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Hey, thanks. I do, although I'm not an expert. I've mostly been using it to track diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) and try to eliminate them 1 by 1. I have a lot because my car is DAZA-swapped and there are little things that were never finished.

Ya, I just checked the fuse diagram and you're right, it's the Cigarette lighter, 12-volt power outlets fuse. Weird that would blow when associated with the radio. I'm noticing every golf maodel has slight differences to how and where the fuses are used. Glad you got it sorted!

There's really on;y one place it can go through if I remember correctly. A hole in the back of the media unit space, then behind the glove box to the right and into a channel along the passenger side kick panel then into the rocker panel cover. You'll figure it out 👍🏻

Ya, it should. Best to disconnect the battery, but removing the yellow fuse that I show at 8:26 should do it. You can also just be really careful and add the powered leads into the terminal block before looping in power (The two larger black wire harnesses that I'm talking about at 7:20) - Don't plug those in before you put the Yellow and black wites where they belong. THEN plug in the Red/Brown wires in the black wire harness together.

I don't *think* the 20 fuse kills the power to the infotainment head unit, probably JUST the speakers and amp. But if it does, no pronlem just plug it back in when you're done and all will work again.

Glad it helped! Hello from Boston USA 👋🏻

Not difficult at all! It goes back together a lot more easily than it comes apart. Just have to line it up and give it a firm push with your fingers, or "BONK" with the heel of your fist. Everything still looks new when you put it back together 👍🏻 (I had that concern too).

@@Kevin_MK7RSR what is the dimensions of the packaged item (complete system) and the weight of it all? I'm looking at buying it and need to courier and thus supply this info for freight calculation. :) Please let me know

@@stephanpieterse6960 Oh, i'm not sure, sorry. It was so long ago. If I had to guess I'd say it's 36" x 36" x 12" and around 15 pounds.

LOL, yes! 😄. That’s why I zapped my fuse. You don’t have to if you’re really careful, but it’s best to unplug the battery before installing 👍🏻

@@Kevin_MK7RSR 😆 Thanks for that. You remind me a heck of a lot of my brother, especially when you complete tasks along the install - classic. Love your content. I'm hoping I can get my hands on one of these subwoofers. They retail for more than double here in New Zealand.

@@stephanpieterse6960 Ya, I was pretty new to car audio at the time, no idea what I was doing really 🤣. I was rushing it because I wanted to get it done to hear it! (and I was at work in my lunch break). No tools to unplug the battery. Too bad about the high price, it's a nice unit! I actually fried mine, got a replacement amp, put the whole thing in my wife's car, and redid my stereo completely with other Helix amps and a single 10" JL sub...

instagram.com/p/CZe_4lqOUB9/?img_index=1

@@Kevin_MK7RSR I am between two minds on going for something different and custom but then there is my OCD and not wanting to cut existing power cables. I also wonder how the Helix Subwoofer bar (the one that fits ontop of the boot back board) compares to the system that fits in the tyre well? I wonder if the boot board muffles or disrupts sound compared to the bar? What do you reckon?

So glad I could help! 🙌🏻

Do you know anyone with one of these? You could try borrowing theirs to see if it works to rule out your amp being broken. Did you buy it used? Also, you can make (or buy) a loop harness to cut out the amp for when you need to put a spare in and want the Helix donut out, but still want your radio. This would either point to the amp being the issue (If the radio still worked), or the wiring being the issue if that also didn't work. This loop harness would also alow you to still use your radio while waiting for a new amp if that's the problem so you don't have to rewire it at the terminal block.

@@Kevin_MK7RSR Hey thx for the reply. Helix got installed by a VW dealer... Loop harness is now on and i got sound back. I also think its the wiring, but the dealer swears its coding. So now he wants to code it again.

@@julian117891 Glad you made some progress 👍🏻 If it's working now with the wire loop that should rule OUT the wiring harness. Points to the amp being the issue. I doubt it's the coding, they work out of the box, the sound just isn't optimized for your car until coded. Sounds like the amp may be bad. The dealer should reach out to Helix. One other thing, check that the pins in the amp harness receptacle aren't bent. FWIW I blew one amp when I installed aftermarket speakers in front. It has to be run with the OEM speakers. Probably something to do with the Ohms rating, or maybe the in-line highpass filter for the tweeters.

