I've got some Black Pearl binding coming Wednesday! I have an old Banjo that had a pealing and chipped veneer back. (1920's or 1930's I'm guessing, by it's construction.) So I cut a VERY custom new Birch veneer, with VERY custom inlay cut out of Cherry. I will be giving this as a gift to my favorite musician, who once mentioned to me that they'd like to try their hand at a Banjo. I will reveal the name of the person after it is received, so as not to spoil the surprise. I will be coming back to this video again to make sure I get this right! Thanks again for sharing!
Thanks for the comment! I’m interested to know so be sure to let me know how it goes. I’m really glad you found the video helpful. Cellulose binding is actually easier to bend and heat shape than ABS so I’m sure you’ll be fine my friend. Let me know if you have any questions 👍
I stumbled across your channel a couple of weeks ago (your reimagined Les Paul…!) What a relaxed, good-humoured and informative presentation style you embody and what elegant stylish instruments you create! Thanks for your video output, I most certainly will be watching! 🍷🍷🥰🥰🎸🎸
I have to say that your videos are extremely good. The way you explain your methods and processes in that soothing British accent is perfect. This binding trick with acetone instead of glue is great. Thank you for taking the time for us. You are a great teacher.
Nice work! May I ask what your binding material is? Thank you! Scratch that just found the answer below! BUT... I test glued a piece of ABS plastic to a piece of wood and 4 hours later I could "pop" it right off the wood. Ideas? The ABS was a printout from a 3D printer. Was that the problem? Thanks again!
Hi Jeff, the material I used in this is ABS, the technique also works fine for celluloid. I tried glue once a few years ago and decided I didn’t want to do that because it was so messy compared to this technique. The acetone actually dissolves the binding temporarily which is why I think it gives such a good bond and works so well for joining. I also haven’t had a piece delaminate ever using acetone. Having said that I don’t really have any glued bound guitars to compare it to. I wouldn’t think the 3d printed ABS would be any different but I may be wrong, the easiest way to know if this method will work is just to take a little bit of your binding and drop it into acetone, if it starts dissolving straight away it will be fine to use.
@TornelliGuitars Thank you for that info. Yes I'm thinking the abs, after being processed (melted then solidifying again), may have changed the structure, or I didn't allow enough time to cure.
I've just bound a ridiculous travel electric guitar thing I've made. I didn't really watch tutorials, but I've just been binge watching them after doing it and it's become clear that, as always, I made things WAY too hard for myself. I opted for the thickest binding, which made the bending for the four hard corners (a paddle shape) much longer and difficult. Also, I was applying it to a guitar with an epoxy/wallpaper top and back. This made scraping/flushing as hard as it could be too. Totally nightmare and VERY time consuming for a guitar that will probably make a better cricket bat than an instrument. :)
@@TornelliGuitars I seriously hope so sir. I’ll come back to your video as a reference point when I do. I’ve a full tele to do in the exact same way first. This was the dry run. Which was massively needed. There’s all sorts of issues working with those epoxy tops throws up.
Just curious of the acetone, what type of acetone do you use? I work at a Buildersware and we also sell the CureIt acetone, I assume it might be the wrong one as it is very strong or tooo strong for guitar binding... What type of acetone do I need to get?
@@HENNINGRAS hi Hening, I just bought a can at the local hardware store that was labelled pure acetone, I’m not sure what type it is. I’ve used a few and they all seem to work the same, I haven’t noticed a difference. Sorry I couldn’t be more help.
hi, some luthiers heating their binding to bend, wanted to ask why you're cutting it on tight curved areas?, is it much better than heating/bending? thanks
Thanks for the question. I only cut the binding where the edge is very sharp. If there is just a curve I will always heat and bend the binding. This way I have less risk of ending up with gaps between the binding and body on the sharp curve.
i just did a telen body using stewmac plastic cream binding with acetone it didn't adhear had to use bind all there glue what binding are you using and where idi ya get it
Hi Mark, I use anything labelled ABS plastic and I tend to buy from TLC Guitar goods. But ABS binding is the stuff you’ll find on Amazon and EBay all the time, it’s the most common. I don’t have any experience of the stew Mac binding but I’m surprised it didn’t adhere. Did you test a piece of the biding by applying some acetone to check if it started to dissolve?
