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@@masterpiecesinminiature8299 Tja? Depends on the condition of the bearings, I guess. If the lathe has seen a lot of hours use.. and/or abuse, then I would change. However, they might be costly?

@jansverrehaugjord9934 Thanks for the FeedbackJan

Hello there, Do you have the same version as I did? Maybe the headstock design is a bit different. I don't remember much of this anymore.. looking at my own video. Can you video the affair so that others can also join in for discussion and possible help you?

@jansverrehaugjord9934 Hi Jan, Thanks for your quick reply. I do hope to compile a video and put it on my "Masterpieces In miniature" RUclips channelso have several clips of my struggle but would not know how to upload individually. I could ask my Grandson. I have spoken to Tony at the Lathes store but he has not come across this set up and says the Raglan 5" is a rare machine. I will try to atach a photo of the bearing housing which I have loosened off but can not pull free of the lathe. It has a oiler hole in it and was secured with two bolt's one set in a tapped hole and the other free floating somehow Can not atach photo atthe moment Cheers. Andy G

@ hello again, I am piling through the videoes and pictures I made/took when I had the lateh and although I have posted a couple of videos about the motor and expanding pulley system, these doesn't show clearly the assemble part inside of the headstock. I was lucky that someone had replaced teh belt there so didn't have to pay attention to this. I cannot find the instruction manual (probably went wit hthe lathe when it was sold), but I don't recall that there was a diagram/exploded view or similar description of this neither. I am sorry I am of less help to you than desired, but hope and am sure you will find out. I see that you have a good attention to detail and an impressive YT channel! and the same China lathe-mill-drill that I have :)

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Hi again Jan, Thanks again for your reply and for looking through your video's for something that might help. I have the book for the lathe but even the parts list does not show this bearing component that is causing my current issue. With the part removed I think the pulley would swivel somewhat giving greater space for the belt to pass through between the pulley and headstock casting. Not knowing that there was a bearing or shaft there to start with, I have drilled /chiseled and ground some of the casting away to get the belt through. Thanks for watching some of my videos and your feedback. The Chinese lathe was my friends "late " father who passed away. I think it will only really be any good for facing parting and parallel turning. Cheers

Hi again Jan, I think I am going to have to remove the main spindle "as you did" to see what is going on inside the headstock. Will I be able to remove the spindle with a chuck attached and am I to expect "traumas" or it it relatively straight forward. Thanks

You're welcome! Good luck!

The motor drive belt is a Z section 810mm long, while the headstock belt is an A section at 660mm length. At least these are the factory specs although you can probably vary at least the motor belt according to slightly different pulley sizes

@ Do you happen to know the dimensions of the spindle shaft bearings?

@@giacomomargiacchiviolinmak7147 Do you mean the diameter or the length and thickness also?

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 the lenght is externsl or internal?

🙏🙏🙏🙏

Mainly how it's clamped to the bed and how you align it if the alignment is off. And info on spindle setup, taper roller bearing etc

Hi again, I can try!

@@spewgw8417 I can of course do this in a video, but simply stated: The ML10 has a "fixed" headstock-to-bed alignment arrangement. Very "crude", much like the tailstock (and really also the saddle). There is no adjustment screws as found on the ML7 and Super7, the alignment being determined solely on the dovetail surfaces to the front bedway and just clamped with 2 screws to the rear bedway. My ML10 is of the original version with a very basic spindle bearing design (and "sturdy" as well as accurate). The hardened spindle runs directly in the cast iron headstock in a split bearing. The later introduced version sports 2 opposed taper roller bearings front/back, which offers higher spindle speeds.

Thnks for valid comments! I agree to your comments. The Myford headstock is mounted to the bed using 4 M8 bolts and although a possible "weakness" it is as far as I know not reported as such by anyone. Mind you, it is a small lathe and I assume it is to be used within it's "performance envelope" ie. not meant for turning brake disks or the likes :) and for normal usage I assume the design is adequate. I do however also assume that the intention of the design was to have an "all-round single machine" for a small workshop, hence for example the gap, which increases the practical usage a lot, but also invites to mount "too large" workpieces. I assume the bed had been "stiffer" without this gap. Same with the backgear: correctly used, a fantastic function, but also maybe tempting to hog metal outside of the machines real capacity. Both cases maybe resulting in "flex" in different areas, including the bed and headstock. PS! I have also tried other methods to test for play, indicator foot on the headstock included, eliminating the bed and cannot really see any difference, concluding that this is an OK approach to detect the majority of the play.

