Thanks for the video. This was very helpful when I replaced my fuel filter last year, but I noticed I was getting less mileage per tank after doing so. I discovered you reassembled the fuel pump baffle (the big parts filter) upside down. See 5:25 when you pull out the fuel pump and 6:17 while it's sitting on the towel, vs 8:25 when you drop it back into the tank. With the tank oriented rightside up, the way you've assembled this also has the baffle pointing UP, hence not drawing fuel from the lowest point in the tank. Easy mistake to make, and since I followed your video only referencing 8:25 when dropping it back in, I did the same thing. I can confirm that this shortened my mileage per tank by approximately 20-30 miles, once running out of gas on route 78. I took everything apart again, rotated the baffle, and reassembled, and now back to normal.
You know, I rewatched this a few times, but I'm not seeing what you're describing. The baffle went in the same way it came out, and it ends up being twisted downward (or upward toward the camera) to the bottom of the tank. See 5:26 and 8:28. Maybe I'm missing your point, but I think perhaps the camera angle makes it look backwards. I probably should have put the camera level with the tank to show this better. Do you have the same or similar model year? My tank is 4.2 gallons, which would make the theoretical total mileage for my riding about 180 total miles. My light comes on around 160 miles, although I don't usually push it that far. I'll have to take a look at the book and some other videos to see if I've misunderstood what you're saying.
Granted, this was four years ago that I did this, so my memory isn't sharp. But I just went back to look at the original footage to see if there was more recording of that part. If I understand your point, you are thinking that the plastic "cup' on the end is oriented in the wrong direction? But, when I look at how the rubber hose and nipple is oriented on that area when it comes out versus when it goes back in, it is the same direction. I mean, maybe it's a half inch different, but nothing severe. I also looked at the Haynes book on page 3B.4, illustration 3.12a, and it appears to be the same. Is it possible that your year Bonnie is different? And, did your assembly come out the same way you put it back in? I'm not certain I can really answer these questions until I eventually replace my filter for a second time and have a chance to see the assembly in person again. I'll certainly pay more attention next time, though, and report back what I find. In any case, I haven't been experiencing the premature fuel light that you mentioned.
I wish I had watched your video before I changed my spark plugs! I would have avoided a few tank scratches. Your hint for the tank cover wrap is brilliant!
Thanks, very helpful video - just about to do the 20,000 km service on my 2012 T100 bonneville and this and the one on valve clearances are the best available
Dude...you used a Mahle product. They are outstanding. My late father retired from Mahle in Morristown, Tennessee. They make some damn good stuff including their pistons. You found a great buy.
Agreed! I Love Mahle products! Especially oil filters! The nice thing about Mahle products is not only are they good quality, but also sell for cheap price! (How often does that happen!?!)
Thanks! I've actually had mine out as i had an accident and had the tank repaired. The people who repaired and painted my tank put the sender/pump back in it and now i have to take it BACK OUT again to replace the filter and hoses, something I was going to do while it was repaired but it wasnt to be. Anyway, this will help me with the job. again, thanks..
@@tinderboxarts Gotcha! I did it fairly quickly . I will note that I removed the bolt that held the lower metal line in place , then replaced the hoses from top to bottom, made it easy to assemble not having to bend the hoses to get them on.. and I used a nice soft blanket on the tank.. all went well. thanks
Looks like the proper torque, the more bolts or screws, the less torque required. The important thing to remember is, when going back up with it tighten evenly.
good video, do u really have to change the gasket and hoses when u change the fuel filter?also after how many miles should thr fule filter be change? thanks
My maintenance schedule from Triumph says the fuel filter is changed every 12000 miles OR every two years, whichever comes first. The gasket and hoses should be replaced at the same time, and they are not very expensive at all.
thanks for the info, I have a triumph America 2013 since then I always took her to dealer for service every year, since is very expensive I dicided do myself all of it his I'll be my first time. they want to charge me like $220 for this service and my bike has almost 8000 ml and they told me I'll be just oil filter,regular oil not even synthetic change and some wires adjustment so now I'll do it myself ,screw dealers too Mach money
You can save a lot of time and money by doing the work yourself, and you'll get more satisfaction out of it. Most common maintenance items are not that difficult to do as long as you have some basic tools. Almost anything you'd want to do is already covered by somebody on youtube, and if you get yourself a Haynes or other shop manual it will help too.
thanks that's I'm about t do it myself I just got online synthetic oil, filter,air filter ,new brake pads and fluid brake, and watching yr video came t my mind do the fuel filter too which I got it on eBay the same u show in video for $17. if u don't mind send me details link where can I buy the gasket and hoses so I can do the same job u did. thanks for the info. I let u know when I get it done if I get a hose inside my tank like u did LOL
I can't recall where I got the hoses, but it was probably an online retailer who sells OEM parts. The hoses could likely be had at a local auto parts store too. You just need short pieces of common hose. Bikebandit.com has OEM parts if you don't have a local Triumph dealer.
