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First, try making large scale planes, like 1/32. Then try making armor in 1/35th scale, 2 things outside your box. Larger scale means many areas like crevices showing plastic. Thus preshading.

You’re going to the top

Your models all look very clean and pristine. The guys who do all the printing and pre shading are trying to produce a final result that looks like a specific plane or tank that they have reference pictures of. You can’t get that kind of result easily without primer. I think that’s where the difference lies.

6:30 I'm glad you explained what you're working on and didn't leave it to the viewer's imagination!

re the thumbnail: do not use milliput to stick a milliput box to your head, even as a joke. it can permanently remove your forehead

Spot pn MR.❤🤘🤘

All hobbies are full of misconceptions and nonsense. The aileron thing is quite funny. As much as people like building model aircraft not all know how they work and the names for the components. Terms like "back wings" ( tail plane ) and "flaps " for the elevator come to mind. How people can get all stressed out about the colour of aircraft that no longer exists with reference material only in the form of black & white photographs baffles me? Fun content. Subscribed

Great video. The use of black primer has come from the car customizers who customize real cars, they have mostly switched to black primer mainly because black shows up faults in their body work. For plastic or die-cast models it really is not necessary. If i use primer I use light grey dupli-color or white primer.

At 13:10 or so, my two cents' worth on this is "di (that is a short 'i') CAL" (as in the first syllable of "calibrate).

Thank you for sharing this.

Came for the models, stayed for the crazy humor. 😁 This P-12 is gonna be a beauty when she's done.

The old olive drab poser. Been there. I was trying to match it for a Ford Mutt. I got a book on them by Squadron Signal and they had a table listing the FS colours so it was just a case of matching the code to the paint. On planes I always used to use 155. Even if you did get the wrong shade, you could call it weathering! Nice to see your kit really taking shape.

The correct Olive is Olive 22. Currently available from AK. RC023 For 1/32 scale, maybe a 5-10% tint with white will give you a great scale effect. The Yellow is Yellow 4. The best match is "Grabber Yellow", a Ford car color from the 1970's. Again, add 5-10% white tint to it. Model Master use to have it, or try Model Car World out of North Carolina. They have a great line of Military colors as well. The Monogram Books, short of the original Munsell Ceramic chips, is the best you will find anywhere. ANA colors were developed after WWII started. US Pre-war aircraft would not have carried them

Love your channel sir! Very refreshing approach to the hobby. 😊

Hello there mate 👍 greetings from the UK great video monkey and all happy modelling everyone 😀🍺

Haha, your Canadian Tax Service can't be as bad as the US IRS. Enjoy the battle !

Please tell us again the title of the book you are using as your painting referance. Thanks

Greetings and salutations fellow earthling, space traveller and styrene worshipper! Like the t-shirt and the movie..... Oh....and the video! (I knew that I forgot something!)

So many colors of olive drab depending on when and what was painted. Liked the video by the way ❤❤❤

Your thumbnail got you the like, because it actually made me laugh out loud! Now I will watch your video and if I don't like it, you can keep the like😂😂😂😂

I did sign up on the petition and chipped in 10 bucks as well so I encourage everyone else to think about signing on. And just one more thing to add ... Monkeys! I love monkeys! Cheers Andy

Oh and I have a correction on a previous comment I made on your last video I incorrectly stated that on pre-World war 2 by planes they would add aluminum oxide to the paint to protect the fabric turns out after some research, I was wrong! it was not aluminum oxide but rather finally ground aluminum (by the way various countries and manufacturers used different compositions The French used 42% aluminum powder by weight to ratio to the dope so there was quite a bit of aluminum in that dope) into a powder and it did give a reflective quality to the paint later on I'll post the link and the article on the website that I found that goes into great detail about the process and why it was done My research also shows that it was a lot like metal flake paint in fact if you took a sample of this dope paint and put it under a microscope you could actually see the individual aluminum flakes in the different layers very interesting article another interesting side effect of having this aluminum flakes applied to the dope is that depending on the time of day and the angle of light when they photograph the plain it could change the overall color or hue of the paint which would explain why a lot of times aircraft from this time period, There's so many conflicting opinions about what color things were because the photograph was partially reflecting back these light from the aluminum.

Olive drive is a sticky subject I'll give you a perfect example The Douglass world cruisers are technically considered to be painted Olive drab but when you look at one in real life it becomes very obvious that they are a dark chocolate color so olive drab meant different things at different times and with different nations

We should only have one scale for everything... by it 1/32 or 1/35

I had one, I loved it.

Amazon sells a dental vacuum forming machine for $100 that is miles ahead of the Mattel unit heats up fast and no pumping involved.

