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Thank you I appreciate your comments! Next weeks video will be on replacing the high side fan switch that was hard to see located in the compressor. They no longer make the switch for the 84 and you have to update the 1 wire switch to a 2 wire switch. Hopefully you will enjoy it. Yes the 84 is the only year that uses that heater pipe setup in 85 they went to TPI and that pipe changed so the 84 pipe is extremely hard to find.

Sorry, Ya you have to turn it up. It did record on a lower volume. Thanks for watching.

Thank you, I appreciate you watching!

Thank you, I appreciate you watching and your kind words!

Sorry you didn't like it it was one of my first videos but if you watched it until the end you saw where all the bolts went, so I don't know what needed to be explained. and I'm a mechanic not a film maker. I think my later videos do get better but yes the first several sucked.

A couple minutes before oil came out of every pushrod. My drill was in low gear with the trigger fully depressed. Thanks for watching!

@@84c4corvetteguy5 Yeah I got it to work. Nice little tool. The oil should be primed until I get to start it right? Like if a few days goes by before I get it ready to start?

@@mikeworkman3593 A few days is fine without a prime. Yes the light should go out and then add 15 seconds to get the oil to the top of the pushrods. If you take the engine apart or it has been sitting for a long time I would recommend priming the system. In my case the engine was apart doing head gaskets and rear main seal so the oil pump had to be removed so I thought it would be good to re-prime the system. Thanks for watching!

Ya I'm sorry the first several videos I did really suck. 🤣 but I think the later videos I started getting better at it, and started to figure out how to edit and camera angles, Still not great though but I hope people can still get something out of them. Thanks for watching!

@@84c4corvetteguy5 Ok, so idk if you'll reply again lol. Wish I had you phone number. I have an 84, it's is near mint shape, esp the interior. Well This was my second one. The first one was obviously tampered with, and had loads of power(but it was pretty beat up). This one is totally stock. I happen to have the funds to redo the engine. At first I was going to keep the crossfire setup, but they don't make that renegade intake anymore, and that stock setup is only like 450cfm I think. I really wanted to max it out, so I went ahead and got carried away lol. I have aluminum brodix heads, 64cc 2.02 1.60, aces high wild card(I think) fuel system with the full distributer and ign coil, stainless headers with 1.75 tubes and 3" duals open all the way back and xpipe, summit roller cam stage 4 ls timing, new w/p and p/s pump. eldebrock performer intake. Sure I'm missing stuff. anyways, I could find anything exactly what specs I should put things. I made the gap .035 and did 3/4 turn on the rockers(1.6 roller tips). Oh reminds me I need to check the rockers on the valve stems, make sure the new push rods are the right length( they seemed like 0.05 too long when measured). Working of getting it together, down to the little things, wiring and plumbing new hoses. The throttle cables seem like a pain(get 3 diff brackets from amazon, just saving for last lol, I got frustrated with it). Have to swap out the fuel pump with a higher psi unit. Using the original fuel lines. I'm thinking I should be at least 450hp. Its a pretty big cam. Wondering if I'll have issues with the dana??

I meant I couldn't find the specs, does that seem right .035 and 3/4 turn? Maybe I should call aces about the gap, but idk about the rockers? might have to just run it. but I found an old timer on yt and said to make it 3/4. I saw you did it a full turn, but that was oem parts?

@@84c4corvetteguy5 Oh also, I have no idea where in the hell to put this ign coil. It's huge. It didn't come with any bracket at all. I found a spot for the ecm, rh of the ac box on the support bar. Someone made a suggestion on a 20yr old forum to mount one above the battery, but they must have removed the cruise control. I'd like to keep that thing working(hopefully it works without the tps) Oh btw do you know how the lockup fully worked on an 84, I cant find anything specific on it. I hear it uses the MAP and maybe the TPS. The tps will be gone, but I'll leave the map connected just in case. This aces system doesn't have a wot output wire like the Holley TB does. But I heard the aces system is supposed to e better(plus it comes ready for 650hp, and the Holley only has like 30lb inj in it, you have to upgrade and stuff. The aces comes stock with 100lb inj). worse case I have to get an aftermarket kit, or I just wire in a LU on switch for the highway

