you should have just built a rack with fans on it blowing across the fins in the heat sink. that big heavy metal cover is keeping the amp cool. blowing on the circuit board probably created cold spots in the board and hot spots on the heat sink. You blew the amp shortly after this, it's why you got a new one.
Yep that's what the heat sink is for. That's why the pro's make an enclosure with fans on either side so the air moves across the heat sink and out the other side of the box. I'm surprised they haven't come out with a liquid cooled amp yet.
Well I did my new hifonices zues amp I just got. That thing gets just way to hot, so I mounted a 140 mm and a 80 mm fan blowing out on the bottom. I hooked up like you said your going to with the blue rem wire, well I found that my stero (head unit) would go right in to protect twice. So i'm going to try 1 small relay, and power from the main power wire...
Great Idea especially for your cheaper amps to keep them cool and durable so they last longer. I think every amp should have at least one fan. Though 4 may be a little overkill. lol Good video. (Also, running either a Kicker or Recoil LOC (only 2 brands I know work without distorting your signal) will not only help your amp sound better, but also run cooler! Best $25 you can spend on your car stereo system!)
@amara ross u can stick a fuse any where... this amp does have some serious serious serious slammage until it over heats.. my rear view mirror tilted down every time the bass dropped... again with one nvc vcw 12" 4ohm. 12" all day 4ohm all day lol
If you're running at 2 ohms (or lower) for you rsub, your amp may not be rated "stable" at that resistance. Thus the excessive heat. Also if your amp is not sync'd with your head unit properly it will overheat. V=√P*R (IIRC) is the formula to measure at. You measure the voltage of that formula at the speaker terminals of the amp (VAC not VDC) and disconnect your speakers when measuring. Also have your HU volume at 80%-100%. This is prevent over driving your amp and also prevent clipping
I had the exact same problem with the exact same amp on a nvx vcw124 12" at 4ohm... i just figured it was a cheap amp nor do i have the patience to wire 4 fans wen amazon assures a refund... does it work good now? I finally gave up 2 weeks ago and got the power acoustic mono block bamf
Now I know what to do with my extra PC fans I've got from from taking apart power supplies and older towers. Running four component speaker now at 2 ohms and it tends to heat up, though my gains are sync'd correctly not to trigger the "off" safety switch. Though I know it's just a matter of time until the amp fails if it's running hot all the time.
I am not sure if I overlooked your response so if I have please forgive me, BUT does your amp stay cooler and operational after this Modification? Thx in advance 👍👀
I have a mini Lanzar Amp on my Harley and I've been having the same problem. Thanks to your video I now have a possible solution. I will add a post once I have completed the project. Thanks. Gil
I am not sure if I overlooked your response so if I have please forgive me, BUT does your amp stay cooler and operational after this Modification? Thx in advance!
It's funny you mentioned that, I just got ripped off by an ebay seller showing a 400 watt amp and it sounded like crap. Took it apart and found two amp chips with no buffer transistors to carry the current. Looked up the data sheet and found each chip was rated for 46 watts😢. So they sold me a 92 watt amp and nowhere near 400. It's a shame you have to take them apart nowadays.
I am not sure if I overlooked your response so if I have please forgive me, BUT does your amp stay cooler and operational after this Modification? Thx in advance.
This amp is great gets about 1500-2000w RMS on 2 ohms. Hooked up the ol 12 inch Earthquake Sub this pushed it very well on 4 ohms. Could probably run 2 12s' or 1 15 really well.
You should really always set up your fans so they draw air through your amp and out, and not blow into the amp. You may need to expand your cooling vents to better help airflow when adding fans.
