Видео

We primarily test in a quartz sandstone, a very hard rock. And yes, ones results would be very much so relevant to the substrate they're installing anchors in. We've tested in soft rock, and the tests results do vary. Yet it's also important to find out the peak performance strength. From there other factors like bolt length, bolt type, switching to chemical anchors etc would be additional things to consider if someone wanted similar performance/strength. Even to the point of the rod stock to make bolts, etc also have composition and tensile strength data sheets which also come into play as it will be used to make bolts etc.

Strength-wise, yes, you can use our 12mm bolts in a 1/2" hole. Yet there there other installation "red flags" where maybe it's not the best idea for more permanent long term installations..... strength isn't everything.

What is pfas

No worries, they're heavy and bulky.

When will that much torsion ever be applied?

#notyourcountry #sonoworries #everwonderhowmineralsareextracted

A unit to measure force.

It's very fragile. This was just for entertainment purposes

All that's left is a genius who doesn't take care of their gear. Cause if it needs replacing due to being worn down, you replace it.

We intentionally rested it in a more unfavorable way, to know if it would pass with flying colors in shear.

We were testing 6mm wire rope in this video. 1/4" = 6.35mm, and 3/8" = 9.5mm. We've only ever tested 6mm and 8mm. And 8mm has always broke higher than 6mm.

304 stainless steel, or A2-70

So let me get this, in your mind it's better to have stainless bolts that rust, it your replace them "regularly", right? Cause that makes no sense at all! Corrosion is bot controlled so some bolts might still be ok or kind of ok, but some on the same route can be totall crap fest. You do realise that, right?

6 tonne lever chain hoist. Sometimes we add in a 2:1 to get up to 90kN.

The bolt broke. That's about as high as a number one could get. We've tested many of these bolts already and around 50kN is the max strength of the bolt. Changing direction of pull wouldn't make much a a difference in terms of strength...cause the bolt broke in the end.

Use a leash or tether. Us climbing route developers do.

Interestingly, the standard by which some of this hardware/equipment is tested and certified allow for slow pulls. Regarding drop testing, there are some other standards for that as well. For soft goods like nylon or Dyneema, they might be more affected by drop forces that generate heat. Whereas for steel, a slow pull to like 8kN and a drop to a peak of 8kN wouldn't have much of a difference on the material structure.

It's nice to have a selection of quick links. I'll cut to the chase. We've already bought an electric hydraulic swaging machine to make fully stainless cable draws (stainless steel sleeves too). Pretty much plan to just make stainless steel ones, 304 & 316 in a variety of lengths and in both 6mm and 8mm. In our the tests of 304 & 316 wire rope draws, the 6mm ones break around 26kN, and the 8mm at 40kN. Lappas' current selection is 8mm 316 and are rated to 35kN to 40kN, which I personally think 8mm is sorta overkill, and not everyone needs 316 (which adds to the cost). So we're hoping to bring in some more economically-priced options, and more comfortable to grab. ---Been getting a few others requesting cable draws too, definitely a need in the market. I first experimented with a manual 12 ton hydraulic crimper (came with hexagonal dies) and swaged some stainless sleeves on 6mm 304SS wire rope, tested it, and got full strength.

If they're using a dynamic rope, shouldnt be a problem. If using a static ropes or static attachment point, a person's body would be pretty messed up from the amount force on it. A bolt like this would still be alright, maybe a little bent.

Rure, it's's good to test in a variety of ways for a more rounder idea of data. We've tested hundred of bolts and hangers already. The manner in which we tested these give a good idea of what to expect.

Often yes, unless the substrate is softer, and/or if the wedge bolt design is mediocre.

There wasn't one. Dude forgot to clip into the autobelay.

We even use those little red shackles 3x past their WLL. They're made from G80 high tensile steel.

1/2" hole will work strength-wise, however there will be complications during the installation and tradeoffs.

Full curing time depends on temperature. Lately, it seems a full 24hrs. Maybe in summer it'll be less. But in comparison with other epoxies I've used with similar specs on gel time/surface drying time/curing time, these epoxies are def longer than what it says on the label...which isn't necessarily a bad thing, cause maybe someone wants an epoxy with a longer working time.

I'd say far from "worthless"? We've tested hundreds of bolts so far, and have found a tensile pull gives a pretty good indication of what will happen in shear testing (whose results are more predictable). This test was more worst case scenario and gave insightful results. But yes, more testing is always good. However the installation process itself had several red flags, so I wouldn't recommend using a large hole for more permanent installations.