Hi Jan, Thanks for the review of this lathe. I also got the Emco Maximat Compact 3100 (same as you but no gearbox). @3:15 when you mention “2 here at the front” I got surprised, because those 2 bolts, I remove them to bolt my Emco steady rest there. You’re sure it’s for oiling?
Thnks to you too! Of course you are entirely right! Stupid of me not thinking that this is the running steady mount. The screws has the same design as the one in front labelled OEL, so I was fooled.. haha. That being admitted, these will also serve as oil filler holes although it is not so difficult oiling the bed vs. the somewhat hard to get at inner apron details. Thnks for pointing out anyway!
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 no issue :) also I see you have a fixed steady rest but did not see your running steady rest. If you'd like to build one, I could measure mine and make you a drawing. The iece is simple enough ! I don't have a steady rest, but I just do small hobby tasks (I work in Information Technology, the lathe is for my saturdays..)
@@Laurent.pierrard Thank you for the offer. I will however search first to try to find one for sale. But it is a simple affair, so I also have a few designs in mind :)
@@sufianmhsn1614 the price will be what you find it for sale.. they are not made anymore, not since about 60 years ago. If you find one for sale, you will know the price as it depends entirely on the seller. A good lathe for a hobbyist goes from 1000€ to 3000€ depending on the size and accessories sold with it. that's for used ones like this one.
@@sufianmhsn1614 thanks, same to you. I am afraid that you have not understood what I was replying. It's not for sale until you find one for sale, which i wish you luck finding a gearbox for this antique. If you must cut threads, you might be better off finding another lathe just for the threads. This one will do a very clean work for anything else. I wish, as written a year ago, that I had a gearbox. Instead I made an ancillary with manual gear changes. I wish also that I had the milling attachment, but mine was 'bare'.
Great Video. I just got an old maximat7 but can't find any manuals online. the lathe comes with a set of gears but I'm not sure how to use it. Can you help?
Thanks! There are manuals available. If you send me your email I can upload to you (they're in German). Or, enlist at www.maskinisten.se and find them all there.
Very informative content, watched all of the "emco series". Maybe you know where to get the manual for this lathe? I have one almost identical lathe ("without" the gearbox) and I need to get some informations for the headstock and gear ratios for cutting threads. (I have no table).
Lovely restoration! Your motor looks like it is wired into the VFD via the switch. Is this the case? I never realised the gearbox had a neutral setting so I could use the hand wheel on the end of the lead screw. I did wonder what the extra handle was for! Thanks!
Hello we spoke a year ago. I lost m y pc with all my documents and my back up failed. it was a huge loss. In the loss I also lost the manual you sent me. If you still have this I would be forever greatful.
Yes, flat ways are probably cheaper to regrind than V-ways (until now, I haven't asked for a quote for the latter). If you are good at it and have the patience and tools, you might consider hand-scraping the ways also.. there is no difference in the accuracy obtained.. quite possibly if the master plate that you use as master and in a climate controlled environment you could get even better flatness with scraping.. but this becomes academic. Given you have a plate that is within 5/1000 and you can mimic this on the tested surface, I'd say that for a hobby lathe you are well off.
Hi Jan! I see you have quite a few videos on the Emco Maximat Standard... very nice.. Do you know where can I find parts for this lathe? I am interested in a gear box and gears :)
Hello, thanks for the nice comment. I am sorry to say that I do not know where you can source parts for this. Googling this I do however find that RDG Tools has an EMCO section: www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/EMCO_LATHE_ACCESSORIES.html Niels Machines another place: www.nielsmachines.com/en/merken/emco/
Thanks. It is a nice lathe. And has been an interesting "detour" from working with the Myfords, and as this is more or less in parallel it has given me the chance to compare all details
top and sides of the bed plus the top of the cross-slide table.. not sure about the exact price because part of the deal was some trade in machinery/accessory, but it will probable be some 4-500 Euro. Important to remember here is that merely grinding the bed won't solve the problem if the bed is worn, and this is only a fraction of the "cost". Most likely the rest of the lathe is also worn, eg. the mating surface on the saddle (to the bed), possibly twice as much as the bed. I did this work myself, hence it was "only" the time taken (and some smaller material cost) for the scraping of the bed undersides, the saddle to the bed, the cross-slide to the saddle, the top-slide to the table and the tailstock base to the bed. The mentioned procedures easily took between 60-80 hours, maybe even 100 (I didn't count..), which if paid.. well, I doubt you would find anyone professional that would work for less than say 40-50 Euro an hour up here, so therefore the cost of grinding the bed is not the whole story.. and also therefore it is absolutely well worth the cost to take a scraping class (and much fun as well as the start of learning a trade and adding this to your skills)
Hello there, i am interested to purchase a lathe like this. I have a couple of questions. 1st. If worth it? 2nd. How many mm is the tool holder? For example 12x12, 14x14? Thank you in advance. PS. You have done a great job mate.
