Видео

I've watched 3 of your videos this morning the cd conversion taillight Inthe gards van and inter city coaches nice info thanks Patrick Quinn IRL

So, this is from the 90's. It's OO and not HO then? I just picked up the HO one from the early 70's with the continental couplings plus coaches. Still runs well and looks nice though next to OO stock a bit diminutive!

What a beast. I saw my first 60 last week in the metal, I wasn't sure I'd ever get to see one - it made the ground shake. Awesome bit of kit.

Hi I'm not one of those heroes who break something down behind the computer screen, but I want to give you some tips on figure painting, I don't know how I can send you some photos of the results that I get with figure painting, and how far you want to go. The canvas, or the figures them self, you can't go wrong with Modelu, very big range, these are real people scanned in, and 3D printed, but comes with a prise, specially if you need a crowd. But there are also others, like the white metal casted victorian and Edwardian figures from AC Stadden, these are sculpted and are top quality, but they are era related and maybe not the thing you want. But on a budget figures from Dapol are a golden oldie. The base cote or primer, try to start from a black underground, reason for this, is that the darkest shadows lies in deepest fold, and when you build up layers, that will play into your advantage. The first parts you start to paint is how you would put close on, so skin first, shirt, jacket and finely tool or suitcase etc.. A trick finding the deepest shadows, hold your figure under a lamp, and the ligtest to the deepest shadows reveal them self Paints to use, I often see people working with enamel paint, oil paint etc, if you don't care about your health, go ahead, but something tells me that for the most of us health comes first, so leave all these toxic products from your work bench, and work with water based paints and acryl inks. If you have to do a lot of figures, that often bring the extra dimension to your layout, it's worth while to invest in proper figure paints. For base coats and washes I use common art materials, aryl black spray can and acrylic inks, don't use common inks, they must be acrylic inks, the color intensity is 10x better. The paint itself, I've invested in the Andrea color paints specially made for figures. Each color comes in a set, and consists out of 6 shades, a base, dark shades and light shades. you first build up from the base to the darkest shade and than to the lightest shades. These paints are not cheap but last you a life time, I've been using my sets for more than 15 years now, these paints stay good and last you for a few hundred figures. For super detailing you can used watercolor pencils, these look like your normal color pencil, but when the color is made wet, it's paint. The advantage is that you can use them dry, wash them out with a wet brush, made wet according the moisture smeer them to water paint. These are sold as art product from Derwent or specially for modeling from AK, prices wise there is no difference, buying a set is advisable, but you can buy all pencils separate. Also pigment dust can be used, let say you have a steam engine crew, to imitate the coal dust, this stuf is perfect. Perhaps this might give you an other inside to painting figure, good luck with you project…

Interesting. First the heave, and then it looked like a stall but it heaved again, and he was on his way

The Bachmann axles have a black coating if you take one wheel off then rub the black off with wet and dry sand paper

I find trying to melt the varnish off some of the copper wires attached to the lamp difficult it ends up going black and brittle and breaks off

I was somewhat disappointed in that the "build" did not include the underframe. I am building some Dogfish and Catfish wagons. Being used to North American kits, I find this kit is lacking in any interlocking pieces for a good fit of the parts before you glue them in place. The underframe is woefully inadequate for any kind of mating of the sides and ends before gluing.

Nice catch , we use to have Theale tanks working out of Lindsey (IMM) years ago when I worked for DB

Nice bit kit bashing here🔧👌👍

GRAFFITI....? Really....? Why are we modelling graffiti....? A blot on the railway scene.... Just because half-wits spoil our railway scene doesn't mean we should then re-produce it in our models.... James Hennighan Yorkshire, England

Sad End ,, 😢😢😢

It would be nice in my opinion if cavalex could supply a simulated steel load with the wagon too, say some steel plates or coils, that would really set the wagon off nicely.

Love the comments about the noise and 'epic' nature. Obviously, commentators know nothing of how a 60 demolishes any competition for starting a heavy train, the computer out foxes anything GM and GE have. Still the best and most efficient.

Great video, my neighbours loved it. Thanks for the share.