Make yourself an auxiliary base for the laminate trimmer that is wider and longer than what you have, it will stabilize the router and eliminate the chance of it tipping and ruining the cut. Just my 2 cents.
This comment is always the link to my latest vid, please enjoy!…
ruclips.net/video/C4qDcLSQ-xo/видео.htmlsi=XiXaeHKK8qjxK8sa
Binding adds that special touch to the guitar
I've got some Black Pearl binding coming Wednesday!
I have an old Banjo that had a pealing and chipped veneer back. (1920's or 1930's I'm guessing, by it's construction.)
So I cut a VERY custom new Birch veneer, with VERY custom inlay cut out of Cherry.
I will be giving this as a gift to my favorite musician, who once mentioned to me that they'd like to try their hand at a Banjo.
I will reveal the name of the person after it is received, so as not to spoil the surprise.
I will be coming back to this video again to make sure I get this right!
Thanks again for sharing!
Thanks for the comment! I’m interested to know so be sure to let me know how it goes. I’m really glad you found the video helpful. Cellulose binding is actually easier to bend and heat shape than ABS so I’m sure you’ll be fine my friend. Let me know if you have any questions 👍
@@TornelliGuitars Will do!
Banjo back is about 305mm diameter, so bend should be easy as pie!
I stumbled across your channel a couple of weeks ago (your reimagined Les Paul…!) What a relaxed, good-humoured and informative presentation style you embody and what elegant stylish instruments you create! Thanks for your video output, I most certainly will be watching! 🍷🍷🥰🥰🎸🎸
Very good, very thorough tutorial! How and why explained in an exceptionally clear way.
Thanks Duane, I appreciate the feedback!👍
I have to say that your videos are extremely good. The way you explain your methods and processes in that soothing British accent is perfect. This binding trick with acetone instead of glue is great. Thank you for taking the time for us. You are a great teacher.
Thanks Adam that’s really kind, I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment!👍
I have always been curious about doing bindings on guitars.
This is the best, most informative video I've seen to date!
Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for taking the time to leave a kind comment!👍
Excellent presentation and thanks for sharing.
Interesting and useful, especially seeing the hard cuts joined seamlessly. All good things to tuck behind my ear :)
Btw, good call on the name change - something I really ought to do 😂
@@fatpotanga thanks x2, glad it was of some use! 👍
Thanks for the excellent demo and very clear explanations!
You’re welcome! Thanks for the kind comment 👍
I haven’t done any binding on a guitar yet, but plan to at some stage. This video is very helpful!
Thanks for the kind comment 👍
I was just about to say the same thing. Thanks, Giacomo!
@@bhartissimo thanks Bhart, hope it’s some use to you! 👍
Wonderful video!!
Nice work! May I ask what your binding material is? Thank you! Scratch that just found the answer below! BUT... I test glued a piece of ABS plastic to a piece of wood and 4 hours later I could "pop" it right off the wood. Ideas? The ABS was a printout from a 3D printer. Was that the problem?
Thanks again!
Hi Jeff, the material I used in this is ABS, the technique also works fine for celluloid. I tried glue once a few years ago and decided I didn’t want to do that because it was so messy compared to this technique. The acetone actually dissolves the binding temporarily which is why I think it gives such a good bond and works so well for joining. I also haven’t had a piece delaminate ever using acetone. Having said that I don’t really have any glued bound guitars to compare it to. I wouldn’t think the 3d printed ABS would be any different but I may be wrong, the easiest way to know if this method will work is just to take a little bit of your binding and drop it into acetone, if it starts dissolving straight away it will be fine to use.
@TornelliGuitars Thank you for that info. Yes I'm thinking the abs, after being processed (melted then solidifying again), may have changed the structure, or I didn't allow enough time to cure.
