6 sp manual and was fun n very zippy. Sold it at 116k n never missed a beat
Appreciate this discussion, advice and facts. Australia are quite similar with Malaysia especially on the driving position, made and models so whatever being discussed here are 100% relevant.
The Nissan Xtrail T33 E-power, TI > delivered for me, tested every other make in the same range of SUV, and bang for buck, torque and power, mix with fuel efficiency, size wins, especially the zero wait compared to the RAV4.
I drove the X-trail T32 patrol TI during my NZ road trip, and yeah, no a fan, if that's what was the offer today would pass 100%
You should rename the channel mordrivel.
the mirage is great for an old person living in an urban/city environment that needs a small, economical, easy to drive shopping trolley with a roof and a/c, does around 1000 ks per year and can take advantage of the 10 year warranty. Bought one for the mother in law for this purpose and she loves it. No issues with it yet. Other use cases, nope. Though I did drive one with around 40,000ks on the clock as a rental - which would have been abused, it was ok around the city.
I've had a 2006 Tiida Latio for eight years. It might be boring compared to more expensive cars and I know it has a gen 1 CVT, but it has always been reliable and pretty good on petrol.
I’ve seen a lot of comments disagreeing with cars they’ve chosen on this list based on looks, but I think that goes to show that that’s what they had to resort to because there aren’t a lot of unreliable ones
I love my Nissan Juke 2013 1.6T has an RS turbo motor, faster than any other 1.6Turbo out there, lots of creature features like full leather heated seats, handles great and I serviced my CVT at 50ish thousand KMS and never has an issue with it yet! Makes people look at you when you twice when you beat them from the lights or stay next to other much sportier cars!
Hey guys love the content and love the cars to avoid/recommend series. Wanna pitch in about my 2015 X trail hybrid. Very decent car and reliable, no major mechanical issues so far. But one of my biggest gripes is the when accelerating from stationary, the transition from electric to petrol power is so janky that the car actually stalls and skips before carrying on! Kinda scary when you want to turn quickly into an intersection!
Doesn’t the L15 turbo oil dilution problem only apply to vehicles in cold climates?
Cold climates and short trips make the problem much worse for sure but I've heard of it happening in warm climates too. From what I understand as long as you let the engine fully heat up from time to time and you stay on top of your oil changes it isn't a problem. IIRC honda addressed the issue around model year 2018 but it's still something to look out for if you have a short commute and live somewhere with harsh winters.
Most d.i. engines suffer from a bit of oil dilution if they're constantly subjected to short trips. I assume a good spirited drive (when oil is up to temp) every so often gets the oil hot enough that the petrol + condensation evaporates?
my ej20 Subaru legacy has done 380,000kms with no oil or water leaks what so ever with proper servicing , definitely not as bad as every mechanic makes them out to be, easiest engine to do timing belt /alternator or starter motor replacement.Its no Toyota corolla but not that bad in my opinion
I'm not American, but the reason I've heard for the Altima being as you describe there is that Nissan will offer finance to anything with a heartbeat regardless of what their credit score might be, and so they are really popular with people who make extremely bad financial decisions.
I had a MG5 from the rental for holiday in Oz, and the CVT was the worst POS transmittion I have ever experienced, there is NO take off, only high revs. I will never by a CVT car.
TYPES OF SUVs: Micro SUV, Sub compact SUV, Compact SUV, compact crossover SUV, full size SUV, coupé SUV, Luxury SUV, off roader SUV.
you are wrong on the 4th gen crv absolutely excellent chassis! especially with the grunty 2.2td
Phew we must have dodged a bullet - our first SUV was an '06 3.0LV6 Escape, bought when it was about 12 months old. The V6 went like a shower of shit, and we never had a single issue with it. But - we traded it in after about 4 years and 130,000km so no doubt the subsequent owners got all the fun...
One really weird thing about it - it had a three speed column shift auto with pushbutton overdrive. Made it feel like it was straight from black and white TV ... clearly a nod to its US design origins.
Hi from Kenya. We get most of these cars from JPN and, honestly, you're spot on! Especially the Atenza(s), Mazda 6 diesels.
love ReDriven. Regarding labels for music as a person making it for years , the labels always came after it was made , long after we had moved on to something else . Labels are for people who need to pigeon hole things , not create them or as is said in Wayne's World , if you label me you negate me .