At best I would think maybe 500w, which is probably peak. Although I do have an Alpine MRX-M50 mono that is rated 1000w peak and 500w RMS and it is smaller than that. Though his is a brand name I'm not familiar with so some companies throw peak numbers out and also rated at higher Hz or ohm levels which they don't advertise. You have to look at number around or lower than 80 Hz and at least 2 ohms stable with their advertised RMS levels.
like your setup man thats awsome!!! bad news for ya though... i see your amp has 1 40 amp fuse.rule of thumb is you take the total amount of fuses .yours would be 40 times that by 10 and you get 400. meaning your amp has a total output power of 400 watts.
well my man ... try this .. that 40 amp fuse would draw 25-30 amps max. lets say 30 .. and i think its class D Amp so its about 75% efficiency. 30 X 14.4 X 75% = 324 whats
ever heard of makeup ? what about all the poor sods who work on marketing ? there must be a reward for intellegence and knowledge in life. and now you have a little more of it. there are many ways of measuring amp power. RMS ... dynamic .. PMPO ... Max .... and the list goes on and on. and all of them are legit. Try to stick with CEA 2006 rating, its legit most of the times. But again i have 500W RMS Kenwood amp next to me with a 40 amp fuse ... CEA2006 approved. moral of the story : every now and then somebody fucks you either way !
forthereg: NO... every now and then you get fucked by someone who took advantage of your because you didn't know shit about something and they sniffed you out & knew you didn't know shit about the subject at hand.... Don't blame someone else for your mess up
Chris Krusey -I wouldnt think that running a few ampre fan would make much interference, as long as its bot down the same side as RCA plugs or other audio signal input or output.
Well, I got those from my local computer store (you can get em from any computer store) but, you can get those exact same fans at radio shack but they are a little more expensive. The littler 1s I got were about 8 bucks a piece & the bigger 1s were about 11 a piece. This really really helps tho. I hope this helps you!
If you want a beast of an Amp a new 3K Orion HCCA will actually put out almost 5K! Roll over to BigDWiz and check out his Korean Amp Competition, Orion came at the top between all the 3K and 3.5K amps he tested!
I used to have a sound storm labs monoblock amp that got so hot that I touched it once and it left my hand print on the amp perminantly.. still there when I sold it . thats real talk
I got same amp and just put 2 medium size fan on both sides and works perfect but my dude it's going to get super dirty but oh well it's just a $50 amplifier
Some car amplifiers will overheat and continue running until the car amplifier burns up because some car amplifiers don't have a thermal protection mode so if your car amplifier gets hot and doesn't shut off then your amplifier will be toast and not work again and if your car amplifier were to overheat and continue running then this could also become a fire hazard and cause a fire
u most likly dont have ur sub or subs wired to the correct ohm. fans are a great idea, ive had cheap ass amps like thos b4 untill u spend good money on a good amp its always gonna heat up. u climb in ur trunck with it wangin and tell me how long u can breath.
That's a very good idea however there is one drawback i see. Dust accumulation on the circuit board dust is conductive and if enough gets on the board it could cause it to short out and blow the amp I would recommend some sort of filter on the inlet fans...
Well, I see several issues here. No point in mounting the fans this way. You need to move air across the heat sink, not the internal components. Mount the fans outside the amp so they can cool the heat sinks as intended. Also, don't run fans off the remote line, most head units only have a max of maybe 300ma on the remote line. Run the remote line to a 30-40 amp relay and control the fans and amplifiers that way. Currently setting up my system this way as my Alpine Monoblock gets pretty toasty, never shuts off but I like my amps running cool.
What's causing he heat is the components inside (mainly the transformers and resistors) not the heat sink. The heat sink is a means for the internal airspace to become cooler, ultimately cooling the internal parts. That's why it's better to move air around the source of the heat (components inside) that it is to blow air on the heat sink.
EXACTLY! Air movement across the top is what is needed, that's why u use crossflow and a rack! Or you could set up an actual thermostat for it to turn on at certain temps and only when the amo has power.
Al Lewis no, the heatsink only gets so hot and then it stops keeping the heat away from the greenboard, that is the problem. Keeping the heatsink from getting to that point is what is needed!
@@thabopoo6285 yes sir thats right , only when set up wrong usually to high of a input level and the gain being set to high. most bass heads are allways clipping the signal this I s why amps over heat.
I recently replace my fusion amp with one of these and yes it does over heat but in my opinion that amp has made my 2 12's hit harder then ever! So the amp itself is amazing. lanzar does make good amps. It's just they over heat alot. So for $10 just get a couple of fans and you'll be set it's better then spending $150-$300 on a amp that doesn't over heat like that. So for around $100 you can have a amp like the $150-$300.