@@Kevin_MK7RSR Dawg thx alot for the infos. Dealer is contacting the VW supplier now. Really appreciate the reply.

@@julian117891 NP, good luck man, I hope you get it sorted 🤙🏻

I think it's been discontinued, but usually a VW dealer will have them and might still have them in stock. A while back people lucked out and got these kits on clearance for like $250 which is a steal. I think I paid like $600 for mine. Try eBay too. Good luck searching 👍🏻

@@Kevin_MK7RSR thanks dude I do see the occasional one come up for sale was there a parts number for it?

@@Theferrariguy This post on golfmk7.com has all the added info you need: www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/helix-soundbox-upgrade-information-post.346458/

@@Theferrariguy It really is worth it. Sound is night & Day. It's not $3000 system amazing, but it's a LOT better than what a 15 watt-per-channel OEM sound system can put out

@kevinhannon7260 yeah I hear that as I've a gti I don't lose the spare wheel either

Thanks, I agree 👍🏻 I had a Uni Stg 2 tune on this, I didn't like the tune but it had the best sounding burbles. Not obnoxious pops n' bangs like some.

👋🏻😄

I couldn't say, I've never installed an audio upgrade on a MK6 so I don't know what the terminal block and harness are like, but my assumption is "Yes". There are differences. If you're willing to learn a bit about audio, rewiring it wouldn't be too hard though.

Sounds like the Amp is broken. ☹ Maybe reach out to Helix, I fried one and they replaced it for about $200.00. You can also grab a multi meter and check voltages coming from the car by tapping into the harness and see if they change when you shut the car off. Might tell you if it's a car issue or an amp issue. I would check and make sure all the wires are in good shape and not disconnected somehow.

Thanks! ☺ Glad it helped.

Coding the system with the dongle is key! I've installed this system 4 different times myself, and every time it sounded better after coding. ❤👂🏻

Yes, you can create a looped wire harness. I'll try to post a link here.

www.vwvortex.com/threads/diy-helix-dongle.9107681/

I was asking because the following happened, my mid speakers all stopped working at the same time, the week prior to this they sometimes worked, and sometimes failed out of nothing, only the SUB and the Tweeters are currently working... I actually bypassed the AMP by reconnecting everything the main unit (using your video's so thanks a lot for this!!) but still, only sound coming from the tweeters :( do you think they are fried? All at once?! I cannot figure out what it is!@@Kevin_MK7RSR

2016 MK7 Golf R.

@@Kevin_MK7RSR is that the same for the passat?

@@DoMi0319 I’m sorry, I couldn’t say. If your Passat is 2016 or newer, there is a chance the system will work with it. Is your media center in the glovebox like mine? If so, one way to find out, would be to pull the media center out, remove the harness block and compare it to the one in the video. It’s actually really easy to do.

@@DoMi0319 I will also say that I’ve seen people whose systems have the harness behind the center console (radio) not in the glove box, and they’ve got this system to work. Some re-wiring may be required though.

@@Kevin_MK7RSR Passat is Form 2016. but i get one directions

You should have got a wiring harness in the kit. I show it here: ruclips.net/video/6dKJtnaV9CU/видео.html

Hi, probably UroTuning.com? IDK remember sorry.

You're welcome! Glad it worked out 🙌🏻

From the spare tire... sub?

Hi, that's a really good question... I had always assumed (Or it was my understanding through what I read) that it provided more NEGATIVE camber only, but after looking into it, I think I may be wrong about that... So, assuming they go negative only, if my camber started at -1 up front and I added these, I could set camber to range from -1 to -1.5 because they allow for the addition of -0.5 worth of camber. One thing it does do is allow you to set the camber correctly on both left and right side to match each other because shifting the sub frame changes both simultaneously. It gives you independent adjustability. Not totally sure on the negative / positive camber issue though, but I'm able to run a max of -2.8 in front and stock is about -1. I have SP Negative camber strut mounts (-1.4), SP lower control arms that add negative camber (-0.4) and the adjustable ball joints ( ? ). Based on the math it seems they add positive camber! -1 + -1.4 + -0.4 = -2.8. Throw in the adjustable ball joints and you dial in more positive. One of my sides is sitting at -2.7 and the other at -2.6, and I know I can go down to -2.5. I really wish SuperPro and other companies would figure this out and provide the propper info on the adjustability. To contradict myself here, I have seen other threads where people install these and they claim their camber went from -1 to -1.5, so... IDK. I think you just need to install them and see. Here is a thread on vortex I contributed to with a bit more info... www.vwvortex.com/threads/034-ball-joints-anyone.9498626/

