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@@88keysLA Good question, it’s just laying up against the notch.

@@alext8828 Are you suggesting I have no obligation to the client ethically? I dare say that type of outlook is what makes this a difficult world so I choose to live differently. I’d suggest my job includes helping the player succeed and if success is not possible after my “repair,” then I have an obligation to help by abstaining. Sorry you disagree and feel I should gouge this person the way the manufacturer has. Good luck in life.

@@repairmasterclass Why is that gouging. I need to see the video again, but I thought it was a simple job. Worth $25 at the most. I just watched the video again. What's the complaint? Fix the bridge? Fix what? It's dirty and you said the feet don't conform to the shape of the top plate. But what does the customer want? I don't know how you could gouge the customer with that. Unless you prices are too high. Run the bridge over some fine sandpaper and ignore the feet. $25! Next!

I have never encountered this and don't know of a way... but let me ask around. There's probably a solution...

@@alext8828 I’d suggest the materials are one in the same.

@@repairmasterclass If they're the same, why the need to only use ebony?

@@alext8828 It’s intriguing to play with because the changes are very noticeable, subtle, but noticeable. It has to do with the way the vibrations pass through the entire instrument.

@@WaterVR01 Then you’re probably at the end of the mortise. The frog only goes back so far then you’re jammed up against the bow itself. Try loosening the bow… if it turns that way but not tighter, then it’s time for a rehair. If it won’t turn either way, take it to a bow tech you trust.

@ what if I cant loose the hair either

@ Then more is broken inside than you want. Time for a bow tech you trust.

@@rexszn-too-crazy Well, you could buy one, you could take it to a tech you trust, leave them stuck for longer….

Mines been stuck for 2 or 3 years im so mad xd and I have to clean it 2day rn

Well that's interesting. The A key has a spring pushing it down against the tone hole so if it's coming up with your G#, then the A key spring is broken or the G# adjustment screw has bored into the A key and is dragging it along with it. I'm betting the spring is broke. Take the G# and A key off - does the A key have a spring? Is it in one piece and does it bend nicely at the end making a soft touch against the body? This is where I'd start looking. If that doesn't work, grab my free Emergency Repair Guide at repairmasterclass.com and reach out to me in the help section there with some pictures. I'm happy to help more.

@@mariasandieson3541 E6000 is great stuff for certain applications, this is not one of those. The reason contact cement works so well is its ability to hold well onto any object it’s allowed to dry on and then it holds like mad to itself when slightly dry. Go with contact cement and you’ll be happy.

Depends on what's wrong but start by looking at any springs that have come off. Then move to the screws/rods on either end - have they been over tightened? Test this by turning the slot in screw head counter-clockwise by one hour (if the slot points to 10, move it to 9. That's all). If the keys are still bound up then I'd guess the rod has been bent inside that set of keys and it needs to be seen by a nerd like me, it's not an easy fix. Good luck and let me know if I can be of service to you.

@@1320_ikimasho Yup, but it’s possible… sorta.

@@oner29081976 You’re welcome.

@@kelvinmarshall9108 The hair may be stretched out among other possibilities.

@@moonwhatever21 Contact cement to hold the cork on, paraffin wax to seal the cork then Tech-Grease as a slippery lubricant to finish it off.

@@lordneeko You should check out Lynn Hannings’ course on bow repair: training.unh.edu/programs/unh-violin-craftsmanship-institute

@@rdrodriguez05 Sure: www.repairmasterclass.com has all the course options on the home page including the apprenticeship.

Here's the direct page: www.repairmasterclass.com/Apprenticeship

@@QuickPLC-kh5of That’s completely understandable! It is hard to believe, but it does make a difference. The bridge’s shape is not by accident, it’s on purpose as tonal vibrations move through the bridge in predictable ways. When we remove material in some of those locations, we enhance the sound by removing mass that would otherwise soak up sound. When we get really nerdy, we can affect the sound on the inside two strings quite a bit, and change the responsiveness of the instrument as well. Good luck on your bridge fitting. It’s a challenge, but with the right instruction you can do great things!

