Wheel nuts: Ultimate 'ghetto engineering' DIY deep-dive | Auto Expert John Cadogan
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- Cross-type wheel brace from Auto 1:
bit.ly/3NMFCzk
Anti-seize from AIMS Industrial:
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900g (2lb) brass hammer:
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900g (2lb) dead-blow hammer:
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Hammer-friendly long breaker bar for your socket set (1/2-inch drive) from Auto 1:
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Socket extension set (1/2-inch drive) from Auto 1:
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Impact socket set (1/2-inch drive, deep, metric) from Auto 1:
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Ryobi 18V impact wrench (Bunnings):
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When my daughter was about 10 years old I got her to change a tyre just to prove the point (to my wife) that a kid could change a tyre. The only help she got was me taking the tyre out of the boot (and verbal instructions on what to do).
She got the nuts off easily by standing on the edge of the lever. Got the tyre off by jacking the car to just the right height that the wheel just rolled off and got the spare wheel back on by doing everything in reverse.
She was so proud of her self she kept telling everyone she could change a flat tyre.
Good on you dad. Real Dada pass on knowledge!
I remember in the early 2000s, I was working as a truck jockey. The truck we were in had a steer tyre flat. Middle of the hay plains, the driver removed a sign post and used that as leverage to undo the nuts. Took us about an hour to do the tyre change, very successful method.
I miss Hub Caps.
They created Schrodingers’ Wheel Nuts, which could be tight/loose.
Hahahahahahaha
I love it. They could. The wheel could fall off and not.
This is hilarious!
It would reduce the loss of nuts themselves somewhat.
Metal hubcaps also served as an audible warning if one of the nuts was in an undone state
Shrodinger's nuts, now there’s something to contemplate.
I started at the diesel price video. Snatch straps auto played next, then this. The engineering speak without being dry and long winded is what kept me on as I’m currently studying engineering. The point of failure diagram and discussion made simple sense.
Incidentally, I grabbed out the impact driver to rotate the tyres recently on the Ute mainly because I’m getting up there in years and couldn’t be stuffed manually undoing 24 bolts. Starting by hand is always my advice too.
New Aussie subscriber. 👍🏻
I started working on my car myself during lockdown 2020, this is a bloody great video! You've cleared up a huge number of questions or myths I had collected from teaching myself using google and youtube. Awesome stuff!! Cheers John!
I remember when I was a apprentice mechanic, I was as at Tafe and the teacher Colin Prest (yes he started prest automotive) asked how I did wheels up. I replied to him I use the rattle gun, he then grabbed a rattle gun and asked me what torque a old holden wheel we had at tafe should be at. I replied about 70-80 foot pound. So he gave me the rattle gun and got me to tighten the wheel, well when he went to use his torque wrench they were all about 70-80 pound feet, he never brought that subject up again.
I've been a tech for 14 years and own $2500 of torque equipment and have done up more wheels than most people have had hot dinners (literally). If I do wheels up with the gun I use my old worn out gun and give it a quick double tap and they end up about where I want them. This is a skill that takes years of checking with a torque wrench to achieve. After the lesson from Colin I went out and ordered a torque wrench and spent the next 4 years checking my rattle gun.
I laugh at the forums when people say VW wheel bolts shouldn't be greased otherwise it puts off the torque reading. Well thats all good when they are new but what about when they're corroded lol.
Arm chair experts always crack me up.
the problem is many of these dickheads at the tire shops dont adjust the setting on the gun before tightening so its very easy to over tighten.
The Thumpometer and the eyeometer are my go to tools for every job that cant be fixed with duct tape and/or silicon sealant.
Have carried a decent breaker bar in the boot for decades. Not just handy for loosening nuts, can keep the sound of banjos away too 😉 Do have a rattle gun, but that's reserved for use on the driveway.
Also, a decent torque wrench doesn't cost much, and makes the removal job a lot easier. Whenever the wheels are off, they get torqued back on.
Here in New Zealand in the mid 1970's when air tools first become affordable but no brains trained at garages everyone thought they were the best invention since sliced bread.
I was a early teen then and remember fully trained mechanics having competitions to see who can run up the titest nuts. Many times during the day the tire guy would cuss on the guy who ran it up, often he would break the stud. It was only in late 1990's torque specs were recognized as legit.
As a fitter machinist and then progressing on as a mechanical engineer, and having spent a fair chunk of my life also working in and managing a materials testing lab and now about to retire, I enjoyed that! Points well made and articulated and a good informative lecture. Thank you!
all that for a stupid wheel nut
@@grimreaper6112 Like driving on the motorway and seeing a single tyre roll past you. Lol.
