Видео

I think someone might have beaten you to the punch, mate. Sometimes the stats take a while to update.

😂😂😂

Awesome. My rip guide fit both my makita saws, so I think all the Makita ones are the same. I know the Dewalt ones are different, though.

@@nakedapprentice thanks for that, can i ask did you have to "square the base plate", as it seems as though it doesn't cut true/straight..i watched tools and stuff and they mentioned it but didn't show how to do it as there are multiple screws to choose from...thanks in advance. ps good to hear James is on the mend

Do you mean straight front to back? I'll have a look tonight and do a little video in it if I figure it out. I know there is one to set 0 degrees plumb, but I keep forgetting to set it.

@yeahyeah71 Here you go - ruclips.net/user/shortsHKPKNP_o8LM?si=S2RTahWiUnDfFMqz

You must be hitting the pipe a bit too much if you think you tell all that from a 28 second video. How could you tell the size, gauge and tensile strength of the mesh? How could you tell the MPa of the concrete, whether we added more bar chairs as we moved back or whether we lifted the mesh with the hook on the rake? How do you know what our relationship with the clients is like, after 4 months of renovating their entire house, and that they don't car about the TINY amount we washed into the gardens, which will be topped up to driveway level anyway.

Speed triangle 😂

Thanks mate. I spent way too much time on this one. I thought shooting it all at once would be easier, but I still spent well over 10 hours editing.

@@nakedapprentice Well done, its very slick.

Oh, very nice! Maybe one day I'll be able to afford that 😂

😬 Sorry, I wasn't trying to hijack your audience. Mine was supposed to be out at 830, but Power Director was giving me trouble again 😞

By gum, you're right. I just checked the 2024 gib guide and they have indeed changed it.

It was a mistake in the engineers detail, so the council had no problem as long as the engineer approved the change. It didn't come up in any of the inspections, since both beams were fully-supported by the studs. We also studloked them together and put CPC80s to tie it all together. A joist hanger wouldn't have worked in this situation, because one of the beams would have had to stick out of the wall to fix the JH to

Thanks

I know there are track adapters for other saws, but I'm not sure about this one.

Welcome aboard mate!

😂 James, my old foreman and definitely liked my Milwaukee more than his bradder. I could count the number of jams or misfires on one hand until I started this cladding. Every few shots it would get stuck. It was fine now that I'm back to doing trim.

Thanks. We did have a bit of a gap between soffit and framing, just because the windows don't extend as high as we expected. Tom put some face boards over the top a couple of days ago.

😮 Thank you so much!

Oh, absolutely l, air tools are so much simpler, more reliable, and powerful. We did use a air framer and bladder for fixing Fibre cement battens and axon panel on another job. Tom had a look at some bladders the other day. He said the straight paslode bradders are advertised as for cladding, but the angle bradders aren't.

Almost 2 years 😬 It was installed most of that time, but I finally pull it out over the weekend to finish it.

Yeah, that was pretty much my thinking. These were all rimu, but painted multiple times and some were broken. The client wanted to reuse them, but I'm sure the painter cost more to tidy them up than new ones would've.

I think the guard isn't compliant, but hopefully, Japan will tweak it to bring it here.

The black stuff? That's malthoid. It's a thick dampproof course, but we use it for packing everything. It's cheap and durable

Yup, I absolutely agree. I don't even think ply is more expensive, or at least not by much. However, under the cure rules, there still needs to be bracing inside the house, otherwise everything needs to be diaphragm, which won't work with the rules around those. Engineers 🤷‍♂️

Thanks mate

Oh cool. Did you do a Scott Brown and double glaze timber windows? Yeah, I switched a few months ago. The last company was no good. James helped us out for a bit, saw the dodgy goings on and left. The other two apprentices left as well, so he's had to start with a completely fresh crew.

@nakedapprentice No we still have single glazing. Yes as Scott Brown, I have thought about retro fitting double glazing but we have a lot of glazing and I think the cost would be pretty high. Hope your new firm is treating you OK?

Yeah, I imagine it is pretty expensive. Aluminum is pretty cheap in comparison. Yup, the new job is going great. I've been at this reno most of the time, but we're starting a new build soon as well. There's also quite a few others in the pipeline

At least I was only a cheap lens. I will buy a better one at some stage, but I'll get a better tripod first

The bits I cut off were just the bottom of the packers we had put on. We packed the walls put by 40mm to make the walls 140mm for more batts. Plus it means we could get them plumb and straight as well. I think I might have mentioned that in Instagram a while back. Anyway, we later found out how out of level that back floor was, so when we fixed that the bottom packer was too low for gib fixing. This was the quickest way of fixing it.

It was just that one face that I finished off. I had the chalk line filled with water, so it was wet each time I wound it out. It was way quicker than using a straight. 19 seconds to ping a line and then a few minutes to drill and put the screws in. Plus, no pencil marks!

