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You can send the picture here via messenger. facebook.com/profile.php?id=61561838530644&mibextid=ZbWKwL

This is the exact tool I used in that video. shop.snapon.com/product/Ring-Compressors/Ring-Compressor-Set-(Blue-Point)/RC980 This one would be comparable from Amazon. OTC 4838 Piston Ring Compressor Set - 6-Piece a.co/d/5B92ZKi

Thanks for the information you do a great job thanks again

Which numbers are being referenced? Are you looking at the 22PI that is on the front of the heads?

I would love to see it done. It doesn't seem like you would have enough room. Trying to get a video of the front side of the engine seems like it would be tough too without taking it off.

Thanks for the comment! I am happy to help!

Thank you for the comment! I am glad you enjoyed the video!

Thanks for subscribing! Hope you have a great weekend as well!

Right! If only it worked that way.

That is interesting. I didn't know that. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks for watching!

Thank you for the suggestion! I will do that.

Aluminum 5.4 engine blocks do exist, but they are only in the 2011-2014 GT500 and the Ford GT. They are not paired with 2v heads from the factory. However, with these modular engines, any head configuration will fit any block. It probably won't be worth the money to make this change because of the rarity, but that decision is up to you.

@VZGarage360 Thanks alot for sheading some light on my imagination of my ideal set up. I plan on instilling in a 2004 lincoln town car executive L(1 year pre drive by wire throttle body)..good ol wire pull baby. I subbed.

@byronrichards3001 Thanks for the sub! That sounds like a cool build!

Part 2 hadn't come out yet, so the recommendations were set to most relevant for the person watching. RUclips's algorithm probably isn't always the best for deciding the next videos.

My pleasure!

Happy I was able to help!

@VZGarage360 I found my port but it's so difficult to even reach it with engine on the way. Looks like it melted on mine.

@angelmorningstar241 That's not good. I wonder if dropping the exhaust from the manifolds would allow for better access. If the drain can't be cleared/fixed, pulling the dash and heater box may be necessary. I have never done that with a Mustang, so I don't know what exactly is required.

@VZGarage360 I recently had the clutch changed and it wasn't acceptable even with exhaust out. The mechanic tried to pock at it but it's really melted down. He suggested to remove all front dashboard, but it's more expensive than changing the part. I appreciate your info and at least now I know, I won't fix unless engine comes off.

How can I help?

I removed my valve cover and found a piece of metal that broke off from somewhere. I can't see any place where it could be from. I was hoping that you might recognize it and help me figure out where it's from.

@@danielrolle885 Sure! I can't guarantee that I will know exactly what it is, but I will it a shot.

@@VZGarage360 how do I show u the pic?

VZGarage360 has a FB page that this can be sent to. Here is the link. facebook.com/profile.php?id=61551230604016&mibextid=ZbWKwL

I completely agree! Whenever I do these modular rebuilds, I only use the metal tensioners.

I did several business name searches before choosing this name, and I was able to receive a DBA.

@@VZGarage360Any particular reason for the VZ?

@@farmermiyagi1338 VZ is the initials for my last name.

@@VZGarage360Me too. Howdy cousin. ;)

@@VZGarage360Was your first ancestor in the USA John Veazey of Cecil, Md. cir. 1670?

Thanks for the advice! I will keep that in mind.

I will continue to make more videos. Right now, I am working 12s at work. At this time, weekends are really the only time I can focus on video creation and editing. A new one should be coming out this next week.

I do have replacements, and what you saw was the boot coming off the coil, which is a replaceable part. The coil itself did not break. I will go through the old coils explaining the signs for when they go bad and replacing the boots, which essentially acts as a plug wire.

I will try to incorporate this into one of the next few videos about the Mustang. I don't have an eta for when, but I would like to answer this question.

@VZGarage360 thank you so much. Looking forward to it. I'm sharing your video so you can get more views. Thanks.

It is a GEARWRENCH 15 Piece Ratcheting Serpentine Belt Tool Set - 3680D. I believe I got it from Cornwell Tools, but it looks like you can pick one up on Amazon for $54.14 before tax.

Here is a link for this tool from Amazon. a.co/d/jiUaloi

@@VZGarage360thanks

Happy to help!

It will be very similar. Modular engines are fairly good about being pretty much the same between every vehicle they were in with a couple exceptions. The major differences tend to be with the 4V engines.

@@VZGarage360thanks

@@VZGarage360 What are the major differences with the 4v? pulling one soon, which is why im here xD

It really depends on what kind of vehicle. I have never pulled a Mustang 4V. I can only speak to a 5.4 4V Navigator and a 4.6 4V Continental with the transverse setup. With the Navigator, it has a 2 piece intake, which is a pain. The temp sensor was also in a weird spot. It was located on the back of the passenger side head. I didn't know it was there until I heard the pigtail snap while lifting the engine. You may already know about the coil covers on the valve covers, but it is worth mentioning due to the harness being hidden underneath. The intake area is really the only difference I have seen with the 4V. The continental is a different story being transverse. Slightly similar bolt locations, but way less room for hands and a very weird coolant crossover between the heads on the front of the engine.

