Видео

www.ebay.com/itm/204103734256?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wcau-cvcsnc&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=OYYuD3ObR_m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Thanks for the tip. It was my first time using it. I agree. it works pretty well.

Going from the lines in the engine bay may be cheaper since it's a short run. But if I can work in an open space, I'll pick it everytime.

I was hesitant to jump into the efi world, but once I jumped in and went for it, it wasn't that bad. Practice and patience are all it takes.

ruclips.net/video/AMRI5YLEQX4/видео.html

@joshuamendoza5600 it was in a large construction van. I suggest going to the junkyard and digging under the carpet. There are a lot of connections going from the front to the back. Or you can always hit up amazon and search for a 12 or 15 connector. Or two 6 pin connectors, etc.

You need to download the repairsolutions app first

@@rickyc664 you're welcome.

Lmao, Im in the middle of watching that and happen to be looking this up and the chances of seeing this comment

@2015_Rubicnn remember the key itself has a security feature, which goes to the bcm, then the pcm. So if you kept the column and key, bcm and pcm I suppose you could.

@macsboneyardbuilds OH, so it is the actual key that has part of the security. Mine is from a 2002 Silverado.

@2015_Rubicnn it all works together. The key makes the bcm happy, the bcm makes the pcm happy. It would honestly just be easier to eliminate vats and not try and fight keeping it.

@macsboneyardbuilds Yes, I know it all works together. What I meant was that the key is also needed to make the security system happy. Deleting the VATS isn't a big deal, I'll just disable it and be done.

@2015_Rubicnn wasn't trying to come off offensive if it was taken that way. The old pass key system had a chip in the key, then they went to a chip in the tumbler. Now the modern keys have responders in them. So I was just saying to make the bcm happy the tumbler would have to be happy, that's all. Good luck on your build!

@Bissonman i like the wood under the front idea. I've just gotten in the habit of giving it a little harder of a push when I go to close it.

Oh, and we have a vinyl cutting machine at my house, so I made the labels myself.

Keep the NSS wiring from the OBS harness. It's the same plug on both harnesses. The LS computer doesn't monitor the NSS.

No problem, I'm glad it helped 👍

Yep, I've done it numerous times and always said, 'I'm gonna get a trans jack one of these days' so many times. Finally did and wish I had years ago.

It was out of an 03 Escalade I believe. Picked it up from a local junkyard, but I see them on marketplace and ebay all the time.

@ thanks man! And the cluster will fit in a 01 sierra?

Yes. Try and get a 99-01 cluster so you don't get any weird warning lights. My battery light is always on since they are in different styles. But they are all interchangeable to an extent

Trying to balance a trans on a conventional jack is such a pain, and it never reaches high enough. Should have bought one years ago.

It's actually Grumpy dwarf from Snow White 😄. Says, "Does it look like I care"

I feel like everybody knows who I am through my kids. 😄

Yes, large wire from battery + and the exciter/ignition to the solenoid.

I have never had a problem like that before. Is it stalling like fuel; sputtering, back firing, or just turning off like electrical?

No, you would need a more advanced scanner for that.

Sorry about that, jump starting is really easy. 1) you must have over 2 volts of power or it won't recognize the correct polarity. If you are under 2 volts it won't work. 2) hook red to +, black to -. 3) if you see two clamps and a flashing engine symbol you are good to go. If you see arrows pointing left and right switch your cables. If you see nothing you need to charge your battery since it's below the minimum allowed voltage. Hope this helps

@@macsboneyardbuilds that’s what I ended up doing….i couldn’t get anything to come up. The battery was DOA and needed replacing. Thanks for the response

No problem. Glad you figured it out.

Yes

Glad you liked it!! Hope it helped.

So the OBS had a couple options for the driver side. I know one was a tool box and another was the auxiliary battery. Your best bet is hitting the junk yards, and be sure to check 2500 models too. I just lucked out and mine had the auxiliary battery tray already. They are hard to come by. Keep an eye on ebay also.

