Painting Oak kitchen cabinets How we do it
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- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2024
- Painting Oak kitchen cabinets can be a cost-effective alternative to replacing them and this is how we do it at 518 Painters.
Free Kitchen Cabinet Painting Guide 👉www.518painters.com/download/...
This video is just a demonstration of a process we use at 518 Painters to paint kitchen cabinets. We have great success using this method and are sharing it to maybe help someone out that is unsure of where and how to start.
NY is very strict about pretty much everything, therefore we do not spray solvent-based paints in customers' homes. We found products that are less aggressive and have a lower VOC so that we can spray them in customers' homes worry-free.
If you have any product or technique suggestions feel free to leave them in the comment section. We are always open to educating ourselves more.
Prep is the most important aspect of painting oak kitchen cabinets.
Cleaning, degreasing, and priming them with an oil-based primer is crucial!
For more on this checkout www.518painters/blog - Хобби
I posted a free guide you can download on my website. It'll walk you through the process and products. www.518painters.com/how-to-paint-kitchen-cabinets/
Have they been painted white or did they come come from the factory like that? @volkanyesilyurt
Can you email or text me some pictures of the cabinets? I'll be able to tell you exactly what you'll need if I can check them out. @volkanyesilyurt
A solid dude here. Developing his craft. Doing right for his customers. Charging his value and forth.
*Thank you* ! 🙏
Thanks for sharing your method. Seems great, like that you mentioned your past mistakes and learned.
Your willingness to share your mistakes will help others not go through the headache too. 👍🏼
Thanks! I'm not afraid to share my mistakes 😅 As long as it helps.
Thank you for sharing your hard-earned knowledge with us
Thank you for watching!
Thanx for all those great tips!! I have those same kitchen/baths and other built in cabs.
Been toying with the thought of painting but was unsure of the types of paint and pre-paint and final top coat stages. Other vids don't give all of that type of info from the perspective of a professional.
Thanks again, now I feel I can go ahead with my project with confidence.👍😊
Always glad to help! Please share this video with your friends, it would mean a lot to me, Thanks!
Very helpful man! Answered a lot of questions I had, as I prepare to do my kitchen. Thanks for the honest input!
Thanks for watching!
You are The MAN Bro 💪🏿🤙😎
Thank For sharing your experience ❤
THIS IS THE VIDEO I WAS LOOKING FOR!! THANK YOU
I didn't know you were on RUclips for a minute already. So much more content👏🤘👌
I just started back up after a long break
lol
Expert tips and straight to the point. Came looking for opinions on BM Advance. Got that and way more. Now subscribed. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for your advice I appreciate it.
Thanks for all the insight and for keeping it real..
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for all you advice. I haven't watched a lot of videos of people spraying cabinets, but I am going to use your trick of putting hooks in the doors and hanging them on clothes racks.
It makes it very easy to paint both sides at the same time 👍🏼
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy I second this. Started with clothes racks and upgraded to the Paintline dry rack system for more versatility, especially when space is an issue. I think its work the investment but whatever gets you a quality product and a satisfied customer is really all you need.
Only downside I've seen from hanging is that the paint doesn't sink into pores of porous woods like oak as easily as if it was sprayed and laid to dry horizontally. I just use a grain filler called aqua coat when I run into that issue and the cabinets turn out great. Anyone else have any better tips for filling grain quickly and easily?
Fantastic information. I’m just nosy about the process since I’m planning to refinish by kitchen cabinets. I see it’s very labor intensive and will leave it to the professionals. Thank you. Best wishes for continued success.
Thank you, and yes, it is very labor intensive!
A lot of great tips. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
I'd love to see a video showing how to paint over wallpaper!! Thanks for this video! It truly helped A TON!
I'm glad you liked it, thank you!
I wouldn't suggest painting over wallpaper personally but you'd have to prime it first. Check out this post I wrote about it, it might help!
Very informative, great video. Thank you
Thank you for watching!
I appreciate your humble, proffesional opinions. Ive been painting for 8 years, but the last year i have been a student of Cabinet refinishing In Oklahoma. Been using the Evo for a couple of months now and its an amazing water based with laquer resins product!
Thanks for watching!
I agree, Evo is amazing!
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy Got recently introduced to Breakthrough a week ago, how do you think it compares to evo? Do you still go with stix as a primer with breakthrough?
@@oscarsingh4662 Breakthrough is solid but the finish is not as nice a the EVO.
I got with Stix or Zinsser Coverstain@@oscarsingh4662
Keep up the good work man!
Thank you!
Awesome video! And Those EYES!! Thanks for sharing this!
Awesome, this is a clinic! So a couple of things. You definitely have to push that primer into the grain but there will always be some showing, even the texture will cast shadows on light paint. Also, I clear coat all my cabinets which leaves a super hard and slick finish that resists getting gummy. Keep in mind, you must clean your cabinets with mild detergent or hand oils and grease will break down any finish over time.
