Learning to SURF in 90 Days
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- I went on a journey with one goal and one goal only - learn how to surf. It was a tough one. I knew it won't be super easy from the beginning but even with all the struggles that came with learning a new skill, it took my heart and won't let it go.
While surfing in Puerto Escondido in Mexico was nice and warm, trying to surf in Peru was definitely more challenging with more winds, rocky beaches and cold ocean.
But the next destination will be the biggest challenge of them all, subscribe to see it!
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Website: www.petrherold...
Instagram: / petrherold_
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#surfing #mexico #peru
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You're awesome man. So happy to see this content 😂
Surf instructor here, with over 2 decades of surfing experience. You can learn to stand on your first day, but being able to rip (do airs, critical turns and ride barrels) takes many years of surfing multiple times a week.
My biggest tips for beginners to learn as fast as possible:
1.) Get the right board, the more beginner friendly your board the easy it’ll be to paddle and the more waves you’ll catch and the easier it’ll be too stand. The wrong board will make your surf incredibly frustrating.
2.) Keep your feet together and your weight centred over your board while paddling and paddle hard for waves. Cup your hand ms while paddling.
3.) Practice “pop ups” on dry land.
4.) Surf as often as possible and stick to spots within your level.
5.) Learn the rules of surfing (don’t drop in).
6.) Learn how to duckdive
7.) Paddle hard and wait till you feel that you’ve caught the wave before getting up.
8.) Get up smoothly and keep your weight centred. Don’t lean too far forward or back.
9.) When your on your feet, keep your knees bent and maintain a low center of gravity.
10.) Where you look is where you, wherever your head and shoulders and pointing is where you’ll go.
Very good
There is no age barrier to surfing. My dad started surfing at 52 ish.
My first surf at 63. Rossnowlagh, Donegal, Ireland.
Amazing! You should make a video learning at 60s 😄
Best beach in the world! I love it there. I was there last Sunday just surfing opposite the sandhouse hotel. Keep at it
This is great!! My father began surfing in his late 20s when he moved to Australia, he's in his late 50s now and is known by all the locals and has kids looking up to him. It's never too late to learn, no matter what anyone says.
I am starting to learn now at almost 29 here in Australia 🎉 hopefully it goes as well as your dad’s experience
Surfing is reward. The reward is never predictable. This is what creates the addiction.
This is fantastic, just started surfing at 46 in Australia, not very good but soooo much fun teaching myself.
Heading to Puerto Escondido in December to learn at age 38
Have fun! It’s the best place to learn!
Have you been practicing a lot since then?
Me? Anytime I get a chance! Unfortunately I can’t surf as often as I would like but I’m trying my best to surf as much as I can. Been to Morocco recently and now in Canary Islands, going to surf in Iceland now for the rest of the year. :)
🤘
Nice video! Why didn’t you start with a soft top though. Would’ve made it easier for you. Anyway, keep going 🤙🏽
I started surfing at the age of 43 at playa Carrizalillo. I personally believe Puerto Escondido is the best place to start surfing. I took some lessons time to time. But so many surfers truly though how to teach and the equipment. I just followed their advice. Now I am 3 time competitor at playa Zicatela in front of Cafe Cito. Real Mexican Pipe for more than 10 years. Good luck to your new fun life.
I still think of Puerto Escondido to this day and wishing to go back for how great it was 🏄♂️
I love what your surf instructor told you about just having fun. The days that I go out and want to perform well are often my worst. When I can let go and just enjoy myself then it makes the whole process easier and better. It’s a sport that thrives on letting go and I love it!
Started at 59. Rented a board in North Wildwood NJ while on vacation. I “surfed” for 2 hours,
During that time I caught one wave for like 4 seconds and was hooked for life! Surf primarily on Lake Ontario’s eastern shore. Wish I started in my teens!!
I loved the little comment about the wetsuit! It's a common misconception that they keep you dry (that's what a dry suit does and its meant for WAY colder temps), but they actually keep you dry by allowing in a layer of water. This water is then trapped and heated by your body to act as an insulator!
Hey! I'm in my late 30's and just came back from a trip to Portugal where I learned to surf (and do yoga) for the first time. And I totally relate to your learning journey. I discovered it, loved it, fell a lot, had huge cramps in my legs, and was mad at myself about my current physical condition... Surf is a way more complete sport than I thought - but love every bit of it !!! Now I'm hooked! I live in the north of Europe with no direct access to a nice shore but I continue practicing yoga, especially all the movements linked to surfing, bought a balance board which I stand on in my living room ("stand lower, look higher ! " 🙂), will resume roller skating that I enjoyed years ago to strengthen my legs, binge watch everything I can find about surf, and strategize about moving somewhere close to nice surf spots. Hooked !!!
