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Very Cool, Btw Where Did You Get This Screen From?

Just found your channel and subscribed. Nice video

It’s a water or steam cooled tube

I have had this machine, with an additional milling device, stored without use for 20 years; I remembered this and decided to start using it, but came across this review and almost decided to get rid of it. Fortunately, I read the comments and realized that the machine is not so bad, and that I could have made a mistake..

I realize that this is a bit late but I’m in the process of purchasing a hp606a …. I’ve enjoyed quite a few of these older videos .

My gosh that flea market is crazy cool , I need to get there !!

So judging by the diodes it was 15kv to the tube ? That seems like not that much voltage

Oh brother !!! Such a great find right there !! That thing looks so beefy

Lucky man

Thanks for this review. Not a whole lot of independent reviews of this on RUclips.

I got one of this HP months ago. The display was very dim caused by one of the tantalum capacitors in the front panel pcb.

I’ve got one of these machines, along with several full size lathes, and I love it for small work. The tailstock is a little to light duty for my taste, but the rest of the machine is great if you ask me.

To clean, do not use a rag, use toilet paper.

I came to the same conclusion that these are really nice power supplies, especially for the price on ebay, Though whether they work or not seems to have no relation to what the sellers seem to claim since they rarely know how to test them properly. I'm in the process of verifying, calibrating and repairing my small collection. The really nice thing about them is the fast transient responses and designed for testing mobile devices that need to pull current in pulses. A "poor man's SMU" as discussed on a popular forum. They are based on the 6611C/6612C power supplies that were not designed for the mobile pulses that did have the binding posts. The original 66312A did have the binding posts, but more importantly it has schematics for the main board in its service manual. It had the same 20V/2A specs as the 6612 it is based on. I bought one just so I had a version with schematics. The 663xxB/D models don't have the binding posts but are 45W 15V/3A supplies. D models just have a built in digital volt meter. It is easier to find the D models but since this can only measure one channel at a time the additional DVM is of limited use. 66309B/D has two output 66311B/D has one output 66319B/D has two outputs with battery emulation ,even faster transient response and datalogging 66321B/D has one output with battery emulation ,even faster transient response and datalogging

What a comically large CRT

You cant believe how scared you make me while you are handeling vacuum tubes like scrap and just throwing them all over the place

7:40 unless it turned all white the tube is good, the white spots at the edges happen in most tubes after some long use or even from the factory when they seal the tube up.

The GU-81M is a pentode not a tetrode

19:32 thats a mercury thyratron, i think. those are droplets of mercury

Can't watch any further. And, waving pencil back and forth and back and forth and back and forth and up and down. Farr-King Stupid !

Really enjoyed watching your videos when they came out, hope youre doing alright mate

Thank you for showing these interesting devices. I got one of those B&K Potentiometers as well. Now I finally know what it is used for.

some 'old classic' gear on your bench...

PTB...You mean the German standards guys, in Braunschweig?

Use the TV.

I have already seen a video from a person who hunts for Soviet devices (including household or musical electronics and military incomprehensible units, everything in a row). It’s quite interesting how he studies them and brings them to life. It was a surprise that all Soviet household appliances are equipped with service instructions and detailed diagrams. This was the order under the USSR, it turns out.

Great video! What model number is this unit that is in your video? Thank you.

Это не просто порнография , это комплексная порнография с извращениями в духе Европейских ценностей😂😂😂

Guy is clueless, buy chip breaker inserts if you don’t want stringy chips.

It seems home license is not anymore available.

Holy Moly the surface finish on the stainless part with a 1 mm cut is pretty decent. We have a Wabeco D2400 at work (small lathe from Germany) and it wouldn't cut stainless this smooth.

What does it do😮

Some info I can provide is that the PCB you show at 1:08:13, there is a stamp with "MEO" written on it. It is a hungarian short for "Minőségellenőrzési Osztály" Which is the quality control dept. On soviet made goods, there is the "OTK" stamp which stands for the same meaning. The back side of the pcb shows latin letters with the addition of "Gy" which is confirming the hungarian origin of the PCB. The components are mixed, you can see soviet made brown resistors, the ceramic surface mounted ones too, but the PCB itself must've been designed and made in Hungary.

Hey man, these videos were nice to watch. You find some cool stuff from flea markets. I also love weird old electronic stuff yet I usually only find cheap garbage. I hope you doing fine and continue this series.

How do you usualy reinstall the os on this thing if you break something Does hp provide some recovery floppies?

RUclips should require every video to include a cat.

During the USB stick Fatal System Error @57:39, I notice the 7510 is running FWRev 1.06.70d. The latest FWRev is 1.7.10. Have any/all of the issues you bring up in this video been resolved by the many FW Revisions between 1.06.70d and 1.7.10? I’m considering purchasing a lightly used (by private party) unit for $1,300 and am wondering if overall that would be a good deal.

Hi, I purchased the FF230 Mill recently but I am not able to fit the mill bits that are less than 6mm. I am trying to purchase the standard ER collets - please can you advise which size ER collet will fit into the stock nut of the FF230? It's a bit confusing for me. I am wondering if I need to change the stock nut to the ER one as well.

Just finished watching this video, I love the comprehensive explanation starting from the CRT tube itself! If you don't mind some feedback: It's probably just me with a very short attention span, but I would like it if the videos were a little more concise - not in terms of video length, but maybe move things slightly quicker with prepared demos, if you get what I mean? Something like what W2AEW does.

Thank you very much for the review. I'm myself about to buy one. I will pay extra attention to the ways. There is something I don't understand you seem to check the rigigity relative to the tray, but isn't the tray made out of sheet metal flexible by itself ? Also from your review I think I understand why you would have wanted to go with a chinese lathe from the start. You mention you have a lathe at work, do you know how much that one costs, I would be curious, thanks. I remember when I started looking for a lathe, I wanted a Schaublin, I had no idea how expensive those machines are ^^

Awesome video; I've just picked up a 13LO16A too, with the view to one day making it into a clock display piece. I'd be very interested if you were also doing the same + willing to share your progress. Keep up the good work!

Very interesting. Yes, not seen such a software. I will play with it…

The light stuff is definitely cool, makes it intuitive to understand. Every kids class PC should have it.

Another great piece of equipment! Do you have any plans to upgrade/improve the analog front-end? I suspect it's very similar to the LNA you have(SR-830? - I cant remember) and can be improved in the same way. Yay differential JFETs!

Really cool bit of gear, fun to watch it settle out. CRT looks really clear! Does it have much burn in?

I just acquired one exactly like yours. Haven't had time to tinker with it yet, but I will!

Just a note on the explozimetru, the 2.4V NiCad is 2 cells as a single NiCd is 1.2V