That makes sense! thats why my cabinets are scraping off around where my wife grabs them with oily hands!! God darn it wife lol i bet it was that oils braking down and making the paint so soft! just 2 inches away paint is hard and good !
Great video, I'm in Ireland so non of the product brands you use are available, but we obviously have same type of products just different brands, I've opted for a water based advanced stain block primer, as it's quick drying and an oil based Eggshell paint. I'm quite looking forward to giving it a go. Thanks for all the tips.
Thanks for watching, please let me know how it turns out!
Thanks! Great info! 🔵👍🔵
Thanks for watching! Big fan of your mud mixer!🔥👌🏼
Well done!
Thank you!
Awesome, working on my kitchen cabinets this weekend! wish me luck.
You got it🤞🏼
Let me know how it turns out!
518 Painters thanks buddy. Do you think a brush over a sprayer would provide better results?
@@jorgeguerrero2663 brush and roll primer and spray top coat. Or roll top with ba mohair 👍🏼
Great video. Thanks for all the helpful info you've been giving us.
I have 80s oak cabinets and want to paint them with a brush & roller.
After watching your videos I decided on BM Advance. The idea was, Coverstain oil bonding primer, then BM Fresh Start water based primer, then 2 coats of Advance.
Went to BM store and they said that since I'm using the coverstain primer, I won't need the water based Fresh Start on top of that.
What's your opinion on skipping Fresh Start?
I don't want unnecessary work but at the same time I don't want to screw it up.
Thanks
Tom
Sorry I wasn’t listening I was admiring you. What a beautiful man 😉
Thank you!🙏🏽
Yes for real
Thanks for the compliment!@@_J_M
Yeah, he’s fine 😍 does he need an assistant? 🙋♀️😏🤣
Yes he could be a very successful male model
Great vid😊
Thank you!
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy I am trying to hide the grain on my cabinets but to be honest with you it looks justvas good with the grain as I am painting white using an enamel.
I've been watching this video for a year. I think I'm ready...mentally to get it done! I'm scared of getting in over my head. My 3rd home. I'm a renos addict. I'm a women and do alot of my own work. Ridiculous I'm afraid of painting cabinets ♥️🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦
You can do it! Download the free guide I have on my website. You can send me a message there too if you have any questions and I'll walk you through it👍🏼 www.518painters.com/how-to-paint-kitchen-cabinets/
Thank you, I feel like I'd still mess it up somehow but you were super informative. I may just hire someone to do this , I'm sure LA has someone
Thank you!
You can use this information to question the process of whoever you call for an estimate to see if they know what they're doing.
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy thank you that's very helpful
Awesome videos. Very detailed.
My cabinets are mixture of wood and some parts are laminate.
What primer do you use for both surfaces?
Let’s gooo 🔥🔥🔥
I had the same experience with low voc breakthrough. The 250 satin was a bit duller and a certain speckled look with the sheen you could only see in certain lighting but it was there and I couldn't accept it. I moved on to conversion varnish.
Thanks for all your videos, they are great. I'm sanding my cabinets by hand with a 220 grit block. They are still pretty smooth, how much sanding do they need to be ready to prime? I cleaned them with Krud Kutter, the non-deglossing kind, and I have Zissner oil based primer. The cabinets are older Kraftmaid, they are wood but with a nice smooth finish.
I did a kitchen in my previous house but the cabinets had no finish on them and I used an orbital sander, they were fairly roughed up after sanding.
Thanks. :)
They don't need much sanding. Just enough to create a small tooth. The molecules of the oil based primer are very small and don't need a deep ridge. You can text or email me pictures of the cabinets and I can take a look if you'd like 👍
also when painting with the Graco gun, can you show us how you select your air settings and the paint volume settings. I would love to learn this so I can be a better painter! and the tip size! Thanks
Thanks for sharing..
Thanks for the appreciation!
I LOVE your video!!! Can you show us how you hang the cabinet on the hanger?
I see your using a Graco series gun. What size tip are you using and do you thin your paint? Would love to see a video on this.
Thanks, Great video!!
The kind of detail we wish everyone in the trade would do.
Thank you!
Thank you for your tips! Can I use sherwin William's problock as the 1st primer then followed by benjamin moore fresh start high hiding all purpose primer? I don't have a spray, what kind of paint do you recommend if I paint with a roller?
Absolutely! Pro block works great too. Ppg breakthrough 250 VOC rolls nice on oak with a mohair or 3/8 inch microfiber 👍🏼
perfect job explaining where do you by those plugs for the hinge holes
Thanks!
Email me at 518paintersny@gmail.com I'll send you the link
Is it a secret?
Thanks a lot for this video..I have the same color and would like to hide the grain..I'm thinking to use "white Benjamin Moore Advance interior Satin Paint" with 2 coat of water based primer (sanding between)
Would it be ok to use roller and brush for the 2 primer coats and then the final 1 coat of the paint to use wagner paint sprayer to get professional finishing with no brush marks?
And what's the difference between liquid papersand and regular sanding one..please I would appreciate your reply and advise..thanks again for your help.
