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Great to catch up on your videos Steve - looks like you’ve had a real drama with the engine! Watched this one about the rear subframe with interest as its a project i’d like to tackle on my 840 someday. Reassured to see the components come good after blasting and people like Ed and Wolfe keep our cars alive with their products. Doesnt feel like such a daunting prospect now when i do finally get there. Hope you feel more confident now about taking on the bodywork! Picking my car up from storage next week hopefully to enjoy for the summer

Great video, thanks for your continued updates!

Haven't seen any powder coating that didn't flake off over time..

I'm liking the more frequent updates! Keep going!

there is a 132mm Long Pin 12mm OD for 88mm L, and 8mm OD the remainig 32mm length. That should have come with your timing kit, it goes through the Upper Sump housing and into only one of the holes in the Flex plate Starter ring gear disc which can be installed temporarily, Picture of the pin on fleabay FYI. used the old gasket to space the upper sump out for checking then put the new gasket during final assembly after fitting lower outter timing cover the pin locks the crank

How do you know the orientation and the place of each piece you took out and what does each cable does in the engine bay and in the interior, bcuz am trying to be a lil mechanic also if you know how to get the offical repair manual and how to stuff like taking the engine out , arain thank you and god bless you ❤

Huge fan really good keep it up bro 🎉❤

Your channel, and "another BMW channel" are without doubt my favourite viewing of all time. I'm not a BMW car builder, I would on BMW bikes, specfically the K series. Keep going with your quest for perfection, we all know you're going to get there. We'll be along with you on your journey. Please don't give up Steve.

This is not the correct way to fix the issue

Nice car ,you've got there geezer. That's a nice thorough restoration. You're really giving it the tlc it's needed for sometime now. You can really see the transformation and what a contrast😊 Nice one👍

Small Claims Court send them a letter 1st telling them that you will take them to court within 14 days... Little lesson before taking a head to get it skimmed make measurements with pictures beforehand.. measuring the casting to a known point at 4 points from the deck...

A good solution to a mess not of your creation. Good thing you spotted it. I hope all goes well. Thanks for the cool videos. I'd love to see the car some time. My inlaws are in Navan so I'm in your general area at times. Keep going and I loom forward to the next update.

Small claims court be an option?

Doesn’t take any rod bearings?!!

Jezus.. Just ran across your video. Rather than creating a small weight imbalance with the pistons shaved to different conditions, and different quench patterns, it would seem to be better to find yet another machine shop - somehow insure the work/block, and have them simply mill both banks flat again enough to use a thick custom copper head gasket in your defined thickness. (Granted + ss o-ringing the cylinder). Custom copper (reusable) head gaskets should be reasonably easy to source as long as a maker can have a DFX file of the OE gasket. Yes, you don't use the OE MLS gasket anymore but at this point..... it would seem like an option. Then IDK if it's worth using the courts to make the other machine shops pay for what they fudged up.

Takk!

Hi Steve, good to see you again. Real bummer about the block, it's hard to find people you can trust to do a proper job nowadays. even Streten at M539 has fallen foul of bad machining. I know it's probably not your style, but I think I might have mentioned to the machine shop in question that letting 8K+ people know not to take their engine parts there may have at least warranted a reply. I am thinking that the discrepancy amounts we are talking about are not enough to cause a mis-alignment problem with the inlet manifold, seeing as the heads will be slightly out of kilter. The pistons look better than original now with the new coatings, should turn out good in the end. I have completely re-built my rear subframe, you are right, there's a lot of work involved. I may be too late here, but when I did mine, 2 out of three of the "rose joint" bushings were available from Lemforder (they made the originals) at about 1/2 the price of BMW, and the third which is part of the top arm is now available exchange from Gerry Speechley at Phoenix Motorsport, again, cheaper than BMW but still very dear at £300 a side. He also does some nice re-enforcement plates for the rear shock mountings which have a common fault of metal fatigue cracks.

name of machine shop that did shenanigans work please?

Sorry to hear about all the issues you're having with the machining shops. I am really enjoying watching the progress you this project and can't wait to watch the work on the car body too. Forgive me for this, maybe, dumb question but won't the material removed from the pistons cause engine unbalance? Or is that so minor that the weight difference is negligible?