@@mikeworkman3593 It all sounds good on a stock application but I don't know what the adjustments would be with aftermarket heads and pushrods of a different length. I would probably open the plugs to.045 thats what they were originally but a bulliton came out to close them to .035 But with the extra fuel I would open them back up and put in a better Ign. coil. As far as the rear you have a Dana 36 in all 84 models and I believe it will hold up to 450hp Only one way to find out 🤣 Jaysinon@gmail.com

Sorry, I'm a mechanic not a film maker. But I'm trying.

Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!

Thank you and thanks for watching! Ya number 8 is the hard one because of the HVAC box being right in the way. I use a very short spark plug that I can put a wrench on sometimes I get a ratchet down there and sometimes I loosen it with a wrench. This is not the exact socket I have but it's the general idea. www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Spark-Plug-Socket-Accessories/dp/B0CZMKN1RG/ref=asc_df_B0CZMKN1RG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693747049168&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13264754159421081327&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009963&hvtargid=pla-2314904806526&mcid=ed04f4c48b523d608acd20727791cf5a&gad_source=1&th=1 Reply

Thanks Buddy! I appreciate you watching my videos. I really need to stop by the school and see you guys!

No it's not. All the parts numbers start around the 7 and 1/2 minute mark at the end of the video. Thanks for watching.

That was my symptom too, You had to push the lock button 3 times before it would completely unlock the door. The actuators just get lazy with age. Thanks for watching!

Glad you liked it. We are not far apart at all I'm right in Troutman area. I would be happy to look at it for you. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Interesting, I heard about that. Thanks for watching.

Yep, She already got rid of it Said it handled horrible.🤣I said it's a Jeep that's how they handle.

3M Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. Thanks for watching!

Thanks Mike! I really appreciate you watching and liking my videos! I'm glad people are getting something out of them. I hope everybody see's next weeks video, a Night Rider car came to my house for a adjustment it was very cool.

These are all factory settings done by the manual. Thanks for watching!

I don't recommend putting any type of sealer under the TBI units. I put a little Honda bond (RTV) around the water jackets on the lower intake and the upper intake plate I like using Indian head Shellac compound on both side of that gasket and I also use thread sealant on the lower bolts. Thanks for watching! here is a video on how I do it. I hope this helps. ruclips.net/video/yPXmBMzxOac/видео.html

It likes to leak between the upper and lower intake manifold also check all vacuum lines. Thanks again for watching!

Sounds like a good idea. I'm just used to doing it the other way and never really had a problem. Thanks for watching!

It would be nice to have the channel grow, however I'm not putting money into the channel. I do this just so some people might be able to learn something.

A lot of people did. I think it was the first big step into electronics and not a lot of people new how to work on them or fix them so they took them off and put carburetors on them. They did the same thing to the C1 and C2 Corvettes with mechanical fuel injection very few understood them so they got switched out to carburetors. Now they are paying a small fortune for those old mechanical injection systems. Thanks for watching!

It does match the hole in the hood if you look close at the video you can even see the dirt ring left by the hood around the three circles that I drilled. Is it the same size opening, no I didn't feel the need for an exact fit I just wanted cold air to come into the opening. So I guess I don't understand why you say that?

@@84c4corvetteguy5 sorry. Mine is an ‘84

Any idea for this year?

@@floridafishing Then yours should be the same as the video. Are you saying it does not?

@@floridafishing 1984 is the only year C4 that uses hood scoops 1985 and up uses a different hood with no openings.

It does not look like mine on the later cars it has more than 1 wire but it should be right around the oil filter area. Here is a picture of what yours look like. Thanks for watching! www.zip-corvette.com/90-96-oil-temperature-sender.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5Ky1BhAgEiwA5jGujkOo0qb4Z4O-Zg259zBLyQn182rrePOE7byF2WLl7NNjqqqlV9YkkRoCn10QAvD_BwE

Ya, the intake manifold is very restrictive. I was told the intake passages were so small because they were trying to get a lag/dead spot out of the rpm range by increasing the air speed into the cylinders. Thanks for watching!