Thnks for the comments. The 4-way tool holder is for max 12mm tools, but as you saw in the video I showed a larger cut-off tool , I believe with a 16mm high holder, directly clamped to the top slide. You may also take off the top-slide and use a larger block, eg. a QTCP directly on the cross-feed table, which will also improve rigidity. I have done this on the Myfords, espcially useful in combination with the ELS in which case I don't need any angle setting as this is taken care of by the stepper motor control. The Maximat is a nice lathe and will demand a high price if in good shape. Mine came at at about 600 Euro, but then with the bed regrind, parts scraping and VFD the cost easily rose around 2-3 times, which is probably what you need to pay if the lathe you are looking at is in similar condition
well done Jan !!...i think ...i should upload a video of my emco maximat standard lathe restoration ...as you did !!..(you know that mine comes with the milling head mounted from factory ..and maybe is a good idea for those who are interested ) ...anyway !!...you have done a very good job there !! congrats ! By the way ...i need to get the 2 rests... the steady one and the moving one ...the original ..or even a copy ones from casting ..just in case someone could help !!!)
Thanks for the comments! And yes, pls. document and upload the process of restoration of your machine.. for the benefit of all that has this type and certainly are interested in seeing videos and pictures. Good luck! As for the steadies, maybe some can source these, or as was suggested could make drawings. PS! I cannot see your other message about the use of the lathe spindle/headstock in milling configuration.. just some of it. Can you post again pls?
I really love the work you did on the lathe, it looks immaculate. I watched all the videos, thank you very much for the effort you put in! I just bought my first lathe - it's the maximat standard without the gearbox. It's roughly in same shape as yours when you got it. I want to get it going before my last semester of college starts. I got the german manual, but my german skills are lacking to understand the techical language. In the lubrication section it mentions that you use grease to lubricate the tailstock? I was wondering, what (or which grease) did you use to lubricate it? And which oil did you use to lubricate the ways? Thank you very much and keep up the good work! I am learning a lot from your videos! :D
Thank you very much for the nice comments! You can use oil on the tailstock and way surfaces. I have a specific way oil that I have a lot of that I use, but I would recommend ISO68 or 46 for the ways and possibly 32 on the tailstock. If the manual says grease I guess you can use this, but I still would use just oil
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 You deserve all the praise for the work you do, because it's really up to standard. Thank you for your reply, it really helps me a lot! 🙂 I read a lot on the subject but in this case, the internet and forums are littered with a lot of different, sometimes contradictory, information. People are using everything: from WD40 to sowing machine oil to car oils 😅 I am prepared to start learning German as a LAST ditch effort, but is there an English manual to be found for this machine?
@@medicin1o1 Thanks again! I agree, there is a lot of information available and it can be hard to filter away the not so good info. Anyway, I try to follow the basics and have a simple approach. When it comes to lubrication of a machine tool, there is probably very few cases where you would want/need to use grease. Most have oil nipples that may look like grease nipples, but should not be greased as this would clog up the lubrication system. Of course, some bearings are greased (lubed for life and sealed), but as I understand and read there are also alternatives between grease and oil, for example decided by practicality. Eg. choosing grease might be very nice in the sense that you may avoid any "maintenance" alltogether but will decrease the run-interval some, usually specified in the makers literature.
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Thank you! I will clean everything up from old grease and try lubing it with OIL that you recommended. And I will google-translate the German manual, that way I have a fighting chance 😁 Are there any upgrades that you recommended for the lathe, before starting to use it?