Cool! I have to try this on one project! Nice video!
Thanks Lars, I like your new logo btw 👍
@@TornelliGuitars thank you! I'm tying to look like a bit more professional!
Great video!
Thanks for taking the time to leave a kind comment, I really appreciate it 👍
Beautiful work!
Thanks for the kind comment 👍
Good job!
Just a question. Is the same binding strip type used on the body than the one used for the fretboard?
Regards!
Thanks, and yes it is the same binding 👍
Thanks so much for this video!!!
@@wiggsan thanks for taking the time to leave a kind comment!😀👍
Very helpful video. Thank you.
You’re welcome, thanks for the kind comment! 👍
I've just bound a ridiculous travel electric guitar thing I've made. I didn't really watch tutorials, but I've just been binge watching them after doing it and it's become clear that, as always, I made things WAY too hard for myself. I opted for the thickest binding, which made the bending for the four hard corners (a paddle shape) much longer and difficult. Also, I was applying it to a guitar with an epoxy/wallpaper top and back. This made scraping/flushing as hard as it could be too. Totally nightmare and VERY time consuming for a guitar that will probably make a better cricket bat than an instrument. :)
😂 well you certainly set yourself a challenge and I’d say if you can do that then a normal curvy wooden guitar body will be a breeze!
@@TornelliGuitars I seriously hope so sir. I’ll come back to your video as a reference point when I do. I’ve a full tele to do in the exact same way first. This was the dry run. Which was massively needed. There’s all sorts of issues working with those epoxy tops throws up.
That’s beautiful
Thank you!👍
0:46 Can i know the name of the tool? I want to get one. Thank you.
Hi, the router is a Makita trim router, and I’m using a binding router bit set (1.5mm) to cut the channel. 👍
@@TornelliGuitarsthanks bro. have a nice day
cool video! How do you get the sanding marks off the binding?
Thanks, I just give them a light run over with some 600 grit paper before finishing.
@@TornelliGuitars thanks for the answer
Just curious of the acetone, what type of acetone do you use?
I work at a Buildersware and we also sell the CureIt acetone, I assume it might be the wrong one as it is very strong or tooo strong for guitar binding...
What type of acetone do I need to get?
@@HENNINGRAS hi Hening, I just bought a can at the local hardware store that was labelled pure acetone, I’m not sure what type it is. I’ve used a few and they all seem to work the same, I haven’t noticed a difference. Sorry I couldn’t be more help.
Why you didn't "immobile" body before routing?
Can you paint with nitro paint afterwards or will the binding be ruined?
@@donatochirianni5882 yes you can paint straight over the binding 👍
hi, some luthiers heating their binding to bend, wanted to ask why you're cutting it on tight curved areas?, is it much better than heating/bending? thanks
Thanks for the question. I only cut the binding where the edge is very sharp. If there is just a curve I will always heat and bend the binding. This way I have less risk of ending up with gaps between the binding and body on the sharp curve.
i just did a telen body using stewmac plastic cream binding with acetone it didn't adhear had to use bind all there glue what binding are you using and where idi ya get it
Hi Mark, I use anything labelled ABS plastic and I tend to buy from TLC Guitar goods. But ABS binding is the stuff you’ll find on Amazon and EBay all the time, it’s the most common. I don’t have any experience of the stew Mac binding but I’m surprised it didn’t adhere. Did you test a piece of the biding by applying some acetone to check if it started to dissolve?
Make yourself an auxiliary base for the laminate trimmer that is wider and longer than what you have, it will stabilize the router and eliminate the chance of it tipping and ruining the cut. Just my 2 cents.
I have! And you’re right it works great!👍
that body shape is so sick! is that a design of yours?
Thanks buddy, yes that’s my design 👍
@@TornelliGuitars thats sick! really cool, the binding came out amazing as well
how long do you wait before removing the tape?
About 20 minutes just to be safe and make sure it’s properly bonded. It will be pretty much solid after 10 minutes but I always leave it longer.
@@TornelliGuitars thanks for the speedy response. I'll start removing now then!