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I dunno, probably not. With all the wind and storms here I would think that it's excluded. It did go up 750 a year a couple of months ago though.

Nope, I have not. I did hook a chain onto the front of it and tried pulling it around hoping that it would go into gear all the way but it did not work. The local tractor shop says they won't work on it because they know nothing about a Kubota but since they sell new Kiotie's I think they just are brand sour. I called the nearest Kubota shop ( 45 miles away) to see if they had any idea and to see what their rate of repair was but they just put me on hold and blew me off. I tried twice. I believe this will be the last Kubota that I own, that is the worst customer service that I have seen in a long time from a dealer. It seems that unless you are going to spend 30,000 on a new one, they don't want to talk to you. Can't imagine what warranty service would be like on a new one. There is a mobile farm mechanic somewhere here and I will try to get him to look at it. I will post if I can get the problem solved. Good luck.

Thanks I'll keep looking as well and will comment here if I find something out. Thanks for getting back to me

Nah, l trim most of the fat off before I eat it. This is my best attempt yet!!!

The problem was that the solenoids were not grounded. Once grounded the problem was solved, thanks.

@@a.b.5925 oh hey, did ya check to make sure they were grounded?? 😂

What does it mean when it works one press but the next press a second later it just clicks.

@@mikeharris8365 Just sounds like a bad connection.

@a.b.5925 yeah, sometimes a bad solenoid will just sound like a bad connection, I did all kinds of testing and checking with my little ranger, come to find out, it was battery itself, even though it showed to have 12.3 volts on the ohm meter. Put a new battery in it, and starts right up, I'm still shocked that it showed good.

yes. Just plan on getting it close when running on muffs. You need to do your final adjustments when you are in the water or it will never adjust correctly. Cobra outdrives are great for simple maintenance like changing an impeller but this was a real bugger bear. If you have not already, buy the jigs to set up cable length, and then when making your adjustments, go one step at a time. DO NOT get in a hurry, I did and I ran myself in circles for 4 days because I kept skipping one step or another trying to get this right. BTW, the local boat mechanics told me some BS about changing the gears in the outdrive because they could not figure it out, I'm glad that I stuck with it and got it right. Seek out the good manuals online and if you can find an original manual grab it. I sold the boat as it was a restoration project that I intended on selling, but I still remember a lot of the things that I needed to do. Look at some of my other videos they may help as well. Lemme know if you need to know more. thanks--- Bruce

Yep , I know . If you watched my videos after this you will see that I have been adjusting the transom shift cable to the 6 /2 " measurement not the 6" shown on the tool. If I were to use the 6" line and set the side of the barrel trunion at the line it is a 6 1/2 " measurement to the center of the trunion from the center of the pin hole . My ongoing problem is that the outdrive does not readily come out of gear into Neutral. I can get it to come out of gear correctly In either Forward to Neutral or Reverse to Neutral bout not both. Yes the ESA is functioning correctly.

Luigi thanks for your reply--when I installed the TSC it moved like butter before I installed the outdrive and the outdrive shifted fine by hand , shift rod was also at the correct height , BUT , I recall having a problem with the bell crank binding and I filed it down a little to make it move freely . Maybe the bell crank is causing a problem again . I will go ahead and pull the outdrive again , test the drag and inspect everything . I do have the jigs to set up the TSC and used them to install said cable to begin with. This is getting to be more than a little bizarre , I've been fighting this for months. Replaced switches and ESA as well as another new coil to replace the other new coil . I will pull the outdrive today or in the morning and check everything out , again.

OK , here is what I did ! Remove outdrive .Using the OMC Jigs set up the outdrive end with jig in place . leave the anchor nut ( kinda teardrop shaped ) loose but on the cable flush with cable end. Set up the Engine end of the cable to spec tape the jig onto the cable so that it hold the adjustment that you made in place . THEN go back to the bell crank at the outdrive , push the plastic Black cable guide in till it stops and screw the teardrop shaped anchor nut onto the shift cable until you make contact with the end of the plastic cable guide then install and torque the keeper screw . Remove jigs . The lower cable is now adjusted correctly . Adjust the control cable according to spec . then connect the lower cable . As far as the Trunion , you simply adjust it to fit the socket on your bracket after the upper or control cable is adjusted and you should be good to go. Make sure that you disconnect your throttle cable as well when you adjust your shift cables. In fact , disconnect all three , installing the throttle cable last. When adjusted as I just described everything is doing what it is supposed to except that my interrupter switch is not working but that's a different problem and I have the switches coming.

one more thing Chef , I belong to the iboats forum and it has been invaluable in all the work I've done to my boat . If you have not already joined , I suggest that you do , they are the best source of information for DIY boat repair in the internet.

@@a.b.5925 Yes! I am a member: www.iboats.com/user/chefgeirculinary-yourscom/

aftermarket

thanks for your response--- the last time I adjusted the shift linkage the load lever did exactly as you said , it stayed in the " V " and just kind of hopped when shifted. I took the boat to the ramp to test in water and it shifted in and OUT of gear as it should. After shifting in and out of gear 3 or 4 times it began to hang in gear for a minute before finally shifting to Neutral. Now when I checked it is as in the Video and is difficult to shift in and out of Reverse even on muffs yet I made no further adjustments . All this stuff worked right before I replaced the transom shift cable . Yes I did use the OMC jigs to set the length . In addition I can't seem to get the interrupter to slow the engine when shifting. It will not work even when manually triggered and i am checking to make sure it has power. Like i said , all this stuff worked before I changed the transom shift cable. A.B.

When I first adjusted the cables the detent just hopped when shifting from gear to Neutral but stayed in the " V " . I put the boat in the water and after shifting in and out of gears about 4 times it began hanging in gear instead of releasing into Neutral immediately . When I got it home , this is the way the way it was. The detent no longer returning to the V position when in gear. I have pulled the outdrive and re adjusted the Transom Shift Cable to correct Specs as well as the control cable and the detent now returns to the V and shifts in and out of gear as it should , yes I used the OMC jigs to set it up . However , the interrupter switch does not effect the engine speed when manually actuated . I have switches coming .