Awsome😊

Er what noise 😂.ive heard louder milk floats !they were fitted with very large exhaust silencer which killed 90%of the sound .if you want an idea what they really sound like the 37901-4were fitted with a 8 cyl version of this merlees engine and the silencing was removed

Was okay. Hardly epic 🤷🏻‍♂️

Doesn't have that amazing scream of a 56 or the rumble of a 68 it also doesn't give the same sense of power as a 70 so pretty good but not the best

I do love the rumble and the chug of the Class 60's.

Just found this great review on the TEA tanks, as I'm looking to get a rake from Revolutions 2nd run. One question if I may. In the review you showed a decal sheet to renumber the wagons or add further info detail. Are the decal sheets the SAME in both the EWS version and VTG red version or are they different? Thanks again for an excellent review.

Compared to other British diesels like the 37 and 47, the 60 isn't very loud when accelerating but it does have a cool menacing rumble to it.

why is the branding taken off(first Great Western)/

Proper reporting headcode for the Margam to Theale loaded tanks is 6A11 if you wanted to change your caption

Slippy Slippy!

Thay actualy ran a class 221 from Aberdeen to Penzance ?.

Gracias por su tiempo y subir este vídeo; les quiero compartir mi experiencia con estos motores de 6 voltios, que los puse a dos locomotoras Lima, pero estos motores son de otra procedencia, les puse una tira arrollada con varias vueltas de lámina de plomo de 1.5 mm de grosor y al ancho de la montura para el motor hecha por Lima y mide poco menos de 1cm de ancho y con esta tira arrollada alrededor del nuevo motor se auto centra, además le da un poco más lastre o peso a esa parte motríz. Aunque les digo se debe trabajar un poco más, porque las locomotoras Lima siempre por su diseño económico, pues carecen de contactos en las ruedas como el caso de las que están en el otro truck, y para eso le puse contactos hechos con bronce fosforado, sin conexión de cable que atraviese el chasis, con un arreglo algo complicado de decir aquí y que ayudan en buena medida a que la locomotora nos se pare así no más. Saludo desde Costa Rica.

What a waste

Loco has wrong number for build series . 8H22 is a headcode for coal trains out of Radyr Yard . This model has wrong bogies on it . Looks like class 47's older models had class 31 bogies

🚂👍

I admire this type of modelling. Much more absorbing than being reliant on the high levels of detail on modern RTR. I hope you don't mind a little advice. I would straighten the wire for handrails first by using 2 pairs of pliers one at each end and pulling the wire straight. Or use a vice to hold the wire at one end. Itll make life much easier.

Very impressive and helpful - thanks for sharing.

Is that a red class 47

Hi mate how's your layout coming alone haven't seen anything in agies hope your well

56090 was the first 56 i saw aswell

Those are just gorgeous!

How odd, I was literally just thinking about your old layout yesterday!

So sad, but they had a good life. In future new builds, I'd definitely be up for a design that is thoroughly modernised underneath but the exteriour designed to look exactly like our cherished HSTs.

Great video with a hint of sadness at the end.

Great video mate thanks for sharing some good rolling stock you have captured 👍 look forward to seeing what you have been upto on the layout.

Truly sad to see those steeds off to the knackers yard.

All good things come to an end, thanks for uploading. Have I missed an announcement with the layout as there hasn't been a video in some time?

Shame to see the ol girls go to scrap but guess all good things come to an end and they certainly served the railways well. I wonder how gutted they were inside of components.

some great footage there

Great set of trains, but sad to see the old-timers off to the knackers. Enjoyed the video!!

Sad.. Great servants..

😞 𝕡𝐫ｏ𝕄ｏ𝔰𝓶

I think just painting the yellow cab ends & adding wire handrails makes a world of difference! Better body moulding then the modern Hornby model and not made in China (unless you have the Hornby Railroad model)...

I think this system of getting old bangers going again is 1 of the best is idea's i have ever seen and gives me more of a chance to resurect some of the most worst worn out motors due to me buying them cheap second hand. Good tip for anyone wanting to find cd motor replacements motorwise is pulling down old computer printers as they have 4 can motors and the cannon printers have the round barrel type can motors that go into the flying scotsman type of motor and they have the tiny screws holdin the motor to there original brackets in the printer as well. The other cannon printers have the can motors like you are showing there now on your video and most work quite well .. (its best to test them before using them)... Anyhoo keep the good work and gr8 video there mate and thanks for the education. Cheers from John in Australia

Nice video and thanks for sharing. Dave