Thnks! Well, sometimes one is lucky! Had this been a gear machine I surely would have broken the tip, but if so, it might not have happened in the first place then.

Thnks for the explanation. Happy new year to you too!

Don't try to tell Elon that!

@PiefacePete46 That I am getting old?😀

Hi there, thanks for commenting! No clue about the granite plate.. must ask Henrik!

Hi! I'm not sure where the stone itself originates from but it is made by Zeiss, it came off an old CMM. Enjoy your weekend!

@@henrikandren6967I thank you both for answering my question! Never knew ZEISS made granite plates, maybe they bought them from Johann Fischer or so. I need a 2000mm one for a Huron PU771, but I don't want to rob a bank 🙂Buying those used without a geometry check protocol is always risky... Marlon

@@raymondmarteene7047 Thnks for commenting. Thought about that too, but no.. not correct dimensions :)

You're welcome!

My pleasure!

@@jorickferies2299 Thnks, and thanks the same!

@@Mac-mu9cs I can relate to that also. Currently I have a pretty well equipped workshop, in my eyes at least, but not very big and hardly any leftover space. It was not always like this though and I started with only room for a TAIG microlathe. Great little lathe and I made the best of this and the space I had in our storage room aside all sorts of things.. in the cellar where we lived then, also unheated.

@@RustyInventions-wz6ir Thnks. Much appreciated

@@spewgw8417 No plans as of now, but could be fun. The work we do, or shall I say the level of perfection that we strive to achieve to restore machines is generally to a "industry standard" of "2 tenths per foot" ie 5/1000 of a millimeter. Below this level I cannot make repeatable accurate measurements in my home shop.I guess you could that most parts on a watchmaker lathe would be within that spec

@jansverrehaugjord9934 sounds good, maybe look into the older watchmakers lathes that use the dual bronze bearing setup, that would be an interesting video showing the scraping process of those bearings, as they are not split like the ml7, it looks a bit like a collet

@@spewgw8417 Certainly interesting design. I have a machinist friend who is also a watchmaker and has a variety of different lathes and milling machines, among those a number of Schaublin's as well as diffeent watchmaker lathes of other brands. I bet he has been through these steps.

Thnks for the nice comments! I have used Glasscast epoxy, bought locally here from Gustavsen: www.gustavsenas.no/easy-composites/1215mor/epoxy-glassklar-3-velg-riktig-mengde PS! I am by no means an expert on neither epoxy itself nor epoxy granite, but it sems to work. The mix was not following a specific "recipe" and aside from getting the basic "fluidness ratio" epoxy/sand, I rather used what I had from a "throw-in-metal-pieces" point-of-view to add weight. I have also drilled holes in the cross-member sections of the bed and inserted a number of threaded rod pieces to further stiffen and bind the epoxy/sand mix. PS! I know Stefan from a scraping class in Denmark I co-hosted and where he attended as a student. We both stayed at the same beach-house, also joined by Richard King, the scraping mentor from USA I have befriended, who was the teacher (as we have been most fortunate to have in most of the other classes I have participated in). Also "bunking" together with us was Mr. Christensen from Australia, so we were a very International team! We had a very nice time together and the class was (as usual) very rewarding to hold.

@jansverrehaugjord9934 That's really cool to hear, sound like a good gang to hang out with! I will look into that resin, seems like clear epoxy. I'm from Sweden, we have the warehouse Biltema like you have in Norway. Their polyester with hardener might also work... But I think what you put in it matters the most, only polyester resin is quite light... I am thinking of steel balls, like ballbearing balls. The smaller ones filling voids good and compact well, and they are hard, low elasticity module...

@@trashanken The epoxy/polyester only acts as a bonding agent, so you are probably right. Use what you have was my mantra here, but I am sure one can optimize this a lot vs my approach. PS! There is another Swedish gentleman having experimented and investigated quite a lot more into this than me. He might be worth discussin this topic with: ruclips.net/video/gjw5juGG1g8/видео.html

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Thanks, he was a interesting fellow! After that I found even more epoxy granite builders...

@@trashanken Oh yes, there are many :)

Thnks for valid comments! All I can say in defence is that this is more than 11 years back, so early in my "career" :)

@ okay I’ll let you off 😂 we all make mistakes it’s part of the process.

@royalguilds2464 No problem, always nice to have some constructive feedback.