He didn't comment because you didn't listen haha! Use oil primer on oak or it will bleed. Liquid sander de glosses and creates a chemical bond. Always sand though with at least 220.
Thank You! Please share this video with your friends, it would really help!
This was such an awesome video! Thank you! Learned a lot! We are going to get our oak cabinets painted. What is a good oil based primer? Does the oil primer work just as good as the grain filler? We don’t want to see the grain after it’s all painted.
Thank you for watching! You'll still need to fill the grain after the primer if you want super smooth doors. Sometimes it's less expensive just buying new doors at $100 a piece. Really depends on how grainy the oak is.
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy Thank you for the quick response and advice! I’ve been watching more of your videos and they have provided a lot of insight! Happy Holidays! ❤️
Glad it helped! Merry Christmas and happy holidays to you and your family! @@aleciaf8192
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy Where do you get just new doors? Never knew you can do that!
Oh yeah, you can buy them online at best cabinetdoors.com@@loribecchi8819
May I ask what spray gun that you used and tip size? I used Graco Truecoat Plus with 311 tip (smallest one), sprayed vertically like you and got a lot of drips even my tip was 10" away from the doors. It got better when I sprayed it horizontally. Thanks
I use the graco edge 2 plus hvlp gun. Remember that with water based lacquer you want to spray light coats. Try the graco fflp 210 tip next time.
Great videos, you’ve taught me alot already so thanks in advance. Couple of questions...I have done alot of research and would like to run a few ideas by you. I am in the process of painting (30 panels/drawers) raised panel oak cabinets SW Dove White. I cleaned and sanded very well w/120 (probably overkill but I have the time right now). The panels are almost all the way sanded down to bare wood in some areas. I am going to apply 3 coats of aqua coat tomorrow followed by 220 sanding and a thorough vacuum/air compressor cleaning. Then my thought is SW problock oil primer followed by BM Advance. I will be using a Graco Magnum airless sprayer with probably a 310-311 tip. I haven’t purchased any of the paint/primer yet. Any suggestions? I was thinking of using stix and fresh start instead at first but looking for guidance from an expert with experience with different combos especially using the products with an airless sprayer.
Thanks for watching! You have it spot on with the pro
block since you're priming bare wood almost. For Bare wood always use oil based. Everything you're doing sounds like you're a pro and know what you're doing👌🏼👍🏽Send me some pics on Instagram @518painters when you're done please!
518 Painters I’m still at it..is there a difference in fumes between cover stain and problock? Im concerned w spraying them as my spray room is on the same level as the master. Might have to sleep on the couch a night or 2 eitherway. Have a good assortment of fans that should help also.
I personally feel that problock has an odor that leaves a bit faster than coverstain. If you can run some fans that helps. Also a makeshift tent with a 3 mil plastic draping from ceiling to floor will contain the odor mostly. @@Cisco93lude
518 Painters thanks again. Glad your not shying me away from either. I planed on making a plastic sheeting tent including one side window w a high velocity fan to help.
@@Cisco93lude that makes a huge difference. I've had customers that said they never smelled anything while I was on site in a tent
Thanks for the informative video. When you used the Benjamin More Advance, did you have to thin the paint and what size needle did you use. I am using it to paint my cabinets with a 3 stage HVLP and I am having trouble with orange peel. Any tips would be helpful. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
I use a #3 needle and usually thin down with ca. 8 or 10% water. However, if you're getting orange peel you might be going a little heavy on the material. But if you can say that you're not spraying it too heavy then try thinning it with warm water. Also, heating up the paint a bit helps too. I use a space heater or heat gun for that.
Thanks
Hey Juan. Great video thank you!
I’m getting ready to work on my own kitchen cabinets... smooth finished maple kraftmaid going to paint white. I’m planing on using your method/procedures and planing on getting BM Advance. Is the paint good for spraying? Is there any VOS consideration that you have mention for the other paints. Thanks!
Thanks for watching! Bm advance sprays real nice. Don't spray it on to heavy because it will run.
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy Thanks!
Do I need to thin down BM Advance in order to spray on? or I can just go without thining and spray straight from the can?
In most cases, you don't need to thin down the Advance but you can thin it with water up to 10%@@pawelbronski9102
Thanks for the instructive video. Question: Is it possible to use a product that is stain-like to give a re-stained finish, maybe in a different color, that takes advantage of the natural grain rather than trying to hide it ? Is there a way to do that maybe without sanding down to wood, possibly priming and staining ? A tall order, I know. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching!
Have you looked into gel stains yet?
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy Not so much. I'm guessing to gel stain, let's say gray or some other trendy shade, I would have to sand down to wood? The cabinets are now the 'standard' oak cabinet color, sort of medium brown.
Usually you don't have to sand with gel stain but always test it first@@alfabrizio6005
Great video. What do you do about the holes made to hang them?
You really won't see them but you can just fill them with the red 3M spot and glazing putty.
