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Appreciate your feedback!

Hey Mike, I’m not sure on that one. The concept is the same, but the 1000 might have a slightly different layout when it comes to which bolts need removing to access the valves. This forum here seems to have some quality discussion, although the write up I hope you’ll find doesn’t specify whether it is for the 1000 or the 650. www.advrider.com/f/threads/dl1000-valve-adjustment-how-long-is-the-procedure.155986/

Which gasket are you referring to? If you mean the valve cover gasket, I haven’t had to do that on this car yet. The main gasket removed in this video is the intake manifold gasket, which is accessible after removing the intake manifold as described in the video.

I’ve read about people lifting the engine up a bit, and placing blocks of wood to hold it up. I imagine an engine mount (or multiple) would need to be undone to allow enough movement, but I could be wrong. With out lifting the engine up, or removing the oil pickup, there is not enough room to remove the sump entirely.

I’m not too sure there, it’s the part listed for a 2wd van & I haven’t had any issues with wheel clearance. I don’t imagine it would cause rubbing, but is the shaft for the two main bolts the right way around, not spun 180 degrees?

Ive checked that. maybe the parts store has just givin me rong part

Just checked the clearance on my van, and there’s approximately 12 or so mm of clearance between the wheel and the closest part of the ball joint, as the car sits naturally. I suspect that would get closer with downward travel, but it certainly doesn’t bind up at all.

Cheers! Yep, difficult without the right tools!

Thanks! I’m sure that 4wd comes in handy too. I’ve got a few more videos planned, provided time allows, to get the van ready for a lap of Australia. Radiator, LSD, engine and gearbox mounts etc.

No problems, thanks for the comment!

Ryco Z440 or equivalent in another brand, that’s for the filter with multiple spots to fit the hose. Would be my suggestion.

Gee, what a review! Thanks! I try to make my videos reflect what I’m looking for myself when checking out how to do things. Straight to the point, including as much relevant information as possible, include both disassembly and reassembly, clear shots etc. Although I’m definitely still learning and don’t always hit those targets! I’m glad the video helped you out 🙂

Thanks 👍

Gday, I fitted Narva H4 bulbs that were somewhere in the plus 100 to plus 150 range. H4 globes are very common, so any good auto parts store should have an upgrade option for you. In regards to the LED’s- most people don’t realise that (depending on where you live) they are not approved for road use, so could result in being defected. Vehicles with factory fitted LED lights are excluded because the have automatic dipping sensors to avoid blinding other motorists.

Thanks for the comment 😊 few different names for them, you might find them under rod clip or linkage clip or lock rod clips.

Also have a look at the Nice Products catalogue online, try the names suggested + cam clips too.

No problems! Thanks 😊

Good to hear! Thanks for the comment.

Thanks! I’m actually halfway through a trip now, 2-up, loaded with gear. The racks are holding up well! My chain on the other hand… definitely overdue for replacement 🫠

Always good to learn things! I got kind of lucky- my first car needed a new head gasket, and I couldn’t afford a mechanic or to replace the car at that stage. The lucky part is that it was a push rod type engine, which makes replacing a head gasket much easier. I worked methodically, labelled parts in the order they came out, and ended up being successful in the repair. I think if I hadn’t experienced success working on mechanical things early on, I’d be less likely to give things a go. I’m certainly no mechanic, but I’ve since had success through jobs including gearbox rebuilds, water pump replacements, timing chain replacements etc. I don’t intend on removing these videos so I hope you do return one day to have a go!

Great to hear! Thanks for the comment :)

This was done with a 2001 with 2rze motor, manual transmission, should be the same procedure with models from 1999-2004 using the 2rze & manual transmission if my information is accurate.

Thanks for the response!

No worries, glad it was useful!

Can you describe what is in the way? After removing the air intake hose, all throttle body bolts are accessible. Removing these, you can then move the throttle body out of the way to access the bolt at the back. It’s been a while since I did this job, if you can provide more information I can try to help.

Oh nah my mate found the bolt i wad looking at the wrong bolt

Thanks for the help tho appreciate it 🙏

Awesome, good luck!

Thanks for the comment, I’m glad the video was useful for you!

Yeah, the rivets are drilled out and replaced. I made this video early in my content creation timeline, and failed to show that part very well.