Amazing how when you love something, you find a way. 🤞
Same here - just add 20 years ;)
I tried the first time 4 years ago in El Salvador and now we also just came back from Portugal. We had a great (and painful but successful) time in a surf camp - also with a first time yoga - in Figuera da Foz. Will sure do it again :)
So forget about these numbers or people telling you about “too old” or other bullsh*t.
Do what you love, enjoy the water, the waves .. your live 🤙🏼
The fact that this dude only has 3.3k subs is ridiculous. This dude is about it!
This video was so real. Thanks for giving the reality of giving into something so new. I have ADHD so I know how hard it is to focus on one exciting thing without bouncing from place to place with other hobbies that I never finish out. My goal this year is to focus on a couple things and create a serious schedule to perfect it. You earned yourself a solid subscriber. Good luck on your many endeavors!
this is such a good video, underrated.
I am literally the same, it's uncanny... what are the odds... the skating, the japanese... you are a truly unique person. keep it up.
SO accurate. My son started to surf at age 15. Me, an "in shape" 50 year old decided I wanted to try. Arms, ribs, overall very hard on the body like you said! I've stuck with it but have gravitated to stand up board as I was a) wanting to be on the water even with no waves (which is often here in NC in Summer) and paddling allows me to do that and b) I figured "I'm already standing, the board is huge with a lot of float, maybe I can catch more waves". The SUP has certainly allowed for me, a much more fun experience and I've been able to catch more waves and when I've gone back over to my longboard, I found my pop up and balance to be way way better. Still very challenging to catch them on long board vs. SUP but overall, it's been fun just being out there. The SUP is definitely more difficult to get out when waves get larger but at 55 now, I don't go out when it's bigger anyway. Too many wipeouts and dings and minor injuries already. Enjoy the ride! Loved the vid.
I surfed all through my 30's but haven't surfed for 20 years or so. Going to Costa Rica in January because I'll never get those years back. I can't live like that.
Never too late to live again brother
Just started surfing, video is so true. Good to know other people out there with same struggles, but triumphing
You need to develop a better sense of how the board glides on the water. I suggest that you try boogie boarding for one day. You will learn how to set up for the wave how to recognize when it is cresting and how to catch it at that moment. You will also feel and hear what the board sounds like when it is gliding across the wave. Then you can try standing on a regular surfboard. I also think you are inconsistent in your foot placement on the board. Sometimes you have a slightly open stance, and sometimes you have a slightly closed stance. Your feet really need to be dead on the centerline of the board as if you were standing on a skateboard. That way you have more control over the board, plus you can react to whatever the board does much more easily. If your feet are not on the centerline of the board, you will be having to counteract the balance between your 2 feet as well as to whatever the board is doing. And that’s too difficult for you to do. Especially on such small waves. So if you stand up and feel like your feet are not on the centerline, don’t just let it go and try to ride. Shift your feet so that you’re on the centerline. That should be the first thing you do. That will help you get your balance from the very beginning of the ride. After that just look where you want to go. The board will follow your eyes. If you are on the centerline.
Hi, I cannot find the time in my life to surf, but it remains a dream. I've tried surfing a little and never got very far, but did feel a lot of what you describe so well when I did. I just want to say that your video is very helpful because you identify right from the beginning of the video those projections we all make when we start to learn and how they affect us. The psychology behind it all- at least what you've shared rings very true and is really useful. I just might give it a try again. Good work, man! Thanks!
Go for it! It doesn’t have to be a full time hobby, just something you enjoy doing or trying at least. 🏄♂️
I am 30 and I am teaching myself to surf along with my cousin who is 21. Both never surfed before but both so excited.
Go for it. It ll change your life. Best feeling in the world when you get it right
Surfing has got to be THE hardest sport I’ve ever done.
You can’t even just practice every day. The swell needs to come in. The wind needs to be light and coming from the right direction. The tide has to be a certain height. And that’s just so you have surfable waves.
Nowwwww you need to compete with other people, read the waves, be in the right spot, and ride it well. And not one single wave is ever the same.
Skiing? The run is basically the same throughout the day. Dirt bike? The track doesn’t change much. Track? Just run. Football? Have at it. Soccer? Play anywhere. Tennis? Hit the court. Skating? Skate anywhere.