Lol lucky if that amp dose 300w rms. Hello 40 fuse. I wont recommend doing what this kid did. If you jave a cheap garbage amp sure but dont do this, so many better ways even back in 2012. Man gave me a great laugh so thank you for that.
Well, glad I could've gave you a good laugh from 8 years ago. Damn, if only you would've been around back then to teach me your great wisdom, I would've been so much better off. And also to loan me the money to buy me another amp instead of piddling and coming up with a solution with spare parts that I already had and actually work. But hey man. You gave me a good chuckle yourself. Kudos
sorry man, but your amp is overheating, because it's a piece of crap. and doesn't put out anywhere remotely close to the claimed 3000 watts. just an fyi, a typical 3000 watt amp would require approx. a 250 to 300amp fuse. your amp is packing a single 40amp fuse. that thing would light up like a light bulb and burst. long before you got anywhere close to hitting 3000 watts.
3k watt amp from a single 40 amp fuse... I DON'T THINK SO, maybe 500 watts if your LUCKY. anyways.. your setup is great BUT you need to mount the amp so that the fans can move air... do not mount the amp in its standard flat position with 1 inch in the air... Thats not going to be enough air flow. That amp needs to be mounted on its side or on its back so that the fans can move the air... remember, hot air rises so all that circuit board heat is going to rise to the top side panel (the one with the name brand stamped on it) and its just going to heat that side up... All that heat is going to destroy the circuit board over time... They did not design this amp to run efficiently... Its designed to provide power and it will but the heat over time will kill the amp.. if you push it hard most of the time. The best way is to get that entire circuit board OUT of that metal case and mount it like 2 inches off the ground.. Even this way will pro-long the life BUT the heat of the components will eventually melt the circuit board...
anyone thinking of doing this, make sure you put some space between your amp and wherever your mount it, also just solder the leads on the neg and remote on the inside either on the side or down on the board where ever its easiest.
Very smart set up bud. I wasn’t expecting much at the beginning of the video but I gotta say I’m impressed. Alright alright I’m joking 🤣🤣. This is poor theory and even worse execution.
Jesus christ man, get a little tripod or lay off the red bulls. You can't focus on half of what your showing your shaking so damn much. Good vocal explanation on all the steps you took to install the fans though.
I stopped as soon as I saw him flip it over! Don't do that unless you want to clean it out every couple weeks. Make a box and do it that way, the heat is on top and the bottom just collects dust! You don't need to have fans against the greenboard.
+Cody Spears (Spear3490) I agree that amp is a monster but hifonics is definitely not a name brand I've had 8 hifonics brx 2400.1d fry on me name brand is audio legion dd sundown crescendo Def not hifonics
are you stupid really ? I've seen people install fans on DC 5ks ! yes not name brand amps are shit but even name brand amps can heat up and use some fans
face.....palm..... why did you install the fans on the bottom? when you mount the amp the will be covered and thats a big waste of time, an inch is gona solve nothing unless you gain an inch where it counts, ive never heard hillbilly music on subs, theres an idea for another movie!!!! yeahaw!!!!!
I am not sure if I overlooked your response so if I have please forgive me, BUT does your amp stay cooler and operational after this Modification? Thx in advance.
he can smoke keep a camera and unscrew some screws at the same time
i call that real talent
Great video man, one of the better amp cooling mods, done at home ,that ive seen. Good work!
you should have just built a rack with fans on it blowing across the fins in the heat sink. that big heavy metal cover is keeping the amp cool. blowing on the circuit board probably created cold spots in the board and hot spots on the heat sink. You blew the amp shortly after this, it's why you got a new one.
I agreed
exactly
Yep that's what the heat sink is for. That's why the pro's make an enclosure with fans on either side so the air moves across the heat sink and out the other side of the box. I'm surprised they haven't come out with a liquid cooled amp yet.
Best amp cooling method I seen to this day great video bro.
Well I did my new hifonices zues amp I just got. That thing gets just way to hot, so I mounted a 140 mm and a 80 mm fan blowing out on the bottom. I hooked up like you said your going to with the blue rem wire, well I found that my stero (head unit) would go right in to protect twice. So i'm going to try 1 small relay, and power from the main power wire...