Putting the standard wheel brace on the nut so the handle is nearly parallel to the ground and then giving it a stomp or two with your heel (preferably wearing cushioned footwear) will generally loosen most wheel nuts unless they are ridiculously tight. Just be careful. Carry a torque wrench for tightening them to spec.
Just get the tire on any way you can and go straight to the tire shop.
done wrong or if you slip you can skewer your self in the leg! not fun could be fatal if you can stop the bleeding or if you nicked the major blood vessels
@@chrisforgan731 Oh mate please! Always be careful, not sayin' otherwise.
A two foot long 1/2 inch breaker bar isn't expensive, easily fits in the area around the spare, doesn't require batteries. Just leave a short extension and whatever size socket matches the lugnuts on it and you'll be good to go. They also make a collapsible version of the X style tire iron. I have used both in my vehicles for decades and have been rotating my own tires for the last few years since my preferred tire shop got bought out and crossthreaded a stud three times in a row. Yes, three times in a row, after no problems in 25 years with at least two visits a year per vehicle for up to six vehicles between my personal and business vehicles.
I can vouch for the therapeutic effects of owning a few torque wrenches covering 2 Nm up to 300 Nms. It gives peace of mind and a sound sleep as you know that you can handle anything your bicycle, motorbike, other motor vehicles or hardware can throw at you. This is not a joke or an exaggeration, thank you John.
Erm, I use my foot. Carefully place Bog Standard Lug Wrench (identical to the one you use in demonstration) snugly, fully onto fastener, take up slack, (anti-clockwise, of course!) then step aboard. I weigh 72kg. If the fastener does not instantaneously oblige, "bend ze knees" and bounce, keeping pressure on the wrench at all times. Depending on the level of energetic enthusiasm one imparts to the 'bounce' it is easy to get one to two gees (jeez!) of effort, equating to in make-it-up-as-you-go-along-speak, of approximately 144 to 216kg on the Bog Standard Lug Wrench handle. 100% success rate for me in Fifty-Two years of car owning and driving and truck driving and tractor driving. Love what you do JC, keep it up!
Hi John, great viewing as usual. One thing I didn’t see you cover (or missed) is making sure the contact surfaces of the wheel and hub are clean. If there is dirt on either or both, the tension in the stud can be lost or reduced sufficiently to significantly reduce the clamping force and induce potential shear failure of the stud.
Tip when storing cordless drills and drivers - you can usually set the forward/reverse switch in a middle position which locks the trigger, preventing the battery draining accidental activation.
Yes. Agreed. Toll an shift, though, and nudge the switch. You could remover the battery and tape the terminals...
I remove the battery and further to what John has said, I use the transport cover for the dewalt batteries. Safe as houses.
@@AutoExpertJC keep the bugger in it’s box, I use battery tools every day,never had one discharge itself in the box it came in.
One thing is for sure when you do have a flat it's always: Dark, cold, wet at least one the nut/bolt will be rounded and the jack will not work as needed.
You forgot to mention , it will be the last nut due to be undone.
This little discussion reminded me of when I began working on my dad's car at about eight. It was a 63 bug and the right hand wheels had lefthand threads. We had one more with the same setup, my dad always managed to get the lug nuts mixed, we replaced many studs. You always brighten my day!
Just you and I made a living pulling wrenches. I used to stand on the wrenches to get lug nuts loose. I now have an electric 1/2 drive wrench I take with me.
A drop of engine oil from the dip stick applied to the wheel stud works a treat even years after applying.
I loved the sentence: When you understand the context, you know about the nuance and can make the adaptions.
Thanks 👍
Poetry in engineering! What a great joy it is always to listen to Mr. Cadogan explain mechanical engineering (and other sciences) in such practical and accessible ways to those sharing a passion for auto(mobiles) but lacking a degree in mechanical engineering. With his irresistible blend of whimsical humour and factual seriousness he draws back the curtain of ignorance to reveal for all that care to watch and listen the synergy and elegance of underlying form that is the enabling essence of our shared passion. And doing this with the example of a humble wheel nut I found to be so poetic I simply had to comment to show my huge respect for Mr. Cadogan and appreciation for his service to us all! Respect and thanks dear sir. And I haven't even mentioned contributions to discussions on auto' ethics! To fellow enthusiasts I recommend read R.M. Pirsig's 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance' for more on 'underlying form' - the book inspired my degree in mechanical engineering, and so changed my life!
From this mechanic to others just buy a 600mm or more breaker bar and the appropriate sized single hex socket for your vehicle and keep it in the car. Problem solved
That's what I thought, no need for a rattle gun to undo wheel nuts maybe one day.