All of this just cause someone fed up the messurment and basicly ruined the block

Make sure your valves don't hit the pistons on number 5 and 6, because you removed 0.6mm from the top of the piston, not from the valve relief that was machined in the piston. The valve relief is 0.6 mm closer to the valve!

Interesting solution to a horrible problem. Hope it works out!

That's why you never machine engine parts if they are not fucked. For example if the block has an excessive amount of warp or twist beyond the accepted OE spec, you machine it because it's already fucked. If the heads are warped beyond accepted values you machine them because they are already fucked There is absolutely no gain in machining parts that are "good enough" I have a 3.2 VR6 Turbo engine that spits about 630HP which was rebuilt twice (I cracked some pistons because of high boost), and I have 30K km with it since the last rebuild. engine and head were never machined. I feel your pain :(

That's a shame about the issues you're having with these machining shops. I have no doubt that the engine will run like a dream once you're done with it. Looking forward to seeing it running!

This car will be finished in 46 years. Unfortunately I won't be here, but I appreciate what you're doing.

Compressor code?

Hi Steve - where do you source parts from - Im about to embark an a similar journey - TIA - Ben

Awesome job - just acquired a 91 manual with 106k miles which is a bit raggedy n 97 auto in pristine condition with 68k miles - still to decide what to do when I receive them - swap gearboxes! Anyhoo - hat parts sites did you use for your project? Tah much

Nice video. I'm a little pissed. Years ago the lenses were not available. I decided to put a little paint on moms old 745 and I polished the originals. Two days, seriously 2 days. They came out perfect and I shot them with clear poly but man I wished those lenses were available back then. KK

I’ve got the same color, mine is a 1991 with 72,000 miles! Breaks need to be redone along with a problem with battery drainage and a coolant leak! I haven’t drove it in 7 years!

Awesome vid. Cant wait to rip the v12 out of my e38

Thank you. I have a 2006 750Li and your video was spectacular. One of the best instructional videos I have seen. Will be tackling this job in the next few months. Thanks from Canada!

Hey Steve, thank you so much for your effort making this video. I'm currently rebuilding my M73 (750i from 1999). And I also did the honing like you do in the video, have also used the same laping compound. BUT: my cylinder walls do NOT turn out as dull as they should be / like they were before from factory. I still can see the cross hatching clearly. This should not be the case. I did some investigation and found out that its important to meassure the surface roughness of the cylinder walls afterwards etching. In case it is too thin (too less etching) the walls would be too soft so the pistons will literally scuff them up and completely destroy the block. I will do another round of laping but I'm concerned about the the real roughness of the walls.. Have you meassured your walls ?

Good job but unnecessary

Hi Steve, I came across your e31 restoration video which I’ve enjoyed tremendously. I have an 840ci that needs to be brought back to life. How do I enlist your expertise to achieve this? Thanks.

Без лишней музыки, хорошее видео thanks mister

Mix matching bearings is completely normal and in fact is a standard procedure on the newer bmw engine such as the n57 3.0diesel. Ask me how i know 😅

Im currently about to rebuild my m70 for my e34 touring project. I cannot say how helpful this video has been in preparation. Thank you so much for all the detail! I watched every second. Cant wait for the next.

Good morning Steve can you damage the pipes when you use that clamp instead of jubilee clips ? What is the full name of that engine cleaner you use please.

This car has the best looking automotive wood trim ever made

These aftermarket oil filter caps are always a gamble. Got a new one for my E38, couldn't screw it on. Went for an original part, fits perfectly. These are parts you better get original.

Great stuff as always, it irked me a bit that you did torque the oil filter but you decided to not torque the oil drain plug (which was right next to it and even has the same torque value😂). Look forward to the next one!

Loving your work as always, when can we expect the next video on the 850?

The e66 remains to be such a nice car!

Amazing Steve! This’ll help a lot of new owners with the E65/66s.

Andy feedback on using 5w40 instead of 0w30 or 5w30 ?

HI Steve, what do you think about the 730d or 740d for the same year model? I absolutely love that car but the very high expensive issues, made me not to buy it.

Hola Steve, saludos desde España!!

I'm thinking of repairing my hydraulic oil cooler the same way you did. Do you still happen to have a link for those cooling fins? Cheers,

Brilliant video , many thanks !