Hi there, thanks for chiming in! Sounds great re. the 2 axis ELS.. doyou have some pics/videos to share? I am curios how you mounted the X-axis motor ie. in forn or back, geared/belt drive or direct (in-line). Oh.. Louis has released the V13 software? Wasn't paying attention so had not noticed. Well, good! I had an earlier test version installed, but reverted to V12.. must have been a couple of years back now. However, I will surely try again! Sure it is a real benefit having a 3phase motor run via a VFD.. I also (mostly) adopt this (if i can).

@ not the best video but here is my setup, I fitted the Z stepper in the same place as you on a bracket bolted to original holes on motor bracket & the X stepper on rear of crosslide direct drive via a flex coupling. ruclips.net/video/CWqIbP4mnh0/видео.htmlsi=ITGt6euFocmfBYZB

@@torsiondell Thnks! I apologize, but I see I have looked at your channel (and commented) before, but didn't remember before I wrote you here. Anyway, You might want to add another video or put in a comment that you have installed the Imperial version of the Rocketronics software. I am not sure if this is common knowledge namely.. :)

Thnks for the nice comment!

You're welcome! Yes, you won't regret it. Thanks the same!

Thnks and thnks the same!

That is great to hear! Thnks also for the nice comments. I have been uploading to FB and my Norwegian YT channel and admittedly lagged on the updates here. As written elsewhere, I am totally not into "monetization", hence not "forced" to upload frequently nor chasing maximum number of subscribers, rather doing this purely as help and inspiration to others and therefore also want to be able to answer each and every comment as there is lots to be learnt from interacting with fellow "hobbyists". Merry Xmas to you!

Thnks the same!

You there too? Thnks! No money in this (I steer away from monetization etc., ie. not being a "regular" YT'er) and I want to keep this solely as a hobby. The principal "pay-back" for me is to inspire others.. and certainly be able to excel beyond my abilities. That said, I actually think I am better at this than "at my paying job".. haha

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 maybe time for a professional change/upgrade :):)

@@mrosmolen Well, I think one needs to put a heck of a lot more effort into YT'ing than I do.. maybe also including have a younger, better looking person to present the work .. haha

Hi there, I would say so, yes. Very smooth operation. Highly likely overkill on such a machine though..

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 thanks Jan

Thnks for commenting. Could be.. see my later video on the subject instead, and/or refer to the instruction manual :)

Yes, dissambly into parts will make it easier of course. I am quite certain that no part are 100Kg.. maybe 50? I don't remember exactly now how I managed, but I would either have another person to help and/or use a crane of some sort.

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Thank you for your answer, 50 kilo is doable with 2 people definetly I even have a stair climbing transport cart which I think can easily handle 50 kilos.

This is not how I have learnt, but it might work. More chance of dirt/oil ingress I guess. Anyhow, look at the manufacturers website/info and follow their instructions.

Was not your first plan to do a relief cut on the vertical surface before adding the rulon

@ I have been taught to relieve the middle 1/3 yes, but still having Rulon there. This is also if you don't use Rulon. The idea is to avoid rock, or at least prolong the usage time until this happens. This way the contact surface actually increases until it is worn flat

Where do you buy the Turcite or Rulon? Here in Germany there are only large quantities in the wholesale trade only for business customers. Most of it is 1.5mm or thicker. I just need a narrow strip.

Hallo, I have not bought the Rulon material directly, but through a contact in the US. You can however try them: TriStar Plastics www.tstar.com/ Turcite, as far as I know.. is made in Sweden by Trelelborg www.trelleborg.com/en/seals/products-and-solutions/polymer-bearings-and-bushings/turcite-b-slydway and they may have European dealers from which you can buy. Then you have some Chinese knock-offs that you may find if you google after Turcite or Rulon or similar words.

Hi there, thanks for the comment. This modification didn't change the travel for the tailstock barrel. Still is 4".

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 ... oh i am so sorry, I was looking for solutions to increase the travel and i saw your video on the fly as i was simultaneously looking at other videos. As clearly I've missed the reason you would go through such a mod, I would appreciate if you clarified what is this mod achieving ?

@@IAGVyuing 2 things really: ejector as well as better access/handling the handwheel

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 ... ok i just assumed it did extend travel ... this is the other video that actually increased the travel ... an exact solution i was hunting for ... ruclips.net/video/eEciQ7dgz0U/видео.htmlsi=0FbRASRCINM5aqs8

I bet I had 🙂 Thanks!

