Видео

I thought he is eric clapton

okay so for your procedure in particular you didn't saw the neck completely off? you mainly sawed up to the truss rod and then reattached to the body, letting the small bit of remaining wood on the sides of the truss rod experience some flexion? just trying to understand. is this advisable or harmful? i want to do a quick reset and know that little bit where the truss rod is will be tricky

just made cheap guitar even cheaper.

if you remove the fingerboard first you would see the joint and see how to reset it

At the very very least, could you not have countersunk the hole in the heel and used a screw/bolt that would sit flush? then you could easily glue the heel piece over it.

If it hasn't been mentioned, use a flat stone to sharpen chisels.

Great quick fix.....

my man that is an oar

I picked up a Suzuki acoustic cheap from a secondhand store. It appeared to be in good condition, but the strings were too high, and the sound board and bridge was all chewed up and cracked across the middle. I was able to lay the sound board flat, and solid again by clamping it down tight and regluing the lifting pieces back down into their normal resting areas where they came out of. I took a mirror look inside and saw in a couple of places some wood splinters had disappeared over the years of abuse stringing this guitar.. It wasn't really all that bad overall that some epoxy couldn't level out and have a complet level suface again that would do the job of holding the string buttons solid once installed. The bridge had to be removed and replaced with a new one. There was no way to save and repair the old bridge, so it's getting a new bridge in the days to come. Back to the neck, I had to completely cut it off to reset the neck to the right angle as it was held in place by dowels. I haven't finished the job yet, but I plan on using a couple of dowels to keep the neck from twisting once reinstalled and will bolt the neck back on from the inside of the guitar area (through the inside neck block) that way no bolt will be seen form the outside of the neck heel area. It's sad that guitar makes make guitars in such a destructable condition that require neck resets over time. Using a straight edge across the frets it laid level with the guitars body when I first started this project. When I'm finished that neck will be correct t the right proper level it should be for a nice sounding small guitar some person will enjoy playing down the road. It's as nice a guitar as the one shown here in this video. Chow...

Nice playing. Was a pleasure to listen to.

Hello - I am now the proud owner of this instrument as of a few hours ago, lol. Would love to pick your brain about it!

Strange

I love this! I’m going to make one.

🙀🙀🙀

but does it djent?

Beautiful work--what kind of tuning tailpiece is that?

hola me parece interesante me preguntó si la posición de los puentes es esa la óptima o cabría alguna otra posibilidad ? si me permite qué tipo de clavijas de afinación ha utilizado? gracias

Could have run that mechanical fastening via the inside of the body, without cutting the heel. Use hanger bolts. Would take a while longer due to drilling in that confined space, but a much cleaner and less invasive way to do it.

If you used a heat gun on the fretboard at the 12th fret, so that it would bend, you would not have had to separate it from the body. Doing so would allow a lower string action and cleaner finish.

What a waste.

Nice work. Thanks

I do lean towards StewMac heat sink fore loosening glue in a dovetail and an adjustable sodering gun with a long rod is safer.

Thanks, I have a Yamaha Gigmaster deluxe edition FDO1S brand new off eBay with a snapped off headstock. I don't like the cheap neo or whatever they call that bottom of the barrel mohogany, fixed the break though and will string it up but considering a StewMack replacement bolt on neck. StewMac wants me using their block to insert the neck into but how do I get the old one out, everything else is routine but the block is new territory fore me, I really think that the new mohogany and a ebony fingerboard instead of a painted rosewood board would allow the dreadnought to sing the way designer intended. What you showed me was priceless and thank you.

...the better thing to do: don't touch guitars anymore... This is "killing" the luthiery....

Note to self: Add bored luthiers and expert guitar know it alls to the list of snobs and arseholes.