@@Low760 cheapest and easiest problem solver for people. If you can get an 800mm breaker bar then even easier
@@Low760 am I the only one that makes the 'ugga-dugga' noise when doing up wheel nuts with a wheel brace or torque wrench?
@@TheKnobCalledTone. 🤣🤣
@@TheKnobCalledTone. I click with my calibrated elbow from years of practice.
My grandfather told the story to me of when he got his tyres changed, he would wait until they had put all the wheels on and then he’d tell them to undo all of them and tighten them by hand.
lol Smart man. Everyone does this today though. I couldn't even the top off my cistern for the loo as a previous repair person had tightened it with god only knows what and it was sitting completely flush with the plastic.
Years ago when the Patrol wheels coming off issue raised its head I took at look at tyre shops in my own town in regional Queensland to see what they were doing. Most of the workshops were visible from the street so it was an easy task. Every single shop simply ran the nuts down hard with a rattler. No torque wrenches in sight. Quite an eye opener.
This is why I like DIY..no cut corners.
I bought an electric impact for removing wheel nuts about ten years ago now that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket.. No batterirs to charge and came with 3 different impact sockets.. It seems to wind up a big spring internally. Was skeptical at first but it dont half whip the nuts off, dont bother with the wheel brace anymore. Only about 50 usd also so rather keep that in the car than an expensive lithium impact 😊👍🏻
Yeah, Clarke make them, dirt cheap, and will also fetch off hub nuts, at much higher torque.
great tool I love it
I have one of these too. But I also have a cross brace and plastic faced hammer.
Battery-powered impact drivers
are indeed effective, if strange to operate first time up. I found that can be rather savage on one's fingers, so need to take care. I wish that we had them in my youth; would've saved a lot of sweat out the back of Dingo Piss Creek!
My Heep I mean '02 "Jeep" GCL, doesn't have a working 12V socket and several shops can't figure out how to fix without causing other electrical issues and rapid battery drain. Not spending $1000's on that plug.
I am a new mechanic and need to take off axel nuts, wheel hubs, control arm brackets and A plates, ball joints and of course wheel lug nuts.
This requires far more than 100-300ft-lbs 12V corded impact. I also need to get into tight spaces those cords won't allow and travel around the vehicle.
▪︎ Ryobi One+ HP 18v Brushless Mid Torque 1/2" drive Impact Wrench (P262) has 600ft-lbs Breakaway and 450ft-lbs of fastening torque. And will take off pretty much everything but rust welded high torque bolts and semi wheel lugs at 500-600 Ft-Lbs!
▪︎ The High Torque Impact Wrench
Ryobi One + HP 18v Brushless 1/2" Impact Wrench (PBLIW01B) has 1170 Ft-Lbs of Breakaway and 700 Ft-Lbs of fastening torque. This will do anything.
You can even get a PowerSocket by Ingersoll Rand which is a weighted Impact socket for cam bolts that is thick wall with a flywheel design that increases your torque by 20-25% about $80 for one socket. But if you get a mid torque impact it may boost it up enough without paying the $200+ for a high torque with 25% more torque.
Both these Ryobi's are under $250 for a full kit on Ryobi Days Sale.
Ryobi is made by TTI which also makes Milwaukee so there is no need to go Red and pay 2-3X as much
Don't forget to carry something for the jack to sit on, especially on softer ground. I used to carry a short piece of 4" by 2' wooden plank to slide under the jack, but then discovered those square heavy duty plastic scaffold feet (cheap as chips)- much classier and you can also use them as a square frizbee or an impromptu dinner plate, etc :)
John,
I enjoy your videos and have learned a few things along the way. So I am a firm believer that a old dog can learn new tricks. I say that with a smile as as I'm a retired CAT&CUMMINGS mechanic.
And thanks for sharing your experience with so many people that don't have a clue about wheel or lug nuts.
Some years ago I owned a Ford Focus 2L diesel turbo. Magnificent power train with it's DC trans. On the wheel nuts were aluminium dress-ups, still nut shaped. When a rattle gun is applied to these they are instantly wrecked, which was astonishing to young bogan tyre fitter in Emerald, Qld one day. He managed to wreck a baker's dozen of these before I stopped goofing off in the waiting room and ventured out to see what was going on. Careful use of a hand wrench is required with these. On that same trip (from Vic) I was pleased to see the fitter in a Beaurepaire shop use a torque wrench on my nuts - impressed.
Holy smokes…you’re the only video I’ve watched that demonstrates how to properly adjust for the desired torque setting…accounting for backlash.
I worked in a cal lab and part of my job was calibrating and repairing torque tools. We were taught to account for BACKLASH when setting our testing points.
Thanks. You’ve just educated the masses. Lol.