Hey! Great video! I was wondering, what was the cause of you wanting to put in the new fuel pump? Is this just regular maintenance or did you have any indicator lights come on? THANK YOU!
You mean the fuel filter, not the fuel pump, I presume. Well, yes, it is a regular maintenance item. Truthfully I think fuel delivery and storage systems in the US are better than they used to be. Back in the day when you filled up at a gas station you were almost certainly getting some dirt with the fuel. Today the fuel we buy seems to be cleaner. Nonetheless, it's not expensive to replace your fuel filter once in a while. The filter will also catch debris from the bike itself in the event of a problem. A few months back I replaced a fuel filter on my work truck after pulling the tank. A previous owner had apparently replaced the fuel pump after the original went bad. You wouldn't believe the amount of chewed up plastic and metal that filter had caught! If that debris had gone to the injectors it would have been an expensive repair. The same goes for bikes--better to protect the injectors (or carb) from debris no matter where it comes from.
@@tinderboxarts Yes. Excellent! It's maybe the one project I was a little hesitant to do but I've got a little more confidence now. Did you order direct from Triumph or did you use BikeBandit or something like that? Again, thanks for the video.
Jeff Johnson It's been too long for me to remember, but they were common sizes you could find in an automotive parts store. The filter I got on Amazon:www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDJSXQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1and BTW, you can OEM parts at bike bandit now:www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/triumph-street-bike-parts/s/m13c7
Enjoyed the video and subscribed! May I ask what would lead someone to do these replacements? My thruxton is currently facing a jerky throttle in first and second gear. When I twist the throttle it’s as if the fueling is not flowing properly, as a result, I have to rev it harder and balance the clutch at Low gear. Would this be a sign that I need to replace the fuel filter?
What you describe is not related to the fuel filter. You didn't mention what year your Thruxton is or if it is carbureted or fuel injected. The fuel filter is replaced on a schedule shown in your manual, but the basic idea is that it should be replaced before it becomes clogged with debris. If you always fuel up from a clean source the filter may actually never need replacing. But, we don't really know how clean a particular gas station or other fuel source may be, so we replace on a regular schedule just to be sure. When a filter actually gets clogged up it can affect fuel pressure for either a carbureted or fuel injected bike and can result in fuel starvation under heavy load or hard acceleration. Honestly, it's pretty rare for it to get that far, though. Your problem could be several things. If you have a fuel-injected bike you might take a look at the throttle position sensor, which can give the ECU faulty information when it goes bad. If you have a carburetor you may have dirty passageways and need a good cleaning. It could also be ignition related. I'd need more information about the bike model and the symptoms to get more specific than that.
@@tinderboxarts mine is a 2015 thruxton, fuel injected. I bought it off someone fairly recently. usually the jerkiness happens in gear 1 and 2, typically in the 1000-2000rpm range. The feeling i would describe to a layman would be as if the bike is not getting enough fuel, and almost like the bike is "coughing". And as i stated in my comment above, anything higher than 2000+ rpm is fine, so i suspect my problem would be fueling related, or throttle body related. I also installed a booster plug after doing some research on the triumphrat forums but it didn't solve anything :( the bike is also fitted with a Dominator touring exhaust and as far as i know, no ECU tuning was ever done.
