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That lead screw should work. According to amazon it's for an ender printer so should work. You may need to adjust the esteps in the printer settings. Also check that you have the lead screw secured to the motor

Sorry I didn't see your comment. As far as i'm aware you can't do that with this slicer. I would recommend Orca Slicer to do something like that.

Sorry I haven't responded to your post. I hadn't come across that issue, hopefully you have found resolution on that. If not I would down load the firmware off their website and reinstall it.

You can't do a color change with voxelmaker unfortunately. I would recommend Orcaslicer, create a printer with the built in Aquila x2 profile, then change the bed size and follow this video to finish the setup ruclips.net/video/pJBOIX33jlo/видео.htmlsi=EFrifbw8rvqaT-ZT guy is using Cura in the video but he is just showing printer settings, I find Prusaslicer and orca slicer easier to use and just better overall.

@@3dprintablesllc271 Spent hours looking yesterday but couldn’t find anything. Thank you I will give this a try 🙏🏻 🙏🏻

@@BadBoyTurnz lots more videos on those slicers than Voxelmaker, good luck

You can't change anything with the Pro. You can't even do a PID tune. Actually You may be able to it by writing the gcode commands in a text file, then change the extension from .txt to a .gcode and select print on your printer. I've never done it before and don't know if it will work with the Pro.

Hey, I'm so sorry I didn't see this sooner. Have you found the help you needed? EDIT: Just realized I responded to this logged into the wrong youtube account.

Now I'm logged in to the correct account. Let me know if I can help you with something but it's better to reply to the edwardMcrichy post, I don't monitor this channel as much as I should.

Sorry I don't understand your question. Are you asking how to add more filament profiles? Select custom profile to begin see 50 seconds into the video

No.

Yes just change the layer height, you may also need to change the first layer height as well though you could just stick with the default

Sorry I don't monitor this channel as much as I should, hopefully you figured it out, basically you don't slice you choose your print settings and then save the file and then it automatically slices once you've done that

Oh! I forgot to ad, that I have those wifi connection issues too. My router is around 4m away from the pinter and about 50cm from my laptop. I don't bother with it anymore, and just stick the USB in and run the print file off that :/

@@reapermansoldholdensixmech8675 I replaced my board and put in a different one and installed klipper, a better printer that way.

I'll try to make time for a tutorial some day, good idea.

​@@3dprintablesllc271Waiting for your tutorial too :) I want a stable connection via WiFi and full control ...

thanks for the comment. I also found the X2 to be very good for the low cost.

I have my printer in the garage, no other device I have has issues connecting to Wi-Fi, maybe the WiFi chip they use just sucks and is not powerful enough.

The lifting and lowering during the print sounds like z hop is on in the slicer. What slicer are you using?

@@3dprintablesllc271 , I’ve switch to using the Voxelab. Slicer and that has no issues

@@SimonPlatten I find that whenever I have issues with a slicer I just go back to the voxel maker slicer and the issues typically go away

that's in the next video ruclips.net/video/vcNnFY-9a8k/видео.html

Yeah, I was disappointed in the information they provided, or should I say lack of information.

Sorry for the delayed response www.voxelab3dp.com/free-slicers/voxelMaker

@@3dprintablesllc271 your fine. Thanks!

Thanks

I haven't seen a way to do that. In this case you probably need to use one of the other slicers like prusa slicer in order to do something like that. Check the printer menu you may be able to do it through the printer and not through the slicer

What you do is when it is at the spot you want it to change colors click pause, and then you can leave the print click auto unload then insert the filament then auto load. Then you can go back to the print section and click on the print you were just doing. Tell me if it works

nvm i was on voxelprint

Update there is

Not sure I totally understand your question, if you bring the sliced file into the slicer, as far as I know it only shows the sliced file and gives you no options to reslice. I think you would have to have the original file.

I do not. But I would recommend the channel Product Design Online if it's fusion360.

