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Thank you so much, easy like Sunday morning, I did it 🎉🎉🎉

I just bought a new car and the oil filter is on there super tight! It's just like this

I have found it way easier that when you got to take out the whole air intake don’t take off the hose clamps take the filter lid off and filter out then take the wing nut or on mine it’s a 13 mm nut right beside the one you took out to take the vortec box out and lift up on the back of that vortec box and take off the 2 electrical connectors and vent hose slides off then the whole thing comes out in one piece

Thank god for whoever y’all are. I was about to be fucking stuck until I saw this. You guys are fucking awesome

I had to use a metal fastener remover because I was at angle and the bend in the tool made it the perfect candidate.

It's it still holding up?

Sounds the same

It might be something with the ABS is what my friend said. It happened after doing the tire rotation on hers.

Thanks mate!

I have a 2017 Chevy impala, they have placed a metal shield that will cut your hands and block any tools you try to use on your oil filter, it is a real pain in the ass and I do not understand why they have placed it right there. So anyway I have a stuck oil filter and very few ways to get it off, what a pain in the ass.

Thanks for the tip! I used this technique to replace the oil filter in my 2008 Ford Escape

✌️😎🙂

Hell yeah bro I almost gave up on my first oil change cause of this 😂 was about to take it to jiffy lube but that Jesus I came across this video bro thanks!

My 2018 sentra put ot in drive mode wont drive but it will reverse

Am getting mad at the used car I bought.. after driving it for a month,it slips to neutral when driving it.its a Toyota auris semi automatic 07. I changed the fluid and it was normal. After some days , it happened again. I will need to off and on the car before it will engage again in the middle of the road. Am Even scared to drive it now. I took it to the mechanic and he checked and said he can't find anything 😢 that I should keep on driving it and if it occurs again I should bring it back...can lucas do d job?

thanks needed that info

This was a great and useful video, thanks for the help

I'm having that right now, the mechanics can't find the problem, since the issue is intermittent. All the 3 times I brought it in, he said the car was fine. This time I filmed, but after reading all the comments, It could be a number of possible issues, I'm not sure if I feel like spending the money, might just junk the car. Here's the video for those who want to see the codes it has thrown. ruclips.net/user/shortsP6U9gxuF_XQ?si=DFGN-R0kVqi5pIq_

I'm looking to buy a Class A one is a 2019 with the V10 and the other is the 7.3 V8 I'm leaning towards the V10 it only has 28k miles and $15 k less then the 7.3? What engine is more reliable?

That's not true, dull, exhaus........ Yours coming down from 2 headers into one pipe, then out the back ass 2. That is not true, duels off.

Thanks for the help!

Try the wrench and rope method.

Good luck getting that flange apart in the future. When you seen it was missing a nut, why did you not just buy a new gasket and tighten them all down in sequence and be done with it?

I did this on a 97 Camry with the stock exhaust (in Canada, rust like crazy). The tubing, resonator, muffler and cat body are all high grade stainless but the flanges are carbon steel. Only the flanges had rust damage, I used a drill and wire wheel to get most of the rusted stuff out, put on JB Weld into the cracks and crevices of the flanges, let it cure and then used aluminum tape to seal over the cement (to hold it in place from vibrations, etc.) Works like a charm until I replace the flanges.

Should have listed the parts list and a better view of the front would have been nice

How bro nicer truck than me but only $10 to his name 😂

Horrible video

Thanks for the video. I've got a story to add. Followed all the normal steps (oil filter wrench, friction wrench, oiling up the seal, driving the screwdriver into it and cranking on that... only got it to budge a tiny amount. Tried a chisel on the inner lip. Would not move. The access was small so after one or two different holes with the screwdriver all the way through, the metal just started to tear apart and no place to work on it. Next up? I took the oil filter wrench (cap) and drilled holes around the sides and the top and hammered the wrench onto the top of what was left of the oil filter, then attached it with several sheet metal screws, making sure to hit solid metal. Attach a 2 foot breaker bar and I was finally able to get it going. No sign of corrosion, all I can think is it was put on dry with no lubricant. Don't know, but it was a worse case scenario.