Great Idea especially for your cheaper amps to keep them cool and durable so they last longer. I think every amp should have at least one fan. Though 4 may be a little overkill. lol Good video. (Also, running either a Kicker or Recoil LOC (only 2 brands I know work without distorting your signal) will not only help your amp sound better, but also run cooler! Best $25 you can spend on your car stereo system!)
1500 rms 3000 watts and 1 40 amp fuse O_O would love to see how this amp performs
Exactly what I was thinking 🤔
@amara ross u can stick a fuse any where... this amp does have some serious serious serious slammage until it over heats.. my rear view mirror tilted down every time the bass dropped... again with one nvc vcw 12" 4ohm.
12" all day
4ohm all day lol
good video man, my kicker amp is toasted! im using the onboard amp atm ill try to install some fan in it so i can squeeze some mileage on it lol!
If you're running at 2 ohms (or lower) for you rsub, your amp may not be rated "stable" at that resistance. Thus the excessive heat. Also if your amp is not sync'd with your head unit properly it will overheat. V=√P*R (IIRC) is the formula to measure at. You measure the voltage of that formula at the speaker terminals of the amp (VAC not VDC) and disconnect your speakers when measuring. Also have your HU volume at 80%-100%. This is prevent over driving your amp and also prevent clipping
Nice! I'll do this too, thanks👍🏼
And when I saw the ciggarette, subscribed instantly
🤣😂 Glad you liked!
Hey how did you figure out what size fans to use when installing them into your amp?
I had the exact same problem with the exact same amp on a nvx vcw124 12" at 4ohm... i just figured it was a cheap amp nor do i have the patience to wire 4 fans wen amazon assures a refund... does it work good now? I finally gave up 2 weeks ago and got the power acoustic mono block bamf
would it work if i just take the bottom panel off and maybe just put a screen or even nothing at all
Now I know what to do with my extra PC fans I've got from from taking apart power supplies and older towers. Running four component speaker now at 2 ohms and it tends to heat up, though my gains are sync'd correctly not to trigger the "off" safety switch. Though I know it's just a matter of time until the amp fails if it's running hot all the time.
hey can you help me out i want to replace the transistors took out the old ones and forgot where to put them back
nice'' if i were you i'll put some feed on it so the air would blow better...good job on it. i'll be putting fans on mine too today...
I am not sure if I overlooked your response so if I have please forgive me, BUT does your amp stay cooler and operational after this Modification? Thx in advance 👍👀
I have a mini Lanzar Amp on my Harley and I've been having the same problem. Thanks to your video I now have a possible solution. I will add a post once I have completed the project.
Thanks. Gil
I am not sure if I overlooked your response so if I have please forgive me, BUT does your amp stay cooler and operational after this Modification? Thx in advance!
Awesome vid mane🙌🏽
Great job bro. Thank you!
That's one kick ass modification if I do say so myself.
Awesome idea there guy...
My question is did it work . 100% like you wanted .
All that and we dont get to see it in action?
There's no way that amp is 3000 Watts, it only has one fuse
Bruh he LITTERALLY said 1500 rms which is rated power,
@@justingrell2691 lmfao, not with a 40 amp fuse buddy, that thing is only getting 450 max
It's funny you mentioned that, I just got ripped off by an ebay seller showing a 400 watt amp and it sounded like crap. Took it apart and found two amp chips with no buffer transistors to carry the current. Looked up the data sheet and found each chip was rated for 46 watts😢. So they sold me a 92 watt amp and nowhere near 400. It's a shame you have to take them apart nowadays.
i have this amp does anyone know how many watts are we really getting becase its to small to be a 2000 watt?
very good. man all u need now is a temp sensor thia was it well turn on when the amp is getting hot then shuts off but either way is fine
You did it the best way
Thankz Cody !
I am not sure if I overlooked your response so if I have please forgive me, BUT does your amp stay cooler and operational after this Modification? Thx in advance.
Yes. Stays way cooler now....ice Cold infact
Neat job!
why didnt you solder them internely
Did it last a long time? Since u made this vid 8 years ago?