Hey David, thanks for the comment- I’m glad the video helped. I do try to put as much information into my videos as I can, but I didn’t show the coil and spark plug removal because I had actually done the job a few days earlier on the side of the road, four hours from home on a very hot day. The car began running very poorly, and I had a suspicion it was either the plugs or coils. I did it with a very basic set of tools purchased at a small store in the town, so I suppose I just got very lucky that they were the right ones. I think RUclips provides me with features to edit videos that have already been published, so I’ll add in more info if I can.

Wow, great job! That’s excellent to know too, my van has 328,000 kms on it so I’m sure it will need a new crankshaft seal sooner or later!

My oĺ girl has just clocked over 621,000 k's,, it is the original engine in her and continues to run fine,,, i was advised to use a genuine Toyota Seal which cost me $29:95

@@silowe1 I hope I can get a similar lifespan from my van's engine!

Hello! I haven’t had to fix my Speedo, so I don’t have a video for that yet! I’m going to make a clutch master cylinder replacement video, and that starts with removing the dash cluster. I’m assuming what you need is in the dash?

No worries, thanks for the comment!

Thanks for the tip! Will give it a go

Yep ,sand was how it was done before bending kit was available , there will be a how to video on here somewhere .

Thanks! Cost was in the original script but I cut it to shorten the video. Here's the breakdown: 8 x 90 degree bends $21.36 4 x tee pieces $25.20 2 x 45 degree bends $4.02 Shipping of bends $11.80 6.5m length of 15nb steel pipe $23 2m length of 25mm x 5mm flat bar $14 Total cost for above items $99.38. Add my time, and consumables I already had such as welding rods, paint, grinding discs etc. I had leftover pipe and flat bar, so I might have a go at making a new bash plate with it as the one it came with is terrible!

Hi Simon, I haven't replaced the radiator on my Hiace before, but I plan to do it before the end of the year in time for a 12 month trip. From what I have seen and heard so far, it only comes out from underneath. I've been wrong before though. The main piece of advice I remember being told about doing the radiator is to place some cardboard either side of the new radiator while installing to protect the cooling fins, as it needs to pass a number of things that could bend the fins during install. 'Oliver the mechanic' seems to have a video of the process if you haven't already seen it!

To add, while it would probably make the job easier once out, I think you could probably do that job without removing the radiator. As you can see in my video above, the fan and viscous hub can be separated and comes out the top which makes a fair bit of room.

Thanks for that,, yes i watched one clip of a guy doing it from the bottom and although he had a hoist (which i dont) it was still a mission,,, he had to disconnect the steering and move 5he rack back and also the front sway bar,,, in the comment thread a couple of guys said it could've been done from the top, ,, time will tell hey,, ill let you know how i go with it :-)

@@silowe1 Yes, please let me know! Good luck!

The sheets of acrylic were offcuts marked down very cheap, it doesn’t go cloudy & is harder to scratch than lexan. There are some aftermarket windshield makers who use acrylic too. I haven’t had any issues with cracking. Might give the lexan a go though next time I make one just to see what it’s like to work with 🙂

@@whoshrunkmyshed3786 thank you

No problems, it gets easier every time you take apart something new!

It definitely could be the pump leaking, especially if you can see the fluid is coming from there. Is the oil milky at all? I would be a little concerned about a crack in the head causing coolant to leak either into the cylinders, the exhaust, or straight out of the block. If you’re happy to give it a go yourself though, it would be worth swapping it out to at least cross it off the list. On another note, I am looking into an engine guard to hopefully help detect any overheating issues before they cause too much damage- might be of interest to you too? Thanks for leaving a comment, I appreciate it!

@@whoshrunkmyshed3786 Oil isn't Milky thank God! First thing I thought was head gasket or warped/cracked head... I really hope not, can't afford to both repair my car /and/ shop at Woolies these days. Guess we'll try the cheapest fix first eh? Might look into the engine guard, thanks for the suggestion!

@@whoshrunkmyshed3786 Took me a good 12 hours to complete this repair across two Sunday afternoons for my 98 Hi-Ace. 0/10 would not attempt again. You can't get the alternator belt off without first removing the power steering pump, it's easier to just leave it in. Couldn't get the AC compressor bracket back in without removing the drivers side tyre to align one of the bolts - Now I understand why there aren't many people detailing this repair, nobody wants to think about it ever again!