But surfing. You can’t just go any day. And some days are too small. Some days are too big. Conditions always change.
Props to you for your progress! It’s a lifelong sport you’ll never want to give up. Also, foiling, in my opinion, is by far the peak of surfing.
word
I'm 16 and decided to start surfing. I have friends who are almost pro surfers and are teaching me - worst thing in the world... They take me to the waves they surf, thought I was going to die😂 but it was just to show me what its all about. I'm learning on small waves now, enjoying every part of surfing even if I dont catch a wave! So lekker.
Omg im excited to watch the another part of this trip! I also surfed for first time in puerto Escondido so I think I have to follow those next destinations 😅 thank you for inspire us
I loved the honesty in this video, had me chuckling 😅 I had a few lessons back home in SA but then moved to the North oh Thailand that’s landlocked 😢
This is a classic ✨. The commentating, great storytelling, and slight yet successful humor. Makes this an awesome video. Loved the “a skinny weak dude” and the “I’ll never forget that… I forgot that” 😆💛😆
You win my subscription. 💯
Hope for you continued success man.
I've been obsessed with surfing since Point Break 1991!
Bruh, believe it or not, you have the talent to surf bruh, you managed to to stand up in 2 months. I could only stand up 1 and a half years after i started surfing
I'm thinking learning to surf in late 30s. And in my early 40s, surfing is one skill I want to learn this year.. 🎉
I am planning to start at 44 , So , my first step is moving closer to the coast, then learn swimming, and eventually surfing. Seems exciting hobby. Thanks for the video, I subscribed.
I have been surfing for 5 years now and i finally am starting to become better. I only took 3 lessons in my life. I hit a roof i couldnt turn couldnt paddle my avarage session with perfect waves was 3 waves in 3 hours. At the time i was 10 and i developed a fear from bigger and stronger waves. But finally one session i got a perfect wave went down the line and did a manouvre. I conquered my fear. That was the little push i needed. Now i call my self an intermediate. Am starting to learn some more advanced moves. And i know thats not alot of progress for 5 years but was to young to go surfing alone and i need to take the train for 2 hours so i can only surf maybe 5 to 8 sessions a year.
Great video. Thank you. I used to surf when I was young, I live 1 mile from the beach in Gower, so have started again at 44. It’s brutal but so nice being in the water.
I am 50 and have attempted surfing twice and bought a longboard today. I have learned so many tips from all of the veteran surfers in this comment section. Thanks all of you
The intro is like Rattatouille 😂 So sweet!
“ Yep, that’s me! You probably wondering why-“
Started at 50, after being an accomplished skier and motorcycle racer I thought surfing would be easy, way harder than I thought 💪😎👍🇺🇸💰🙏
I'm 41. Been surfing 3 times and although I'm still very much a noob, I LOVE it. I am pretty good at snowboarding, though. ;)
Great story mate - I really hope you realise your love 😀
(I've ben surfing around 47 years and still loving it)
I love it! i am feeling frustrated like half of the times when i surf ...hahaha.. But it is so worth it
was in your spot until my late 30s. now i've moved to a place close to the ocean and surfing every week :)
Surfing is a lifetime of knowledge and is a lifestyle don’t think you know it all after a few years
The single best thing you can do to prepare for a surf school trip is to swim everyday "Australian Crawl" aka the lifeguard stroke: Head up with your back arched so you train your arm strokes with the body posture you'll have on a surfboard. Regular freestyle stroke is not the same as heads up swimming.
The majority of people who go to a surf school for a week do it with no training, and after the first day they're all knots - arms, shoulders and neck are knotted up which basically ruins the vacation and their plan to become surfers.
Learning to surf requires 50+ minutes of paddling per hour. If you really want to learn spend at least 6 weeks in advance getting the strength, endurance and flexibility required to paddle every day with good speed and balancing the board beneath you.
The average beginner has enough strength to paddle out through the waves and try to paddle for about 10 waves, then they are tired and not fast enough to catch waves... and spend the rest of the lesson getting frustrated.
Very interesting. Thank you for sharing experience, it’s was so helpful for me as a beginner 🏄♀️
Greetings from Perú. I learn surfing in Makaha beach, Miraflores
Goals. I hope to fit a section of my 30s to intensely learn how to surf. Never done it, often dreamed of it.
Go for it!
I just took up surfing at the start of the summer this year. I am 49. I have balance tho, bc i skated for 10yrs.