You're building a beautiful example of this aircraft, can't wait to see the finished model, now about color your choice of International Orange I think it's spot-on it fits with the garish, outlandish high visibility paint schemes of this time period, and besides since there is no actual color photographs or real life example in existence you as the model builder have been given artistic license! Now if you wanted to go to the Library of Congress or the military archives in Washington DC and sift boxes and boxes of documents I'm sure somewhere in a warehouse or in the Library of Congress is the actual color code and formula used for that aircraft I'm sure it exists! but it's buried somewhere in a warehouse Visa Vie Raiders of the Lost Ark😂 the other problem with black and white photography (as you explain) the type of camera, the time of day, the amount of light, the type of film all affected the grayscale or hue of the photograph and that's black and white photography is extremely unreliable to try and use for color palettes however there are some new tools that you can use to guide you there are online free AI powered conversion software that can take a black and white photograph and using Ai and it can guess based on the grayscale and known color composites AI can make a very educated guess as to what the actual colors are and it can colorize a black and white photo for you, I've used this before and it's pretty damn good in fact there are many colorized black and white videos and photos on RUclips using this AI technology and for the most part they get it right, just a thought you might want scan that black and white photo that you have of your aircraft upload it to the AI colorization website and see what AI thinks the color is! Now as far as the controversy about orange yellow versus Chrome yellow paint wasn't just used for identification on these aircraft, but it was also used to protect the surfaces the wings and tail surfaces, early biplanes were covered with linen (linen unfortunately is very susceptible to sun damage) which over a short period of time would actually dry rot the fabric to help counter this damage from the Sun (a lot of people don't know) in this time period they added aluminum oxide to the paint that they used to paint the wings and surfaces so that's why it's called Chrome yellow it's actually yellow paint with aluminum oxide added to it (the same aluminum oxide that they painted the Hindenburg with) for the same reasons so this further complicates matters because unless you're using a paint that actually has aluminum oxide in it you won't get the same Hue and reflection, the replicate this with most model building paint but you have to add the aluminum oxide yourself and trust me the difference is very noticeable the aluminum oxide added to the paint creates almost a metal flake appearance-model car builders know all about this!!! So here's the point where model aircraft Builders from this time period can take a lesson from model car builders when dealing with metal flake paints. I learned about this because I'm building a large-scale Nieuport 28 World War 1 fighter and it turns out that they were adding aluminum oxide even to the camouflage colors even in World War 1, it took extensive research and finally I found a website where this World War 1 model builder dealt with the subject of aluminum oxide and its effect on various color palettes he even gives the color profile and the ratios to use and I can tell you that it definitely changes the appearance of the color, as I've learned as a lifelong model builder building a model is 20% building, 80% research and 200% staring at the model trying to figure out how am I going to do this? LOL happy model building my friend!

Man your battle station set up is awesome not a mess. So much room, all those shelves . 😱

43 now. Started when I was mid 30’s so not long . Only 9 models in that time and stopped until this year after long time away. I’ve prob done all the faults in this video and lol about them as I watched. But it’s been really fun building even if I’m doing it wrong or let’s say not as efficient . So glad I’m back. I love playing me some video games but I def love this slow “boring” “old man” hobby just as much. Great video. I say “D Cal” too haha. From Ontario, Canada not the south.

One of the best vids ive seen .You are a natural and very funny 5*

Dude, you are spot on about everything you said about the hobby. You are my type of modeler, straight to the point and I love it. In my opinion the "weathering effects" just looks unreal and yes, my table is just as cluttered as yours.

I would paint that stripe an orangey/yellowy/reddy colour!!😂!

Oh cool you jam out.

Excellent! My F4B build of this kit went very well!😊

It's coming along nicely. For what it's worth, I agree with your reasoning on the colour of the stripe and when you started listing the various colours, I thought that orange would be the most likely. As you said, if nobody knows if it was red, orange or yellow, nobody can say your choice is wrong. When I'm faced with rigging, I use the method I learned from the RUclips channel by SteamGeezer, which involves making and installing turnbuckles and rigging between those rather than directly into the plastic. Adding turnbuckles before attaching the wings makes the whole process a lot easier, even if it's not possible to leave the top wing off, which I feel is the secret to rigging a biplane.

"Lookie, ma! No preshading!" 🤣🤣🤣

The great colour conundrum! If I'm doing a movie character, I look for well lit photos of their original costume. Then I load the pic into PhotoShop and select what I need with the colour picker. This gives me an RGB code, I then put this into a site that translates that into an RAL paint colour. From there I find a colour converter which matches the RAL number with available model paints. However, in the case of a 1/35 Ford Mutt I was doing, I got a Squadron book on it which gave all the Federal Standard codes which I then matched to model paints. In your case, being as nobody can seem to agree what the colours were, anything you choose should look right.

Is there not a museum somewhere that can assist with the paint?

Fantastic channel mate

How about a green stripe?

Hello sir great to see your back and as crazy as ever some nice modelling there mate 👍 all the best from the UK and happy modelling everyone 😀

I agree with you 100 percent I have a 1/32 scale revel Apache still in box and a takom 1/35 Apache late addition when displayed together they will look stupid 😡

Looking good and thanks for that tip about drilling the rigging holes. I wish I’d known that several bi-planes ago.

It might be squadron dependent as to color assigned. It looks like it will be quite a stunning plane when finished.

Looking good Andy! I have been enjoying this build and have had lot's of excellent nap time between episodes. Looking forward to watching you struggle with thin decal for the pin striping, does that stuff curve at all?

I dont mind box opening videos. Helps to see if someone else has wasted their money so I don't have to. As for black primer. I do use it on ships. Helps with the small scale to allow faint markings to pop when you have painted it.

On the Zero the starboard navigation lens was blue, it had a yellow bulb that created a green light when lit.

That's a thing with me too..... flowers have petals...models have decals......same pronunciation... Thanks for the video. I recognise a lot of points you make !

Hello Andy, I just discovered your channel and decided to start from the beginning. I love your approach. I totally agree about background music--and disembodied hands--snipping parts from a frame for god's sake???. I detest 99.9% of in box reviews especially from the so called pundits who "specialize" in showing off donated models in box reviews, the vast majority which never get built. I use Tamiya Super Fine Grey or White for priming aircraft these days although I was swayed in the past to use black primer, mostly to my regret. I've also abandoned pre-shading. I'm even going to give you pass for mispronouncing decals in respect for all my Canadian relatives, they can't pronounce the word correctly either. 😉 Anyway, I appreciate your opinions and the way you deliver them. Model on! I subscribed by the way.