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Mine is the same did you get a fix?

Turn it off..change the filter or just unscrew it..wait abit like 2 mins..turn it back on..should be OK.

Hi, you can buy the impeller from EBay there’s quite a few sellers, (just search for clever spa yellow impeller) I believe the sizes are by the colour code, each colour is different a size, unfortunately, I can’t see any sizes within these seller’s Description on these sites, they are quite cheap under £10 pounds, I would take a risk and purchase one, I hope this helps, regards William

Hi Nathan, this is a difficult one to put my finger on, if the the main switch is tripping then it could be a number of things, if you’re competent in getting the main box out (there is some videos on RUclips showing how to take it out from the hot tub) first check the electrical connection in the control panel hasn’t dislodged, if ok then start with the electric voltage transformer (black box) main wire coming in shows 230V AC and the other side should show 12 V coming out (pink wire) if your not getting any voltage change the transformer, if you are getting voltage then open the cover black cover (4 screws) which as the motherboard and the wires that go to the control panel if your competent you can check if there is voltage going out to the control panel Another thing the that frequently causes the voltage to trip is when the air outlet blocks ( stuck air valve or bent outlet air pipe ) causing air back flow and trips air pump, you should be getting the control panel lights on when you reset the main ON switch before press any buttons on the panel, if you get light on start by pressing the water pump flow - then heating - then bubbles if it trips out on any one of those then that will be the cause, also check all components haven’t got any water on them especially the controls panel, please get back to me and I will try to help you if you don’t find the cause, regards William

Hi Paul, when the air pump is running in side the housing it passes through the none return valve (see my video) it running down and out through a connection pipe which feeds both the bubbles and connection air outlet, which you use the black pipe to feed air back into the tube outside wall to inflate, Its most likely to be a air leak from the Wall of the Spa, When you blow up the wall and remove the black pipe there is a none returnable seal on the air inlet (this will leak if it not screwed up tightly, Make sure the caps are secured, check the bottom pipe clip isn't loose (under the housing), The best way to test for a leak if you are struggling to find the leak is the same way as testing a car tyre, buy a big cheap kids padding pool and turn the spa on its side inside the padding pool (you will possibly need two persons to help you) and rotate to see if there is any bubbles PLEASE BE AWARE, you don't wet the control panel, You can also do this test by submerging the area around the housing box ( bottom of Spa) but NO MORE THAN 6 INCHES as the housing as legs and won't get any water in the main box (again check my video) you can buy Spa repair kit online and most other parts on ebay, I hope this helps regards William

Hiya Paul, did you find a fix for this issue, mines doing the same

I was told that the inside had a puncture. So was unsure, just couldn't get it to blow up. I found a cheap cleverspa inner on eBay. It was a black one and was £85. Good luck.

Hi, if the pump is running, the air should be going through the tube with the none returnable valve. If it is going through and down the pipe, check it hasn't creased at the bottom of the housing (common fault) if the pump is not running it needs to be checked, it gets electricity to it.

The propeller spins one way 360 degrees, clockwise in order for the water to flow through the inlet

Hi Friend, I won’t be able to give you a definite cause, this could be a number of problems, from a loose wire” earthing to ground or water damage in the electrical system even a faulty heater/ propeller motor, you do need to get this checked out by a electrical engineer or a person who is competent with electrical equipment, I am sorry I can’t help you any further

Thank you!

Sounds like the heating element is tripping the hot tub, I've had this problem on many different tubs

Hi friend, firstly I'm not an expert on all the parts in the cleverspa housing, put I can give you my honest opinion, I have checked the two switches, the top one (the smallest) is a overheating breaker switch, you should be able to get continuity, the second switch (the biggest) is a micro switch, you won't get continuity when testing these terminals, because this only activated if the heating element gets to a high temperature, in the heating housing, in-line with the back of the microswitch you can see a small slight hollow, if the element gets to hot then this will melt and the pressure of the water pushed a small plunger up to activate the switch and this will shut off the heating element system, I would check the heating element works properly

I also meant to say that if you Google Zing Ear G5t16, there is plenty of options to purchase one, it's easy to take the switch out the black switch from the gray plastic by drilling out the two silver holding pin (replace with small nut and bolts)

@@williameccleston3845 Thanks William, ive now done a continuity test on the water pump which was good, how do i check if the magnet with impeller isi faulty?