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 the cutting tool needs to be at 45° you had it at 90° thats why the left flat side of you cutter come int the way and did the flat slope*

Well.. not sure why I called the video part - 1. I see I have written "Will get back to details on the more general machine modifications later as well as further use of the ELS system." I guess it can fall into the category "sometimes optimism outpaces reality", at the very least I haven't done much on this machine the last year or so, instead being busy with other projects (more so than in my English YT channel these are documented on our local machining FB page up here in Scandinavia as well as my other YT channel in Norwegian.. "Haugjord's roterom"). I got a bit stuck on the spindle motor/motorizing assembly, not being totally happy with how my conversion to a multi-rib V-belt functioned. "Fooled around" with different motors/solutions, and although now currently setup with a 2hp motor in the original position, still not really as strong as I want at low speeds (I also tried a couple of different VFD's). I think I need a bigger belt, but this also requires a different set of step-pulleys. I contemplate using a ribbed (ie. timing) belt instead and run over eg. a 2 step pulley, mounting the motor closer. This all might deserve a separate video, but first I need to decide & buy parts etc. Anyway, a number of other projects have gotten priority over this machine, but thanks for reminding me to get back on track!

Hei, Jeg har nok dessverre ingen slik, men hvis du ser tegning, er det del nr. 76? www.lathes.co.uk/myfordrebuild/www.onepoint6.co.uk/Myford/Countershaft_and_Clutch.htm

@@GottaKnowJoeHobbies Which manual was that, ie. forvwhich machine? Can you give me your emailor alternatively Messenger contact ?

Thanks!

Thnks for the comment! In general, I'd say that more than 1.5-2/10 mm is better to machine ie. mill

@@jansverrehaugjord9934I’m not sure of my translation you say well no more than 1.5 to 2 on milling machine ? Thank you for your reply

@@Jeanbond2990 yes, 15-20 /100 mm is max

@@Jeanbond2990 Normally I would say10/100 is max I bother with myself

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 👍

Thnks

2 bolts from underneath. Sorry for leaving that out of the video. However, it is possible to understand more by looking at this video ruclips.net/video/L2f7hJ6L76Q/видео.htmlsi=tvyhtp2R9diS6Svp

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Thanks, I was wondering why it would not move. The parts diagrams in the Smithy manual did not show it. I just checked and that's it. Thanks again.

@@michaelwilson4700 You're welcome. Feel free to ask more if you need to.. I will do my best to answer

I am not sure if Louis ie. Rocketronica has finished the Imperial functionality ny now, but if not it is metric only. That said, it is a "professional" system!

@@RustyInventions-wz6ir You're welcome. Glad I could be of inspiration

Thnks! Yes, it is a very nice kit!

@@christianstab5299 Sorry, I don't, but I may have a "German machinist friend" capable to help you. pl. contact me at Messenger or Whatsup

Henrik Andren will be able to do this also! He can plane the bed as well as do the fitting of other parts eg. underside of saddle, tailstock foot and I can probably be persuaded to assist on the other aspects of this :)

@@BjørnKaarigstad not sure.. might actually be for grease. I would search the Myford forums for an answer

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 It is not for grease. So wrong of me too call it "oil nippel" It is those caps with a spring loaded lid.

@@BjørnKaarigstad OK. well, I guess you can us thin (ISO32) oil there

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Sorry for Norwegian too all out ther, but becose not essesinal/relevant too the video. ok med sms/tlf en dag ? Ønsker å lære ting, og du KAN ting. Men håper det kan bli litt to-veis.Har sett MASSE videoer ang de olje drypperene til lagerene. Liker ingen av dem. Vil prøve å lager noe som styres av Android og kan dryppe konsistent. Skal høre med Myford ang mengde ++++++ DET bilr uansett mitt første prosjekt/forbedring. For de som står der nå. Enten drypper de ikke, eller så er de tomme på null komma svisj :)

1-3 fas

Ok. Jag har en likadan maximat och tänker koppla via en 1-3 frekvensomriktare. Fråga: har du någon ritning hur den kopplas in? Man måste väl bygla om motorn.

@@solo-uke har du en email jeg kan sende til?

@@solo-uke du må koble motor som trekant (delta) snl.no/asynkronmotor Mulig det står hvordan dette er på baksiden av motorens koblingspanelcover

Yes, this Super 7 MK1 had a clucth originally, but I opted to remove the old style clutch that was mounted as this had some "issues". With a 3 phase motor and a VFD as this machien is set up with you can swicth on/off "indiscrimatively" and I find that I no longer use the clutch

No. I haven't, but thanks for the suggestion! I might give that a try next time :)