Well, first I would eliminate any kind of aftermarket device which attempts to alter the ECU data like your booster plug. More often than not they are the cause of problems rather than solving them. Since the bike is new to you, you don't know if the mapping was changed. You can use Tune ECU to read the map number and see if it is stock or not, or you could go to a dealer and pay them to put a stock map on there. Again, people play with these things without the knowledge they need and can cause more harm than good. You didn't say if the O2 sensors were eliminated, but that's a potential issue as well. Once you know the mapping is stock and the ECU is getting direct data from the sensor, you can do some troubleshooting. You seem to be describing an engine miss or a rough running engine at low RPM. Does this occur if you are parked and run the engine under no load, or does it only occur if there is a load on the engine such as taking off from a stop? That would be a major clue. The throttle position sensor could well be a possibility. When the data it sends to the ECU is bad, the computer gets confused and make a guess as to the proper air/fuel ration and timing. These are simple sensors which can develop physical flat spots in the contacts or get dirty contacts, which results in intermittent data to the ECU. The flat spots often occur at well-used locations, such as where the throttle would be when first taking off. Ignition issues are another likely culprit, including corrosion at terminal locations, worn out spark plugs, or coil problems. When RPMs increase the symptom may go away as the ECU is better able to judge and adjust the timing to overcome, say, a weak secondary winding in a coil. Typically an ignition problem will show more clearly under load, so if the problem is not as apparent with the bike parked and the throttle revved, that's a clue. Fuel problems are not impossible, but less likely based on your description. Typically a bad fuel injector or fuel starvation will get worse at higher RPM, not better.
@@tinderboxarts can’t thank you enough for your advise and insight, will definitely be looking into some of these possibilities with a mechanic. Thanks again man!
Forever! Seriously, parts do wear out, but as long as you can still buy the parts you can still keep the bike running. Or, to look at it a different way, if you just do normal maintenance (oil, filters, minor electrical, bearings, clutch, tires, etc.) then you could easily expect 100K miles or more. These bikes are very simple and very reliable.
Hi, Just wondering if you knew the dimensions of the assembly at all? I want to drop the entire assembly into another style of tank. Even if you have the width of the fuel pump gasket that would be great. Cheers
+martin hodgson I'm sorry, I don't have the dimensions and I'd have to remove my tank to measure it for you. I guess it's possible to do what you have in mind, but the opening in the other tank would have to match the same measurements AND the same contour. Tricky, to be sure.
I can't recall now, but that is stuff you can easily pick up locally at an auto parts store. I usually buy a few feet of each type just to have on hand.
I'm on the island of Maui and have no garage or carport to work on my 2010 Bonneville T100. I'm going to have to hire someone change my fuel filter and a few other things but I have to order the parts first as there are no dealers here. I went on the Triumphmotorcycle.com and could not find the fuel filter. Where did you order your parts from? My local auto part is Napa and they are clueless about Triumphs. I could even find what oil filter I need and my owner's manual doesn't give me the part #. Any advice?
Does Amazon cover your area? They carry some of the parts. The fuel filter is here: amzn.to/32LaSc7 . The oil filter is here: amzn.to/3nzSsDv . Other oil filter options include the K&N 204 or the Mobil 1 M1-108. The NAPA 1358 oil filter MAY work, but I've not confirmed that.
@@tinderboxarts Hey I actually found it, haha. Hoses are listed as T2401270 and T3620395 , did you ever have luck finding generic non OEM alternatives?
Paul Hill No, it was fine and actually I had more miles to go before the factory recommendation. However, I had the time and the energy available and the cost of the parts was minimal. I may be guilty of over-maintaining my baby from time to time!
Another great instructional video, thanks! Used your tip and got a Mahle filter, saved a few bucks. The factory gasket on my ‘12 had three ribs, so maybe the change from two was in the few years between our bikes. Mine looked perfect at 12k so I went ahead and reused it. Tank sat full for two weeks without leaking while I waited for valve shims so I’ll save the new gasket for the next change. Watching you wrestle the assembly in and out of the tank prepped me to not panic when it didn’t pull out easily. Thanks!
Really? I maintain my vehicles so I can enjoy them forever. My main car is a 30 year old Jeep. My work truck is a 26 year old Chevy. I finally gave up on my wife's 16 year old Yukon because it was too big for us anymore, but it had 220K miles. I doubt I'll ever sell my Bonneville.
Thanks for the video. This was very helpful when I replaced my fuel filter last year, but I noticed I was getting less mileage per tank after doing so. I discovered you reassembled the fuel pump baffle (the big parts filter) upside down. See 5:25 when you pull out the fuel pump and 6:17 while it's sitting on the towel, vs 8:25 when you drop it back into the tank. With the tank oriented rightside up, the way you've assembled this also has the baffle pointing UP, hence not drawing fuel from the lowest point in the tank. Easy mistake to make, and since I followed your video only referencing 8:25 when dropping it back in, I did the same thing. I can confirm that this shortened my mileage per tank by approximately 20-30 miles, once running out of gas on route 78. I took everything apart again, rotated the baffle, and reassembled, and now back to normal.
