Guess you had to disconnect the wires again to get the gasket on, but thanks for the overview of the process! I recently saw a walkthrough video of the bafang factory, and it looks like they now protect the electronics a lot better, submerged in non conductive sealant.
Actually the gasket can be put on easily even if the wires are connected. Not sure of the benefit of encasing the board in resin for the user. This means no board repair or upgrade of mosfets etc.
Is it just me or does this controller fry really easily. Combined with headset cable routing it's not a good situation if the slightest damage happens to the display cable.
You’re not suppose to use cornhead grease in these motors..it’s viscosity is too low and it gets on the controller and torque sensor and fries it..use mobil shc or something
I have thrown away the G510 motor that has stopped working. It may have worked if I replaced the controller. I'm afraid The G510 I'm using now is an early model. Will the performance improve with the new controller?
You probably could have repaired the old 510 with some diagnostics. You should at lease have saved it for spare parts! The new controller will not improve performance. You can make changes in performance by altering programming. If you have poor performance or jerky power bands then a reprogram might help. I'm fine with the stock programming as I have over 4,000 miles with little program changes. The only problem I ever had was not calibrating the new controller to the motor. That makes a big difference in smooth power curve. Best of luck and happy riding! You cant beat the power of the Bafang when climbing long steep hills!!
I accidentally shorted out the controller before I even installed the motor on the frame. It destroyed my display unit too. There's no short circuit protection on this system. The capacitors in the controller held a charge so this can easily happen when unplugged from the battery.
I feel your pain! When you replace a controller model Cr r10m.1000.Sn.u.1.5 you have to calibrate the motor to the new controller. I just found this out march 2022. You do this with the C961 display that has been programmed to go into diagnostic mode.
@@BruceTheSniper Hello Bruce. All C961 displays can go into diagnostic mode once loaded with the program from Bafang's programming tool. I went to Bafang Los Angeles and they programmed my display for me. Not sure where you are located to have access to the programmer at a dealer or Bafang.
@@filoncmike I found the instructions online with the hex code to upload to the display. If that doesn't work, I'll get in touch with my contact at Bafang LA, thanks for the heads up.
IS there any other way to do the calibration?!? Im getting a new controller for my Ultra with similar controller model. Nobody has any C961 calibration tools. Can I buy BSST and calibrate without access code?!? Just curious how I can calibrate my new controller (or is it not always necessary?!? I do have the USB programming cable and the software for tweaking)
My experience was the controller if not matched to the motor would not bring on power going up hills. When you needed it most, it wasn’t there. Very frustrating. When you got to the top of the hill, on came the power! I found the c961 controller on line and luckily we have a Bafang factory rep in LA. He swapped my c961 for his that was programmed to go into diagnostic mode. It then took 2 min to hook the motor up and with c961 attached it spun very slowly and done!! Now power comes on smoothly going up the steepest hills. I would try the new controller as is, then search for someone with Bafang that has a programmed c961. Good luck!!
Hope you can answer a question..while upgrading the wires (pos and neg on the main harness) and having the motor on my bench, while cutting of the ends of the wires the neg and pos wires touched and there was a small spark...I assumed the capacitor in the controller, but now when I put it back together I only have throttle and not and kind of pedal assist. I guess I need another board, but Im reading they need to be calibrated???...did this work after you installed it?..Thanks
It is so hard to track exactly what burns out when those wires are shorted. The entire 5v circuit seems to burn out. Yes the controller needs to be aligned with the motor. I had bafang program my c961 display to do the job. Makes motor operate smoothly according to program. Good luck!!
I’m sorry. I thought you shorted the speed sensor wires. Shorting the main leads will only unload the capacitors. This shouldn’t cause the PAS to stop working. Look elsewhere for a disconnected wire.
@Mike Filonczuk Thanks for the reply...that's what I thought as well...I was contacted by Henry from Frey..he wants me to do a video and will send me a tester of some sort to try and diagnose the problem...I'm going to get into the motor again and check the pins see if one has poked through or something...
