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You need some of those OEM fiberglass skirts after lowering

Tha diff make any diferent ??

I completely relate debating on doing it myself lol

Add a deep weel and wide tires✨️

Please keep the van

Wealthy ppl buy sprinters pro rams transits used are very expensive

I got thrown out by cheating partner lived in my truck until friend lat me stay while getting my house renovated was in relationship too long 18yrs what waste of love time lov the kids grown now never hear from them

Is it drivable $800?

I just bought a 96 shorty high top that was converted in Japan and came over to a Mecum car auction. only 54,000 miles & it sure is 1 of a kind like the guy told me Deezer was the conversion but i can't find out anything about them

This is what i was wondering about the oil pick up tube on if you have any information i would appreciate it

Will the oil pan work in the ranger if I don't want to do the delete on the balance shaft if it won't where do I get the correct oil pick up tube

It doesn’t matter what kind of van you get you’ll always make it work for you I have a Kia Pregrio cargo van which I converted myself into a camper and I made it work for me you’ll work out what works for you and what doesn’t

Bummer, dude! What are you going to do with the ones they sent you? Try and re-sell them or return them? Either way I hope they make it right.

Cool video and van, you’re right it’s nice having a bug out vehicle in these crazy times .Do you still have the van?

I like the van content because l have 99 dodge ram van conversion

Did you run your ranger oil pump sprocket or the fusion 2.5? The 2.5 sprocket is smaller giving more oil flow speed .

The price difference is absurd, the 2.5 engine only in my country with 37k miles is 2.500usd without shipping, was thinking about make the same swap on my Ranger but the cost is very prohibitive to me right now considering the truck was 3,8k. 😮‍💨

Toyota and Lexus uses RTV gasket maker, to seal the oil pans from factory.

At 205 re-seal give it a try it might make your oil leak stop it stopped mine.

Dajiban and friends should be your new channel name lol 😂

Paint the walls gold yes I’m a New Orleans Saints fan!

Good to have you back! Congratulations on the house.

Hey bruv! Glad to see you back on here. And as much as I love a drift van you do you man. As long as you keep making great videos and saying out of pocket shit that makes people laugh I'm here for the ride brother.

How much power did you gain from this swap? You feel it was worth it? What mpg were you getting with the 2.3?

dude went with deteoit axle. lmfaooo

Going to do this

what purpose will that serve?

Where can we get front springs

"... should be easy." 😅

How was the smog test? Did they even notice the 2.5

Question- when doing a raised spindle on the 1998-2003 Van you recommended to use Dakota brakes. The Dakota brake rotors are 6 lug and the vans are 5 lug. Can you just source 94-97 dodge van caliper and rotor to use with Dakota raised spindle?

What kind of mpg do you get?

It's probably too late now but you should have scanned the codes. Dying when you come to a stop sounds like an idle control valve problem. I've heard people say that a bad idle valve can cause transmission hiccups, and it's a $20 part

What flavor was that Capri Sun exactly?

Excellent content ! Thank-You.