@@VZGarage360 I see. I'll be pulling a 4v from a mach 1. I'll definitely have to go slow and be careful. I don't wanna mess up the harness for sure. Thanks for the info!

This engine was originally a 3V. However, I am making it a 2V with 3V pistons. The difference between these pistons is that the 2V is dished and the 3V is a flat top.

@@VZGarage360 that is pretty cool

Right now, I am unsure of how much it would cost to do the machining for these cam bearings. I will definitely share my findings when I find these answers. The machine shop I am going to has higher machining prices than other places in town. The work quality is much higher as well. The biggest wear point on these heads is the cam bores. The other things to check are the actual cam, the rollers in the cam followers, and the valve guide clearance.

Timeserts may be overkill for these, but I do like the comfort of having steel inserts. No matter what happens, using them a sparkplug will not come out. Plus, I get to save part of an ICE. That is definitely a good thought, though. Thank you for sharing!

​@VZGarage360 ...Nice tip/jewell to keep in mind when dealing with aluminum heads(steel inserts). So for me it will be timeserts all the way even if I'm fortunate to go with the trick flo heads. -Smart Dude

They are going on the 5.4L. There are some differences, but the nice thing with these modular engines is that any head will fit any block. That goes for every 4.6L and 5.4L using 2V, 3V, and 4V heads.

I have not created a video about an f-150, but the process is very similar. The top end intake components are slightly different. That is about the only difference. If you have specific questions about the process with an F-150, let me know. Those were what I worked on every day at the beginning of my automotive career.

Glad it helped

Thanks! The build will continue once this cold snap starts to go away.

I am happy I was able to help!

I bought this engine already pulled, but based on the head design, it would be around 2007. The nice thing about the 5.4 block is that the design never changed between 1998 and 2013. A couple of parts that are installed on or in it did, and I list a couple of those. The piston design did change based on what head design it came with. Example: NonPI 2v, PI 2v, supercharged 2v and 3v. The 4v from what I remember used 2v pistons. Even though the pistons changed, the rod length never did. Over the years, a cast and forged crank were used, but the stroke did not change. Also, it did have 2 different oil pumps that were used. The only difference was the diameter of the hole for the oil pickup tube. I hope this information helps.

Thank you!

That is a really good idea! I will have to do that the next time I polish a crankshaft.

Oh I just wanted to add, you closing comments implied you might be slow to move forward because there is more sorting out to do on your end. I think many projects are of this nature if you're trying to do it on your own. Maybe make a short video on how or methods to preserve an engine with no heads on it, while waiting on parts finding or what have you. I know I'd appreciate it.

I do plan on continuing the build in the next couple of weeks, so I won't have to store it long, but I will definitely make a video about storing engines for long periods of time.

Let me answer this in 2 parts. I will be building this engine as an economy engine, so deburring is not critical for this type of engine build. If I was building a race engine with any type of high torque/HP or forced air induction, I would put this kind of work in. I have a good relationship with the machine shop I use, and I have never had an issue with the quality of work that I have received from them. They have done the cleaning on the block using a hot tank and removing all the oil plugs and running brushes through all the passages. If you want to be sure this work has been completed, you can remove the oil plugs and run brushes through yourself. I can show this process in a future video on the next engine build.

In a previous video, I did use a micrometer to measure the crank to determine if I could use standard bearings. The question is, how is the engine going to be used? This will determine how precise the clearances need to be. With racing applications, clearances are very critical because the engine is going to be at very high rpms for the majority of it's life. It also depends on what oil weight you plan on running. Heavier weight oil is more forgiving with wider clearances. Economy engines will see mostly lower and mid range rpms. In turn, clearances are not quite as critical with this type of use. I am not saying they are not important, just not as critical. I am going to be building this one as an economy engine. If I was building this as a race engine, I could measure the clearances in 2 different ways. Plastiguage or a borescope could be used. It really depends on how precise you want your measurements. A borescope is the more precise option and requires less cleaning of parts after the measurement. With some future engines, I will go into this kind of detail.

Glad you liked it!

It depends if it is a Windsor or Romeo block. The Romeo has a different process for installing the side bolts since the main cap design is a little bit different. Otherwise, everything else for the assembly is the same. I do plan on building a Romeo block sometime in the future.

These are the headlights. SEALIGHT LED DRL Headlight www.amazon.com/dp/B09NLFZH5L?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share These are the fog lights. NJSBYL Mustang-GT LED Fog/DRL www.amazon.com/dp/B09CQ15L56?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share I installed these before I was making videos. Installing the fog lights was a trip. When they showed up, the lights were mounted in the bracket upside-down. This made the light point extremely high, and adjusting didn't help make the light point to the road. I couldn't get the light to detach from the bracket without breaking it, so I ended up using the stock brackets to mount them correctly. That is my only complaint with them.

Thanks! I keep thinking about doing that.

Is there any drone when cruising on the highway?

A little, but it's not unbearable. You can have a normal conversation at highway speeds. Honestly, I am surprised at how quiet it is in the car while driving.