As you were telling me about your past attempts at a hobby i was thinking how in your case all you need
is commitment and learning to take joy in the learning process.
The learning process is not some obstacle in your way... it's where you build a lot of qualities within yourself which will keep you committed, make progress and find that joy.
Next to skateboarding and surfing i've been a hobby musician my whole life. I've had many hobbies which i had quit just like you did, until i started to realize the value of total commitment and learning to bite through the hard moments to reach your goal. Quick fixes are for the weak !! You have yourself a new subcriber !
My biggest tip after watching this is to stop grabbing the rails!!! (the outside of the board) Every time I saw you try to stand up you were grabbing the rails! This will unbalance you so much as you will never push with both hands at the exact same time with the exact same amount of power! So pushing while holding the rails will rock and tip your board! That's why you rock pretty bad when you're trying to stand up! An ultimately why you keep falling. You're suppose to put your hands flat on the board, next to your chest as you push up. That way the movement is more balanced and you're pushing the board down and yourself up! Not rocking the board. It seems like you would have less control, hence why almost all beginners grab the rails when the wave hits them but actually it's the complete opposite! Get into a habit of consciously doing this and it will make a HUGE difference to your consistency.
63 here. I am getting a board tomorrow to surf Long Island, NY.
Well worth watching. Thanks for sharing! Yeewww!!!
Excellent video, as a person who recently tried surfing just for fun on vacation in Portugal, it caught me alot! Can't wait to get more waves in the future haha, surfing is so nice.
I believe u were grabbing the rails at the take off. Try to get them on the board so u don't slip and hurt urself
that’s crazy i just surfed in makaha 2 days ago..so fun but the paddle is always so long 😂
If you watched until the end you know what’s the next stop.
This will be a multicountry series over the course of years probably, but tell me - what country should I go surf next? 🤔
Nice try! Come back to Japan & surf together. We have some good spots to practice 👍
I will definitely go to Japan either this year or beginning of next year!
Definitely try Bali, so many surf spots you will progress fast 🤙
Australia 🤙
Indonesia, Vietnam, India and Sri Lanka.
Love your bro, keep up the great work!! I have to tell you you've inspired me to get outside my comfort zone!
Chiccama! I was lucky enough to get it in full wave action!
Just started at 40 😅 Thanks for the video... And the muscle aches the first 3 days 🙄😵 And that day, so much wind and violent waves that would knock you down 😅
This year is my 40...and I'm gonna learn in October.. Hopefully all goes well!
I am planning to start at 44 , So , my first step is moving closer to the coast, then learn swimming, and eventually surfing. Seems exciting hobby.
I think the main reason you weren’t catching as many waves was because of your pedaling technique. It’s important to keep your chest up high which you did well, but then you have to dig your arms as deep as possible into the water. If you just pet the water like that you’ll never gain enough speed for most waves. You don’t pedal with just your hands but with your entire arms
Hi! I am not the greatest surfing but i wanted to tell you that the pictures you took on 3:19 were absolutely cool! When you said "Waves to learn" i thought of smaller waves! And now that i see that i just wanted to tell you its very cool and even tho ive been surfing for 1 year almost i just learned to ride that wave!
Haha yeah Puerto Escondido has bigger waves to learn on but since I had a coach there it was manageable and probably best waves I surfed ever since 😄
I feel you brother! It was like listening my own story! South America, Japan, Morocco, Canary Islands, Iceland...me too! Somehow your video made me feel more comfortable with myself, so thanks for that! 😉...I just found out we're both from the same country 😂. I live in Taiwan now, so if you ever come over here, we can get wiped out together 😂
Love your attitude towards trying new things!
Great journey! Chicama is a great wave but by any means is a beginner wave. If you’re lucky you’ll have the best day ever. Unfortunately it’s being overrun by jet ski and small boats chartered by tourists.
Ah mate, such a good video. Thank you for sharing your journey with us, and dude the editing and everything was great as well. Me and my girlfriend are 33 right now, and yeah she's always wanted to learn how to surf. I promised her we'd take a lesson sometime and yeah I'm lucky enough to live within thirty minutes of The Wave in Bristol. Videos like this help to give me the confidence to give it a try.
Do it first time I rode a wave was at 33. Go for it!!!
@@StashMc Thanks for the encouragement, bro! Appreciate you!