You know, I rewatched this a few times, but I'm not seeing what you're describing. The baffle went in the same way it came out, and it ends up being twisted downward (or upward toward the camera) to the bottom of the tank. See 5:26 and 8:28. Maybe I'm missing your point, but I think perhaps the camera angle makes it look backwards. I probably should have put the camera level with the tank to show this better. Do you have the same or similar model year? My tank is 4.2 gallons, which would make the theoretical total mileage for my riding about 180 total miles. My light comes on around 160 miles, although I don't usually push it that far. I'll have to take a look at the book and some other videos to see if I've misunderstood what you're saying.
Go to 8:24 and use the . key go advance frame by frame. The baffle is 100% going in upside down. ibb.co/dp5W1o
Granted, this was four years ago that I did this, so my memory isn't sharp. But I just went back to look at the original footage to see if there was more recording of that part. If I understand your point, you are thinking that the plastic "cup' on the end is oriented in the wrong direction? But, when I look at how the rubber hose and nipple is oriented on that area when it comes out versus when it goes back in, it is the same direction. I mean, maybe it's a half inch different, but nothing severe. I also looked at the Haynes book on page 3B.4, illustration 3.12a, and it appears to be the same. Is it possible that your year Bonnie is different? And, did your assembly come out the same way you put it back in? I'm not certain I can really answer these questions until I eventually replace my filter for a second time and have a chance to see the assembly in person again. I'll certainly pay more attention next time, though, and report back what I find. In any case, I haven't been experiencing the premature fuel light that you mentioned.
I wish I had watched your video before I changed my spark plugs! I would have avoided a few tank scratches. Your hint for the tank cover wrap is brilliant!
Thanks, very helpful video - just about to do the 20,000 km service on my 2012 T100 bonneville and this and the one on valve clearances are the best available
Great video! Clear, concise and super useful.
Dude...you used a Mahle product. They are outstanding. My late father retired from Mahle in Morristown, Tennessee. They make some damn good stuff including their pistons. You found a great buy.
Very cool. I think Mahle makes some products for the OEMs which is just rebranded, too.
Agreed! I Love Mahle products! Especially oil filters! The nice thing about Mahle products is not only are they good quality, but also sell for cheap price! (How often does that happen!?!)
Thanks for this. Great reference for before doing my fuel filter.
Good luck!
Thanks! I've actually had mine out as i had an accident and had the tank repaired. The people who repaired and painted my tank put the sender/pump back in it and now i have to take it BACK OUT again to replace the filter and hoses, something I was going to do while it was repaired but it wasnt to be. Anyway, this will help me with the job. again, thanks..
It's not too bad once you have the tank off the bike. Just don't scratch the new paint job!
@@tinderboxarts Gotcha! I did it fairly quickly . I will note that I removed the bolt that held the lower metal line in place , then replaced the hoses from top to bottom, made it easy to assemble not having to bend the hoses to get them on..
and I used a nice soft blanket on the tank.. all went well. thanks
Looks like the proper torque, the more bolts or screws, the less torque required. The important thing to remember is, when going back up with it tighten evenly.
good video, do u really have to change the gasket and hoses when u change the fuel filter?also after how many miles should thr fule filter be change? thanks
My maintenance schedule from Triumph says the fuel filter is changed every 12000 miles OR every two years, whichever comes first. The gasket and hoses should be replaced at the same time, and they are not very expensive at all.
thanks for the info, I have a triumph America 2013 since then I always took her to dealer for service every year, since is very expensive I dicided do myself all of it his I'll be my first time. they want to charge me like $220 for this service and my bike has almost 8000 ml and they told me I'll be just oil filter,regular oil not even synthetic change and some wires adjustment so now I'll do it myself ,screw dealers too Mach money
You can save a lot of time and money by doing the work yourself, and you'll get more satisfaction out of it. Most common maintenance items are not that difficult to do as long as you have some basic tools. Almost anything you'd want to do is already covered by somebody on youtube, and if you get yourself a Haynes or other shop manual it will help too.
thanks that's I'm about t do it myself I just got online synthetic oil, filter,air filter ,new brake pads and fluid brake, and watching yr video came t my mind do the fuel filter too which I got it on eBay the same u show in video for $17. if u don't mind send me details link where can I buy the gasket and hoses so I can do the same job u did. thanks for the info. I let u know when I get it done if I get a hose inside my tank like u did LOL
I can't recall where I got the hoses, but it was probably an online retailer who sells OEM parts. The hoses could likely be had at a local auto parts store too. You just need short pieces of common hose. Bikebandit.com has OEM parts if you don't have a local Triumph dealer.