😢​@@nakedapprenticeWe have chalk boxes with white or violet powder in them ( these colors you can just wipe or blow off). Works nice, but you have to go back and wipe or dust off the marks. With your technique, the cleaning off step is eliminated, so very nice. Just have to remember not to do this technique in winter. 😂

Yeah, I've heard of that too. I'm just worried that it will soak into the stain and get stuck there. I don't want to be the one to find out 🤣

It sure is! We starting lining today, so it's starting to feel less like a construction site and more like home.

Of course. There's a brief shot at about 7:30

Thanks, I appreciate your support

Hey mate, good question. Normally it's not needed, so I don't bother. Above the nog gives you fixing from 800-900 high, which is fine for most vanities. The only time I've had issues was with the prebbleton ones, where the top was much lower, but the bowl that sat in top was 900 high. James may have hit a pipe then 😬 Vertical blocking is no good IMHO. If the vanity size or location moves at all, it's probably no use.

Yes, fair point. I'll try t9 give it a mention in the next video. It happens so much in construction, even new builds. There's a rush to get the frames up, get the trusses stood, and put the roof on. Then there's a whole bunch of fixings or blocking that needs to be done, which is now more difficult. However, in saying that, it's also good to have so wet day jobs tucked up your sleeve.

Yeah bro, I'm loving it!

Thanks. I can't take most of the credit. I only put put the last few boards on and screwed it off.

Thanks mate

Good, I'm not the only one. Are you a late starter as well?

@@nakedapprentice sure am, jumped in at 34

I need to try that one

I've got a full length video here - ruclips.net/video/RYUUYslC-2Y/видео.html

Yup, I just tried it. It clips over the 50mm belt, so you don't even need to pull the whole thing apart

Indeed it is. That's a question asked myself. The short answer is yes, but it would have very expensive. Because it's brick, all the latest would need to be removed, the house lifted, the ring foundation knocked out and then everything completely redone. Whereas what we've done only took us about 3 days and a few thousand dollars of materials. The front of the house is a bit up and down, so we're going to do that a bit differently. I'll cover that in a future video.

I like how they open and close, definitely much cooler than our normal aluminum. But they are heavy. Those two front ones should have been unglazed to make them safer to handle. The issues with Fitting them was entirely down to them being made just slightly too big. It's one of those things with renovations - they're made to fit inside the existing cladding and the framing. I'll go into more detai in the next video.

Yup, it sure does. It's hard to believe it's still the same house

She's pretty big job. I haven't one this big before, so it's pretty cool to see how it all ties together. The clients did want to replace the entire roof, rafters and all, but it was too expensive. It would've solved a lot of problems, but probably caused a few others too.

I'm almost qualified, hopefully signed off before I'm 41. Physically, it is certainly harder than it would've been 20 years ago, but I was also never treated as the boy, so skipped the boring jobs like sweeping and stacking timber. The hardest part would definitely be at my last job, where I did the oblique cladding. My boss was hopeless. I saw him briefly 1 or 2 times a week, so had to figure out how to do everything on those units, while juggling a 1st and 2nd year. It was a very stressful time, but also a good learning curve. My new job is way better. What have you found to be the hardest?

@@nakedapprentice For me has been the mental part of wanting to know and doing everything well asap, I feel like at our age we dont have time to be a "bad" carpenter so if im not learning (can be because of the company you in or type of job at that moment) I ger frustrated. Been in construction for a while and seen "qualified" chippies that i dont want to be like when im done, so I start questioning if im w/ the right crew or if im not good enough and etc haha

@nandoo89 I hadn't really thought about that side of things, but I do get it. I've worked for 4 companies now, two of which were pretty bad and now I'm on my second good one. Keep at it and don't be afraid to hunt around for other opportunities. It often comes down to who you know not what you know.

It just butts into the corner and sealed with MS. It's a cheap and reasonably tidy way of doing it. Box corners would be pretty hard to do well for these boards, I imagine.

We struggled w the recent job doing oblique vertical boards (1st time) and getting the boards to fit inside the box external angles cause hardiedetail asks for a “2 mm nominal gap” to the internal angle and the grove is 5mm so technically u need 3mm inside but the boards will start bending..wonder if you had a similar issue w externals or just went straight into just butting in. Cheers mate. Love the vids

I think I get what you mean. At the time, I thought vertical would have been a lot easier. Our biggest problem was getting it under the windows and soffit. Grind off the lip that locks it in was the that worked.

Thanks for your feedback. Both beams are the same length and span, with the load, so either way works. The engineer has given it the ok and we've still got the fixings to put on as well.

Thanks. That's malthoid, a brand of damp proof course. It's cheap and resilient, so we use it for packing. In this case, I was using it to pack the joists up to the correct height.