@@filoncmike Well after carefully watching your video again, it appears that I put the 6 pin wiring harness from the motor in the wrong connector. I put it in the POWER connector, where in your video that is empty on both boards..I am going to put it in the same connector you put your 6 pin wiring harness from the motor in. Perhaps that is why I had no pedal assist...
Hi Mike! I congratulate you for the video. I have the Bafang m620 with 1000km and perfect. I took the ebike for a km review and I had to change the chain and sprockets due to wear. When I went out to test it, everything was going correctly until the engine stopped assisting. The display marked the assistance mode but the motor did not work. However, the walk mode does provide assistance... Turn it off and when it turned on it worked perfectly. I turned it off again and stopped attending. Any advice? thank you!
Hello Mike Filonczuk! I would like to ask about the motor i have the same motor and my pedal asistent stopped workin the motor is working the gass (acceleration ) its give me power but the prdal asistent its nit working i do not want to use it like this its not so much fun and my battery is not last so longer like whit the PAS . Can you help me with this maybe what do you saggest what can i check what can be the problem? It was a day when started to work again for 10 minutes and then stopped again...
Did you figure out the problem? Check your speed sensor with a magnet. Pass the magnet back and forth in front of your sensor and see if speed registers. If not check for 5 volts at the red wire on your sensor. Black is ground. Check my other video for testing the sensor. If you don’t get a voltage there, you may have shorted out your 5 volt circuit. You may need a new controller.
Burnt my controller and display while using the thumb throttle. Replaced both, display and controller. Calibrated with C961 (Er 44). Walking mode is working, brake sensors are working, head and rear lights are working. Pedal assist, speedometer and throttle still not working. Any ideas?
Oh boy! are there any more error codes? disconnect both brake sensors and check your speed sensor at rear wheel for proper 5v. Could sensor have been shorted? Unfortunately this will take a lot of tracking and testing to narrow it down.
You will have to carefully cut into the covering in the sensor wire by the back wheel and check voltage between red and black wires with power on. Blue wire is the signal wire. Do not short them. Code 21 is a fault in sensor. When you matched motor to controller did motor spin slowly by itself?
@@filoncmike I have a bike with M400. I will put the bike together and will try it with the M400 speed sensor instead. It should be the same sensor as the M620 sensor, right?
Thanks for the detailed installation video. I have a G510 motor that has the CAN interface on it. Do you have any experience with replacing a CAN controller board with a UART controller board? From the wiring it looks like the only wires that go to the motor are the phase wires. So I'm thinking that the UART controller should work on a motor that currently has a CAN controller. Thanks
I made a mistake, I confused my new bike with the old one! I believe my new controller w Uart worked with the old display. So hopefully it will work for you, although the DPC18 is worth the upgrade!
@@prational You'll need to change the harness and display to the UART versions or run an adapter cable from CAN connector to the round Higo for the new display.
Can I swap the m420 with a m620? Would it fit in the same layout? My m420 feels like it has some slipping when using certain assistance and gear combinations. Sometimes the screen and assistance switches off but the battery leds are still on. Otherwise these are lovely powerful motors.
I compared the dimensions of the 420 vs 620 and they are very different mounting hole configuration. You would have to swap out the m620 bottom bracket. I would just get a new bike. Time to upgrade to the Ultra!!
Hello Kie! The G510 controllers are pretty bulletproof. The only time I have had a failure was from shorting out the 5volt output to the speed sensor or brake sensors. If you don’t have 5 volts at those red wires going to sensors you may have a short somewhere. If the motor is not turning at all, look first for codes they will tell you what is wrong usually. Unplug brake sensors and see if motor works indicating mis aligned or bad brake sensor. The motor will not run if it thinks the brake is engaged. Check for 5 volts at throttle also. Do you have any power? Check for burned or melted battery connections or melted battery terminals. Ride safe!