@@Kevin_MK7RSR ok I'll do that. From your video it almost looks like they are tighter than stock. Don't know for sure without measuring. I ordered some adjustable bushings for front. This might help also. Thanks

​@@cjoy9405 How much camber do you have now thats wearing your tires like that? I actually would get an alignment and check your tow first. I chewed through a set of tires that had about 60% life left in about 1,000 miles because I updated suspention components and didn't get an alignment. I mean, with -2.6 degrees of camber my inner tread isn't waering like that. You should check these out too if your lowered: www.034motorsport.com/dynamic-rco-camber-roll-center-adjusting-ball-joints-volkswagen-audi-mqb-and-mqb-evo.html They provide an additional 1.2° of Negative Camber at Each Wheel compared to the OEM ball joints which tells me the SP or Whiteline's are probably negative too. I know you want LESS camber, but the cones on these are really tall. A lot taller than OEM or the SP's or Whitelines. The taller cone helps roll center a lot.

A bit, but it's better when you close the valves. I recommend having a Heimholtz resonator added toward the front.

Yes. I deleted the OEM resonator. This comes with one but it doesn't to much. It needs a heimholtz.

They didn't hit my OEM brakes, can't say if they contact the rotor of a BBk or not because I changed to Whiteline. I have a BBK on now and the Whitelines don't contact. FWIW, I don't think these would either though.

can I ask what camber did they give when fitted?

@@mapyn131 I belive it added -0.5 extra. I'm at about -2.8 on both sides with the 034 Strut mounts. the SuperPro Lower Control Arms and these. But if your going to do this I might look into 034's new solution for the ball joints instead. I think the cone is taller and will help your roll center more.

I have another vid around somewhere showing that they are close but do not touch the rotor.

LOL, loud right!? 😂. No more AWE DP, but still got the X-Force. Downpipe is a custom cat-less from Alex at Innovative Motor sports - 3.5”.

LOL, ya. The sway bar end link should have been attached to the other side. Not sure why SuperPro's instructions said to attach it to that side. Stupid.

Awesome! Glad it was helpful 👍🏻

I agree, I was short shifting all over the place. 😂

👋🏻😄

Thanks! 🙏🏻

Any time you unplug your battery you get these errors until you drive a couple feet. Sounds weird, but you litterally should only need to drive like 50-100 feet and they should clear.

Just happened to watch your helix sub videos today as well as the shop dap video and now I realize you were at this event with some of my favorite RUclipsrs.

Never mind haha, Tommy and the guys at Innovative Motorsports were way ahead of me

Tommy did have one built. 👍🏻 Alex from Innovative MS was there too. He built it for Tommy. Tommy sold it cause it wasn't that fast, but that because it had a bad tune on it from UM. Mine does too, but I'm transitioning off it right now (It's currently only 460 to the wheels) and am going either Unitronic or DS1 which will allow me to go ethanol and net me another 120 HP and 100 Ft lbs so I'll be about 560 to the whhels (660 crank) in the next month or so. I'm going to try to build it next year and go TTE855 which can make 800 to the wheels easy.

@@TarzanGTI Right on dude 😁👍🏻 What's crazy is my life long freind knows Brian Scotto and I didn't even know it untill after I met Brian at this event and later told my friend about it, and we’re on opposite coasts. Total small-world encounter. I guess they worked at some magazines together.

😂 Thanks man,glad it helped! Only an engineer could sort out the instructions it came with. I’m not even sure how I figured it out.

After doing more research, I found that you don’t need the two additional black and yellow adapters. Thanks again!

@@mikez3143 Your welcome :) I believe those are for the MK4 stereo.

Awesome! Glad it was helpful 🙌🏻 The manual was terrible, someone had to do something 😂

I would take anything over the Fuel-It lines, but I prefer the JBtuned lines. Their kit comes with 2 lines. Both sides of the sensor you will need - From the Hard line in the back to the sensor, and then fro the sensor to the HPFP. The PRW Kit only seems to have one line... precisionraceworks.com/products/mk7-flex-fuel-upgrade-for-ptfe-lines