@@medicin1o1 Sounds good. Oil it liberally and it will last longer. Tja..? I would just start using it to get a feel for how it performs. Have you tightened and checked the gibs etc.?
Ok. Jag har en likadan maximat och tänker koppla via en 1-3 frekvensomriktare. Fråga: har du någon ritning hur den kopplas in? Man måste väl bygla om motorn.
Sure, but I have no means to print such gears. PS! Not sure if there are any forums for this lathe specifically, but I suggest you enlist at wee.zerspanungsbude.net in which forum there are discussions on these lathes
@Jan Sverre Haugjord I have a guy that will print the gears. Did u have just 3 nylon gears and 2 the same size one a bit larger. 2 are 1.5 inch outer diameter, and the big is about 2. The big one is on the lever on top of the 2nd 2. I have not yet found the location, but I've had all of 20 mins to look it over. I wish I could find a manual
Hi Jan,
Thanks for the review of this lathe. I also got the Emco Maximat Compact 3100 (same as you but no gearbox).
@3:15 when you mention “2 here at the front” I got surprised, because those 2 bolts, I remove them to bolt my Emco steady rest there. You’re sure it’s for oiling?
Thnks to you too! Of course you are entirely right! Stupid of me not thinking that this is the running steady mount. The screws has the same design as the one in front labelled OEL, so I was fooled.. haha. That being admitted, these will also serve as oil filler holes although it is not so difficult oiling the bed vs. the somewhat hard to get at inner apron details. Thnks for pointing out anyway!
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 no issue :) also I see you have a fixed steady rest but did not see your running steady rest. If you'd like to build one, I could measure mine and make you a drawing. The iece is simple enough ! I don't have a steady rest, but I just do small hobby tasks (I work in Information Technology, the lathe is for my saturdays..)
@@Laurent.pierrard Thank you for the offer. I will however search first to try to find one for sale. But it is a simple affair, so I also have a few designs in mind :)
@@sufianmhsn1614 the price will be what you find it for sale.. they are not made anymore, not since about 60 years ago. If you find one for sale, you will know the price as it depends entirely on the seller. A good lathe for a hobbyist goes from 1000€ to 3000€ depending on the size and accessories sold with it. that's for used ones like this one.
@@sufianmhsn1614 thanks, same to you.
I am afraid that you have not understood what I was replying.
It's not for sale until you find one for sale, which i wish you luck finding a gearbox for this antique.
If you must cut threads, you might be better off finding another lathe just for the threads. This one will do a very clean work for anything else.
I wish, as written a year ago, that I had a gearbox. Instead I made an ancillary with manual gear changes.
I wish also that I had the milling attachment, but mine was 'bare'.
May I ask what machine is in the background to the right of the orange toolbox at 0:27? Toolroom lathe?
It is this one ruclips.net/video/59kpSLbAdso/видео.html
Great Video. I just got an old maximat7 but can't find any manuals online. the lathe comes with a set of gears but I'm not sure how to use it. Can you help?
Thanks! There are manuals available. If you send me your email I can upload to you (they're in German). Or, enlist at www.maskinisten.se and find them all there.
Hi that's a very good lathe. I would like to see more of the Chuck locking ring and how it works. Thanks for the posting
Have you seen from 5 min to 5 min. 20sec. out in the video? :)
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 yes it seems like the backplate is slit to allow the coller to clamp in on the spindle thread. Is that right
@@MsAdam108 Exactly! Since EMCO has chosen this design I assume it doesn't weaken the threaded part or leads to misalignments
Very informative content, watched all of the "emco series". Maybe you know where to get the manual for this lathe? I have one almost identical lathe ("without" the gearbox) and I need to get some informations for the headstock and gear ratios for cutting threads. (I have no table).
Thnks. Send me your email, then I can forward my copies to you
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 great! You can send on enkopec@gmail.com
Thank you very much!
@@MrDrek44 You're welcome.. check your email :)
Lovely restoration! Your motor looks like it is wired into the VFD via the switch. Is this the case?
I never realised the gearbox had a neutral setting so I could use the hand wheel on the end of the lead screw. I did wonder what the extra handle was for! Thanks!