Hey I have an M620 and I replaced the motor core (stator) and it’s running backwards (reverse direction). When I run the motor calibration it goes forward but I get an error code
Hi mike, having few in the beginning now constantly error 21 on my m620, the speed sensor is aligned , sensor wire is a bit scratched where enters motor body. you think it’s sensor wire issue or control gone bad?, greatly appreciate you’re input ,thanks. Sean.
The three wire sensor has a 5volt red wire, a ground wire and a signal wire. If you are able, test for the 5 volts across red and black wires. When the magnet comes is close proximity to the hall sensor, the signal wire is energized. Some sensors have light on them that signals it is working. It sounds like your sensor is bad. Highly doubt controller is bad. If you want to replace hall sensor, see my other code 21 video. Good luck!!!
I have seen on some Ultra builds that the speed sensor wire was routed between the motor and mount, if this was done, the wires were definitely pinched. The wire route should be between the plastic cover and motor, this also makes it easier to replace if damaged (no motor removal needed). Either way the problem is in the sensor......
Hi Mike where is the temp sensor on this unit? mine keeps flashing up on the dash temp warning even if the bike is dead cold. Error code :11 Fault with temperature sensor inside the motor.
Hello Junior, I think the two black wires that snap into the controller marked hall are the temp sensor. I haven't had that code pop up and I ride the heck out of the bike on hot days with two mile uphill climbs without any problem. I added an aquarium temp gauge in the beginning to check and on the hottest days it only got up to 110 deg F. Look on the forums and there are people with the same problem. There doesn't seem to be an easy solution. It may be possible to install a new sensor to the black wires but I don't know what that sensor might be or the specs on it. Good Luck!!
i have a bafang ultra g510/m620 motor here , the issue i am having is it will not spin. it makes a humming noise for a second or two before a clicking noise is heard and the humming stops. i've taken the motor completely apart, tested it while apart, and the motor output gear(little angled one) just vibrates a little instead of spinning. my guess is bad controller. what do you think?
@@filoncmike Thanks for your quick response i do appreciate it. i thought the same thing but they are all plugged into the correct colour, yellow to yellow, blue to blue, green to green. They all seem connected firmly. One thing i did by accident was spin the motor output gear while disassembling. I wouldn't think that would affect anything, do you think it would? I tried rotating it to every possible location before testing and nothing worked. sometimes it just humms, sometimes it vibrates, and sometimes it would flick a few spots and then stop. a couple times it made 1-2 revolutions before stopping. almost seems like a dead battery but it reads 95% and screen turns on brightly. Sorry im lost and looking for anything lol. Do you think a new motor controller would even fix an issue like this?
Spinning the gear will not cause any issues. It sounds like one of the phase wires is not getting power. I would contact bafang in LA and ask them. I do think the new controller will fix the problem but you will still have to match it with the motor. My only other question is what brought on the failure? We’re you riding or did you short something? No codes ever?
@@filoncmike How do i determine which controller I need for my motor? I understand there is two types, UART and CAN-BUS. I am also reading conflicting results about whether a new controller would need to be recalibrated with a special display. I've read UART doesn't need to be recalibrated, only CAN, and i've also read the exact opposite. The failure is a mystery to me since it's not my bike, I can't say for sure what symptoms it had before taking it apart. A friend asked me if i could replace the torque sensor since pedal assist isn't working, so i went ahead and did that assuming it would fix the issue. I never tested before replacing it so I can't say for sure if the throttle worked before or not. My guess now is that the torque sensor was not the problem to begin with, and possible something to do with the controller.
@@bmxscape get your controller from greenbikekit.com here's the link: www.greenbikekit.com/bafang-ultra-motor-controller-52v.html give them your serial number and they will sell you the right controller and watch the videos. they are very helpful and respond quickly. Good luck!!
