2 25 Engine. Fitting the distributor drive
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2021
- Be part of this channel! = britrest.com/subscriptions/
Shop 'till you drop = www.britrest.com/shop
utreon.com/c/britrest/videos
www.paypal.me/britrest2018
/ britrest
Your support is appreciated!
If you have a Defender/Tdi problem and do not know how to fix it, drop me a line!
Maybe I can help!?
britrest@britrest.com
Send me a postcard for my wall!
Britannica Restorations Ltd
9 Ch. Rawson
Sherbrooke
Quebec
J1M2A3
Canada 
Авто/Мото
Enjoyed this Mike. Your attention to detail is mesmerising.
Thanks.👍🏻😉
Glad you enjoyed it
Oh....happy days. _''Rock on Tommy!''_
Followed by _''You little tinker''_
And my favourite:
_''oooh! - you've got me skin!''_
A trip down mammary lane...
I used to like it when there were bright links on the timing chain to line things up, never any headaches like with this engine, I suppose they call that progress. I wish that I could get hold of a complete petrol defender two and a half engine, cause you have given me the urge to do one up. Great video Mike, please keep em coming. Best wishes from Yorkshire Rob..
Hola te escribo desde Perú, Cusco para ser más exactos, quería felicitarte por los vídeos que presentas y a la vez agradecerte porque de verdad han sido muy didácticos y me han ayudado mucho para poder entender la mecánica de estos magníficos vehículos, gracias nuevamente y un abrazo desde el otro lado del charco!!!
¡Gracias mi amigo!
¡Siempre puedes hacer preguntas aquí!
Miguel
Mike
That was a very good bit of learning that was.
Nice one 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Learning new things.
Cheers King Mike 🥃
Now I know why my distributor is 180 degrees out (followed the book regarding the P mark) and I know how to do it properly now, a job for next year will be to take the engine out and fit it properly. Thanks Mike.
It is quite confusing - I am surprised there are no clear reference to it - Haynes copies the LR manual
That explains how I managed to get not one but two series engines 180 degrees out, both ended up with number one at the rear, took me a little while to suss out why it wouldn't start, never did change them back.
Mike, this was a really helpful video. I too was confused to find the P on the camshaft sprocket 180 degrees out with number one piston at TDC, until I read the manual and noted that it had to be at TDC on the firing stroke on number one cylinder. I set mine up without the head on so I couldn’t see where the valves were rocking on number 4 cylinder. However with the cam gallery covers off, you can see the cam lobes for number one and four cylinders. Like you I marked the angle of the skew gear offset on the block with a sharpie. Getting the skew gear aligned was ok, but the hole in the bronze bush sits slightly lower than the hole in the block. Raising it up to align alters the skew gear slightly. It’s something of a challenge getting the grub screw to line up with the hole. How folks manage that with the engine in place is nothing short of miraculous. I have to say I got the same sense of achievement the I fitted the distributor and found the rotor arm facing correctly. A Jamieson’s moment! I’ve never rebuilt a 2.25 engine before, your video series has been enormously helpful and entertaining, thanks again
Glad it helped - I now do them with the head on - even if not tightened down
Nice job once again 👍🇬🇧🇬🇧
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks
Thank you!
Great video just enjoy your class 👍
Glad you like them!
These videos are very handy for me Mike thank you! Got a ex mod series 3 2.25 petrol that's having bit of a spruce up and the engine just won't run right and there's a few gaskets that need replacing etc we think it's the carb that needs rebuilding as when we have had it running (all be it not for very long) it's sounds sweet as a nut, keep up the good work!
The Zenith carbs are awful - stick a Weber on and it will be fine
@@BritannicaRestorations great advice, thanks again
Hi from Costa Rica.. Nice video learning to work on my series petrol
This will be the same as your engine - it is a little difficult to understand, but I can answer any of your questions!
@@BritannicaRestorationsok what number can I contact you
The only way I can get the P in line with the center of the tapped hole is with piston #1 at TDC but rocking... If I put it on TDC Compression the P points down like in this video 🤯😂
Hylomar designed by Rolls Royce and manufactured under license from Rolls Royce for me the best gasket sealer in the world
One crank rotation will give TDC with the P aligned. You can then set the skew gear 180 degrees from the book and have the same result.
I use the “rule of 9” for setting the tappets - the sum of the valve that is fully open and the one you should be setting is 9, ie when 8 is fully open, set 1, when 7 is open, set 2 and so on. Easy.
I always to 2 at a time - easy
Years ago the old boys used to coat the cork gaskets with Vaseline! I think I prefer your modern method, but I’m sure you do have Vaseline?!😃
Good to know!
Hi Mike great video’s, I’m a mechanic of 30 years. I’m currently building up my 2.25 diesel 5MB, replacing the timing chain & tensioner the original gears look ok. I’ve timed it to the EP on the flywheel & exhaust valve peak opening as all suggest, but I’ve heard a lot of people saying it needs to run advanced on the flywheel to get it to run better. What do you think?
Thanks Daz.
I have got hold of an oil filter housing to fit to my 2.25 but the oil pressure switch threads are stripped. Could I utilise a helicoil in this application? Do you threadlock the helicoil in or fit it dry?
Helicoils are fitted dry
Mike, will you be running that engine on the stand before storing it?
I think it'd be interesting to see/ hear it start and run. Good tutorial on valve and ignition timing setup.
I cannot run it yet as I have no decent carb
@@BritannicaRestorations please let it be a Zenith Carb and please show how you deal with the setting up of the carb the running... Im struggling with mine.
You will never get an old Zenith to run correctly as the castings warp, allowing fuel to enter the engine via the venturi - it is almost impossible to re machine the base of the carb to correct this issue.
Even the new Zenith out of the box had bad castings back in the day - Stick a Weber on and problems will go
@@BritannicaRestorations too late... got one from Carburettor exchange in UK... actually runs well but blue smoke...
More good info.
Why not set the cam gear on your petrol the same as the diesel?
What direction did you set the gear so when it rotates, the slot is pointing in the right direction?
The petrol does not need to be so accurate and to fit the gear is a bit it and miss but according to the book:-
Lubricate and insert the skew gear assembly into
mesh with the camshaft gear. Due to the helex
angle of the teeth the gear will turn anti-clockwise
as it slides into mesh. The broad master spline must
be at 20" to the centre line when correctly seated,
as illustrated, but it may take several attempts to
achieve this.
Did anyone have experience with wobbling distributor when the engine is running? And how to fix it?
Could be the dizzy in not sat right or maybe the shaft is bent (rare)
Check the freedom to rotate the distributor shaft after inserting the distributor shaft bush retaining spigot screw..if it's the same as the diesel you don't just screw it in, it's a stupid system..