You're welcome. Nice that my efforts is of some help
Hello we spoke a year ago. I lost m y pc with all my documents and my back up failed. it was a huge loss. In the loss I also lost the manual you sent me. If you still have this I would be forever greatful.
@@GottaKnowJoeHobbies Which manual was that, ie. forvwhich machine? Can you give me your emailor alternatively Messenger contact ?
Flat bed ways, interesting. That should be much cheaper to regrind that a newer maximat.
Yes, flat ways are probably cheaper to regrind than V-ways (until now, I haven't asked for a quote for the latter). If you are good at it and have the patience and tools, you might consider hand-scraping the ways also.. there is no difference in the accuracy obtained.. quite possibly if the master plate that you use as master and in a climate controlled environment you could get even better flatness with scraping.. but this becomes academic. Given you have a plate that is within 5/1000 and you can mimic this on the tested surface, I'd say that for a hobby lathe you are well off.
Hi Jan! I see you have quite a few videos on the Emco Maximat Standard... very nice..
Do you know where can I find parts for this lathe? I am interested in a gear box and gears :)
Hello, thanks for the nice comment. I am sorry to say that I do not know where you can source parts for this. Googling this I do however find that RDG Tools has an EMCO section: www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/EMCO_LATHE_ACCESSORIES.html
Niels Machines another place:
www.nielsmachines.com/en/merken/emco/
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Thank you very much Jan for your input!
@@BluClaud You're welcome. Good luck hunting for parts!
That is a good looking machine. Any model builder would be lucky to have one.
Thanks. It is a nice lathe. And has been an interesting "detour" from working with the Myfords, and as this is more or less in parallel it has given me the chance to compare all details
how much did you paid for re-grounding bed ways? only the top surface was re-grounded ?
top and sides of the bed plus the top of the cross-slide table.. not sure about the exact price because part of the deal was some trade in machinery/accessory, but it will probable be some 4-500 Euro. Important to remember here is that merely grinding the bed won't solve the problem if the bed is worn, and this is only a fraction of the "cost". Most likely the rest of the lathe is also worn, eg. the mating surface on the saddle (to the bed), possibly twice as much as the bed. I did this work myself, hence it was "only" the time taken (and some smaller material cost) for the scraping of the bed undersides, the saddle to the bed, the cross-slide to the saddle, the top-slide to the table and the tailstock base to the bed. The mentioned procedures easily took between 60-80 hours, maybe even 100 (I didn't count..), which if paid.. well, I doubt you would find anyone professional that would work for less than say 40-50 Euro an hour up here, so therefore the cost of grinding the bed is not the whole story.. and also therefore it is absolutely well worth the cost to take a scraping class (and much fun as well as the start of learning a trade and adding this to your skills)
lovely lathe
Hello there, i am interested to purchase a lathe like this. I have a couple of questions.
1st. If worth it?
2nd. How many mm is the tool holder? For example 12x12, 14x14?
Thank you in advance.
PS. You have done a great job mate.
Thnks for the comments. The 4-way tool holder is for max 12mm tools, but as you saw in the video I showed a larger cut-off tool , I believe with a 16mm high holder, directly clamped to the top slide. You may also take off the top-slide and use a larger block, eg. a QTCP directly on the cross-feed table, which will also improve rigidity. I have done this on the Myfords, espcially useful in combination with the ELS in which case I don't need any angle setting as this is taken care of by the stepper motor control.
The Maximat is a nice lathe and will demand a high price if in good shape. Mine came at at about 600 Euro, but then with the bed regrind, parts scraping and VFD the cost easily rose around 2-3 times, which is probably what you need to pay if the lathe you are looking at is in similar condition
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 i really appreciate your quick reply. It was delightful. Have a great day. Greetings from Greece.
Stelios Back to Thnks the same
well done Jan !!...i think ...i should upload a video of my emco maximat standard lathe restoration ...as you did !!..(you know that mine comes with the milling head mounted from factory ..and maybe is a good idea for those who are interested ) ...anyway !!...you have done a very good job there !! congrats !
By the way ...i need to get the 2 rests... the steady one and the moving one ...the original ..or even a copy ones from casting ..just in case someone could help !!!)