Can you help me please I have a frey am 1000 the motor looks fine but when i use the throttle it only starts the motor for a second and then stops what could be the reason I hope you can help me no one has being able to.
@@filoncmike I tried it now but still not working. Not even pedal assist works. When I pressed down on assisting modes and hold after get to zero bike star moving with motor but thats the only way motor keeps working for more time than using the throttle.
I know this is an old video, but the 2 (black) wire plug is **NOT** a hall sensor - it's a thermistor temperature sensor for overheat protection. I believe the M620 uses an 'encoder' setup to read rotor position, based on a cylinder magnet attached to the other end (non-gear side) of the motor shaft. I stumbled on this video looking for more information about the M620 encoder and possibly changing it to a traditional hall sensor setup for use with most aftermarket higher performance controllers.
Guess you had to disconnect the wires again to get the gasket on, but thanks for the overview of the process! I recently saw a walkthrough video of the bafang factory, and it looks like they now protect the electronics a lot better, submerged in non conductive sealant.
Actually the gasket can be put on easily even if the wires are connected. Not sure of the benefit of encasing the board in resin for the user. This means no board repair or upgrade of mosfets etc.
Cornhead grease👍🏻
best stuff ever - right? ride safe buddy!!
Is it just me or does this controller fry really easily. Combined with headset cable routing it's not a good situation if the slightest damage happens to the display cable.
You’re not suppose to use cornhead grease in these motors..it’s viscosity is too low and it gets on the controller and torque sensor and fries it..use mobil shc or something
I have thrown away the G510 motor that has stopped working.
It may have worked if I replaced the controller.
I'm afraid
The G510 I'm using now is an early model.
Will the performance improve with the new controller?
You probably could have repaired the old 510 with some diagnostics. You should at lease have saved it for spare parts! The new controller will not improve performance. You can make changes in performance by altering programming. If you have poor performance or jerky power bands then a reprogram might help. I'm fine with the stock programming as I have over 4,000 miles with little program changes. The only problem I ever had was not calibrating the new controller to the motor. That makes a big difference in smooth power curve. Best of luck and happy riding! You cant beat the power of the Bafang when climbing long steep hills!!
I accidentally shorted out the controller before I even installed the motor on the frame. It destroyed my display unit too.
There's no short circuit protection on this system.
The capacitors in the controller held a charge so this can easily happen when unplugged from the battery.
I feel your pain! When you replace a controller model Cr r10m.1000.Sn.u.1.5 you have to calibrate the motor to the new controller. I just found this out march 2022. You do this with the C961 display that has been programmed to go into diagnostic mode.
@@filoncmike Do all the C961 displays have the ability to go int diagnostic mode?
@@BruceTheSniper Hello Bruce. All C961 displays can go into diagnostic mode once loaded with the program from Bafang's programming tool. I went to Bafang Los Angeles and they programmed my display for me. Not sure where you are located to have access to the programmer at a dealer or Bafang.
@@filoncmike I found the instructions online with the hex code to upload to the display. If that doesn't work, I'll get in touch with my contact at Bafang LA, thanks for the heads up.
IS there any other way to do the calibration?!? Im getting a new controller for my Ultra with similar controller model. Nobody has any C961 calibration tools. Can I buy BSST and calibrate without access code?!? Just curious how I can calibrate my new controller (or is it not always necessary?!? I do have the USB programming cable and the software for tweaking)
Jeff, where are you located?
@@filoncmike sask Canada.....
My experience was the controller if not matched to the motor would not bring on power going up hills. When you needed it most, it wasn’t there. Very frustrating. When you got to the top of the hill, on came the power! I found the c961 controller on line and luckily we have a Bafang factory rep in LA. He swapped my c961 for his that was programmed to go into diagnostic mode. It then took 2 min to hook the motor up and with c961 attached it spun very slowly and done!! Now power comes on smoothly going up the steepest hills. I would try the new controller as is, then search for someone with Bafang that has a programmed c961. Good luck!!