Hey man sorry I didn't reply sooner. I don't monitor this channel as much as I should. Sounds like you are experiencing heat creep which is causing jams. One thing you can try is to do the mod from this video ruclips.net/video/B2KEzF1ZzTU/видео.html you would need some ABS or PETG, this has helped me a little bit but adding a more powerful hot end fan has also helped. You could also give this a try, haven't tried it but looks like it could help www.amazon.com/dp/B09JVQPDFM/?coliid=I3S9WGJLXV5FB&colid=2Z02LJ75C3KQD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it . In the meantime, if you remove the stock PTFE tube from the hot end, check to make sure the end of the tube has been cut straight, then reinsert it and push down all the way to make sure it hits the nozzle. For Voxel Maker I would start with the default PLA profile, then choose to "customize" at the bottom of the dropdown of the profile menu, it should keep the stock settings then you just make changes from there. I would avoid changing any of the settings in the stock profile, that way you have the stock profile unchanged. Whenever you have a new material, and you want to create a new profile always start with the stock profile then choose to customize, then make your changes. Let me know how it goes. I will try to monitor this channel more often.

As far as I know you can't add G-Code using voxelmaker. It's a very limited program. What are you trying to do?

drag the Gcode file from the folder into VoxelMaker, and you can send to the printer

Hey sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. I don't believe there is a way to connect direct to VoxelMaker, I don't see an option to connect through USB cable. You could try using pronterface to load the file to the printer and print.

Replying to this very late, but hopefully it will help someone in the future. This information is incomplete, but it will get you printing by USB in Cura, and I'm still trying to get it fully functional in VoxelMaker. It seems that to print directly from USB on older Voxelab models, such as my Aquila X2, you need the CH340 driver, which enables serial communication through USB, same as an Arduino board. RUclips won't let me post a direct link, but SparkFun (who sells Arduinos) has a good article on it. Google "How to Install CH340 Drivers," and click on their article with that title. After installing, you'll see the serial communication ports in Device Manager, assuming you're on Windows. To get my computer to detect the printer, I had to flip the power switch first, and wait for it to boot *before* connecting the the USB. Now in VoxelMaker, go to Tools -> Serial Control. In the Serial Control window, there is a Serial Ports dropdown list at the top right. In my case, my printer was connected to serial port COM4. There are many ports it could be, and for whatever reason, the Search Ports button didn't seem to work for me. Fortunately, Cura now detected my printer, automatically connected to it, and identified which port it was connected by, which saved the trial and error finding the right port. *However, if Cura is still open when you try to connect VoxelMaker to the printer, the connection will fail with no clear reason given, because Cura is still hogging it.* When you click the Connect button at the bottom of VoxelMaker's Serial Control window, if the connection is successful, it will say so in the box to the left. You can now paste gcode (as text) into the Send window, send it to the printer to operate it. However, I was unable to _finish_ any print like this. After a short while, it would warn me that it was too busy processing my other commands, and fail. I assume this could easily be overcome by limiting the send speed, but I'm not sure of the correct way to do that yet. From what I could find, I believe the defaults for the other Serial Control settings are correct for my printer, but tweaking those may be the answer. In any case, I did not run into this issue in Cura. I only needed to connect the printer, and open Cura. After slicing, the normal Save To Disk button will have an arrow to the right which you can click to set to "Print From USB". On the Monitor tab, there are buttons to move the extruder, and to preheat the nozzle and plate, which VoxelMaker does not have. Oddly, while printing this way, the printer LCD and menu act as though it's idle, not printing anything. The Print Time/Time Remaining counters have to be viewed in Cura. I've not yet tested whether it's possible to change settings like temperature and print speed from the printer menu mid-print. Hopefully someone can figure out how to get VoxelMaker fully functioning with this, because it was able to detect my printer's settings and immediately get to work, instead of having to add the printer manually, which is something Cura can't (and probably won't) do.