Tech Talk: Amplifier Cooling
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- Heat is the number one killer of mobile audio equipment, so we should all take extra precaution when temperatures swell.
Thanks to the greenhouse effect, the interior of your vehicle can reach a temperature up to 25 degrees Fahrenheit hotter than the outside temperature. The same is true for enclosed amp racks on boats. This means your amp may be starting out at 125+ degrees, before you even turn it on. This is just a couple of rocking songs away from thermal protection, or worse, amp failure.
A simple and inexpensive way to provide some relief for your hard working equipment is to add a fan, or two, to your install. We recommend placing the fans as close as possible to the amplifier(s) allowing for maximum air movement down the rails of the heat sink. You can use a pair of small square computer style fans and set up a push/pull system, or you can use a high velocity cross flow fan. Both styles draw minimal amperage and can easily be ran off existing power sources already at the amp when used in conjunction with a simple relay turn on circuit.
Our tests averaged a 25 degree sustained temperature reduction at the heat sink, once we added a fan. This enabled our test amps to go from thermal protection after 15-20 minutes of play, to running under their thermal cutoff limits all day long. That made both us and our amps happy. So, have fun this Spring and Summer and stay cool! 
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I like the method of screwing them to the bottom plate. I'm going to do this with my Skv.2 3500 cause it gets hot
Thank Youuuu! I've been doing it wrong forever!😁👍
And for what its worth, the "pull effect" is not as efficient as the air is being pulled from all around the fan based on the pressure gradients it induces. Very little airflow will be induced beyond a few inches from the fan. The "push" is better as the air is more or less directed in a stream across the heatsink. Even better, if it can be arranged, is to mount the fans above the heatsink so they blow air directly across it. Edit: The fan on the inside to draw air into the enclosure is actually the best solution, since its cooling the transformers, output inductors, H-bridge drivers, etc. Parts that rely on just ambient air temperature inside the enclosure to stay cool.
Any tips on connecting to aftermarket infotainment android units for cars? The aftermarket android units overheat and usually slows the unit.
@@whatitisnt. You might be able to use a stick-on silpad and a low-profile heatsink on the rear of the enclosure. It depends on how much space there is behind the unit. Even just getting something on the case itself can help a lot.
I used a removable push pull fan setup on my dual M4a rack when playing for extended times at carshows, definitely helped a LOT especially given that the rack enclosed the amps, I also mounted non removable fans on the back of the rack to blow though the venting on the rear panel for every day use these were relayed to come on when the amps came on.
I have done this in the past, and it works well to cool the transistors. But, it wont cool the other hot part in the amp: its transformers. Those get real hot, too, due to how lossy they can be. In my old JBL amp, the whole PCB turned black and the transformers melted down despite the case being kept cool to the touch. Class AB amp so its the worst-case scenario, but its worth noting that the H-bridge and PSU transistors are not the only things getting hot, and the outside case temperature does not help the internal components as much. Something to keep in mind that hot weather is still hot weather.
Any tips on connecting to aftermarket infotainment android units for cars? The aftermarket android units overheat and usually slows the unit.
Thanks for the pro tips
Iv seen car audio enthusiasts even modifying their cars a.c air and ducting pipes to the amps( usually walled off in trunk or back boot area )
You are right I have the old m3 the gray one I bought it I think 2009 it still works fine but I have to up grade my alternator for it the one I have is only 140amp I need a 370 Mac man I'm going to get it some day.
Any tips on connecting to aftermarket infotainment android units for cars? The aftermarket android units overheat and usually slows the unit.
I have a problem with overheating with my car engine control unit. Should I install a pc fan? Or server fan? When ECU becomes too hot, the engine stops running. Most of overheating comes when I start to remove the car from one to another place, or in a trafic mess, when there is no wind to cool down ECU. What would you recommend me?
Never has a problem til now. 3 different cars all same system and now my amp is overheating 😒 idk what the problem is but imma just blame the LOC since thats the only thing new
How can I wire the fan so it only turns on when the remote signal is given to turn on the amp, anyway to wire a fan using the same remote wire?
relay
Need a way to monitor/display air temp at exhaust from Blower (pressurized finals)
They should make liquid cooled amps
Agreed, just like they do with Pc components
One more thing the pull method will not be as good as push 😉
He said to use push on one side and pull on the other side
How do I connect them so when I turn on my amp the fans turn on at the same time ?
Wire it too your remote or fuse tap it somewhere
Send me a link so I can get one
You not showing how tho, I need to kno how to go it up so it won't constantly run
Ground to ground
Hot to remote wire
@@SixEightPsycles it has 3 wires hot, remote, ground, do I need any relays cus it wouldn't come on without it hooked up to the power
@@PISTILGRIP mine only have 2 wires, since the remote lead is hot when the ignition is on, you could hook the 2 to remote and then ground the ground obviously. Since the power will be cut when the key is off, that should work...
It's called poor engineering by the amp manufacturer or poor selection on the part of the person specifying the amp. All electronics have a thermal limit and nothing properly designed for an application should require external cooling unless specified in it's manual. If specified up front, at least you know going in that it is required and the device is not designed to work in an environment that is over it's max temp range without external cooling.
True but Texas weather is crazy