Hope you can answer a question..while upgrading the wires (pos and neg on the main harness) and having the motor on my bench, while cutting of the ends of the wires the neg and pos wires touched and there was a small spark...I assumed the capacitor in the controller, but now when I put it back together I only have throttle and not and kind of pedal assist. I guess I need another board, but Im reading they need to be calibrated???...did this work after you installed it?..Thanks
It is so hard to track exactly what burns out when those wires are shorted. The entire 5v circuit seems to burn out. Yes the controller needs to be aligned with the motor. I had bafang program my c961 display to do the job. Makes motor operate smoothly according to program. Good luck!!
I’m sorry. I thought you shorted the speed sensor wires. Shorting the main leads will only unload the capacitors. This shouldn’t cause the PAS to stop working. Look elsewhere for a disconnected wire.
@Mike Filonczuk Thanks for the reply...that's what I thought as well...I was contacted by Henry from Frey..he wants me to do a video and will send me a tester of some sort to try and diagnose the problem...I'm going to get into the motor again and check the pins see if one has poked through or something...
@@filoncmike Well after carefully watching your video again, it appears that I put the 6 pin wiring harness from the motor in the wrong connector. I put it in the POWER connector, where in your video that is empty on both boards..I am going to put it in the same connector you put your 6 pin wiring harness from the motor in. Perhaps that is why I had no pedal assist...
@@johnnyzee383 I thought it was something like that. It should work now!!
Hi Mike! I congratulate you for the video. I have the Bafang m620 with 1000km and perfect. I took the ebike for a km review and I had to change the chain and sprockets due to wear. When I went out to test it, everything was going correctly until the engine stopped assisting. The display marked the assistance mode but the motor did not work. However, the walk mode does provide assistance... Turn it off and when it turned on it worked perfectly. I turned it off again and stopped attending. Any advice? thank you!
Disconnect your brake motor shut off cables one at a time. If it works again you know that brake is not adjusted properly or is defective. Good luck!!
@@filoncmike thanks!! i will try
drive.google.com/file/d/1ucbZE5oRysJ0E53uOKCvX1owjXsUE0Jl/view?usp=sharing
Hello Mike Filonczuk!
I would like to ask about the motor i have the same motor and my pedal asistent stopped workin the motor is working the gass (acceleration ) its give me power but the prdal asistent its nit working i do not want to use it like this its not so much fun and my battery is not last so longer like whit the PAS .
Can you help me with this maybe what do you saggest what can i check what can be the problem?
It was a day when started to work again for 10 minutes and then stopped again...
Adrian, did you get any error codes?
@@filoncmike yes but in the past and very really and it was for one minute and then gone
@@adrianchester do you remember what the code was?
@@filoncmike 04 and 21
Did you figure out the problem? Check your speed sensor with a magnet. Pass the magnet back and forth in front of your sensor and see if speed registers. If not check for 5 volts at the red wire on your sensor. Black is ground. Check my other video for testing the sensor. If you don’t get a voltage there, you may have shorted out your 5 volt circuit. You may need a new controller.
Burnt my controller and display while using the thumb throttle. Replaced both, display and controller. Calibrated with C961 (Er 44). Walking mode is working, brake sensors are working, head and rear lights are working. Pedal assist, speedometer and throttle still not working. Any ideas?
Oh boy! are there any more error codes? disconnect both brake sensors and check your speed sensor at rear wheel for proper 5v. Could sensor have been shorted? Unfortunately this will take a lot of tracking and testing to narrow it down.
@@filoncmike While calibrating it starts with Er 40, Er 41, stops at Er 44. No error codes at C18 display. How to measure 5v at the speed sensor?
You will have to carefully cut into the covering in the sensor wire by the back wheel and check voltage between red and black wires with power on. Blue wire is the signal wire. Do not short them. Code 21 is a fault in sensor. When you matched motor to controller did motor spin slowly by itself?