Hey! Great video! I was wondering, what was the cause of you wanting to put in the new fuel pump? Is this just regular maintenance or did you have any indicator lights come on? THANK YOU!
You mean the fuel filter, not the fuel pump, I presume. Well, yes, it is a regular maintenance item. Truthfully I think fuel delivery and storage systems in the US are better than they used to be. Back in the day when you filled up at a gas station you were almost certainly getting some dirt with the fuel. Today the fuel we buy seems to be cleaner. Nonetheless, it's not expensive to replace your fuel filter once in a while. The filter will also catch debris from the bike itself in the event of a problem. A few months back I replaced a fuel filter on my work truck after pulling the tank. A previous owner had apparently replaced the fuel pump after the original went bad. You wouldn't believe the amount of chewed up plastic and metal that filter had caught! If that debris had gone to the injectors it would have been an expensive repair. The same goes for bikes--better to protect the injectors (or carb) from debris no matter where it comes from.
@@tinderboxarts Yes. Excellent! It's maybe the one project I was a little hesitant to do but I've got a little more confidence now. Did you order direct from Triumph or did you use BikeBandit or something like that? Again, thanks for the video.
Looks like I got that one on Amazon-- amzn.to/2Pks3dD But, your bike may be different.
What were the sizes on those hoses that you replaced? You mentioned you could have gotten them elsewhere?Also, where did you order your filter from?
Jeff Johnson It's been too long for me to remember, but they were common sizes you could find in an automotive parts store. The filter I got on Amazon:www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDJSXQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1and BTW, you can OEM parts at bike bandit now:www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/triumph-street-bike-parts/s/m13c7
tinderboxarts Awesome. Thanks. I've been needing to do this for quite a while but wasn't sure where to start. Thanks again.
Make sure the new hoses are submersible fuel line. There is a Major difference!
Enjoyed the video and subscribed! May I ask what would lead someone to do these replacements? My thruxton is currently facing a jerky throttle in first and second gear. When I twist the throttle it’s as if the fueling is not flowing properly, as a result, I have to rev it harder and balance the clutch at Low gear. Would this be a sign that I need to replace the fuel filter?
What you describe is not related to the fuel filter. You didn't mention what year your Thruxton is or if it is carbureted or fuel injected. The fuel filter is replaced on a schedule shown in your manual, but the basic idea is that it should be replaced before it becomes clogged with debris. If you always fuel up from a clean source the filter may actually never need replacing. But, we don't really know how clean a particular gas station or other fuel source may be, so we replace on a regular schedule just to be sure. When a filter actually gets clogged up it can affect fuel pressure for either a carbureted or fuel injected bike and can result in fuel starvation under heavy load or hard acceleration. Honestly, it's pretty rare for it to get that far, though.
Your problem could be several things. If you have a fuel-injected bike you might take a look at the throttle position sensor, which can give the ECU faulty information when it goes bad. If you have a carburetor you may have dirty passageways and need a good cleaning. It could also be ignition related. I'd need more information about the bike model and the symptoms to get more specific than that.
@@tinderboxarts mine is a 2015 thruxton, fuel injected. I bought it off someone fairly recently.
usually the jerkiness happens in gear 1 and 2, typically in the 1000-2000rpm range. The feeling i would describe to a layman would be as if the bike is not getting enough fuel, and almost like the bike is "coughing". And as i stated in my comment above, anything higher than 2000+ rpm is fine, so i suspect my problem would be fueling related, or throttle body related. I also installed a booster plug after doing some research on the triumphrat forums but it didn't solve anything :(
the bike is also fitted with a Dominator touring exhaust and as far as i know, no ECU tuning was ever done.
Well, first I would eliminate any kind of aftermarket device which attempts to alter the ECU data like your booster plug. More often than not they are the cause of problems rather than solving them. Since the bike is new to you, you don't know if the mapping was changed. You can use Tune ECU to read the map number and see if it is stock or not, or you could go to a dealer and pay them to put a stock map on there. Again, people play with these things without the knowledge they need and can cause more harm than good. You didn't say if the O2 sensors were eliminated, but that's a potential issue as well.
Once you know the mapping is stock and the ECU is getting direct data from the sensor, you can do some troubleshooting. You seem to be describing an engine miss or a rough running engine at low RPM. Does this occur if you are parked and run the engine under no load, or does it only occur if there is a load on the engine such as taking off from a stop? That would be a major clue. The throttle position sensor could well be a possibility. When the data it sends to the ECU is bad, the computer gets confused and make a guess as to the proper air/fuel ration and timing. These are simple sensors which can develop physical flat spots in the contacts or get dirty contacts, which results in intermittent data to the ECU. The flat spots often occur at well-used locations, such as where the throttle would be when first taking off.