This amp is great gets about 1500-2000w RMS on 2 ohms. Hooked up the ol 12 inch Earthquake Sub this pushed it very well on 4 ohms. Could probably run 2 12s' or 1 15 really well.
bullshit
BULLSHIT
BULLSHIT.. OHMS LAW,,, look it up and learn something before you speak about that wich you know nothing.
You should really always set up your fans so they draw air through your amp and out, and not blow into the amp. You may need to expand your cooling vents to better help airflow when adding fans.
At best I would think maybe 500w, which is probably peak. Although I do have an Alpine MRX-M50 mono that is rated 1000w peak and 500w RMS and it is smaller than that. Though his is a brand name I'm not familiar with so some companies throw peak numbers out and also rated at higher Hz or ohm levels which they don't advertise. You have to look at number around or lower than 80 Hz and at least 2 ohms stable with their advertised RMS levels.
like your setup man thats awsome!!! bad news for ya though... i see your amp has 1 40 amp fuse.rule of thumb is you take the total amount of fuses .yours would be 40 times that by 10 and you get 400. meaning your amp has a total output power of 400 watts.
well my man ... try this .. that 40 amp fuse would draw 25-30 amps max.
lets say 30 .. and i think its class D Amp so its about 75% efficiency.
30 X 14.4 X 75% = 324 whats
Thanks! Yes, I am now aware of this. its very unfortunate. It should be against the law to advertise these things as something they aren't
ever heard of makeup ? what about all the poor sods who work on marketing ?
there must be a reward for intellegence and knowledge in life. and now you have a little more of it.
there are many ways of measuring amp power.
RMS ... dynamic .. PMPO ... Max .... and the list goes on and on. and all of them are legit.
Try to stick with CEA 2006 rating, its legit most of the times.
But again i have 500W RMS Kenwood amp next to me with a 40 amp fuse ... CEA2006 approved. moral of the story :
every now and then somebody fucks you either way !
forthereg:
NO... every now and then you get fucked by someone who took advantage of your because you didn't know shit about something and they sniffed you out & knew you didn't know shit about the subject at hand....
Don't blame someone else for your mess up
Nice made
Would mounting fans like this induce any noise to the system?
Chris Krusey -I wouldnt think that running a few ampre fan would make much interference, as long as its bot down the same side as RCA plugs or other audio signal input or output.
Someone correct me if i am wrong here pls
Not in my case, but I would recommend noiseless cooling fans for this project.
what did you use to cut on the amp to fit the fans in ?
a Dremel tool
Hows that amp working for you? I just purchased one and it's on its way...but i'm curious about the quality.
Cancel that order and get your money back I have one and regret buying it
You still need an amp, I have 2 for sale
Brilliant. Thank you thank you
1500 watt rms? I doubt it my hifonics BE 35th anniversary 1200.1D is pushing 1200 rms and it takes one huge 80 amp fuse also CEA compliantl
I have that same amp. It bangs, lies about wattage, & overheats. But it’s good bang for buck.
Cool bro
Haters ! Dude that was an awesome idea , do you have a follow up video on it working ?
JOGO that is going to brick it, rather than typing it out again just read the top one...
If mounted on inside I would have soldered to the leads on the inside on the amp
Well, I got those from my local computer store (you can get em from any computer store) but, you can get those exact same fans at radio shack but they are a little more expensive. The littler 1s I got were about 8 bucks a piece & the bigger 1s were about 11 a piece. This really really helps tho. I hope this helps you!
Did it work, cuz my 2000 watt is getting super hot in 2 muinets running a 400watt rms Kenwood sub
lower your input gain ,, big dummy
Im installing amp fans myself, i also shimmed my amp about an inch. My fans just .blow under into vents.
Not bad...should raise the amp off the floor or the fans wont get the air they need
Boy you gone blow sum shit up 😂😂😂🚫🧢
If you want a beast of an Amp a new 3K Orion HCCA will actually put out almost 5K! Roll over to BigDWiz and check out his Korean Amp Competition, Orion came at the top between all the 3K and 3.5K amps he tested!