Thanks for the comments! And yes, pls. document and upload the process of restoration of your machine.. for the benefit of all that has this type and certainly are interested in seeing videos and pictures. Good luck!
As for the steadies, maybe some can source these, or as was suggested could make drawings.
PS! I cannot see your other message about the use of the lathe spindle/headstock in milling configuration.. just some of it. Can you post again pls?
I learned a lot watching this! Thanks!
You're welcome. That is nice to hear!
I really love the work you did on the lathe, it looks immaculate. I watched all the videos, thank you very much for the effort you put in!
I just bought my first lathe - it's the maximat standard without the gearbox. It's roughly in same shape as yours when you got it. I want to get it going before my last semester of college starts.
I got the german manual, but my german skills are lacking to understand the techical language. In the lubrication section it mentions that you use grease to lubricate the tailstock? I was wondering, what (or which grease) did you use to lubricate it? And which oil did you use to lubricate the ways?
Thank you very much and keep up the good work! I am learning a lot from your videos! :D
Thank you very much for the nice comments!
You can use oil on the tailstock and way surfaces. I have a specific way oil that I have a lot of that I use, but I would recommend ISO68 or 46 for the ways and possibly 32 on the tailstock. If the manual says grease I guess you can use this, but I still would use just oil
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 You deserve all the praise for the work you do, because it's really up to standard. Thank you for your reply, it really helps me a lot! 🙂
I read a lot on the subject but in this case, the internet and forums are littered with a lot of different, sometimes contradictory, information. People are using everything: from WD40 to sowing machine oil to car oils 😅
I am prepared to start learning German as a LAST ditch effort, but is there an English manual to be found for this machine?
@@medicin1o1 Thanks again! I agree, there is a lot of information available and it can be hard to filter away the not so good info. Anyway, I try to follow the basics and have a simple approach. When it comes to lubrication of a machine tool, there is probably very few cases where you would want/need to use grease. Most have oil nipples that may look like grease nipples, but should not be greased as this would clog up the lubrication system. Of course, some bearings are greased (lubed for life and sealed), but as I understand and read there are also alternatives between grease and oil, for example decided by practicality. Eg. choosing grease might be very nice in the sense that you may avoid any "maintenance" alltogether but will decrease the run-interval some, usually specified in the makers literature.
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Thank you! I will clean everything up from old grease and try lubing it with OIL that you recommended.
And I will google-translate the German manual, that way I have a fighting chance 😁
Are there any upgrades that you recommended for the lathe, before starting to use it?
@@medicin1o1 Sounds good. Oil it liberally and it will last longer. Tja..? I would just start using it to get a feel for how it performs. Have you tightened and checked the gibs etc.?
Hei Jan,
Nice review :)
You use VFD for an old motor which is rated for 50/60 Hz. Can this motor handle f.ex.100 Hz ?
Yes, sure.. most can.. and more than that also.
Är det en 3-3 fas frekvensomriktare du använt till Maximat standard ell är det en 1-3 fas?
1-3 fas
Ok. Jag har en likadan maximat och tänker koppla via en 1-3 frekvensomriktare. Fråga: har du någon ritning hur den kopplas in? Man måste väl bygla om motorn.
@@solo-uke har du en email jeg kan sende til?
@@solo-uke du må koble motor som trekant (delta) snl.no/asynkronmotor
Mulig det står hvordan dette er på baksiden av motorens koblingspanelcover
I just bought this lathe would love to chat
I don't have this lathe anymore, but just ask.. at least I know some about the restoration part
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Can I sen som pics to you some how for suggestions on how to handle? I have 3 nylon gears I need to get printed
Sure, but I have no means to print such gears. PS! Not sure if there are any forums for this lathe specifically, but I suggest you enlist at wee.zerspanungsbude.net in which forum there are discussions on these lathes
use my jshaugjord gmail account
@Jan Sverre Haugjord I have a guy that will print the gears. Did u have just 3 nylon gears and 2 the same size one a bit larger. 2 are 1.5 inch outer diameter, and the big is about 2. The big one is on the lever on top of the 2nd 2. I have not yet found the location, but I've had all of 20 mins to look it over. I wish I could find a manual
Excellent. Well done.
Thnks! Troubling with the bellmouth chuck now :) .. attempting a regrind