I know this video is older, but I own a propeller and skeg repair facility and was curiously looking around when I came upon this vid. Some great information for sure. One thing I wanted to mention. We've repaired more skegs than I can count. One thing I have my customers shy away from is the guards. With no guard, you hit something, a piece of the skeg breaks off. You can get it repaired for relatively cheap. However, the worst skeg repairs I see come from customers that use the guards. They bolt through the skeg and usually they're made of steel. So when you hit something, instead of the skeg breaking, it pulls that bolted steel guard along with the skeg and more often than not, much more of the lower unit comes with it. Skeg guards are responsible for 50% or more of our casing repairs. That being said, the guards will work great for brushing off things like small rocks, wood pieces floating in the water, etc.... With no guard, those small rocks and whatnot would cause damage to the skeg. I don't want to say don't use them, just know what will happen if you end up hitting bottom or something else pretty hard while having a guard on.
@@AJKammerer it would just be the same as using it if only a small chunk was missing from skeg. It will work, given there's enough skeg left to attach it to firmly. If it was my boat, I would just have the skeg itself repaired. Not sure you're area, but in our area, it's roughly only a $150-300 repair at most marinas or prop shops.
There is no one in my area that does repairs after I snapped the bottom off my skeg. So a guard it is. Have you physically seen any galvanic reaction when you have removed old guards?
@Jack @Jack I haven't. However, I can't remember the last time I removed a guard, or seen one for that matter. It seems over the last year or so, they aren't as prevalent. Usually when customers come in, it's to have the skeg repaired from damage. So there's either no skeg at all, or very little of it. Have you tried just a basic welding shop? Replacement blank skegs are something you can easily order online for your specific lower unit. I'm sure any welding shop would have no problem welding it on and finishing it. If a guard is your only option, it's your only option. I feel I've been pretty negative on the guards in this thread, but they'll do the job! There's just a much better way of doing it is all. Sometimes there's no choice and it will definitely suffice.
@@overthinker1506 I would prefer to weld. Especially for resale. I didn’t know you could order pre cut blank bits of aluminum, this would be ideal to rock up with the parts and the gearbox already off. Is a lot of work when I’m about to start a type rating for an E-190 haha. I’ll look into it, maybe ask a few more questions. The boating we do is very low risk of damage. All open water, sand banks at most. So I’m not too concerned about hitting it again 😅 thanks for the insight thought, it’s given me more food for thought
They look good on. Get yourself an oem prop for best performance. Those general purpose props have lots of silicone in the aluminium. More flex = poor performance.
Have you ever been concerned about damaging the transom after hitting or dragging the skeg? Do you think the hydraulics would give before damaging the transom?
I have hit alot of stuff with my motor and never had a transom issue but I did have to replace my tilt and trim twice. I'm sure it's from hitting so much stuff through the years
@@GunnFishTV I thought I scraped my skeg at the ramp yesterday on my 2020 tracker pro guide & my first thought was, oh no the transom. Looked at it when I got home and I don’t see any scrapes on my skeg. I may be overthinking it. Thanks for the info.
Bad idea. The skeg guard requires the holes drilled , which creates a perfect weak point for the entire skeg. Hit something and instead is a small fracture, you break the entire skeg off, which possibly leaves insufficient remaining material for repair. Then you get to buy an all new lower housing and have your gearing transferred.
I knocked the holy hell out of some stuff with this thing and it held strong. I sold that boat and motor a few years back and the guy still runs it now with the same skeg. The pins are supposed to shear off before the skeg breaks. Idk but its strong lol
Yeah it does! Was pushing it full speed up the slight incline to get into the shed. It caught on the raised shed slab while motor was 45dgrees. Oh well. Shit happens. Ordered a stainless sleeve. I am VERY curious how people go with dissimilar metals (and salt water) though. Theoretically the outboard anodes should protect it, after all, you have stainless bolts holding the aluminum engine together. Worth painting in duralac before install I wonder?
I know this video is older, but I own a propeller and skeg repair facility and was curiously looking around when I came upon this vid. Some great information for sure. One thing I wanted to mention. We've repaired more skegs than I can count. One thing I have my customers shy away from is the guards. With no guard, you hit something, a piece of the skeg breaks off. You can get it repaired for relatively cheap. However, the worst skeg repairs I see come from customers that use the guards. They bolt through the skeg and usually they're made of steel. So when you hit something, instead of the skeg breaking, it pulls that bolted steel guard along with the skeg and more often than not, much more of the lower unit comes with it. Skeg guards are responsible for 50% or more of our casing repairs. That being said, the guards will work great for brushing off things like small rocks, wood pieces floating in the water, etc.... With no guard, those small rocks and whatnot would cause damage to the skeg. I don't want to say don't use them, just know what will happen if you end up hitting bottom or something else pretty hard while having a guard on.