@@macsboneyardbuilds Thanks for the tips! Watched alot of your vids and very informative!💪

You're welcome. And I appreciate you checking out the videos 👍🏻

I think every vehicle in the last decade is over thought and overpriced. But maybe I'm just a simple kinda guy 🤷‍♂️

Mine was wrong year cluster.

I've seen them on Amazon

@@macsboneyardbuilds I can’t find any … the o ring ends up melting atleast for me it did …. Urs has the o ring or the 2 bolt flange gasket

@KennethC-x8n mine had the o rings and I'm not a fan. I ordered these with a ridge and two bolt application. They have sealed up good and time will tell if they last or not. www.ebay.com/itm/125373509996?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=tkpzzlfzt62&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=OYYuD3ObR_m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Only boats I've been in were only throttle controlled. And the speedometer was water driven. So I'm no help, sorry.

Mine ended up being the wrong year cluster. It's an 03 cluster in an 07 classic truck. They used different alternators so it's confused.

🫣

Might be slightly different because yours is carb correct? And this 98 is most definitely efi

Agreed. Similar, but should be close. Just take your time.

The wires shown are the only wires needed for the bench harness. Other grounds, power wires and such are not needed for strictly reading/writing to the pcm.

Yeah, that's not a very common one. I am assuming you are just doing a pcm replacement for your S10?

@@macsboneyardbuilds Nope I cant afford to replace it on disability pay, I just need to disable vats so I can start my truck, I have doctors appointments to get to... I've tried to do every relearn procedure out there with no luck... The truck starts than stalls right away I'm getting a P1632 code... The trucks been flawless for 7 years... This computer stuff is annoying to me... Give me an old fashioned chevy 350 with points and I can get it running in my sleep, add all these sensors and computers and I'm lost... Vehicle computers are not like the Linux Linux and windows based computers I worked on for years... I have been wondering if its possible to put a more modern PCU in it without to much headache, but as I said that's beyond the scope of anything I know and have not ran across anyone online doing it...

Over charging alternators is usually caused by the voltage regulator on the alternator. I couldn't see 3 different alternators having bad regulators. But GM also had the battery control module on the negative cable on later years. May want to try swapping that out. Did you try and clean up all the grounds you can find. Bad grounds will create havoc on all types of battery behavior

​@@macsboneyardbuilds thank you for your response. I work crazy hours and just now getting time to relook at it. Poor truck has been sitting this whole time. I will look for that on Friday. (Tomorrow) Thank you again for your response

P.s. cleaning the cables was my first go too.

I'd love to do these for people if I had the time. Unfortunately, time is my enemy, and I can't dedicate enough of it to do them. I have faith everyone can do them with time and patience

Thank you. It wasn't a grand makeover but enough to make the space much easier on the eyes.

Did you clean out the metal tube from the intake to the egr. This one took almost a whole can of break clean and was nasty. It may have dirtied up the egr already.

@macsboneyardbuilds I didn't do a thorough clean, I should have known better. However, the check engine light turned off on its own today while driving. But I will consider cleaning the egr tube.

@crcor2572 Thank you, appreciate it.

I hear ya. The clean work space definitely makes you more motivated. Good luck on the Jeeps, and thanks for subscribing!

That wire is a fusable link and can go bad. Mine ended up being the wrong year cluster for the truck.

I would love to, but I barely have enough time to tinker on my own projects. It may seem intimidating, but with a little time and some trial and error, you can do it.

You bet 👍

There is absolutely nothing wrong with a good 350. I would have stayed with the 350 longer if the trans hadn't gone out on me. That was the domino that fell that set me into motion to do my swap.

As long as it gets 13 smiles per mile it's a win 👍

@@MultiTazmo not a bad idea at all

Not sure on that one. Could try it, but I would be careful; it may brick it and make it inoperable.

You have some serious saliva. Haha