I live in Syracuse NY USA. Lots of salt and calcium used. Corrosion of wheel studs and nuts, and rust locking wheels to hubs are real problems. I use anti seize on studs and grease mating sufaces of hubs and wheels. Thanks for the info on reduction factor for torqueing with lubrication. I like your humor.
Set the parking brake to aid in rear wheel tire change and to help keep the car from rolling off the jack. Also use a couple cheap rubber wheel chocks. Tighten the nuts in a star pattern. After changing a tire(s) re-torque the nuts after 50km as dirt or rust between surfaces may create false torques.
Loosen the nuts before jacking, tighten after it's down.
There is never any dirt or rust between my surfaces! Steel nuts, steel wheels, both of their mating surfaces get wiped down with a cloth, or maybe just with my finger, before I mate them. I might use my finger to put a very thin film of multi-purpose grease on the nut's mating surface, at the same time feeling the surface to make sure there is no sand on it, and I put a tiny drop of motor oil on end of the stud furthest from the wheel, before I run the nut down the stud. I don't think anti-seize is necessary. I use anti-seize is for exhaust system fasteners. Make disassembling them years later a helk of a lot easier. I wish they would have assembled them at the factory that way but they never do. Sparking plugs too get a tiny dab of anti-seize. A dab goes on it near the tip, care being taken to not get any on he the ceramic insulator. With sparking plugs I'll run the plug down just until the crush-washer gasket touches the cylinder head, then run it out, and pull it out and look at it, to make sure the anti-seize has lightly coated all the threads. Usually it has.
In the sixties some cars had left threaded bolts for the wheels. Not knowing this for our dad's Fiat Neckar, we were hanging on a 3m tube in trying to unloose them. We got the hint to give the bolt a kick in the other direction to unloosen the rust that must be there. We then discovered the thread direction.
Thanks John ☺️. The wrench that is delivered with the car is suited for not over torque the nuts even if you are strong. I don't use a hammer for undoing wheel nuts, my foot on the wrench plus quick jump does the job.
Whenever I buy new tyres the first thing I do is loosen the wheel nuts and tighten to the manufacturers spec torque with a tension wrench. Next i reduce the hugely overinflated tyres to the spec written on the door.
In my experience it is absolutely essential to make sure you know the required torque for your vehicles nuts. I always have to tell the tyre shop that my vehicle requires 140nm otherwise they are just going to whack it up to something closer to 300nm which is bloody delightful when it comes to removing your locking wheel nut !!! I have lost count of the times locking wheel nut keys have failed when attempting to remove locking wheel nuts after over-torquing by a tyre shop.
100%. I'm in Canada and it's the exact same here. Nobody has even heard of a torque wrench. They whack the lugs on with an air impact until it won't go anymore, then they roll it out of the bay doors. Done. Here's the bill.
I picked up a corded electric impact gun on sale at Canadian Tire for around $75CAD - with shops charging $40+ just to switch your seasonal tires over, it paid for itself pretty quickly.
And all it took was one incident with a chunk of metal imbedding itself in a tire for me to get into the habit of loosening and retightening the lug nuts anytime my car is in the shop so that I know that I (or, at least, whatever gentleman stops to help me!) will be able to get them off if I ever have to do so at the side of the road again.
john I went through this very subject with one of my customers some time ago the old boy passed a few years back now # respect for taking an interest in what is holding the wheels on I had an ugger bugger factory set to 70 foot pounds as this at the time was pretty much the tech sheet setting for most cars , this conversation came around because he was concerned that I was over tightening the wheel bolts and he would not be abled to release them in the event of a flat I often proved with a torque wrench that they were spot on , as well as supplying him with a neat bit of kit for the home boys who might not have the plethora of sockets that I have to tackle 90% of all bugger bolts the ones that do not want to come off one of these telescopic wheel bars they are called in the uk anyway / these wheel brace or bar has an extendable length handle and a 90 bend to get the socket to the nu/ bolt, it looks like a big brother to the one in the car kit
Yea John just had new rubber put on last week and did a trip a day later only to discover to my horror after a pit stop that I had a missing nut. Scary shit man was I pissed off.
Yeah - I would have been, too. Thanks very much, tyre shop professionals.
I live in the Nordics. Been changing winter tyres since I was 18. So 17 winters. I use anti seize and torque wrench. Its so nice to hear that actually all the things you do are correct.
Have still got a cross wheel brace that my father bought in the early 70's. Have had it in every car I had, and it hasn't let me down, even on things other than wheel nuts. Recommend.
They are both practical and dirt cheap.
buy a decent one and they last for decades. dad has had his for a similar time frame. same with a small bottle jack it used to live in the boot of the escort then it moved to the falcon now its in the ute.