I found Zinsser primer but it comes in two varieties: oil base and alkyd. Which one should I get? Awesome tutorial, very helpful, thank you! I am about to start painting our oak cabinets white, wish me luck :-))
Oil based will be your safer choice for Oak cabinets 👍🏼
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy Awesome, thank you very much Juan.
Is the Benjamin Moore high hiding fresh start primer going to be as good as something like Zinsser BIN stain cover oil primer? I have very dark oak cabinets almost black and going to white.
Yes and no. It hides as good as coverstain but it does not block tannins. Are they painted oak cabinets orb stained?
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy They're stained. Trying to find the best primer and laquer combo that doesn't yellow (has yours ever?). I think the laquer (pre-cat) would be a step up from BM advanced or SW Emerald Eurathane many seem to use, no?
Juan, for the second primer coat, should I brush and roll or can I spray it on? I brushed and rolled first coat on my grainy oak cabinets using oil based Zinsser cover stain. Also, for 2nd coat, do I do Zinsser cover stain or BM Fresh Start Primer (or both, 2nd coat of Zinsser and then 3rd of Fresh Start)? Thank you for your help!!
You can spray it as long as you don't see any black crevices from the grain still. Otherwise you'll have to brush and roll to seal those.
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy Thank you!
Any time!@@Angel-bf5oy
Can I use a foam roller instead of spraying if I use the PPG Breakthrough 250? And what oil primer would you recommend before using the Benjamin Moore primer you suggested? Thanks from Brooklyn NY😉
I would use a mohair instead of a foam roller. But if you are not spraying that then I would use "Benjamin Moore Advance" instead. It has a 14 hour dry time between coats but lays down nicer when you are brushing and rolling. As far as primer, I would suggest Zinsser Coverstain or Sherwin William's ProBlock oil-based.
Bk all day baby !🙌🏼💪🏼
518 Painters Thanks!👍
518 Painters would you suggest to use any type of sealer or poly after two coats of Benjamin Moore advance?
Great tips! Thx! No problems with Bondo? I never thought of that, but I am willing to spend the time filling the grain on my oak kitchen cabinets. Just sand after it dries, then primer? My plan is to use Zinsser BIN, then Benjamin Moore Advance semi-gloss white.
Thanks for watching!
Never had a problem with bondo.
They have bondo wood filler too.
Sounds like you have a good gameplan and products 👍🏼
Thx! One more thing: I'm going to apply 2 coats of BIN; will a coat of Fresh Start after that just be overkill?
@@MrRjnr yeah, it's not necessary then.
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy ok, thx so much!
No problem!@@MrRjnr
Hello I want to thank you for your time and putting a wonderful video, I am InThe process of painting my oak cabinets and I am confused about the sanding I was going to use 120 grind to sand then 220 , I also wanted to know that it looks like you need to different primer right I am willing to use the oil one because I hate the wood grain which brand of the oil primer should I buy also after the first coat of primer do I sand after each coat of primer, thank you.
120 then 220 is great to get rid of alot of the grain. Then I would follow up with Sherwin Williams "pro block oil- based" primer. It dries fast, thick and sands easily. Always lightly sand between coats just to get rid of contamination like fuzz or hair and smooth the surface for the next coat.
518 Painters thank you so much for your response so one more thing after the Sherman William oil primer I need to purchase the Benjamin more primer after that, sorry to bother you I just know that prep is so important and I want to make sure I get it right, thank you so much.
@@cam68644 no problem! I'm here to answer any question. You will not need any other primer if you use the SW oil primer👍
@@cam68644 sometimes I don't see all of the comments but you can always shoot me a text message or email and I'll get back asap! My info is on my website 518painters.com/blog
518 Painters this is my last bother my scenario is this I just started to sand my cabinets they are shinning oak I was trying to sand them bare and even brought aqua coat to fill in the grain and I find myself a bit overwhelmed I am doing it alone and have 17 doors can I use the aqua coat and the oil primer and Benjamin advance satin for my top coat, man I just want to put sledgehammer to this kitchen, I can see why it cost so much to do this type of work, thanks in advance also you have a great website
Thank you for putting out this video! I’m getting ready to begin my first big cabinet repaint job and I’m wondering if you’d recommend putting on stix bonding primer first and then followed by fresh start oil primer or vice verse?
Are you painting over previously painted cabinets?
518 Painters no, they’ve never been painted. They are stain grade with factory finish. Also, they are not as grainy as the oak ones you have in your video.
Gotcha @@trentendsley3355,
I would try a small section first using "pigmented white synthetic shellac". Let that sit for 1 hour and do a scratch test. If it sticks then use that instead of the stix. You'll save yourself a 16-hour dry time. But that stuff stinks and you have to ventilate well. If you don't want to mess with that smell (smells like a bunch of hairspray to the face) then use the stix and let it dry for 16 hours followed by Fresh Start Water Based Multi-Purpose Primer.
518 Painters you’re the man - thank you brother! Just to make sure, you would use the water based fresh start over the oil based?