240ks on a lifted 4 cylinder escape…no issues since owning it from 60k. Has been to the vic high country and various other 4wd destinations…steep hills, sand, creek/river crossings…the whole lot!
Absolutely love these videos.
Guys, why not do a road trip in a cheap car.
That’d be a great laugh.
Big love from the UK 🇬🇧🫶
We have a 2010 Nissan Maxima 250 ST-L, changed the CVT oil at 60,000 kms (was told oil was very clean) We just hIt 112K kms, checked CVT oil, told it was still in very good shape, at 120,000 kms we will definately change the CVT oil. I also tell me wife, mechanical sympathy! wait till gear is engaged, then slowly take off (esp when reversing out the drive way, then going into drive) and also especially when it's cold. Don't floor it off at the lights. Touch wood it's been great and is actually supremely smooth to drive esp on a highway, I actually love driving it when I need to. We bought it 8 years ago with 35,000 km for just $15,000 ($14,990 drive-away to be precise) from a main Nissan dealer. At the time it was six year old, but shone like a new car.
On the servicing, that famous Texan, Scotty Kilmer also mentions that the reasons that Nissan Altimas in the USA fail so much is becuase of chronic service NEGLECT. If the servicing was not so neglected they'd be much more reliable, but becuase of that situation, you just avoid.
I actually do like the SC430 and new NSX.
SC430s are cool. Fugly from the front, but quite attractive everywhere else. Were very expensive new, but very very well made.
6 hours! Noooo, my record for an escape alternater is 45minutes. Just remember to mark the strut lower bolts so you don't have to readjust them, and balance the alternator on the tie rod while you remove the mounting bracket from the engine so the hole under the wheel arch is big enough for it to come out.
Echo and Yaris... the only thing that would go wrong with them would be the paint. Rest of the car is unbreakable. might look like crap, but they will go forever. Like a 120y that doesn't rust. If you want something that will go forever, get and Echo.
"ya mum's house" was so outta pocket LOOOOOL
Gonna have to disagree with the city. It’s not even comparable with the jazz.
Overland conversion on cars is pretty cringe
Depends on the car and if it actually get used as such or it’s a mall crawler.
When the wrx came up I was a little surprised but then I own a normally aspirated 2008 impreza and love it. Nearly cracked 200k. Not cheap to service however. Grateful that I purchased the theft deterrent version (manual).
Don't buy a Suzuki Grand Vitara MY2010. It has a defective engine top block that cracks at 100,000 km.
Once it cracks, engine oil will leak and mix with the coolant and turns into sludge causing the car to overheat.
IMHO, it should have been a recall issue but Suzuki replaced it under warranty (labour + parts) if it cracks with 3 years and after that Suzuki will replace parts but not labour after warranty subject to their assessment. The car runs beautifully when everything is OK though.
Honda did fix the oil dilution issues with the 1.5L somewhere around 2020
Was the 2L T affected too?
In the UK market there are only 2 engines available in the current Civic, the 2L non-turbo hybrid and the 2L turbo in the R model.
I've got 1.5 turbo 2018. Had it for a year now, and I have it checked now and then for that reason. Touch wood, no issues at all.
Please let us know if you have a Toyota Corolla 2019 with a CVT how often should you service them Please... Thanks ahead.
CVT (Toyota only) fluid replacement at 100k ....unless U drive it hard (60k)🤔.
...my 2 cents...
6 years or 80k klms which ever comes first
Owned a 2014 Nissan Qashqai for 2 years. Bought it second hand when it was 7 years old. Boot handle snapped off in the supermarket carpark, rear wheel hub failed at 85,000km, and pretty sure the cvt began to show early warning signs. Got rid of it and got a Toyota. I will never buy a Renaussan again.
SC430 is the car in the opening scene of Terminator 3. The lady Terminator (a Norwegian model) was super gorgeous and definitely below 55 years of age
The later 2AR 2.5l engine in Camrys are just as 2AZ for oil burning, and they have the cold start rattle from the VVT gear.
Cars today are not made like they were in 1970s and 80s
I know you only get what you pay but some people have problems
I had plenty of Cars no problems
If you service your car regularly