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Painting and Weathering; Simple & Subtle
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2024
- Easy, no-nonsense painting and weathering without the need for messy and time-consuming methods. Discussing primers, undercoats, pre-shading, panel line washes, chalk pastels, acrylic and enamel paints and more.
Decals by Astra Decals: www.dacoproducts.com/
Lots of pictures of the RNLAF "Orange Jumper" F-16: www.net-maquettes.com/picture...
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I enjoyed the video, Mr. Driver’s License. 🙂 Thanks for your efforts.
Many thanks for the feedback and glad you enjoyed the video!
Nicely done. I love your straight forward approach.
Thank you, very much appreciated!
You and I share the same outlook on model building, except I say dee-cal instead of deckle...lol. I too prefer the build process over paint, and I try to capture realism by using subtle weathering techniques. Though impressed with the artistry, I find that many current model builders go overboard with all the trendy techniques that ultimately make the end result look cartoon-like. Thank you for showing that subtle restraint is still relevant. P.S. you are one of two scale model related videos that I watched within the hour that used "Zeitgeist"!
That's too funny, and here I thought I was being original using the word zeitgeist! Many thanks for the positive feedback.
Very informative video 📹 👍 Glad l was there 🎉🎉🎉
Thank you! I'm well into the next video and I'll get it uploaded as soon as I can.
I think I know the retailer you were mentioning ;-P
Lol he's a heckuva guy. 😄
Another great video, and one I wholeheartedly agree with. I do sometimes think that special effects models may have been responsible for things looking overdone. On a big screen, a model that isn't very detailed will look fake, whereas one with lots of detail looks incredible. You only have to look at the opening scenes of Star Wars to see what I mean. Ironically though, it you try to make a scale model look like an effects model, it looks fake!
If you're building a model of something that is real, make it look real!
That's a good point, I hadn't thought of that. Even the CG airplanes look like they're pre-shaded and over weathered! Many thanks for the comments.
Looks great and an approach I totally agree with.
Hopefully the "Rant Pack" gets the message, although I find that Hope is usually just a town east of Chilliwack.
Cheers!
Thanks fella! It would seem there are those who just revel in stirring the shit for whatever reason. Perhaps it gives meaning to their lives as they sit in their mom's basement playing Call of Duty and/or watching porn. 😆
Your common sense approach has thrown me into a cataclysmic psychotherapy meltdown. Just kidding! Great points. Enjoying the channel. Nice build.
I recommend a good stiff drink of tea, it cures any and all meltdowns! Many thanks for the comments.
Not sure why you had to explain yourself.... I loved your first video and could see your points were well made.... Excellent build and keep up the simple style. (not simple simple 😃). Looking forward to your video on decalling 😅
Thanks so much, I really appreciate it. I honestly didn't think I'd have to explain myself either, but apparently there is a small minority of people out there that require explanations! 🙄
Returned to the hobby in 2018 after 40 years. Learned and practiced many of the latest paint techniques with an identical outlook as what you cover in this video, Andy. Have used primers to experiment and a few builds that are required for light blocking/adhesion like a in the works, 1/350 Polar Lights Star Trek Enterprise refit.The use of paint to create the illusion of stressed skin on aircraft is one of the figure painting crossovers that can never be as convincing as modifying a plastic model kit to have a three dimensional stressed skin surface when the goal is to mimic reality. I prep the plastic with fine sanding-polishing, alcohol wash. If there is masking to be used over paint an adhesion promoter wash is used on the plastic. I keep layers of paint to a minimum or control the smoothness of the surfaces to avoid an out of scale orange peel finish. There are examples of model builds on my channel and a RAF official training film for preparing/painting aircraft. The importance of drag reduction by having a smooth, clean finish. The use of putty and primer filler on high speed aircraft is shown as well. We live in Burlington, Ontario since 1967. As you know the Canadian Warplane Heritage Museum is close by. The golden age of airshows there was from the late 1980s until 2000. Lots of warbirds from WW2 to modern. Their aircraft fly close and sometimes over our house turning back to the airport.
Thanks for the comments. Rather strangely, when my family emigrated from England we first lived in Burlington - in 1967!
3469 Windsor Court. I knew you had lived in Burlington. We may have played with our Gerry Anderson Thunderbird die cast toys back then. My favourite was Thunderbird 2. Mom (7 years old) and her family lived in London, England during the start of the Battle of Britain before moving to a safer location. Moved to Canada in 1947. I owned a business designing/building custom motorcycles. Retired a year ago. The site is still up until Feb.1, the link is on my channel and images of model builds are at the bottom of the DESIGN page if interested. Working on twenty kits, mostly aircraft in 1/32 and 1/24. Three are 1/32 Tamiya F-16Cs. Two will be posed in flight on custom stainless steel stands. Paint schemes of a splinter and blizzard aggressor using Two Bobs decals. the third in 'Have Glass'. Almost finished one of two 1/24 Kinetic P-47Ds that is built to represent the recent rebuilt plane from AirCorps Aviation. Decals from Draw Decal. They offer G-IRTY the Silver Spitfire markings in different scales. I have one of four 1/24 Airfix Mk.IXcs that will be done as G-IRTY.@@warpedplastic
So happy to see that I'm not the only one who thinks the exaggerated panel lines and weathering so fashionable today are unrealistic. IMO, pre- and post-shading is a waste of time at best and cartoonish at worst.
Well put and I couldn't agree more! Many thanks for the comments.
Very informative video. Would the “No primer needed” also apply if I paint the whole model with Acrylics?
Absolutely. Two out of the three colours I used on the F-16 were Gunze acrylics and they both went over bare plastic with no issues. It can vary by brand though, Vallejo acrylics I find sometimes don't adhere as well without primer but this isn't usually a problem unless you mask over it or handle it a lot.
@@warpedplasticthanks for your reply, looking forward to more videos!
Hi. A breath of fresh air. So many models so over done. I think i'm perhaps even subtler and simpler.
As an aside though, could preshading be used to indicate the ripples in a fabric covered AC?
Many thanks for the comments. I have seen pre-shaded fabric aircraft but I really don't like it personally. Actual wrinkles look far better than trying to simulate them with paint.
@@warpedplastic another skill to learn.
I beg to differ with your assertion that primer is unnecessary. While it may seem dispensable in some situations, it serves a vital purpose, especially in revealing flaws that might otherwise go unnoticed. Take, for example, sanding gouges; even the slightest imperfections become glaringly apparent with just a topcoat. Moreover, primer aids in addressing issues with certain types of paint, like semi-gloss and gloss, where the smooth surface can cause paint to pool or crawl. Thus, while there may be exceptions, primer proves invaluable in achieving a flawless finish and addressing potential problems preemptively.
I believe I mentioned that very thing in the video and I also agreed with it, in principle. However, as I said, it isn't necessary to cover the whole thing in primer just to check seams and imperfections. You only need to cover the small areas you want to check, not the whole thing. I also mentioned the use of undercoats, which don't necessarily have to be primer, under gloss paints.
@@warpedplasticif you primer only the seams then your surface won’t be a uniform colour and you’ll in essence pre shade the model.
@@vmoney9106 Not with a grey or light coloured paint. And if your paint is dense enough it won't show through. Pre-shading only works with light coats of paint.