Great work getting your hands dirty! Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the power steering pump bracket doesn’t need to be removed- it does look that way though! I thought the same for a long time. The very bottom bolt on that bracket goes through the bracket, then a large spacer, then into the block. Rust/dirt/grease covers up the join and it looks like one piece, but with that one bolt removed, the spacer can be knocked out, and the belt manoeuvre through the gap! Absolute pain to reinstate the spacer and line it all up, but I have picked up a couple tricks to it. I’ll make a video next time I replace it. Does it seem that replacing the water pump has fixed your issues? I hope it has!

@@whoshrunkmyshed3786 Damn it! I honestly searched for information about changing that belt, and everyone said that the pump needs to come off! I've kept one in the van along with my tools and a jack just in case it breaks on me lol. Seems like it fixed the issue, drove ~100km to work and back and no bright green pool of coolant or overheating... Heater is warm but not scalding - Thanks for your help!

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Thanks! Hope it helped you. One of my best I think!

I couldn’t find Nissan’s service schedule for this, however using iridium spark plugs you should get up to 100,000 kms per set of plugs. This car ran up to 198,000kms on the original set of plugs, however the excessive wear on the plugs is likely what caused the coils to fail. So to sum up: iridium spark plugs- 100,000kms maximum, coils- if they are faulty.

Thank you!

Glad it helped!

That fence has only gone up somewhat recently and the gate is the last bit to be built. Going to happen a lot quicker now!

Hey Sam, it has been a little while since I did this job but I believe the gaskets were rubber & they seal perfectly when the valve cover is torqued down. You could always replace the gaskets if you wanted to be certain, but no RTV silicone is used on them from factory. Good luck!

To access the front cylinder, yes. I think I may have read of someone just loosening the radiator so they could get to the bolts but I don’t know if that is correct or how much harder the job would be to do it that way. I suppose you could try?

@@whoshrunkmyshed3786 I guess the coolant isn't a huge issue. I gotta change the spark plugs too. Thanks for the video!

No problems! Thankyou for the kind words.

Hi @rzh101 , if I remember correctly you should be able to remove the power steering belt and its idler pulley with bracket, and just leave the alternator belt as is and unbolt the viscous hub from the water pump pulley assembly. I don't know for sure, because I had to remove it all anyway. Otherwise you could just release tension on the alternator belt enough to do the job too. Or lastly if the alternator belt does need to come off, there is no need to remove the entire power steering pump assembly to maneuver the belt off- there is a round spacer you will find at the bottom of the bracket, below the belt, a bolt goes through it. Once removed the belt will come off through this gap. I used a short 1/4 inch ratchet set for most of the work, no need to crank the motor.

@@whoshrunkmyshed3786 Thanks - another couple of questions if you don't mind... What's the best way to slacken off the alternator? Access is very restricted with the power steering pump in the way. The van isn't off the ground so access from below is quite limited too. I assume I need to break the main bolt holding the alternator to the engine mount - but from the diagram, it seems there is a bolt and nut. Did you find it easier to break from the bolt head end - or the nut end? Any tips welcome.

@@rzh101 after loosening the bolt which locks the tension on, I use either a very small 1/4 inch socket set or a short ratcheting ring spanner, all of this is from above the motor, no need to go underneath unless the belt needs to come off entirely. I don't typically undo the long bolt which the alternator pivots on, which I believe is the one you are referring to. If you do find it needs to be loosened off for the alternator to slacken off, I have previously used a combination of sockets on both bolt head and nut at the same time, from below the van. Access is not ideal!

I didn’t do anything special myself, maybe that might help the car run better but I never did.

From what I can find, Nissan’s OEM number is 22401-JD01B and on the OEM box itself lists NGK’s DILKAR6A11 as an equivalent. Hope this helps 🙂

@@whoshrunkmyshed3786 i've been searching for spark plugs for a 2011 Nissan Xtrail with the mr20de engine and found NGK PLZKAR6A-11. Do you know if that's correct?

@@shemaradams561 Sorry I did not see this comment earlier, yes that is the correct plug for that motor according to NGK.

@@whoshrunkmyshed3786 that's the thing I'm worried about because other sites saying the thread size for the mr20de engine is 14mm but that NGK version is 12mm

@@shemaradams561 The other sites may be referring to the hex size which is 14mm, I checked other suppliers and they also list a 12mm thread with a 14mm hex which also cross reference to the NGK part number PLZKAR6A-11.