@@filoncmike While calibration motor spins slowly by itself, yes! And walking mode is working as it should! No error codes at C18.
@@filoncmike I have a bike with M400. I will put the bike together and will try it with the M400 speed sensor instead. It should be the same sensor as the M620 sensor, right?
Thanks for the detailed installation video.
I have a G510 motor that has the CAN interface on it. Do you have any experience with replacing a CAN controller board with a UART controller board? From the wiring it looks like the only wires that go to the motor are the phase wires. So I'm thinking that the UART controller should work on a motor that currently has a CAN controller. Thanks
I don't think there is any problem. Everything performs the same. Good luck!!
@@filoncmike Thanks. I Will let you know how I make out. I have a UART controller on order.
Just to make sure, you will need a UART display. I have the DPC 18. It is very good!! Good luck!!
I made a mistake, I confused my new bike with the old one! I believe my new controller w Uart worked with the old display. So hopefully it will work for you, although the DPC18 is worth the upgrade!
@@prational You'll need to change the harness and display to the UART versions or run an adapter cable from CAN connector to the round Higo for the new display.
Can I swap the m420 with a m620? Would it fit in the same layout? My m420 feels like it has some slipping when using certain assistance and gear combinations. Sometimes the screen and assistance switches off but the battery leds are still on. Otherwise these are lovely powerful motors.
I compared the dimensions of the 420 vs 620 and they are very different mounting hole configuration. You would have to swap out the m620 bottom bracket. I would just get a new bike. Time to upgrade to the Ultra!!
How do you troubleshoot the controller to determine if it needs to be replaced or not What are the symptoms?
Hello Kie! The G510 controllers are pretty bulletproof. The only time I have had a failure was from shorting out the 5volt output to the speed sensor or brake sensors. If you don’t have 5 volts at those red wires going to sensors you may have a short somewhere. If the motor is not turning at all, look first for codes they will tell you what is wrong usually. Unplug brake sensors and see if motor works indicating mis aligned or bad brake sensor. The motor will not run if it thinks the brake is engaged. Check for 5 volts at throttle also. Do you have any power? Check for burned or melted battery connections or melted battery terminals. Ride safe!
Hey I have an M620 and I replaced the motor core (stator) and it’s running backwards (reverse direction). When I run the motor calibration it goes forward but I get an error code
I know it sounds crazy, but are you absolutely sure you have the three field wires correct?
@@filoncmikeI am. I even swapped them to see if changing the root somehow changed the polarity
@@mikehtiger have you had any success with your problem?
Did you need to calibrate the new controller?
Hi mike, having few in the beginning now constantly error 21 on my m620, the speed sensor is aligned , sensor wire is a bit scratched where enters motor body. you think it’s sensor wire issue or control gone bad?, greatly appreciate you’re input ,thanks. Sean.
The three wire sensor has a 5volt red wire, a ground wire and a signal wire. If you are able, test for the 5 volts across red and black wires. When the magnet comes is close proximity to the hall sensor, the signal wire is energized. Some sensors have light on them that signals it is working. It sounds like your sensor is bad. Highly doubt controller is bad. If you want to replace hall sensor, see my other code 21 video. Good luck!!!
I have seen on some Ultra builds that the speed sensor wire was routed between the motor and mount, if this was done, the wires were definitely pinched. The wire route should be between the plastic cover and motor, this also makes it easier to replace if damaged (no motor removal needed). Either way the problem is in the sensor......
Hi Mike where is the temp sensor on this unit? mine keeps flashing up on the dash temp warning even if the bike is dead cold.
Error code :11 Fault with temperature sensor inside the motor.
Hello Junior, I think the two black wires that snap into the controller marked hall are the temp sensor. I haven't had that code pop up and I ride the heck out of the bike on hot days with two mile uphill climbs without any problem. I added an aquarium temp gauge in the beginning to check and on the hottest days it only got up to 110 deg F.
