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Glad to be of help!

I put an sb50 anderson powerpole connector between battery and pecron, instead of clamps, so I can remove it. Clamps don't provide a sufficient connection

Nice!

Glad it was helpful!

No, I didn't. Many folks on the two Pecron FB groups I visit report issues getting the powerstation to "see" the expansion battery though. For me, I have found that if you charge them both up separately, then connect, they see each other fine and will balance. Same thing if their state of charge is close, has always connected for me when within 20% of each other. That connector cable will flow so much power, that 400W input to the expansion is easily balanced, it appears.

That means your input voltage is lower than the Pecron setting. Measure the input voltage at the end of the cable that plugs into Pecron. Then look at what is set on Pecron wafer switch. Be sure you turn power sw for Pecron off then on to ensure it resets to whatever wafer switch setting is. Pecron intentionally doesn't turn on when input is below setting, that's the whole point of the setting switch to ensure you don't drain your car battery. For instance, at 12.5V, 13.0V, and 13.5V settings, just connected to my battery, I just get a blinking light too, exactly as designed ;)

@dave_in_az thanks I think mine is just faulty I tried all the numbers on the switch board nothing charges my bluetti.

Sorry to hear that :(

No. This Pecron doesn't charge 12v batteries, nor is it intended to in any way. It is completely intended to convert an incoming exact voltage, 12v to 14.5v or so, OR 24 to 29V, to a 42V output. Not 12v. The entire point is to output a higher voltage than normal dcdc alternator chargers, allowing a powerstation to be charged through its faster mppt solar input.

On the 12v setting, I got almost 500W driving, 130A alternator. However, my buddy gets 500w pretty easy on 12.5 with his 230A alternator when no other loads.

I’m using with 4 12v 100ah lifepo4 batteries in series/parallel

Copy that. The batteries you're using won't have any effect on the 500W supply, which seemed to be your interest in 1st comment. Only the alternator size having sufficient excess amperage, and also what voltage it delivers at. The charger output seems directly proportional to the alyernator output voltage vs the voltage setting of charger. So my alternator outputs 13.85 to 13.95 volts it seems, I get less watts than my buddy whose alternator gives 14.3v

Awesome!

Good to know, thx!

Thx, glad it helped!

Thanks and welcome

There are only 4 POWERSTATION dcdc chargers, which output 40+ volts instead if 12v. All the other standard dcdc chargers are just 12v to 12v, and separate the battery systems safely while providing the proper output voltage for LFP. The pecron works great, and once you pick a voltage to use, and set it once, you never have to look at the LED lights or reset it again. It's a one time thing. Pecron is $149, Bluetti is like $250, eTaker f1000 is $229, and ecoflow is $340 plus another $60 cable. F1000 you can use it for solar panel input too. BLUETTI you can turn on off via app and adjust output via app. Ecoflow you can use their port and leave solar available still, only works with ecoflow. If you dont need those things, Pecron is the best. Works great, don't worry about reset or leds.

​@dave_in_az I didn't realize that. Thank you for that information and the great video!

No problem! Subscribe and like haha! ;)

Great question, and it is something I do! For this, set it at 12.0 volts. This is the lowest setting, and will result in the highest watts. Because LFP are 12.8V nominal, you'll get a good charge rate, probably 500W the max. HOWEVER, if you want to use a LFP like this but ALSO want to use your car alternator, and want it to work with both without having to switch voltage and mess with it, then set 12.5V. This will let the LFP charge it still, maybe at a slower rate--you'll have to test your LFP to be sure. But with 12.5V, it works great with your car while still ensuring the start battery doesn't get drained almost at all. You could use 12V for both, but I don't like my start battery going down to 12v, even though it's probably safe... the AZ heat is just to hard on batteries for me to drain that low.

@@dave_in_az Thanks, as I thought. I have no plans to use it with my car. So if I want to charge slower than 500 watts, I would just increase the voltage to 12.5V?

Exactly.

Awesome, I'm happy it clarified things!

My buddy has a 200A alternator, on 12.5V setting he gets the max 500W. I get about 420 with my 130A alternator. I'd bet that at 12.5V you're maxed out.

@ I’ll have to set it at 12.5 and check it out. Ty

Let me know ;)

Thanks for watching!

Appreciate it! I tried to show the details.

I'm glad you found it helpful, and I'll keep that in mind for future videos.

That's what I'm doing right now

I like along the top of frame, ziptied, so wires are protected by frame member.

Pecron has changes to user manual to stTe the 12-18v input will go to 25v. I've tested it to 23, didn't want to get right up to the "fry the input" limit ;)

It is a good light. There are 2 other simular someone posted about on the OVRLND thread at ExpeditionPortal recently too, one is a puck. I do like the form factor and surface mount of these though.

Yes, some devices are really optimistic when they say what size terminal ends will fit their terminals. Victron is always tight. You need to use wire terminations that will fit of course, and if you are trying to shove the actual cable in there they usually won't fit. Victron expects you to terminate your cables in ferrules or rings with proper fit, not shove a wire in there... Look at Explorist Life, a van electrics channel, he just finished a 14 part series on proper wire terminals and crimping. Here is part 1 with basics: ruclips.net/video/USg32xCfmuY/видео.htmlsi=rJVdJsMAu6PCUDw- Even for 18A, 6awg looks correct for a 25 ft run, which is a 50ft circuit length.