Make your life easier doing this: Links to other relevant tool upgrades in the description.
Cross-type wheel brace from Auto 1:
bit.ly/3NMFCzk
Anti-seize from AIMS Industrial:
bit.ly/3wSfqgG - use code AIMSJC before checkout for 10% off.
Great feedback John. I was taught the bush trick to step on the brace with my full weight . It has never let me down. I am amazed how many folks do not know which way to unscrew.
Loosy Lefty and Righty Tighty !
I secretly want to make a range of LH studs and install them on random people's cars covertly.
mate I love your cracking humour!. Keep 'em coming! Cheers, Carl @@AutoExpertJC
Not on the left hand side of an old Valiant (or some trucks)! Left hand threads!
@@AutoExpertJC Valiant memories. Your fault?
@@AutoExpertJC My dad had a Valiant ('66 AP6) when I was a kid. That fucker had LeftHand threads on the left side. Apparently the yanks thought that would keep them tight or some shit like that. Total bastard to change wheels on the left side if you forgot or just never knew.
John, this is my first comment on any of your videos, and I have been following you for years.
All the tech BS you have impressed me with just fell of the edge of the work bench when I watched in ore as you pumped out those chin ups. Now that was worth waiting for!!!!!
Here in Sweden we change between summer and winter tires (and wheels) twice a year. I change them myself woth a torque wrench like the one you showed in the vid.Never had a wheel nut fall off, stick or a stud break off. Job done!
A friend of ours had a 1990's Ducati 900SS, and one day the rear cylinder bolts let go. Luckily it was at low speed. When the engine was rebuilt...under warranty as the bike was only a year or two old at the time...the shop discovered that Ducati was using stainless steel studs for the cylinder hold down bolts. They were torque-to-yield and being stainless steel would not "stretch" like ordinary steel ones would. The official service bulletin from Ducati said to replace them with normal high tensile steel studs and bolts to replace them, which kind of implied they knew it was an issue that might pop up at some time for owners in the future.
I once helped a lady with a flat tire. the factory wrench that came with her nissan xtrail was so short. the effort needed to remove the wheel nuts would qualify to be used in a strong man contest. luckily for her my crappy commodore comes with a factory telescopic handle wrench.
As a drifter and formerly known as a comp burnout guy I've pretty much had an apprenticeship in wheel nuts and studs. Its irrelevant how tight the wheel is. What's important is that they're evenly torqued so i rattle em once i start by hand then without checking the torque wrench. I just adjust it until she popps then torque them all. REMEMBER i change my wheels constantly YOU DON'T AND THOSE WHEELS WILL BE ON YOUR CAR FOR POSSIBLY YEAR'S SO YOUR FAMILY TRANSPORT MUST BE 💯 ON POINT 💯OF THE TIME
Engines up to the late 60's always had to have the head bolts re-tensioned after a couple of hundred miles after a rebuild. And the nut was always turned anti clockwise to find the start of the thread.
I keep a rattle gun kit in the car now + a nylon coated socket designed not to scratch 'you're' alloys.
Good idea.
Thanks, I don't usually watch youtube videos this long but this was worth it. Am also impressed with the pull-ups!
There's been quite a few times where I've had to stomp on the tyre iron to get the wheel nuts to come off. It's pretty hard on the ankles so not a great idea, but it works. In the absence of a hammer or anything else suitable, I recall one time having to drop the spare onto the the tyre iron. The ute was parked on gravel so the wheel itself just kept slipping. It belonged to a female co-worker's son who had never changed a tyre so non-denominational spiritual entity knows what torque they were tightened to, but it was bloody tight.
Brings back memory of loading ordinance on fighters in ah, south east asia. After years of use sway brace bolts would gall in the helicoil threads to the point a 3 for breaker bar was not enough to move them. Oil was applied where necessary and "management" went bonkers due to the manual stating to never lube the threads. We told them we can just leave them loose but the pilot will probably object, or we can "red x" the plane until the rack can be fixed, or we'd lube the bad ones and we all get our job done. The later was the solution accepted.
Hi John, I’ve recently bought an ezyjak for my wife and daughter. They are sold by a mob from Walgett. It seems like a great idea, it stored in a plastic box, has a 12v powered Jack/compressor/ torch and a 12v 1/2” rattle gun. Come with all the impact sockets. Just plugs into the cig outlet or onto the battery. They wouldn’t be much use in the workshop, but to get the handbrake out of trouble on the side of the road, worth the money.
i have use one of those on nuts a pnuematic gun wouldnt shift. becuase it winds up and then releases its like using a wrench and giving it a sharp love tap with a hammer.