Mine, one nut under condenser it all comes off then easily remove screws....

gonna try this.........give a hard time....holy shit........it give me frustration

Get a rubber band and wrap it around it. This will increase the grip and hopefully gets it off

Too cheap to just go get an oil filter 90degree strap wrench? You’re welcome to borrow mine. Works flawlessly.

Need help. Long read ahead. I have a 1988 Honda Civic EF 1.3 automatic. I got the transmission changed in May last year because the previous transmission wasn't engaging from the 2nd gear to the 3rd gear. The new (second hand) transmission was fine then it started to show some lag when put in 'drive' (when the engine was cold). I was using the original Honda Transmission Fluid. Slowly that problem got worse and I'd have to keep the car running for about 10 minutes early in the morning and only then 'drive' will respond. I was advised by a local mechanic to change to Amsoil Transmission fluid as he mentioned it has additives and I did. A) First Amsoil Transmission fluid change. It showed improvements like the 'drive' gear engaging right after I started up the car but it would only coast in drive, stepping on the accelerator didn't have any response. I'd have to warm up the engine for maybe 3-4 minutes and would be able to drive off with no issues. I noticed with each passing week, I'd have to warm up the engine longer for the drive gear to engage. The problem came back in full swing after 3 months with newer symptoms. After warming up for about 10 minutes and driving off, the engine would have to rev up to 3k or even 4k in a very struggling manner and it would sound as though the engine has to work way harder to get from the first gear to the second gear. But once at operating temperature, the transmission works just fine and smooth but it would slip sometimes. This new symptom showed up after having driven the car for about 5k miles since the Amsoil Transmission fluid change. B) Second Amsoil Transmission fluid change. So I changed the fluid again and things got better than they were towards the end of 5k mileage of the first Amsoil fluid change. I drove another 5k miles and have another new symptom. The reverse gear won't engage when the engine is cold. So I'd have to keep the engine running for about 5 minutes for the reverse gear to engage and about 10 minutes for drive gear to engage with the current trans fluid. But, in order for first to second gear to shift smoothly, id have to run the engine for about 15 minutes (reach operating temperature). 15 minutes does the trick and the car runs just fine the whole day (absolutely smooth like a new car I'd say). But if I leave the car parked for a few hours, I'd have to run the engine for about 2-3 minutes for the gears to engage. This is the current situation I'm in. So basically I have three problems: 1) Drive gear won't engage if car isn't warmed up. 2) First gear going into second struggles a lot if not sufficiently warmed up. 3) Reverse gear won't engage if the engine is not warmed up for 5 minutes. My question is: Would Lucas Transmission Fix be effective in helping me with this issue if I were to just top it up with current Amsoil Transmission fluid? Any help that comes my way is very much appreciated. It's the only car I have and I absolutely love this car. Thank you so much.

What exactly your truck was doing that made you change the ignition coil?

Can a bad spout connector cause engine timing to be off and also cause really bad rough idle?

Can a bad spout connector cause engine timing to be off and also cause really bad rough idle?

How in tf did you get the hose at 3:07 off?!? I can’t get to it to save my life

Hey get your shit together kid

You save me bro

Yow dude im tryin to lift my s-10 but im a little worried about the steering column. You think it would work tho?

This is how you DONT do this

Thats soo smart

Donde los puedo comprar!?

they really put that under everything 😂😂

Key is to poke a hole through both ends 1 hole isn’t enough

This is it, hopefully I don't damage anything, this is my second time doing the oil change... May have not lubricated it enough or waited too long... Will be back in 20 with the results 🤞🏾

thanks man

Found that one or more of your spark plugs was partially immersed in oil? Should have replaced the valve cover and spark plug well gaskets while you had the manifold off. This leakage into the spark plug wells will only get worse with time.

This video was a life saver!! ❤

@engine buzz I know it’s been a while but do you remember what kind of code was this throwing?