Correct@@trentendsley3355 , unless you just use the oil-based first. The oil-based would be your "bonding primer" which in that case you would not need the stix or shellac. If you use the oil-based fresh start then you won't need another primer on top of that.
We use the fresh start just because stix does not hide well so to prevent having to do 3 top coats we use fresh start WB.
In your case, 1 coat of oil-based will be enough, unless it's really grainy then do to fill in.
I am getting unfinished cabinets. They will be new so what steps will I have to do. I want to paint those cabinets.
Same as here. Clean then prime with an oil based primer. 2 top coats and you're all set 👍🏼
Hello, another informative video. Would the same prep process be required if I wanted to re-stain my oak cabinets? I’d assume a different primer would be needed?
Thank you!
If you're staining your cabinets you'll need to sand them good until the wood is bare then you can stain them. You don't need a primer.
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy ok great! One more question, my current cabinets now are more like a golden Oak color which makes my kitchen look really dated. Currently new tile is being installed that has a lot of gray undertones. So I’m looking to update the cabinets. Being that they’re oak is there a suggested stain that wood tone down the golden yellowish color?
I would look at the Minwax stain color palette to get some color ideas then look up the color name on Pinterest @@brianagarcia1937
Ok great! Thanks again
Excellent system. Been doing cabinets for many years and I can tell you care about what you do. I noticed toward the end of your video you guys are using an hvlp. I used one for several years, but after being turned onto to a purple, fine-finish tip for an airless I never went back. So I still have my $1500 capspray sitting in my shop collecting dust.
Thank you! It was the other way around for me lol . I started with a titan 440i then switched to the hvlp.
Why did you turn away from the airless? What hvlp are you using, thx for the vids
When you use the bondo, are you not adding the hardener? I just noticed it was very grey
I run one bead across a 1-inch high pie. Not sure why the all-purpose Bondo always looks grey but it definitely gets solid.
What do you do about the holes you drilled to hang the doors????
That's easy, we fill them with Bondo. You always want to drill them opposite of the handle so that they're hidden. Then when you Bondo them you'll never know they was there.
Hi, I was wondering if I could use Benjamin Moore Fresh start multi-purpose oil base primer to prime 1st coat on oak cabinets? Which is better for oak cabinets the BM oil based or the zinsser high hide oil base seal/stain blocker? Thanks
BM oil based is better in my opinion. It has great hide. Zinsser is really good too. If the price difference is not an issue then go with BM.
Thank you 😁
Any time 😁@@tabithachapel7019
Thank you so much for this video. I just have a quick question. My first coat of primer i used a brush to brush on killz oil based primer. I sanded in between and then used a sprayer to spray on the second coat of the benjamin moore primer so I could practice with the sprayer before the final coats. I'm now trying to sand before the final coats and the paint is rolling up instead of becoming a powder. Is this normal.. or is this because I thinned the benjamin moore primer and sprayed it? TIA.
How long did you wait for each coat to dry? Also, did you clean and scuff before priming?
Yes I first cleaned the cabinets and then sanded. Blew them off, used a tack rag, and then primed oil based first then the Benjamin Moore primer you recommended. Waited 24 hours between coats.
The oil based primer sanded nicely. Now the benjamin moore paint is kind of rolling up when I sand..
@@thekristiowens6 the BM Advance needs to dry about 16-24 hours before you can lightly sand. Is it peeling off?
Its the BM all purpose high hiding primer (applied by spray) thats rolling up as I try to sand and still sticky, which is the 2nd coat of primer. First coat primer was Killz oil based primer applied by brush. I haven't applied the BM Aura paint yet. Also I stacked the doors to take them outside to sand and some of them stuck together and the primer pulled off in some small spots. It has been 20 hrs since the 2nd coat primer was sprayed, doors were hanging inside with an oscillation fan during that 20hr period... just wait more time? Or did I mess up by thinning the BM primer with water to spray the second coat of primer. We were hoping to sand the second coat of primer and put on first coat of paint today when we ran into the issue.
Benny moore is a top product, but that 16 hr dry time can cause you to lose money. Personally, I use Sherwin Williams Emerald line. It's a urethane enamel. Really good stuff, lays down nice, and 4 hr turn around on 2nd coats. I think where people goof, is not estimating enough time on cabinets. It's a sssslllllllow process. I'm doing my own kitchen cabinets right now and the hours are adding up. Good video!
Thanks!
I love SW Emerald but the finish of Advance is just nicer and feels better in my opinion.
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy good to know, always like to learn about a new product. I'll keep that in mind and try to work into my usual rotation. Another good video!
Thank you!@@skymedic48
How do I best strip old stain on oak cabinets
You'll have to sand them if it's stain
I have already painted my oak cabinets, but I want to repaint. do I
need to strip down back to wood?
Nope, just make sure it's compatible paint. Clean them first with a de-greaser, then a light scuff with some brillo pad, wipe again then paint 👍🏽
Thanks for the help and advice.like and subscribe already. 1 question for you I am going to paint some cabinets I just want to degloss them. Which praimer u think it's better, problock or extreme stainblocker from sherwin William's. Thanks for your time.