Complete agree with Hugo on standing on the wheel brace. Obviously, applied before the vehicle is jacked with its mass keeping the wheel anchored from turning. Also obviously, you only untighen the nut to enable final removal after the jacking is complete. This was taught on mechanical principles and driver courses in the Regular Army in my day. Everything else in your video is " good stuff". ( BTW, in a lap of NSW in the ever faithful Prado with the Commanding Officer, an off route division to a national park near Broken Hill with two other female officers saw the driver commanded to take an un-reconnoitred return route( not the way in as I had pleaded). Full of lovely gibber stones, nearside rear soon had expelled its air. Guess who then restled with spare and slahed tyre? Certainly not the Command Group observing with impatience as the Sun set. The standing on the brace amazed them for at least ten seconds, but was crucial to the wheel change ( and making it back to what form of civilisation represented by BH.
Hi John,
Great pro tips.
I came from Malaysia and we do thing a little simpler.
No drill, no hammer just pure body weight.
Standing on the wrench.
Ensure it’s counter clockwise to unlock.
That all. But make sure the nuts are loosen first before jacking up the car.
Forty odd years back a woman took to managing a camper rental. Many were on trucks. I followed her in buying geared wheel nut removers. About fifty dollars. Kenworth sized, about seventy.
A great channel. Always engaging, always informative. Thanks JC
As a mechanical /electrical tradesperson. This was one of your most informative videos. I only hope that people take on board this information.
Prevention is better than the cure, if a car is serviced once a year and tyres rotated and brakes correctly inspected, then there should be no issue removing the wheel nuts if torqued correctly.
I have found the spider wheel brace to be the safest and easiest to use and should be carried in all vehicles.
Rather a beneficial, interesting and helpful report this one.
Realising that I too, even travelling from Bonnie Scotland, could perhaps get stuck in that well known Creek one day,
I thought I'd better check the pressure of my toy spare tyre. I found it to be 30PSI instead of 60PSI.
It took nearly 15 minutes to pump it up to just over the required pressure. Imagine standing in the pouring rain dealing with that.
Checked the socket for the wheel nuts. Realised that the socket size had changed so the one I had in the car was useless.
Finally I took my torque wrench off the shelf in the garage, checked the torque settings in the handbook and adjusted the wrench accordingly.
Now at least I am slightly more prepared. Thanks John.
The Hammer Theory Of Engineering postulates "There is a definite limit to how hard one can strike with a small hammer. There is no limit to how softly one can strike with a large hammer."
Static friction, I can’t overcome it when on the couch. I’ll try that explanation on my wife 😂
Extendable handle wheel spanner works great and packs away well.
One of my weekend callouts was too the Wairakei geothermal power station as the engineer's required a heavy duty torque wrench which every Bridgestone commercial fleet truck carries one, they had to torque up the main components in the system which had 48 large studs and nuts,
FYI, they all have a lock for trigger. You push the button, for forward and reverse to the middle to prevent the trigger from moving
Here in Britain we use an inexpensive (£9) telescopic wheel wrench which comes with two double ended sockets (17&19 + 21&23mm)
Extend the handle for more leverage to remove lugs and close the handle to avoid over tightening when replacing lugs
Replaces all the tools that JC listed in the description
Excellent presentation John. I keep a 4 way wheel brace in my car as I can use both arms to loosen or tighten the nuts & also it can be used to quickly spin away to tighten or loosen those nuts.
Torque wrench and a 4ended wheel brace FTW, gets the job done and doesn't take up too much room in the vehicle.
Agreed.
I put a road safety kit in a small mechanic tote in any car of my family and self. It's just a emergency service 10pc common use socket set, heavy gauge long jumper cables, snap-locking folding 4way lug wrench, 3lb mini sledge, small crescent wrench, 3 sizes each of blade and Phillips screwdrivers, a source of light that is powered by the vehicle and one battery powered with a spare set of batteries, and spares for the consumables from fuses to fluids. With this just pushed in a back corner and forgotten about until the moment it's the most important thing in the world has helped me countless times.
I do appreciate the thread of the discussion here .
John talk about concentric hub spacers and the importance of if you haven't already, I'll just pop down to Woolies and grab some popcorn 😉
I see what you're attempting there...
30-odd years ago I bought a telescopic 1/2" drive breaker bar with a swivel end and it's been in every car I've owned since, with a suitable socket attached, for removing wheelnuts.
Absolutely wouldn't be without it.
If you do replace the standard wheelbrace, though, you probably still want to keep it in the car because it might be required to work as a jack handle or as part of the procedure for accessing the spare wheel.
Nice to also know if you actually have a spare to swap with that flat! So many don’t. I always have a socket and a big breaker bar as well. I always keep a torque wrench in vehicle for trips. There is no way to torque to spec by feel. Great info as always John.