Good write up man I am actually a new dodge van owner. I watched your videos before lowering my van and I have to admit, it just takes getting in there and figuring it out to get it done. Videos like this help but we both know that this isn’t for the faint of heart lol. That being said with all my headaches and front suspension basically just not working for my build, wanting to give up at times and just lift the damn thing tbh 😂 I stuck in there tho and I have to let you know that there is a way that I found out to get a good amount of travel space between the control arms back without notching your frame or whatever. But I don’t see anyone saying anything about it and for me it was a game changer and I was able to go pretty low in the front by doing it along with the spacing down the shock the way you did. Got a life saving tip for you one that too btw (try just using some old sockets you have laying around and have a few of that same size, maybe rusted a lil or just don’t really use that size and get two that are the same length, use those for the spacers with the bolt thru them instead of stacking washers) I hope these suggestions make sense. And as for getting the travel back. Take that strut bar mount that comes off of the side of the frame and has that kinda “s” shape to it and move it forward. So it sits on the outside of the big sway bar mount they will end up that they are next to each other it’s tight but it will fit trust me and then mark and drill a single hole for bolt to mount it off the front bolt the other hole doesn’t sit over the lc (suppose you could drill thru the strut rod some new holes that are closer and in different spots if you really wanted but it would be overkill and too much work IMO just the one has been fine for me) and you will have just your sway bar mount and bumpstop in between the arms instead of all three stacked up and that thing is thick so it gives you idk what 2” /2.5” more of travel and you have enough room to trim bumpstop even more and also you can cut down the “sides” of that sway bar mount to make the ride smoother if it does hit your shortened stops it doesn’t go deep into them and still end up metal to metal because that side part that goes up will hit with shorter stops . I can send you some pictures if needed. And I am most likley going to make a video on it so people can have it as an option and be able to have the answer because it was a hassle for me in the process but now rides so good I have all the travel I need the bars still do their thing and it’s honestly the answer I think for lowering these dodge vans. Also I have to add that you will have to cut out your steering stop on the lc, it will be in the way just grind it flat so the bar sits on top and you will also need to cut your brake caliper steering stop protrusion arm shorter I just cut the little nub off it this makes it so that the caliper still contacts the same spot just shorter but contacts the side of the arm instead of the stop on the lc for full lock steering. It works exactly the same and didnt cause me any issues and I don’t see how it could, that’s what will get your turning radius back. Sorry for the long comment but maybe people will see this till I post a video about it and it will for sure help them I know that for sure haha lmk if you have any questions on it and I can email you some pics or something

Did you do a 2.5 Lima swap for a 2.3 Duratec?

I just found out about this literally 5 minutes ago and now I'm looking for a van for my buisness

All that soler stuff when they got a small case soler thing

I got lucky I have the barn doors 😁

i will bet you , the Dodge is worth 5 grand now............

Nice build with your Ranger. What made you want to use the Explorer springs instead of reusing the Ranger springs? I didn't see if you used a flip kit on the rear.

I’m interested in swapping a 3.0 to a 2.3 or 2.5. I’m curious to know why you chose 2.5. I’m going into this build blind and can use the help!

thumbs up for slamming that capri sun

you're saying you run that fridge on solar??! how tf?

Sorry for the noob question. I just recently bought a 1.8 DI mk1 focus. Is it possible to swap it to a duratec 20 or 23 or can you recommend any other engines?

Which year did you do this to? Also was looking into doing this to a b2300 with the 2.3 duratec.

What headers do you use

So did you have to do any fab work to make that explorer rear end work besides swapping the bushings in the leaf spring? And factory ford ranger shocks still fit?

You deserved more views. I bought a 1994 Dodge B350 so I could haul stuff around when I needed to. I never new about Dajiban and that it was the preferred Dajiban van, the 1994 5.9L. It had zero rust except for mild surface rust on the cargo floor in a few areas and the bottom pocket inside the side doors and one rear door needs repaired. It is a 360cc V-8 with 80,100 miles, 500 of which are mine. I had a Dodge dealer service center change the transmission filter, tightened up some screws, cleaned off the transmission debris magnet and whatever. The differential had all new bearings put in. The gears were perfectly fine and aligned. All 4 bearing rattled but 4 wrongs made a right and the gears stayed centered. New front calipers and brake pads, new rear wheel cylinders, brake pads and all new brake lines. New serpentine belt, oil and oil filter change and all new Dodge recommended tires. The repair manual states you can load 3400 pounds in it (12 passenger van but seats removed). It has a hitch and it can tow 9000+ pounds. The hitch is rated for 10,000. Mine is also white like yours. I bought it for $2000 because it was basically rust free. The undercarriage is spotless. And it was low milage and ran like a well oiled machine. I new the differential was noisy and would need work. I am keeping it stock for a cargo van life but I will do some cosmetic things. I want to paint it a pastel color of yellow or blue or red like some of the ones in Japan. I can't decide yet. I am going to add a spoiler and put some stickers on it. I am going to paint DAJIBAN on the sides somewhere. I am going to get some Moon Equipment like mooneyes and some ratfink stickers. I can't believe I lucked into Dajiban. Thanks for your videos. I know you had a bad ending to Dajiban and am sad for you. However, you rebounded with an awesome truck.