Ignition issues are another likely culprit, including corrosion at terminal locations, worn out spark plugs, or coil problems. When RPMs increase the symptom may go away as the ECU is better able to judge and adjust the timing to overcome, say, a weak secondary winding in a coil. Typically an ignition problem will show more clearly under load, so if the problem is not as apparent with the bike parked and the throttle revved, that's a clue. Fuel problems are not impossible, but less likely based on your description. Typically a bad fuel injector or fuel starvation will get worse at higher RPM, not better.
@@tinderboxarts can’t thank you enough for your advise and insight, will definitely be looking into some of these possibilities with a mechanic. Thanks again man!
I'd love to hear back what you find!
Hey ifu loose the metal pary that goes inside the bafle. The one that looks like a scrub dishes brittle. Wouldnt affect the bike?
That's a kind of coarse pre-filter. It probably wouldn't affect much unless you are filling with some REALLY dirty fuel.
With proper maintenance how long will my Bonnie SE 2010 last?
Forever! Seriously, parts do wear out, but as long as you can still buy the parts you can still keep the bike running. Or, to look at it a different way, if you just do normal maintenance (oil, filters, minor electrical, bearings, clutch, tires, etc.) then you could easily expect 100K miles or more. These bikes are very simple and very reliable.
Hi, Just wondering if you knew the dimensions of the assembly at all? I want to drop the entire assembly into another style of tank. Even if you have the width of the fuel pump gasket that would be great. Cheers
+martin hodgson I'm sorry, I don't have the dimensions and I'd have to remove my tank to measure it for you. I guess it's possible to do what you have in mind, but the opening in the other tank would have to match the same measurements AND the same contour. Tricky, to be sure.
is all the fuel tubing 5/16"?? inside & outside tank
I can't recall now, but that is stuff you can easily pick up locally at an auto parts store. I usually buy a few feet of each type just to have on hand.
Very useful and clear vid
I'm on the island of Maui and have no garage or carport to work on my 2010 Bonneville T100. I'm going to have to hire someone change my fuel filter and a few other things but I have to order the parts first as there are no dealers here. I went on the Triumphmotorcycle.com and could not find the fuel filter. Where did you order your parts from? My local auto part is Napa and they are clueless about Triumphs. I could even find what oil filter I need and my owner's manual doesn't give me the part #. Any advice?
Does Amazon cover your area? They carry some of the parts. The fuel filter is here: amzn.to/32LaSc7 . The oil filter is here: amzn.to/3nzSsDv . Other oil filter options include the K&N 204 or the Mobil 1 M1-108. The NAPA 1358 oil filter MAY work, but I've not confirmed that.
Try any of the west coast mainland dealers, Seattle, Portland etc. Shipping may be pretty steep, but that's life in Hawaii.
Excellent vdeo! Very well explained.
What are the part numbers for the gasket and hoses?
I don't have that info, brother, but if you get on bikebandit.com or one of the other sites with OEM parts diagrams you'll be able to look it up.
@@tinderboxarts Hey I actually found it, haha. Hoses are listed as T2401270
and T3620395
, did you ever have luck finding generic non OEM alternatives?
Thanks John !
Were you having any fuel problems before replacing the filter?
Paul Hill No, it was fine and actually I had more miles to go before the factory recommendation. However, I had the time and the energy available and the cost of the parts was minimal. I may be guilty of over-maintaining my baby from time to time!
Another great instructional video, thanks! Used your tip and got a Mahle filter, saved a few bucks.
The factory gasket on my ‘12 had three ribs, so maybe the change from two was in the few years between our bikes. Mine looked perfect at 12k so I went ahead and reused it. Tank sat full for two weeks without leaking while I waited for valve shims so I’ll save the new gasket for the next change.
Watching you wrestle the assembly in and out of the tank prepped me to not panic when it didn’t pull out easily. Thanks!
Thanks very much John !
very helpful video. 🖒
I smell gas...
Sounds like way too much work on a 10 year old bike
Really? I maintain my vehicles so I can enjoy them forever. My main car is a 30 year old Jeep. My work truck is a 26 year old Chevy. I finally gave up on my wife's 16 year old Yukon because it was too big for us anymore, but it had 220K miles. I doubt I'll ever sell my Bonneville.