Hi, thx for watching! No, the "car charger" is a 500W dc to dc charger device from Pecron, that connects directly to your starter battery and Alternator! A cigarette socket will only flow 10A at max, and at 12V that is just 120W. V x A = W. The e1500LFP can be charged from a normal 120v 60hz alternating current source... if your diesel generator puts out well formed pure sine wave correct ac power, it will work... most don't do a great job, so no idea really, depends on your unit.

@ thank you so much for your expertise

I have a video on the Pecron car charger, wiring and all, that I am just editing, should be out in a few days.

@@dave_in_az great, i was hoping for one. will subsscribe so that i see it when it comes out. looking forward to it

Thx!

Kevin, thx for watching! No, you will not find such a device. The "induction" comes from creating a magnetic field that cycles back and forth, INDUCING sympathetic eddy currents in your pan, which heat the pan due to the resistance of steel. You must have ALTERNATING CURRENT to run an induction cooktop. Also a microwave, anything that generates fields. Some microwaves have their own inverters to let them make reduced power fields... they take 120Vac, rectify it to dc, feed that to their Inverter and make custom ac again which they send to the magnetron. I suppose some of them might take dc input, haven't seen though. But no induction cooktop I've ever seen has its own inverter, so ac only.

Good to know! I have their e1500LFP here, and it is just a normal xt60 plug. I guess the issues folks are having are with that e3600LFP with the odd xt60 version, as you say. On those, good point on forcing it.

​@@dave_in_az I just realized, I think the E in XT60EF means it's mountable (something that's mounted into a unit that has mounting holes) as opposed to a regular connector which is just XT60M or XT60F (male or female). So that DC-out is a XT60EF (mounted inside and female) and the 2 solar XT60s would be called XT60EM (mounted and male). I was first under the impression that the rounded (not angular) look of that Pecron jack was a different/older version of XT60 and required a matching "rounded" plug, but I think the XT60 standard/shape are all the same. (And the H simply means the plug has a longer grip area.) Live and learn.

Thanks! Yah, when standard plugs start deviating to "improve" things, it pretty much messes them up as a standard. Good info.

Check this earlier video, see it's description for product info. ruclips.net/video/n78yuHaH-Nc/видео.htmlsi=gNjOXJws7Q6dhGBb Velcro was 3/4" from Amazon, not cheapest, not best. Seems good, but is coming off the aluminum side panels a bit. But not the insulation, so the part I stick on tent walls is fine, just the small 1" pieces to hold the side wings pieces, which sit in heat etc. I bought it again, so not bad. SOURRI 1 Inch x 82 Feet Hook and... www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNJTK2JP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Pecron Ep3000 3072Wh expansion battery. And a Redodo 100Ah 12.8v mini.

Yup, this vid is for folks who DON'T have a dc brick charger, which is just a power supply like I show. Always good to get power use numbers on a fridge though. Sooo many differences for power used, depending on size, outside temp, fridge or freezer mode and temp setting... same fridge can be 100Wh to 800Wh in a day. So folks really have to test their own settings and fridge. Glad you've found a setup that works well for you!

Thanks

Yes, that's essential! It's a good reminder to double-check.

That's a very good idea and observation

Not sure. Both round and angled outer edge of shield work fine on E1500LFP. My research says the xt60H is just the added integrated grip at the base, not round exterior of sheath. I still haven't seen a good picture of where the interference points causing issues are, but HAVE seen some cheap xt60 without angled interior sides... I think those are the issue.

@@dave_in_az i shaved a bit of the outside of the plastic shell for xt60H male connector and it worked fine. all connected up and just waiting for the install.

@@toddringler7858 glad to hear! Sounds like the Pecron port doesn't allow for the rounded outside edge much. Good luck!

Thx!

Glad I could help! I made a short video today on those, I removed and added some rtv sealant caulk to back side so they'd be waterproof... the hardish plastic alone didn't deform and seal enough.

Thanks, glad you enjoyed!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

NVM - I just watched your other video and it answered my question - thanks!

Well, I'll say thanks for watching, and your comment, anyways ;) yep, you can get power in from both ports at once, up to 800W. The 5521 actually now says 12v-25v in the online manual, instead of the 12-18v it is labeled as, and I've tested that as has Hobotech. The 32-95v input, I have tested to work at 19v and up, which is fantastic as now there is not a "voltage gap" at 18-32v, which is where a lot of panels sit!

Okay.

Not sure what 5521 cord you mean, none have o rings, but I got all my 5521 and 5525 cords off Amazon. They are often mislabeled for each other, and you have to read the details to be sure whether you're getting a 5.5mm x 2.5mm or a 5.5mm x 2.1mm plug. No, you can't charge the 100Ah LFP from solar as I have it set up here, I don't have a separate solar charge controller to do that... all my SCC MPPTs are part of the power station or its expansion battery. But of course, if you just bought an scc, like a Victron, you could of course then directly charge the LFP from solar.

Answered above ;)

Yes. However, I would never buy one, the hot spot for those smaller powered ones is very small. And cooking on an underpowered stove is just pain. You should be looking for MORE power, not less. There is no downside to getting an 1800W one... if your inverter doesn't support it, then just use a lower power setting.

You bet!

Thanks for watching!

Thx very much for your kind words! I also mostly tell folks to avoid expansion batteries... but this Pecron EP3000 is about the same price as buying 100Ah 12v LFPs, plus it has a nice 400W 12-95v solar mppt input, and 30A dc output. It is a standalone dc only powerstation really.

@@dave_in_az Agree, it is a good deal to pass up. I would have done the same.

@shelley131 unfortunately I bought mine last year at $1500 or something, just to get into the 2023 solar battery credit :(

Yup.