I'm a luthier with a busy shop. I build custom guitars, I do repairs, and I restore historical guitars. I work on everything from prewar Martins and Gibsons, to 19th century guitars, to inexpensive guitars like in this video. I've run across many guitars where the dovetail tenon is bottomed into the mortise, or in the case of a bolt-on, the tenon is bottomed out. Most "chicago" made guitars will have bottomed out tenons. I've also done resets on necks that have been installed using dowel rods. In short, I've pretty much seen it all. I'm a veteran, so I also donate my time and guitars, with veterans, through the Guitars 4 Vets program. This is how I would have handled this reset (assuming it's not a 100+ year old historical): first I would have looked to see if it's a bolt-on (they're concealed, so you need to recognize the cover). If not a bolt-on, I would have recognized a problem when I drilled and not hit the pocket normally found under the tenon. I would have taken the 9th fret out (yes, this high) and sawed through the board ONLY, through that slot, carefully avoiding cutting into the neck. By removing only the lower part of the board at this level, you can visualize the joint, plus you can glue it back accurately and with enough neck to properly clamp. You can now drill holes for the steam needle, either at the mortise/tenon seam, or if this is missing, at the junction of the body/neck. This way, you can loosen the glue and remove the neck, retaining whatever method was used to install the neck, short of a screw through the heel, into the body. But, I promise you, you will not see this on a production guitar. I have a custom guitar on my bench, right now, with a drywall screw, installed at an angle through the heel, then concealed with the heelcap, obviously by someone who didn't understand the mechanics of guitar necks. Unless you run into the scenario of the screw through the heel, like I have on my bench, bolt-ons not withstanding, steam will remove the neck. So, you're most likely dealing with a mortise/tenon of some kind, and you can take the appropriate amount of wood off to affect an angle which will set the neck at more of a backward angle, thus resetting the action. After fitting the neck geometry properly, and some scribe sanding to sit the heel onto the body seamlessly, the neck can be glued back on properly. The only bolt should be the original, if a bolt-on (yes, glue is involved in bolt-on necks too). The one other scenario is a pocket installation, usually seen on 19th century guitars, but if you remove the fretboard up to 9th fret, you'll see that too, and you'll just follow the protocol for a bottomed out neck. If the neck is being held by dowels, not likely in a modern steel string guitar (and assuming it's not of historical significance) I would turn it into a proper bolt-on, by drilling holes from bottom of the neck block (accessible through the soundhole), into the neck (2 for larger guitars), install threaded inserts into the holes in the neck, and bolts through the block into the threaded inserts. The bolts need to be countersunk and once the reset is done, they're covered with a wooden plate. I've never seen an adjustable neck on an expensive guitar, and I've worked on $60,000 guitars. I do have a 1950s era guitar with an "adjust-o-matic" neck sitting in the shop, but it's value is about $150.

big yikes

Ha he buys a stew Mac file and uses it after doing this to a guitar 😂😂

It was most likely hardwood used for the front block. Mahogany most likely. Hard to drill through with the type you used. A Brad bit would have worked well. Good job on the reset.

Wtf !! U are idiot rigth???

Hi sir,what is the temperature used to open

No

I think I haven't seeing such a destruction like this in just one video.

The kamakazi neck reset is about the worst idea I can think of for a guitar.

Might have been more successfull if you drilled the holes at the 14th fret!

Fret dust evacuation system😂😂

Fantastic adaptation of ordinary tools to do luthier work! I love your level/fret level! You used common geometry and handy man logic to do a righteous repair! Bravo my friend Bravo!

U sound like u had a lot of fun

How is the tuning stability? Do yiu think it is possible to make a tremolo style bridge with this system?

Dont understand all the hate here, its not your guitar, you didnt buy it, you didnt repair it, guitar isnt worth anything so why worry? If ya dont like it just move along man! Great video man, I got an old cheap Silvertone where im gonna do something similar (minus the screw in the heel lol)

Good thing that guitar is not human!!! You abused that badly lol

You put that guitar through hell!!!!! You should have been polite to the guitar!! And threw it in the garbage!!!! Instead

GREAT JOB by the way, especially for a used guitar. My experiment is on a used, cheaply priced guitar so I am a bit nervous but not really.

Exactly what I am doing to my recently purchased Harmony H6128. It was only $40 with a beautiful newer case. But it needs a neck reset. So this will be my first neck removal. Then I will try to convert it to a bolt on. Do you have any recommendations on redressing the fret board? Stain or oil to protect the fretboard? I am seriously also considering replacing the fret pins. Looks fairly easy to do.

Saved my 1972 Elger acoustic which isn't too shabby of a guitar/Brazillian rose wood back/solid top. Didn't do exactly what you did but same basic idea. Thank you thank you. Elger had 5 dowels -repaced three with wood dowels/other 2 thin bolts. Did not cut a wedge out of the heel but rather larger drill hole into thinner drill hole but just into it a 1/4 inch and cover bolt head with wood filler. Thanks again...never expected this the neck did NOT steam out and was at a loss for what to do.

Suprisely, this man don't know how to treat music instrument.

Absolute best fix of a POS guitar. Great job. That guitar was less than $100 new. Don't mind the Know-it-alls in comment section

Great video. I'm going to try this on my dad's old guitar. It's been gathering dust for 50 or 60 years.

Very good paint job, and very cute interview

Very entertaining video, love the voiceover. Just one small note: You really shouldn't use a nut removal device for clamping