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@THEBOILEDONE now that I have a bench-mounted press, I completely agree. With the hand press, I never could get the feel right.

Thank you. I hope to get back to making videos soon.

If you're looking for general advice, you might want to check with the guys on one of the forums. I've never used it.

Was that with a lightweight projectile?

@@novicereloader 124 grain Xtreme RN

Thanks for the information. I just got a chronograph, so I should be able to eliminate some guesswork.

You're not crazy. I've really fallen behind on sharing lessons, and YT is likely to ban all of soon, anyway. I'm going to switch to Rumble with the other guys that I've been learning from. Thanks for the feedback!

I just followed you there.

@@novicereloader I'm not over there often but I will be eventually. Many of the channels I follow are already there as well. Mike.

That's ideal, but not possible with the Lee trimmer.

So far, I've tried five different projectiles from xtreme and they've been great. The only way to get better performance for my dollar is casting and powder coating for myself. I'm still looking for that perfect use for my CFE Pistol powder. I know it won't go to waste.

Absolutely. I've also learned that the perfect crimp is not nearly as important as I thought it was, since doing this video. Maybe for match ammo, it'd be worth sorting this carefully, again, but for plinking, I set for the trimmed length and the short ones get the bell taken out well enough to bring them into spec.

@@novicereloader If using range brass always run it through the Lee crimping die w/ the Bulge Buster kit installed. This will put your range brass back into SAAMI specs.

You're right about that. Every time. Haven't had push back yet.

That's a great result. Thanks for sharing knowledge.

Let us know what your results look like. The addition of a chronograph will give better data than I can with my tests.

That's actually what I was using.

But .040 swing in brass length is ridiculous 🎉 now ya got the bullet being pressed in either 40 thou. To deep , which brings up pressure, or the other side of the coin. Trim brass if not within .010 of eachother 🎉

@@caseykelso1 OAL isn't effected by the case length.

The crimp (when using a taper or roll die) is determined by the length of the brass, the thickness of the brass, and the diameter of the projectile. If you set up the crimp based on brass that was 2 thousandths from touching the trimmer, then do a piece that was long enough to be trimmed, your taper crimp can end up as a roll crimp. In the case of 9mm (where the mouth is the index) this can lead to several issues. The worst is actually dangerous: the roll crimp could allow some brass to end up in the throat with the projectile, which leads to pressure spikes.

As far as the second portion of your comment, that procedure for die setup can easily lead to the same problem and damage to the projectile.

Yep. Had that from the beginning. I sorted them that way, because it would not touch those shorter cases. Same issue with the Federal Cartridge brass in .223 Rem. The collet crimp negates the concern, however. Unless I pick up long range rifle shooting, I don't see a need for a more expensive trim tool.

My buddy has a Ruger American in .223 with a 1:10 twist rate. He is a new reloader, as well. We're going to explore the 40 gr Speer TNT in that gun. It and the 55gr were dangerous in the 1:7 barrel, but it appears they should be great for coyotes in his gun.

Thank you. It's great to have such a good gun that was built by a life-long friend.

I was thinking of printing a chamber fan for test days. I keep the shooting pace slow enough that I can hold onto the gas block.

Thank you, sir.

Thank you on both counts. It's good to be seen.

Hopefully, this remodel is going to be done soon. I want to get back to experiments.

What I tested was at the high and low limits of the published data. My concern would be that increasing the load would increase peak pressure without increasing sustained acceleration down the barrel. When I did this, I had only this powder and StaBall 6.5 to work with. I imagine the old data are no longer published because there are so many better ways to push that little pill. Nothing about the test suggests a safety issue, but everything I have now performs better. I will revisit 4227 either when I get a .357 magnum or an iron .224 mold to try very light zinc projectiles.

There is one thing I forgot to mention. That was a 16" A2 with a carbine length gas system. Given how fast that burn is, I bet (but have not tested) that a rifle length gas system would perform worse and a pistol would perform better. Either way a slower twist rate is probably more appropriate, too. In a later video I discussed getting that 1in7 to make Speer's varmint bullets do exactly what they warn about in their literature. Slow twist for light Speer bullets is much preferred.