Any recommendation for using a skeg guard as a kind or replacement skeg if the majority of it has sheered off?
@@AJKammerer it would just be the same as using it if only a small chunk was missing from skeg. It will work, given there's enough skeg left to attach it to firmly. If it was my boat, I would just have the skeg itself repaired. Not sure you're area, but in our area, it's roughly only a $150-300 repair at most marinas or prop shops.
There is no one in my area that does repairs after I snapped the bottom off my skeg. So a guard it is. Have you physically seen any galvanic reaction when you have removed old guards?
@Jack @Jack I haven't. However, I can't remember the last time I removed a guard, or seen one for that matter. It seems over the last year or so, they aren't as prevalent. Usually when customers come in, it's to have the skeg repaired from damage. So there's either no skeg at all, or very little of it. Have you tried just a basic welding shop? Replacement blank skegs are something you can easily order online for your specific lower unit. I'm sure any welding shop would have no problem welding it on and finishing it. If a guard is your only option, it's your only option. I feel I've been pretty negative on the guards in this thread, but they'll do the job! There's just a much better way of doing it is all. Sometimes there's no choice and it will definitely suffice.
@@overthinker1506 I would prefer to weld. Especially for resale. I didn’t know you could order pre cut blank bits of aluminum, this would be ideal to rock up with the parts and the gearbox already off. Is a lot of work when I’m about to start a type rating for an E-190 haha. I’ll look into it, maybe ask a few more questions. The boating we do is very low risk of damage. All open water, sand banks at most. So I’m not too concerned about hitting it again 😅 thanks for the insight thought, it’s given me more food for thought
Can you drop a link on where you bought that
Cool product. That will come in handy in the back of Peahill Creek LOL
Lol, brother you have my kinda luck! Drill bit came out easy for you though!
Looks good!
Could you give me the link were you purchased your skeg
amzn.to/4dQjkJ0
Here is the link....Thanks!
They look good on. Get yourself an oem prop for best performance. Those general purpose props have lots of silicone in the aluminium. More flex = poor performance.
Nice vid👍
Kev
How did this work out as far as performance goes did it slow your speed down any at all
It didn't affect performance at all. No lose of speed either
By doing this, will it void the MFG warranty? Ive got a yamaha 150 SHO and im thinking of getting one of these.
I'm not sure about that because you do have to drill the skeg. I might would talk to your dealer to find out
I can’t find one for a mercury 25 for the life of me , hit a huge rock last weekend and took out a 2 inch chunk 🤦♂️
O no thats not good. You may need to get with a welder to fix yours
@@GunnFishTV I put the jb weld to it , sanded it and painted , seems solid shrug 🤷♂️ wel see how it holds up
Thanks Batista
Is it made of aluminum or stainless steel? You said it was made of both
The skeg protector is made of stainless steel
Where did you order the skeg from?
I think it was iboats.net
Have you ever been concerned about damaging the transom after hitting or dragging the skeg? Do you think the hydraulics would give before damaging the transom?
I have hit alot of stuff with my motor and never had a transom issue but I did have to replace my tilt and trim twice. I'm sure it's from hitting so much stuff through the years
@@GunnFishTV I thought I scraped my skeg at the ramp yesterday on my 2020 tracker pro guide & my first thought was, oh no the transom. Looked at it when I got home and I don’t see any scrapes on my skeg. I may be overthinking it. Thanks for the info.
@@tyrailr ur good man. The boats are built well
I'm sure u will still find a way to beat that skeg guard up 😂🤣
Haha
Bad idea. The skeg guard requires the holes drilled , which creates a perfect weak point for the entire skeg. Hit something and instead is a small fracture, you break the entire skeg off, which possibly leaves insufficient remaining material for repair. Then you get to buy an all new lower housing and have your gearing transferred.
I knocked the holy hell out of some stuff with this thing and it held strong. I sold that boat and motor a few years back and the guy still runs it now with the same skeg. The pins are supposed to shear off before the skeg breaks. Idk but its strong lol
A file would work better than a soft sanding block
Fuck. I just snapped mine off pushing boat up and into shed. Forgot we lowered it to let the kids get past.
O man that sucks!
Yeah it does! Was pushing it full speed up the slight incline to get into the shed. It caught on the raised shed slab while motor was 45dgrees. Oh well. Shit happens.
Ordered a stainless sleeve. I am VERY curious how people go with dissimilar metals (and salt water) though. Theoretically the outboard anodes should protect it, after all, you have stainless bolts holding the aluminum engine together. Worth painting in duralac before install I wonder?
@@ibsn87 probably wouldn't be a bad idea
@@GunnFishTV can’t hurt right
Been there...