Thanks for the sub!
I personally like ProBlock because it dries fast and sands nice. They're both good primers tho.
Thanks a lot...I'll be waiting for your next video.
@@octaviomoreno8031 thank you! 🙏🏼
Can you brush on the products you mentioned if you don’t have a sprayer?
Absolutely! You can use a 4 inch 3/8 microfiber roller.
Hey my bro I ran into trouble I primed the oak cabinet with the oil base primer color grey and the my wife and I changed our mind with the color which is now white , I brought Benjamin Moore fresh start white not oil and man it’s hard to cover that grey , I about to just buy new if I can’t change this , any ideas , thanks
No problem! You'll have to prime it with 2 coats of FS then do 2 topcoats of the white paint.
Yea you'll be fine, It happens my dude. just like 518 said gonna have to do the 2/2 method. Might suck but give it a light sand and depending on your tip if your airless, you can use a 210 and get great atomization and better overall coverage without runouts
Thanks for that great professional advice! @@builderspluscustomhomesand2146
This was awesome. Do you have an affiliate group in the Bronx. I’m looking to do this job to my cabinets.
Thank you!
Unfortunately I don't have a spot in the BX.
If you could recommend anyone in this area. Let me know. Prices in getting are CRAZY
Hi I was wondering if you could recommend a good sealer clear topcoat paint to go over water based paint🤷🏻♀️
Water based polycrylic by minwax works good and is easy to work with
518 Painters You’re awesome for responding so quickly! Thanks 😉Brooklyn NY in the house 🙌
Okayyy BK All day 💪🏽
Thanks for watching! You can always reach out, I usually respond quick 👍🏼@@tigerlily1034
Angie if your cabinets are white do not use the water base polyurethane your cabinets will turn yellow.
Hi. Im starting to prep my cabinets. Im confused in the difference of using liquid sandpaper vs regular sanding? Also what did you use to plug the hardware holes in the doors to stop paint from getting in them? Thanks!
Sanding it will create a mechanical bond rather then a chemical bond that you would get with the liquid sander. Scuff Sanding is always better! Are you spraying or rolling your cabinets?
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy Hi again. Thx for your quick response. I'm planning to paint the lower groves in the door cabinets with a brush and then roll the larger areas with a 4" roller w 1/4" and 1/2" nap. I bought Sherwin Williams top of the line Emerald Enamel paint/Super Bond Primer and the recommended brushes/rollers they suggested with those particular paints. I'm trying to decide since they are oak cabinets if I dare try to use the Clear Aquacoat to take out the grain look. I know it's a lot more work but hell I went 21 years with the way they were now so I know once I finish this it's done for all eternity. lolI More important for me to do it right than rush through it but I'm a bit of a perfectionist so not trying to add unnecessary steps and be as efficient as possible. My nephew loaned me his dremel hand sander so scuff the surface but I'm a bit intimidated. 🥴
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy PS Your video and the info you provided as well as the written manual are very good. Thx for your knowledge to provide us with the details!
You got this! @@savvysupastar
You don't necessarily have to use a sander. Scuffing it up by hand works just as well. Imagine you are cleaning windows.
That's about as much pressure you'll need.
Thank you very much!
You can always reach out if you have any questions!@@savvysupastar
Do you need to sand in the grooves also ?
I always lightly sand them by folding some sandpaper 👌🏽
What suggestions do you have for beginners wanting too update the cheap particle cabinets in their trailer home?
Buy new ones. Those doors are only like $15 a piece. That'll save you a bunch of time and almost cost the same.
How does the PPG breakthrough touch up?
I love it! We do occasional touch ups with an artist brush and it looks great.
can you please let me know how much will it cost today for this size of kitchen to be painted by professionals??
Around $100-150 per door and $50-100 per drawer on average.
Hey bud, I noticed you used hvlp on the cabinets... is that water based paint? Im curious because Im about to buy one hvlp to do cabinets, but never try it, and I heard by using water based paint might clog the needles(even when thins out the paint) help menout here bud .. Great videos btw 👍
Thanks for watching!
I use water based paint and oil based primer and never had a problem with clogging. You can thin the paint but usually it is not necessary. I keep one gun for solvent based products and another for water-based.
Nice !!!! Mind if I ask what type of hvlp you use as well as the needle for latex... like I said Im planing on buying one , I looked at the graco and titan so far
I used to have the titan capspray but I switched to the Graco 9,5 contractor series, it is perfect for our needs. very powerful and a lot of control options between air and fluid@@thales4930 Check out this article www.518painters.com/paint-sprayers/
After I purchased it I wrote them an email about the free gun offer they have and they sent me a free finishpro gun.
Quick question: do I need to use both krud kutter and M1 degreaser or can I just use the krud kutter?
Krud kutter makes a deglosser and cleaner. If you get the one that says deglosser you won't need the m1.
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy also, which spray gun do you recommend? 😄
@@ilovericecakes the Graco HVLP 9.5 is great for beginners and professionals in my opinion.