1st guess is the screw at the end of your flute - where the foot joint goes on - is too tight preventing the F# key from moving. My next guess would be the springs to either your F# or F key have come off and need to be simply put back in place - watch this video for more: ruclips.net/video/oHO2dMF4PsM/видео.html. My last guess would be the adjustment screws between the F, E, D and the F# key are not set accurately (and these are really precise adjustments). Explore these options 1st and let me know how it goes. If not, take it to a tech you trust in your area. If you don't have a tech you trust, reach out and I'll help you find one or have you send it to me.

@@reallyoldtom9352 Absolutely. I do this often when trying to get the glue in hard to reach places. Nuts are pretty accessible so I’ve never used it here, but yes, that can be done.

@@menchiesmuncher6900 The simple answer is, bend it to the right position. This is slightly more complicated than it seems but the free Emergency Repair Guide I offer explains it all. Find your copy at repairmasterclass.com

@@adruss-r4n Great idea!! You’re the one McGyvering your way through!

@@Arktid I’m impressed you’ve noticed this issue as it is a difficult problem to identify and harder to correct. Some instruments are just more prone to climate changes than others and often the cheaper the instrument the more prone it is (not always though) and no instrument is impervious to climatic changes. The first thing to try is keeping your instrument really well humidified. Depending on where you live, this can be very challenging. For instance, I live in the desert with 6% humidity. Maintaining 30% in the wood is a daily chore, but it sure helps. Another possibility (though not a great one) is having another bridge cut for it…. It’s not great but beats a new neck which it may need if the instrument is worth that effort.

@@repairmasterclass Wow! I didn't expect such a quick and detailed answer. Thank you, maestro! I would be happy to learn from you, but I'm afraid I live too far away and am burdened with some family circumstances. Thank You again!!

@@Arktid No worries at all. You could consider taking the Prep Tech Course which is fully online. Learn more at repairmasterclass.com.

Yup! There's a chance the Trill key is bent and if it is, you'll need a good tech you trust, but more than likely it's just the spring. Flit it back on there.

@@repairmasterclass just to make things clear, the trill key next to the c key is open and I use a piece of tape to shut it for a while, and I don’t see the screw that keep the other trill key shut, sorry I need this for band

@@xavierDalrymple-w7n There are new screw adjustments on your trill keys, just two screws that keep it on the instrument between the posts. The Springs are what keep the trill keys closed. So, if (when the tape is off) the trill key just flops around or is easily moved, then you don’t have a bent key (that would be great news!) but you have a spring off. There will either be (depending on how your flute was made) 2 springs at the top post (closest to the head joint) or one there and one at the other end of the key coming out of that post next to where the foot joint is attached. Both of these springs should be hooked onto a little nubby guy (that’s a technical term 😉) coming off the key and will pull the pad down on the tone hole. Let me know if that works otherwise I’ll film a video for you.

I filmed this video for you today. Check it out as it may answer more of your quesitons: ruclips.net/video/oHO2dMF4PsM/видео.html

Okay thank you

You need an adjustment then. Try it yourself as shown here or take it to a tech you trust.

@@edgargil8318 Interesting issue that should be fun for you to work out. Possibilities range from a simple soundpost adjustment (a likely culprit) to a top and back that are working against one another and need some serious attention. The bridge will refine the sound, but where you are hearing additional frequencies, it’s not just in the bridge. Take it or ship it to a shop you trust and let them help you sort it out.

@@fourpaws_21 there are a few online sources, JLSmithco.com, musicmedic.com or Fereesmusic.com

@@repairmasterclass Thank you so much 🙏

@@nylx08 Nope, it’s an Olds. Sure, Holton is in Elkhorn, WI (I used to use their factory whistle as my alarm clock I lived so close) and Olds is Ohio and Indiana based, but this horn was definitely built by Olds. It happens all the time and has been happening for a LONG time - one builder builds an instrument for another.