That is an interesting idea. I wonder if there will be enough room to clear the projectile while still applying the needed pressure to undo the bell. Please let us know if you're successful and which die you do it with.

I will let you know what happens. Lol!

That is a classic 16.1 inch Colt barrel. I'm sorry for that insanely long wait for an answer...my excuse is in my channel name.

Hopefully, a chronograph will be part of my repertoire soon. The best I am able to do is guess, based on the published speeds from the manuals, the difference in barrel length, and if POI is generally where expected. In this case, I didn't have enough information from old published load data to even begin. According to Speer, those bullets are not sturdy enough for a 1:7 barrel above "around 2800 ft/sec". I got to see that with CFE 223 and this line of projectiles, as documented in my latest video. Until I have access to a bolt gun with a twist rate more in the 1:12 range, those are shelved. As for that powder, I was loading with the intention of making the gun function, and we got success. This test was done when 4227 was the only powder available to me. It will likely be shelved until I have something more suitable to use it in. A heavier bullet is out of the question with a powder that burns that fast. There's good reason no one publishes data for it anymore. I have other powders on the shelf that are far superior, now. This was a 16" barrel. There was just enough gas to run the gun.

I tailor the increments to whatever gives me five different options. I was doing ten, but that was using resources too fast. So, if the spread is 21 gr to 25 gr, I'd do one grain increments. If the spread is 20 gr to 22 gr, I'd do 0.5 gr increments. I think I'd get better data if I tested like FCJ or JRB, but I can only go out to 25 yards, for now.

@@novicereloader I see. Thank you for your insight of how you do your charge weight increments. I think I'll tailer it like that to my pistol loads. My rifle loads, I do .3 increments now...used to do .5 grain increments until I decided to try JRB.

@Andy Prairie Dog now that I have more .224 projectiles, I may copy JRB, again. The guy's definitely squared away.

I'm going to be switching to Berry's for a while, since I got a deal. I hope they're close to as good as Hornady.

@@novicereloader I've heard those Berrys 223 55gr are as good as any other for blasting ammo 👌

Thank you! I just looked at your channel. I'll check out your videos.

Thank you. As a kid, there were a lot of moves, so I decided that I didn't want to move often as an adult. We were in that last house almost 15 years.

@@novicereloader I have been in this house for 14 years or more now

Hello, again, Sir!

The trouble is that everything works so well in the Colt that I can't immediately point to THE load like I can in 9mm.

Thank you for watching and commenting.

Thanks for the feedback. I definitely encourage everyone to sort out their load data for themselves. That being said, I definitely have seen better results with heavier bullets recently. I think the CFE Pistol requires higher pressures to get the really good performance it's known for. There will be more range reports soon.

Thanks for the info.

Thanks, man.

That just about sums it up.

I enjoy the process. I should've started this years ago.

I appreciate the good advice I'm getting from all of you.

Thanks. I agree with you for my short videos, for sure.

Thanks for the encouragement. I think I need to start setting up the phone to get a steady shot, at least.

You, as well!

I honestly think that the Factory Crimp Die for my .223 Rem is much more forgiving. I've already had great results with mixed headstamps that have as big a difference in length as what causing me a headache with the 9mm. Maybe it's more of a beginner issue, too.

It wasn't last I checked, but one will find its way into my kit very soon.

One for 9mm will be in the next order from Midway.

For sure. It was easy to get right on some other 9mm brass that was longer. I trimmed it all to the same length and it all went together really nicely. This made the expander die feel the same for each section, so I think this will solve the issue.

Thank you, Sir! Correct me if I'm wrong. Are you in Canada?

@@novicereloader Yes Sir! We had "Our Day" on July 1st, as usual, everybody just slept in. haha

Here, everyone sleeps in on the 5th.