Internals of that amp suggest it isn’t 3k 🤔 I’ll give you an A for effort tho 👍🏼
@Htownrider28 read my post that I made on the video comments. I didn't kno how to reply to your message directly ool
:o smh...How hot does that pos amp get?
I used to have a sound storm labs monoblock amp that got so hot that I touched it once and it left my hand print on the amp perminantly.. still there when I sold it . thats real talk
fuckin beautiful my guy
Damn that amp is almost empty inside
maybe he's mounting the amp on some wood with holes drilled where the fans are. that would be primo
I got same amp and just put 2 medium size fan on both sides and works perfect but my dude it's going to get super dirty but oh well it's just a $50 amplifier
Blowing on the heat sink is better then nothing but yours might be better, you might need to blow out the insides though or put filters
Yea even my 1100w 5 channel amp had two fuses.
I think one fan on the middle should be enough no need for any other fan for blow out
Nice.....
Fell free to leave a comment & let me know what you think!
Some car amplifiers will overheat and continue running until the car amplifier burns up because some car amplifiers don't have a thermal protection mode so if your car amplifier gets hot and doesn't shut off then your amplifier will be toast and not work again and if your car amplifier were to overheat and continue running then this could also become a fire hazard and cause a fire
um what amps ars you using most good amps Do have thermal overload protection... stop using shit amps ,upgrade your life.
what sub do you use with that amp? I wanna know if this amp would handle with 2 kicker 12 CVRs
Nice job.....simple and effective...
Based on the fuse you can tell that it's 3000 w RMS
you wired the ground and remote to to what?
u most likly dont have ur sub or subs wired to the correct ohm. fans are a great idea, ive had cheap ass amps like thos b4 untill u spend good money on a good amp its always gonna heat up. u climb in ur trunck with it wangin and tell me how long u can breath.
Good bandaid for the real issue. Lanzar is crap lol. You may get 600 watts 4 ohm maybe
All there shit is crappy unless you fucking with the optidrive amps and subs
That's a very good idea however there is one drawback i see. Dust accumulation on the circuit board dust is conductive and if enough gets on the board it could cause it to short out and blow the amp I would recommend some sort of filter on the inlet fans...
ThePhatGuy1776 or just put all the fans pulling out
Well, I see several issues here. No point in mounting the fans this way. You need to move air across the heat sink, not the internal components. Mount the fans outside the amp so they can cool the heat sinks as intended. Also, don't run fans off the remote line, most head units only have a max of maybe 300ma on the remote line. Run the remote line to a 30-40 amp relay and control the fans and amplifiers that way. Currently setting up my system this way as my Alpine Monoblock gets pretty toasty, never shuts off but I like my amps running cool.
What's causing he heat is the components inside (mainly the transformers and resistors) not the heat sink. The heat sink is a means for the internal airspace to become cooler, ultimately cooling the internal parts. That's why it's better to move air around the source of the heat (components inside) that it is to blow air on the heat sink.
EXACTLY! Air movement across the top is what is needed, that's why u use crossflow and a rack!
Or you could set up an actual thermostat for it to turn on at certain temps and only when the amo has power.
Al Lewis no, the heatsink only gets so hot and then it stops keeping the heat away from the greenboard, that is the problem.
Keeping the heatsink from getting to that point is what is needed!
A good monoblock should never heat up
@@thabopoo6285 yes sir thats right , only when set up wrong usually to high of a input level and the gain being set to high. most bass heads are allways clipping the signal this I s why amps over heat.
Great idea. Only I would of ran a new power wire with a 30amp fuse on a toggle switch.
I recently replace my fusion amp with one of these and yes it does over heat but in my opinion that amp has made my 2 12's hit harder then ever! So the amp itself is amazing. lanzar does make good amps. It's just they over heat alot. So for $10 just get a couple of fans and you'll be set it's better then spending $150-$300 on a amp that doesn't over heat like that. So for around $100 you can have a amp like the $150-$300.
got tha same amp but its popping fuses what could it be already sent it bak just for futrue rep
Did the same to mine HTG157 also ;)
it needed a bigger fuse instead of fan trust me I know 🤦🏽♂️
Lol lucky if that amp dose 300w rms. Hello 40 fuse. I wont recommend doing what this kid did. If you jave a cheap garbage amp sure but dont do this, so many better ways even back in 2012. Man gave me a great laugh so thank you for that.
