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It may work (and that is the most important thing) but stretching a spring past yield in order to get a longer relaxed length is never the correct solution. I would expect you to have the same problem again in the future. I hope not but I think you will. Everlast needs to spec out the correct springs in the first place.

Build yourself a clamp type knurling tool and it will be a lot easier on your South Bend

Good idea!

Oh man, doesn't anybody make a mechanical lock that just fits in with no welding, cutting or modifications..? It sure seems like there would be.

| …would you consider selling it?

As a journeyman machinist I think you did a great job with this video. To me the hardest part is usually how the work will be held down or fixtured for machining! Much better and more accurate than leaving the axle on and using a cheap plastic pattern with a hand drill.

Any idea where I can get plastics?

This is exactly what I have and need to do. Mine had a slightly different lock solenoid that I couldn’t find anywhere. Looks like i need angle iron and some welding. Thanks for the video.

4:20 "LET'S CALL RYAN"

I'm looking to change my tool holder assembly on my SB lathe (exactly as yours) and found your video to be most helpful! Thanks!

I did this conversion. One piece of advice is dry ice on the outside and when you weld your mounts you greatly reduce the damage to the paint.

I have a cannon gun safe that I bought from tractor supply a couple of years ago. I worry about an EMP attack so I want to switch it to a mechanical combination. Where did you buy that combination kit?

Anyone know how much this conversion would cost?

i am doing this tomorrow at my job !! its gonna be first time doing this type of conversion !!! with me luck

Just did my cannon safe same way. Easy

Typical example of manufacturer using non-standard construction (lock or locking element is not standard), so swap-out requires a lot of work to refit instead of just swapping a lock to another. The other issue with this install is that now the locking bolt takes sideways forces which it wasn't designed for and will fail. The right way would be to weld a solid post behind the bolt, so that the lockin mechanism butts up against the bolt which butts up against the welded post, thus not transferring any loads to the lock body, being much more secure and rigid.

Oh wow what an absolute classic

How much gears are there

I regret buying digital

I had an Everlast 250 EX that the gas solenoid stopped working after sitting in my shop over the winter. I got a new solenoid from Everlast and it still wasn't working. Turns out if was not getting power. I traced the wires to the board on top and was controlled by a tiny blue square thingy. I took it to an electronic expert (he says) and it did get it to function but the repair did not last but a few minutes. I was able to sell the machine to someone who was "sure" that they could fix it. I doubt it ever worked properly again.

Yea.. yea. I had one those.. best bike I ever rode.

That engine would fit in my suzuki pv and it would be crazy

You bought a cheap ass safe and wonder why the lock fails? Spend some real money on a safe . The safe I own I’ve had for more than 20 years and the digital lock has never once failed .

You could also center drill all the holes then just drill with drill bits as needed!

I agree like the old school dial combo much better; however, my skills do not go that far. Especially a welder.

an EMP could be a problem. I know. You think I'm crazy, right?

Nice work Only thing that I do differently is to add a relocker

A little faux rust here and there would have been nice. A root beer color as the first color after a primer then your.primdr again and finishing with spraying your primary color looks pretty darn real after it's hit with the sand paper. When sanded down exposing the primer and a little further here and there exposing the root beer color with some of the primer color circumfering the root beer looks pretty darn reel especially on sharp edges and tops of fender , tank etc.

I changed mine too. ruclips.net/video/ZK2Tx3oSXOs/видео.htmlsi=dzb6sFo4Phputf_c

I like the z50😊

Had a DS80z and it was a little monster. Rode it from age 8-16.

Damn that thing rips!

Dang i wish i had a metal work buddy that could teach me around a metal shop.

I had this in 1979 Christmas

How are you liking those Everlast machines? I have the 255 EXT and so far I love it :) Thanks for the info!

Yeah. I have been really disappointed in a bunch of factory welds I have seen on supposedly "Rugged" rigs. How do you like the Everlast? Thank you for your time :)

Fun Fun Fun :)

Really nice work! Thank you for the share of your skills! I do so hope that you will post more vids!

My powertig 250ex has a lot of back pressure which doesn't let me run enough argon flow. I tried blowing into the hose and pressing the pedal and could feel the valve open but it has a lot of resistance and I have to blow pretty hard to get air through. Think I need to replace the whole valve.

Nice work. I’ve been considering doing this for the local race guys. Your setup looks nice and rigid. This video gives me the confidence to do it. BTW, have you considered verifying hole diameters with gauge pins?

can you give the e-bay link or address where you purchased QCTL from. I would like to get one for my 16" swing VICTOR lathe.

I have the same one. 1978. Restoring it now!

This is something I've been wanting to do but with but not being a locksmith I was concerned it would be outside my skill level. but this looked a lot more straight forward than expected,thanks

Looked great to me.

Great work!

Did this repair last ? Or did it break again? About to buy one try teach myself basic tig . And use it for stick 3/32 7018 . Good choice you think overall ?

Nice!!

Usually you see this kind of work liquid cooled - as the heat from the drill can warp the disc

I work on safes looks like you did adecnt job

F digital locks…. Team mechanical here