@user-hp6ri9vn8o Hi, can you let me know if you're getting water flowing through the inlet (bottom) & outlet? from cold if its not following then it mostly likely to be the magnetic propeller (yellow) or even the filtering pump it's self, you won't be able to open the pump as it a sealed unit, you can test if your getting 12v through the pink wire going to the unit, if you are getting voltage then replace the magnetic propeller, which you can buy on ebay ( make sure its the same colour & size propeller ) if it following and no restrictions (leave the filter off on the inlet if it as one) and heating up then cuts out its most likely to be the temperature thermostat (you can see it sticking down if you look inside the outlet) it easy to replace, failing any of these its possible to do with the motherboard which as most of the sensors and diodes, which I can't help you with,

(Hi it’s most likely to be a faulty temperature sensor, I would change it, check out my video which explains where the thermostat and sensors are I’ve cut and pasted below the recommendation from a personal working in the spar industry see if this helps, (The HL error often suggests the appliance has detected its over temp (42 degrees or above), and cuts out to prevent anyone being harmed by the water temp exceeding the max set temp (40). On most of the Cleverspa range there is a reset button on the side of the pump, power off the pump at the wall then see if you can locate the reset button, it should push in and hear a click and then power the spa back on and the fault should clear. Where the fault does not clear the issue will be due to a faulty temp sensor and that would mean sending the pump away for repair or arranging a warranty claim with Cleverspa.) Hope this helps regards William

@williameccleston3845 mate thanks so much for replying so fast you're a legend... massive silly question is though , where is this reset switch.. I'm not sure where to look really

@williameccleston3845 mine is the one with a small black on/off(test) switch near mains plug and all built in heater n filter

Yes it's sounds like the thermostat is the falt or the water isn't flowing fast enough through the water inlet and outlet, check there isn't anything stuck in the inlet near the propeller, remove the filter while testing, if the water is flowing OK its most likely to be the thermostat

@williameccleston3845 ahhh OK.. is it easy to replace the thermostat? And do you know the best place to get one ? You should be on commission bud

Can you please explain the lip/ cap in more details. Was the none return value spring stuck, Like the one in my video

First of all, what make of hot tub have you got, My videos show the Cleverspa brand, so if yours is the same, the problem is most likely to be the seal on the water inlet, Carefully unscrew the inner plastic nut and check the condition of it and the rubber seal (These are prone to splitting) also check the tube lining around the inlet were the seal sits as not creased (This can happen when the inlet plastic nut has been undone and re-tightened) I have used two seals before on this issue, make sure that you put it on tight to prevent leaks, but be careful don’t over tighten the plastic nut as it can easily crack, if it’s still leaking then it’s most likely to be a seal of crack in the housing box itself, it will need to be stripped down to check what the problem is, hope this helps

Hi William, clever spa onxy. I have tightened both "nuts on liner" for inlet and outlet. It only leeks if water is above the water outlet/jet. Now strange thing is that if the air jets are going there is no leek at all, as soon as you turn off the air the leek comes back. I'm so frustrated ha ha 🤣

@@paulduncan1188 Hi Paul I’m not a expert on the onxy spar, but I agree with you that this possibly is only a small thing, I think the reason why you’re not seeing a leak is that its pumping faster though the air jet pipe other than when it is stop, if you’re able to remove the a side panel or lift up the tube and check the pump’s air outlet pipe connection to the airflow jets from loose clip connection or crack in pipe, It’s most likely backfilling water into the air outlet pipe, sorry I can’t be more helpful, regards William

Hi Phil, I am William, I take it from your comment that the heater is not heating up to the right temperature, this could be a number of things, the first thing I would check is the Thermostat in top water outlet section and make sure the propeller is spinning fast (check my 3rd video) if there is anything at all stopping the full water flow then the heater thermostat will stop the heat element from carrying on heating (Safety device) it sounds like the heat element is heating up then switching off, take any filter off (bottom) the inlet and test the outlet water flow (Top) is flowing at a good rate, if slow then it’s likely to be the propeller or its motor, if still the same, check the heating element voltage for voltage flow, it’s probably easiest to replace with a new one, hope this helps you

Sorry about the delay in responding (away from home) if you haven’t already fixed the issue, I would take the box unit out of the hot tube, take the top section off (see my video) then check if the main wires coming on the main lead from the breaker ON/OFF, check that you have a live feed (red) you should be getting 230V ac supply, before the wires (black & Red) convert to 12 volts 500mA in the transformer wires coming out of the transformer black box, please check if there is any lights on the instrument panel on the top of the Hot Tub first, if you have any lights on then it’s unlikely to be loss of power, ( if you are not competent please don’t attempt this job and get a electrician to fix it) hope this helps regards William

First thing I would do is check the air tube valve isn’t stuck closed (as shown in my video, it’s the most common problem) check if the spring is opening and closing and you can blow air thought the tube (it only flows one way) second try running the pump without the top piece on for a few seconds to see if any air flow is coming out of the pump( if yes then the problem is probably in the Plastic pipe connection going into the inside wall of the HotTube (check the plastic pipe hasn’t bent at the bottom, which will prevent airflow into the HotTub wall) if the pump isn’t running, No Sound or air flow without the top piece on then it probably is a electrical problem, which should be showing up as a fault code

Hi Martin, this is a difficult one, firstly it sounds like something between the voltage regulator and the motherboard isn't working, you need to check whether the system inside the pump housing as power bye check from the LCD backwards to the motherboard then if there isn't any power check from the voltage regulator to the motherboard,

@@williameccleston3845 Thanks, I will have to get the whole unit out and do some checks then.