I love that you started at a more advanced surf destination hahaha, I'm the same way - diving head first into things
Can’t help it, it’s either 110% or nothing 😅
Puerto escondido has beginners spot: la punta and carrizazillo or something
I think lima's wave are bigger... I go there tomorrow, we will see
Not quitting is everything. Way to be. I may have been fired from every job I've had but no one can call me a quitter.
I have 52, i begin now. Ur video inspire me
Were you able to catch a green wave? Because all the waves you catched at the end were white waves
I did during my lessons in Puerto Escondido but I don’t have that on video. The chase for green waves continues in my second surfing video from Iceland - ruclips.net/video/b_6kWFzWZ70/видео.html
Keep at it
I live on Oahu Hawaii, as long as you’re respectful and don’t get in anyone’s way (stay at small tourist beaches if u a tourist) u don’t get chirped
Dayum. This video is greatly made👍🏻
🔥🔥
Keep going with the learning new stuff as a channel idea you will pop off bro.
I was so happy for you the moment you overcame the slump. It seems like your experience is a copy of mine. everything you said happened to me the exact same way. I even started in Puerto and my instructor told me the same things your instructor told you.
This is funny as heck hahaha so relatable
Love this!
Cool video!!! An awesome story bro😎
Im taking lessons this summer but the whipeout is really scary !!!
awesome job! Greetings from Perú.
Thanx for sharing🤙 i feel this too😂
This was a great video and your editing is awesome
Thank you!
Keep going and have fun, places look very cool 🤙🏼🤙🏼
looking good ya kook! I'm only kidding... keep it up and you'll be fine... it's not an easy dance;)
Underrated channel! I just subscribed!
The struggle feels so close to home
so encouraging! you're amazing!
yessss love the thumbnail change!!!! It's awesome!!
Haha, thanks for the help!
Really nice video! Hopes to meet you one day bro!
Young dumb hit so hard
seems like you started your surf journey with a hardboard which seems pretty challenging. Haven’t you thought of starting with a foamie and then switching to a hardboard? Choosing a board appropriate for your level is a vital point in learning how to surf.
I switched to a foamie when I started surfing in Iceland and it’s definitely fun but I feel like it’s holding me back. I’m glad I started on a hardboard, even though it might have been harder.
I think Zicatela is not the place for a beginner because its a shallow beach break closes up very steeply. A beginner will only get smashed there
So sick
You should try Croyde in the uk England.
tbh the board you are using in Lima looks to small for a begginner but good job standing on the waves that beach in lima is called makaha and it soo good for begginer - intermediate and advanced surfers depending on the day ofc
That was a 7’6 and was actually my favourite board to use from that trip 😄 I just didn’t have much time to get used to it properly. Lima was great!
@@PetrHerold mb it looked like a shortboard xd
Try to visit philippines we have lots of surfing capital city here
so cool, I wanna learn surfing as well, 34 years old and never did, thou Im from Brazil ahah :)
Can't tell you how much I relate Petr. Coming from Greece now living in Netherlands I started surfing a week ago. Still trying to find my pop up as I keep falling. Frustration is over the roof. I am motivated to continue and won't stop regardless the falls or how much time it takes. But I gotta ask, how much time did it take you to master your pop up? Also the same for learning to turn when seeing the wave you wanted, how much time did it take you ???
I think I got the idea pretty fast because I had a good teacher in the beginning but it was much harder to get it right on my own. Popup definitely took me less time then turning (which I still can't do properly). If you want some advice:
The popup can be dependent on many factors. Two main ones I would say are: the wave - if it's too steep for example and you don't know how to deal with that yet, and your board - if it's too short or narrow and doesn't help you with stability in the beginning. If you get a bigger board and practice on smaller waves, you will get there soon enough. Just keep at it, look up some pop up techniques and practice them on land - there is a lot of educational content I was watching on RUclips too.
Turning is the next step, first you will learn how to turn into a wave but don't expect to be turning back and forth super fast. Your eyes are your best ally though, usually they say that you have to look where you want to go. Don't look at the board or some random spot, focus with your eyes where you want to go and your body will help you get there.
Great story and motivating
still the most og intro type
Hahaha 🤣
l started surfing at 56 after 4 times surfing on my own there is progression
when l can surf l will get some lessons
it's good to feel the balance of the boad the power of the waves
lv been watching other surfers and just take it in
It's just another form of natural therapy
Surf or die 🤙
lol....i think most of us can relate if we get intto, or back into surfing after a long time off.
how do you overcome being shy around other surfers and also the whole shark thing