Can you spray that EVO product with an airless? Oh, and Benjamin Moore will be launching a Breakthrough type product in a few months.
Yes you can spray it with an airless. What is the product called, you know?
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy It's still kind of under wraps but they are doing some field testing on it. Ask your BM Rep about "Command".
I'll check it out, thanks!@@Monarchski
I am trying to paint my oak cabinets, I used Krud Kutter and cleaned them all up good then I sanded them down really well. Now when I primed them a yellow tint keeps seeping through. I have 8 coats on one door and it still has a slight yellow tint. What am I doing wrong? I don't want to have to paint each one with 10 coats :(
Don't worry, I can help!
What primer are you using?
Kilz one coat I believe
@@brittanyjohnson2313 switch to an oil based primer like Coverstain or Sherwin Williams Pro Block
Ok, thank you. I will try that. I ended up putting 10 layers of paint on my cabinet doors and one set is still yellow. I just gave up at that point lol. Thankfully, they're only in my laundry room, not my kitchen. Should I sand all the paint off first or just put the primer right over it?
@@brittanyjohnson2313 if you are willing to do the work I'd say sand it down, but it's a lot of work with that many layers. However, you can go over the paint with the oil-based primer and it will block your stains.
If you can just email me some pictures or DM me on IG so I can take a look👍🏼
Approx how much did you charge for that job? I have a kitchen a bit bigger than that I'm thinking of having done and would appreciate knowing before I get any bids
Depends on the area you live in but usually it's around $100/door and $50/drawer.
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy Thank you, nice video
@@walleyefisher01 Thanks for watching!
I see you're spraying the doors but what about the cabinetry themselves? Are you masking and spraying those in home or brushing those?
It depends. Grainy wood like oak we'll brush and roll with a 4 inch mohair roller. But otherwise, we mask and spray in the home.
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy Thanks so much, great vid
@@timcole421 thanks for watching!
Do you service outside of 518? NYC??
Unfortunately,it's a bit too far to service.
TFS! 👍👍👍👍👍✌️❤️🇺🇸
Is it possible to use a water based primer for the cabinet boxes since it’s indoors? Won’t the oil based primer fumes be too much if used indoors? I will definitely use a respirator but I’m still concerned about the fumes🤷🏻♀️
The oil stinks, you're right. It's the only thing that'll block tannin bleed though. You can use a Waterbased primer but I would suggest "INSL-X STIX" and let it dry over night!
I really appreciate the quick response😀 Keep up the good work because your information is invaluable👍
518 Painters I just read reviews on this primer and they say it peels and cracks🙀 I think that I will stick to the primers you suggested, wear a top notch respirator, have all windows and doors open during priming and spend the night at a hotel for my heath’s sake😅
Sounds like a plan😁@@tigerlily1034
If want you cam use Sherwin Williams's Pro Block. It has a little less odor and dries a bit faster. Just a little.
What kind of cabinets do you have?@@tigerlily1034
So the main thing is sanding and several primer ...sanding.....before paint...correct?
Correct. Clean good, scuff sand, prime, light sand, paint.
What about those holes you put in the doors? How/when do you fix those? Thanks and good to see your videos.
Thanks!
We use Bondo glazing and spot putty. It's like $7 and dries super fast. Then we just touch up with a small brush. You'll never see those holes after you patch them because of the filler and where they are located.
518painter,
What do you think about Sherwin Williams Kem Aqua Plus ?
Not bad. It can be a bit finicky and has a slight learning curve as far as runs but overall good. I would still go with BM Advance or Gemini Evo over Kem Aqua.
518 Painters
Okay , gotcha .
518 Painters
So, Gemini Evo is a water borne pigmented lacquer correct?
Correct @@culturalhouse2643. The finish is amazing for it being wb👌🏼
518 Painters
Gotcha . Thanks .
I do my cabinets the exact same way as you do, although on my last job while spraying my gemini Hydropure Semi Gloss, I fing micro bubbles and a rough finish, I ended up having to sand everything smooth and shoot a semi gloss clear coat ontop instead. The Hydro Pure Clear coat drys nice and buttery smooth, I think from now on if a customer requests semi gloss, I will shoot my color coat in the dull sheen then top coat it with the semi clear, it just lays out so smooth.
Any tips on how to smooth out a rough coat before shooting another coat of the hydro Semi? I used the semi on a previous job, oak cabinets and everything turned out great, but on this job, all the cabinets where smooth and flat. and I keep finding little dirt and debris in my paint and a rough finish, no matter how I set up my gun settings. The funny thing is, on all my sample doors, which are oak there where no issues, but on these flat doors its been an issues, I have even added a shot of X-IM extender to help it lay out. I should mention I shoot everythinging using a titan capspray HVLP and have for a few years now.