Look on the forums and there are people with the same problem. There doesn't seem to be an easy solution. It may be possible to install a new sensor to the black wires but I don't know what that sensor might be or the specs on it. Good Luck!!
Ignore it
i have a bafang ultra g510/m620 motor here , the issue i am having is it will not spin. it makes a humming noise for a second or two before a clicking noise is heard and the humming stops. i've taken the motor completely apart, tested it while apart, and the motor output gear(little angled one) just vibrates a little instead of spinning. my guess is bad controller. what do you think?
Sounds like you field wires are switched? Check those before buying a new controller.
@@filoncmike Thanks for your quick response i do appreciate it. i thought the same thing but they are all plugged into the correct colour, yellow to yellow, blue to blue, green to green. They all seem connected firmly. One thing i did by accident was spin the motor output gear while disassembling. I wouldn't think that would affect anything, do you think it would? I tried rotating it to every possible location before testing and nothing worked. sometimes it just humms, sometimes it vibrates, and sometimes it would flick a few spots and then stop. a couple times it made 1-2 revolutions before stopping. almost seems like a dead battery but it reads 95% and screen turns on brightly.
Sorry im lost and looking for anything lol. Do you think a new motor controller would even fix an issue like this?
Spinning the gear will not cause any issues. It sounds like one of the phase wires is not getting power. I would contact bafang in LA and ask them. I do think the new controller will fix the problem but you will still have to match it with the motor. My only other question is what brought on the failure? We’re you riding or did you short something? No codes ever?
@@filoncmike How do i determine which controller I need for my motor? I understand there is two types, UART and CAN-BUS. I am also reading conflicting results about whether a new controller would need to be recalibrated with a special display. I've read UART doesn't need to be recalibrated, only CAN, and i've also read the exact opposite.
The failure is a mystery to me since it's not my bike, I can't say for sure what symptoms it had before taking it apart. A friend asked me if i could replace the torque sensor since pedal assist isn't working, so i went ahead and did that assuming it would fix the issue. I never tested before replacing it so I can't say for sure if the throttle worked before or not.
My guess now is that the torque sensor was not the problem to begin with, and possible something to do with the controller.
@@bmxscape get your controller from greenbikekit.com here's the link: www.greenbikekit.com/bafang-ultra-motor-controller-52v.html give them your serial number and they will sell you the right controller and watch the videos. they are very helpful and respond quickly. Good luck!!
Do you have a source for the controller you recommend?
greenbikekit.com has them for $60 but the only work on a UART controller. Ride safe!!
sorry - C961
@@filoncmikethanks, how do I know which one I have? Uart or can?. Im sure I got 48v
@@zj4041 send a pic of your serial number on the bottom of the motor to greenbikekit.com or bafang and they will tell you. Good luck!!
Can you help me please I have a frey am 1000 the motor looks fine but when i use the throttle it only starts the motor for a second and then stops what could be the reason I hope you can help me no one has being able to.
Have you tried disconnecting your brake signal wires? One may be malfunctioning. Did you get an error code?
any luck Rebel?
@@filoncmike no error code and I have disconnect all cables and put them back no change
Did you disconnect brake plugs then run the motor with them disconnected?
@@filoncmike I tried it now but still not working. Not even pedal assist works. When I pressed down on assisting modes and hold after get to zero bike star moving with motor but thats the only way motor keeps working for more time than using the throttle.
I know this is an old video, but the 2 (black) wire plug is **NOT** a hall sensor - it's a thermistor temperature sensor for overheat protection.
I believe the M620 uses an 'encoder' setup to read rotor position, based on a cylinder magnet attached to the other end (non-gear side) of the motor shaft.
I stumbled on this video looking for more information about the M620 encoder and possibly changing it to a traditional hall sensor setup for use with most aftermarket higher performance controllers.
Thanks Privateer! I think you are correct. It is odd however the socket the plug goes into the board is marked "HALL"