Agreed. Pointless if no spare...
@@AutoExpertJC Are those containers of goo for flat tyres rubbish?
No, but they don't fix all flats, just simple, small punctures.
lame brains that cant do up wheel nuts need a torque wrench you have to be kidding
@@JJ-wi2uw there also bad for the tyre. there a get you to the nearest tyre service device.
the other bug bear is space saver tyres while better than nothing or a can of that punctur juice. the actual wheel and tire often wont fit in the tire well.
Yup ! a spider for choice, penetrating oil can first (WD nasty for most people) A hammer is always good to have. I have a 2’ breaker bar for home. I have torque wrenches, never use them on wheel nuts nowadays, I used to, now I just do them up, give the wheel a couple of clouts with the hammer and tighten again to taste !
Can’t believe I just watched an hour video on nuts! Good job John!
The simple method to deal with the factory lug tool is to stand up with your arm straight down in a vertical orientation. You can lift the vehicle after breaking them all loose and with the weight of the vehicle sitting on the wheel it is unlikely to turn. Using the 4 way spade increases the likelihood of an unpracticed individual bashing their pushing hand into the ground. For doing maintenance in the driveway, Just buy a breaker bar and a socket set for a fraction of the cost of an electric impact.
I’ve often wondered why mining company vehicles decided some years ago to put yellow arrowed plastic caps on wheel nuts. I’ve spent many years in the Tyre industry and very very rarely had a wheel nut loosen on its own without human intervention. Thank you JC for a very interesting video.
Incredibly informative John. Just wish I'd seen it 45 years ago when i was much more clueless than i am today.
A truly excellent RUclips! Well done, John. Very helpful!
Recently, I discovered that the 9 year old Chinese manufactured spare tyre on my boat trailer had "exploded" from sitting in the sun for nine years and had never been used. Anyway, seeing that happen made me worried about the other two (light truck) tyres on the boat trailer so I decided to replace all three tyres with a known brand - Goodyear. However, I was too worried to even drive to the tyre shop with the boat trailer so I jacked up the boat trailer on to axle stands and removed all of the wheels to take them to the tyre shop. Well, what a job that was! Ended up using a sledge hammer with a wheel brace to move all of the nuts and was pleased to achieve that without breaking any of the studs. It took me most of a day to do it. I am sure glad that I had never needed to do that by the roadside in the previous 9 years that I had had the bespoke boat trailer for. My Metabo impact driver made no impact at all in removing the nuts. They were that tight! Decided to put a little grease on the studs when redoing up the nuts. I only ever drive the boat trailer about 5km to the boat ramp so I felt safe enough to apply a little grease.
So, it's not just Putin discovering Chinese tires are a bad investment?
@@johnwade1095 On the othere hand, a certain brand of tyres manufactured in Taiwan has a great reputation for both wear and robustness. Just ask any farmer who has to drive over stoney terrain on a regular basis.
@@DrakeN-ow1im good plan not naming them here, the Russians might be reading this.
I reckon even tires you know were factory fresh when you bought them shouldn't be on a vehicle for 9 years.
As usual John great vid, another deal breaker for me when I visit a mechanical workshop is the mechanic using a shifting or adjustable spanner to undo nuts and bolts on a vehicle. Get the right sized spanner dude, its not that hard.
Agreed. Shifters have their place, but that place is not on a bolt for which you have the correct fixed wrench.
@@AutoExpertJC Hi John, as an add on "personally" I use a nickel based anti-seize which I have found to be more universal, using copper on SS threads can cause SCC at the root of the thread, minor point I know however I've been caught out with this one.
@@CrapToCream i'm assuming SCC means stress corrosion cracking?
@@18_rabbit You are absolutely correct, hidden failure mechanism, one of the worst type you can have.
Ive often wondered about oiling nuts and bolts ... Now i dont need to.
Thanks very much 😊
The BEST tent pegs in the world are M12 x 200mm galvanised coach bolts (not for sand obviously) from Bunnings. I have a little tool bag with a heap of bolts, a heap of washers, the correct impact socket, and a masonary drill (just in case). I just throw the drill, the ugga dugga, and a battery in said bag when it's time to go camping. I haven't bent a tent peg in years, simply because I don't use them any more. My tent requires A LOT if pegs, and it makes really short work of the job.