I guess right now I am just trying to do damage control and sand out all these doors so I can then shoot a satin base coat and then apply a semi clear ontop of that. This customer has been very, very particular, going around with the flashlight on his phone pointing out every defect. After I finished the cabinet boxes at the customers home (I have a workshop at home where I do the doors and drawers) and unmasked everything, the husband decided the color was slightly off and wanted it redone, even though I shot out a sample and got his approval. Then after changing the color and providing more samples, he decided the original color was the better match after all. Been a nightmare, since I have already shot out all the cabinet doors with the semi gloss hydropure which has been causing me issues. How fine of grit do you think I need to sand with before I can respray with the satin top coat then semi clear coat. This isn't normally how I would get the job done but sometimes you gotta think outside the box to get the results that makes the customer happy and then get the heck out of there and onto the next job. I haven't found too many other video's where people used the hydropure so any tips or advice with all this sanding and getting out the little dust nibs and boogers without scratching up the coat of semi too much to where it will be seen under additional coats would help out alot. I just switched to gemini hydropure from Sierra performance beyond acrylic enamel. I use 2 coats of BIN, sand between coats, use a base coat of the Gemini Primer, then usually 2 to 3 Coats of the Top coat, first time I've had issues.
I've noticed those micro bubbles a lot lately. Which made me go back to using Kem Aqua on smooth doors like maple or cherry wood.
I tried less air and various different primers but is still get those bubbles except for on oak cabinets.
Have you tried wet sanding them with 400 or 600 grit yet?
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy Yup I'm actually at the stage where I am wet sanding up to 3000 grit then putting a semi clear coat over it, the clear comes out feeling silky smooth and buttery. I ended up doing the rest of the cabinets in the kitchen area in a Satin and then putting a semi clear over everything. I would have preferred to have done a dull sheen first but my customer doesn't have much of a tolerance range for error or slight color variances, it's nuts. But I did learn alot about clear coating over finishes and sanding, lots and lots of sanding. The customers are definitely great, friendly people just happens to be even more of a perfectionist than me, lol. He did go in on halves to buy me a Surfprep Sander as a tip and I would credit half the cost to the invoice, which I thought was really cool, expensive little sanders but I have wanted one for awhile now. hopefully will cut sanding time in half on future jobs.
I have honestly always used sierra performance beyond Acrylic Enamel for the past 10 years because that's what product the company where I learned to paint cabinets used.Then when I went out on my own I used it for about another 5 years, This has only been my second time using something different, the hydro pure, I have been wanting to explore more cabinet finishing systems lately. Kem Aqua, is that a Sherwins product? I typically only ever goto Kelly Moore, my sales rep takes care of me and always hooks me up with used demo equipment for way low prices. But I am always open to learning more. I typically like to use HVLP and I live in California, hopefully the EPA laws haven't banned us from using the product, like they did with denatured alcohol... luckily I stockpiled a TON when I heard that no one would be restocking.
I've been watching alot of the videos about 2k poly and the renner products, I'd like to play around with that system, if only I didn't have to special order before a job, then you know the customer will change their mind about the color last minute. lol. Thanks for the reply I'm glad I'm not the only one having issues with the semi on non oak cabinets, I couldn't figure it out. Solvent pop maybe, from whatever was originally on the cabs?
The de-glosser is after sanding to remove any leftover gloss that sanding did not remove
Serious question, why do you brush the primer and not spray? Also grain filler..look up AQUA COAT.. it's a water based grain filler and it's less hassle then bondo. Either way, really happy you brought up lacquer, i was scared you were gonna say something else... Lacquer is KING of cabinet coatings.
Good question,
We brush the primer to fill the grain more as in comparison to spraying.
I've experienced that Aqua Coat takes 3,4 sometimes 5 coats depending on the grain. Labor cost for that is just too much for most customers.
Bondo will cut that time by almost 50% but is still labor intensive and costly.
Lacquer and FPE are the most durable for sure👍🏼
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Also, question...what sander are you guys using? I like that
@@buddybarlow9604 that's a DTS 400 by Festool but Mirka makes one that's just as good but way less in price.
Mixing hours and hours of bondo to grain fill get brushing putty call it a day…Evo is nice dries fast…I stay away from normal waterborne or solvent based conversion varnish
Great video... Do you recommend a company or similar company out in Los Angeles to repaint my oak kitchen cabinets in my apartment? Thanks
I can take a look and see if I know a good company in that area. Are you on Instagram or Facebook by any chance?
👏👏👏👍
What are you doing with the holes you drill afterwards?
The way they are position do you will never really see them. But if you want to fill them we use 3M spot and glaze putty.
You are beautiful!
Thank you for your compliment. I hope the video helped!
Y'all shoulda showed a close-up of at least 1 of the cabinets after install.
Next time.
You can check out our website to see close ups 👍🏼
ok your upstate NY i need some painting done to my new home in Walkill deff calling your company first on my list of estimates
I like that!
@@DIYhomeimprovementguy Do you recommend any clear coats after the second coat?
Not necessary. The product is very durable @@Andrew-yy6zo
Where are you located?
Albany NY
Hey thanks for all your helpful information
@@kellystork2954 thank you 😊