Great Cars! Thank for watching!

I working on trying to make them better, I appreciate you watching!

@@84c4corvetteguy5 great content! Keeping these beautiful cars running is a work of art!!! Editing and filming content is difficult!

@@JuanRodriguez-yl9oq So true my friend! I look back at some of my videos and go well that really sucked, but I'm not shooting it again🤣

Have you ruled out open cell in battery, tight power connections, cables in good condition?

@@micahcastillo9113 Yes I did. I spent a half of a day checking and ohming out the wiring from the ECM to all the different component's. Turned out to be multiple problems with the throttle body's they were put together wrong so it had low fuel pressure. One of the new injectors worked but I don't think it was the correct application for that car causing half the engine to lean out and finally after getting it to run on all 8 cylinders the idle was high it took 6 IAC valves before getting 2 that would work and let it properly idle under 1500RPM. Thanks for watching!

Thanks Mike! Unfortunately yes, it will take more time and a little more trial and error without the tool, But at least it came still be done fairly easily.

I've looked for that tool as well as the IAC block off tools and cant find either. I guess they stopped making them several years ago. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! Here's the link. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09WXNJHJ3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes, You can update the system to R134a you need a kit to retrofit the R12 valves to R134a valves which cost very little. I would also change the accumulator at the same time. R12 uses Mineral oil and R134 uses PAG oil when you change everything over add Ester oil with UV and it will mix with the Mineral oil left in the system and the R134. You cant put PAG and Mineral oil in the same system those don't play well together and you don't want to use anymore Mineral oil with the R134a. Also vacuum out the system real good to get the moisture out before you charge it this also helps suck in the Ester oil before you add R134 or you can add the oil to the inlet side (closest to the evaporator) of the new accumulator VERY IMPORTANT DO NOT PUT THE OIL IN THE OUTLET SIDE (going back to the compressor) AS IT WILL SLUG THE COMPRESSOR AND RUIN IT! I hope this helps!

Can you take a picture or a video of what your talking about and maybe I can help you.

@@84c4corvetteguy5 I appreciate your help, but I’m not sure how to post a picture. I think I did, but I don’t see it on here. Haha 😂

@@gregmatherne7173 send it to jaysinon@gmail.com

Sorry bad video I'm trying. Put one bushing in the control arm, Then send the shaft through the control arm side without a bushing the shaft must go in big washer side first install the big washer after you have sent it through the control arm. Now slide the small washer onto the shaft and install the bushing then add the sleeve and tighten the nuts add locktite. Thanks for watching! It was one of the first videos I shot some of my later stuff is better.

Ya, they really aren't bad at all. Thanks for watching! Hopefully you have subscribed because I have 3 more coming out in the next couple seeks on how to finish the process. Reply

I thought it really looked good too. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Glad it helped. Thanks for watching my channel!

Thank you! I will try to put a video together for you in the next month, I'm working on a couple other things right now but I will definitely do it for you. Thanks for watching my channel!

Just posted an a/c video for you I hope it helps.

Sorry bad video I'm trying. Put one bushing in the control arm, Then send the shaft through the control arm side without a bushing the shaft must go in big washer side first install the big washer after you have sent it through the control arm. Now slide the small washer onto the shaft and install the bushing then add the sleeve and tighten the nuts add locktite. Thanks for watching! It was one of the first videos I shot some of my later stuff is better.

Thanks, I appreciate you watching!

🤣 Thanks for watching!

Thanks, Mike I appreciate you watching my videos! I always liked watching yours.

@@84c4corvetteguy5 Thanks!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Ya, depending on what color car you have some look better with the Bronze and some look better with the Blue tint and of course I think they all look good with the color match fiberglass top. That sucks having it stolen! Thanks for watching!