G'day John, It's worth mentioning the issue of joint cleanliness for your viewers. Particularly if they're changing a tyre by the side of the road. We shouldn't just pick up the spare that's been lying in the dirt and bolt it on. The mounting face of the wheel must be clean and free from debris. The same applies to the mounting face on the vehicle. If they're not clean then the debris in the connection can compress, just like your gasket example, and the fasteners loose their tension. The studs are then subjected to shear load, instead of tensile load, which alternates in direction every revolution of the wheel. The studs then fail in fatigue and the wheel will fall off and may overtake you. Literally. Obviously this is extremely dangerous for those in the vehicle as well as anyone else impacted by the wheel.
This issue of joint relaxation can also be a problem with wheels that have thick powder coating or thick paint. The coating material can relax over time and the effect is as just described. Not good! This applies not only to the mounting face of the wheel, but also to the wheel nut seating face. This can happen on any vehicle, but my personal experience is investigating tandem trailers carrying heavy loads like back hoes, that were losing wheels. All the incidents I investigated had popular powder coated off road style rims. It was interesting to note that the manufacturers advised re-torquing wheel nuts after a relatively short drive, but of course this had never happened. It became a company requirement any time a wheel was installed.
It's also worth mentioning that never seize gets everywhere!!! No matter how hard you try to avoid that.
Very good information and superb presentation, thanks.
You are amazing, I've learnt heaps. And very entertaining to listen to
The first thing an apprentice does here in the UK is build his tools and learn case hardening. there are many legitimate uses for using a hammer including hitting your other tools. They are not just nail pounders.
I always use anti-seize copper grease or Ceratech on my wheel studs, only a tiny amount though, to much and over tightening is possible if you dont have a torque wrench to hand.
I have a technical background, having been an engine re-conditioner, CNC operator and electronics installer. I planned the epic around Orstralia trip [well, let's be honest. From Sydney to Adelaide via Melbourne [Why? Why? YYYYYYYYYY?] and back via the Hay Plains. Our "mobile home" was a Ford Transit 2.4 lt diesel with shower, toilet, gas hot water; all the fuckin shit we never used. Point is, dropped in to a mate's place to do a service before this epic trip and he asked a great question I had never thought of. Not this first few. Bear with me. "How's ya spare?" He asked. "Checked it. A Okay! " I quipped back. "Where's ya jack and wheel brace?" "Right here" I retorted. "Can ya undo the wheel nuts? Sometimes these tyre places will tighten 'em beyond what you or I , my friend, could ever undo". Yep. There were two nuts I could not undo without 1 metre pipe extension. Thank you Ian Patten for filling a gap in my pre travel checks and my overall Dunning-Kruger knowledge.
I was thinking about you yesterday John. Young bloke at work brought an old F350. The rust is pretty bad under the bonnet and around the firewall so someone has made up brackets and welded 2 steel tubes from both front top engine bay corners to approx 30cm inset from top back firewall corners.
I didn't get photos and it's probably nothing new to you, but it's times like this when a back yarder feels compelled to reach out to John Cadogan.
Awesome structural engineering...
The general rule of stubborn fastener removal with a hammer is, if at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer dude!😂
Great video Cadoge’s , straight facts - shame more people don’t understand how important torque settings are.
Thanks Peter.
Blows chrome off your tool
Tiffany: YeSSSS!
Not everyone can do that.
Excellent data, many thanks 👍🏻
I actually listened to the whole video! Well worth it.
Love your work John
Supercrap do an extending wheel wrench for $18, extends to 530mm, way easier (and safer for your nuts) than smacking it with a hammer and around the same size as the OEM wrench when not extended, I have one similar and its well worth it.
a 4 way brace is a great thing to carry. another is a proper breaker bar, extension and socket of the right size. you can aslo get a variable legnth tire wrench set that has a few sockets and a adjustable bar all in a tool pouch that easy to fit in the wheel well
With the four -way lug wrench, I'll position a jack stand at the far end. You can give it a pretty good stomp to overcome most issues.
I have a nice 1" ugga dugga at the shop.
My goodness!! 31:50 Straightening out a CRANKSHAFT with one of those?
Wow! Bonky Bonky!!
Those little wheel braces are better then the four spoke ones. A copper made change the low treaded tyre to the spare one day at the airport rank. I told him I couldnt do it. He said its made to use your foot. Usually they book you but thanks to the Canb Airport Copper that helped me.lol
fuck no! a proper 4 way brace is the better tool. yes those short levers are supplied for a reason. so big monkeys dont over do it and damage the studs.
Excellent video. Thanks!
There certainly is vibration that affects wheels, and that is on corrugated roads. I’ve seen cases where there were some loose nuts on all wheels, on every vehicle in the convoy after a considerable distance. It was real eye opener, and some of the blokes were looking pretty green when they found out just how little was holding their wheels on. I now recommend that people do not use anti seize, and to check their wheel nuts after the first few hours on the dirt, and regularly after that.