Well, glad I could've gave you a good laugh from 8 years ago. Damn, if only you would've been around back then to teach me your great wisdom, I would've been so much better off. And also to loan me the money to buy me another amp instead of piddling and coming up with a solution with spare parts that I already had and actually work. But hey man. You gave me a good chuckle yourself. Kudos
Good idea raising your amp 1 inch with spacers.
1/4 of an inch is more than enough. Trust me.
sorry man, but your amp is overheating, because it's a piece of crap. and doesn't put out anywhere remotely close to the claimed 3000 watts. just an fyi, a typical 3000 watt amp would require approx. a 250 to 300amp fuse. your amp is packing a single 40amp fuse. that thing would light up like a light bulb and burst. long before you got anywhere close to hitting 3000 watts.
3k watt amp from a single 40 amp fuse... I DON'T THINK SO, maybe 500 watts if your LUCKY.
anyways.. your setup is great BUT you need to mount the amp so that the fans can move air... do not mount the amp in its standard flat position with 1 inch in the air... Thats not going to be enough air flow. That amp needs to be mounted on its side or on its back so that the fans can move the air... remember, hot air rises so all that circuit board heat is going to rise to the top side panel (the one with the name brand stamped on it) and its just going to heat that side up... All that heat is going to destroy the circuit board over time...
They did not design this amp to run efficiently... Its designed to provide power and it will but the heat over time will kill the amp.. if you push it hard most of the time.
The best way is to get that entire circuit board OUT of that metal case and mount it like 2 inches off the ground.. Even this way will pro-long the life BUT the heat of the components will eventually melt the circuit board...
your close ,ohms law says it can only do 480 watts at 12 volts. thats it not possible to do more .
Watch at 1.5x speed
lot of work for cheap ass amp
anyone thinking of doing this, make sure you put some space between your amp and wherever your mount it, also just solder the leads on the neg and remote on the inside either on the side or down on the board where ever its easiest.
Very smart set up bud. I wasn’t expecting much at the beginning of the video but I gotta say I’m impressed. Alright alright I’m joking 🤣🤣. This is poor theory and even worse execution.
Jesus christ man, get a little tripod or lay off the red bulls. You can't focus on half of what your showing your shaking so damn much. Good vocal explanation on all the steps you took to install the fans though.
The amp is crap but I like your thinking please get a new quality amp
This amp sucks so bad Walmart wouldn't sell it lol
I stopped as soon as I saw him flip it over!
Don't do that unless you want to clean it out every couple weeks. Make a box and do it that way, the heat is on top and the bottom just collects dust!
You don't need to have fans against the greenboard.
i have another solution to your problem......buy a name brand amplifier
my newest amp I just got is the hifonics Brutus 2400.1. it's a beast
+Cody Spears (Spear3490) I have an Alpine 600 pushing 2 12" Alpine Type S 500 RMS
+Cody Spears (Spear3490) I agree that amp is a monster but hifonics is definitely not a name brand I've had 8 hifonics brx 2400.1d fry on me name brand is audio legion dd sundown crescendo Def not hifonics
are you stupid really ? I've seen people install fans on DC 5ks ! yes not name brand amps are shit but even name brand amps can heat up and use some fans
i have an old-school ppi amp and it keeps overheating will this work for it to keep it cool
Why don't you just get to the point.....you talk way too much and frustrate us....
face.....palm..... why did you install the fans on the bottom? when you mount the amp the will be covered and thats a big waste of time, an inch is gona solve nothing unless you gain an inch where it counts, ive never heard hillbilly music on subs, theres an idea for another movie!!!! yeahaw!!!!!
stfu hater.
Way too much work put into an amplifier that would be best in the scrap pile of garbage
I am not sure if I overlooked your response so if I have please forgive me, BUT does your amp stay cooler and operational after this Modification? Thx in advance.
Crookedletta601 not once it gets full of dust and bricks. That's why they don't have them already!
@@RBRM3 you sir are a dipshit, good amps come with built in fans read a little google it .