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Glad to help. God bless you too, bro!

@@Fubes thanks! Glad to help :)

If you have a paint mask in the stack you should be able to copy that layer and paste it elsewhere. It's been a while since I've used Mixer, but if you remind me with another comment, later tonight or tomorrow I can check.

@@Crompwell In case you can be bothered, could you have a look ?

@@blenderheadxyz2418 Going to check now :)

So, with a paint mask, you can copy or move the layer to Layer Sets. Alternatively, you could export the paint layer and apply it as a texture mask to any other layer (this can also be done outside of Mixer, in Blender for example). Seems like it needs a workaround since you can't directly copy a paint mask to other layers, at least that's what I'm finding.

@@Crompwell Wow, thank you Mr. Crompwell :) That was very kind !

Export it from unreal engine for free.

Yes, you should be able to export animated objects with fbx format.

No. This particular thing is quite simple, but people complain it's too complicated when it's not.

Actually yes, it was quite simple. Blender is actually pretty simple to pick up nd learn. Mastering it is diferent

No, Quixel should have a plane primitive. Just choose that instead of doing a custom mesh import. In the setup tab, go to Type and select "plane" instead of 3D asset or custom model. Any new mix should open with this as the default model.

So many ways to do the same thing :)

​@@Crompwell Mine didn't go straight and the spin went at an angle how do I fix it

@@SalamanderGtag Make sure you're in an orthographic view or use the dialogue box to choose the specific axis to spin around and zero out the other axes values.

@@Crompwell idk what those are but I found a different way to fix it

Glad to help :)

It's possible, but you might run into an issue with the camera database being able to identify the sensor data since they're 3D renderings. But I have heard of people using it this way.

To be honest, no, and I never use the other one. There is an updated version of this tutorial here: ruclips.net/user/shortsa1GweGABhxQ

Glad it helped!

Glad to help

That is an error you can get, usually, when there isn't a database entry for the camera and sensor your photographs were taken with. Meshroom needs that data in order to run its calculations. You may need to input it manually into the database.

Glad to help :)

Easier this way: ruclips.net/user/shortsa1GweGABhxQ

Glad to help

What are your hardware specs and what version of the software are you using?

If I recall correctly, I used a Canon EOS 80D. You can get pretty good results with modern camera phones, but a professional DSLR with good quality and proper lighting will give you the best results.

@@Crompwell yes 20mp plus is the way to go, thanks for confirming. My cellphone is 12mp and scans were too lumpy. Just bought a used Nikon D800 from keh, 36mp. Appreciate your clarity before such a purchase invesment.

I'm not sure. That's something I'd have to look into. You could try taking a look at their web page or github and see if they have anything about that.

So use C4D. Probably less time and effort than coming to complain on my video.

@@Crompwell dude, thats not how it was meaned. its more like, look there is a better way. maybe someone gets inspired and creates a script

@@JaXuun Then, you should ask if someone knows of or can write such a script. Otherwise, it just looks like you're complaining or being some kind of software evangelist. To be honest, it's kind of unbelievable to me how much some people have whined over this little trick. First of all, when you are familiar with Blender, the hotkeys and options are very easy, it becomes second nature. I can figure out how to do this same thing in C4D, Maya, and Blender, and I don't need a script for it, I just do it. It's just different software with different ways of achieving the same result. Besides, no one really ever models like this. Most people will be modeling in regular global space orientation the vast majority of the time. This is just a little educational help video.

Less than 20 seconds and people are still complaining about how this is easier in other software or requires a script, lol.

I had to watch it about right times because the good part is about 3 seconds long. I DID finally get it working as you said, though. Much faster than the other solutions.

@@TreeLuvBurdpu I'm glad it worked out for you. Maybe a text/still image guide might have been better for something like this.

@@Crompwell all in all it worked well. If there's an improvement it might be that the wind-up was slightly long, so the interesting part might be rushed. I realize there's a time limit on shorts. I think if there was a little more time on the select face, 2 to select edge, shift double click the edge, and then ... shoot, i might have to watch it again but it was that shift+r or whatever..., Also I'm a Blender n00b, so...

@@TreeLuvBurdpu Yeah, most of the video was the setup, the actual selection and rotation is rather short.

Updated version here: ruclips.net/user/shortsa1GweGABhxQ?feature=share

Updated version here: ruclips.net/user/shortsa1GweGABhxQ?feature=share

No, although you could do that. This is about a software that can approximate the surface and volume of a 3D object by extracting data from the 2D pixels and their movement across a series of still photographs and converts it into 3D polygons/geometry for use in applications like blender.

In a free video where you can control the playback speed. I even added time stamps for people to find the info they might need.

I’m using 3.3 LTS. What issues are you having?

You will need to straighten out the UV shells either by using an addon. There are some free ones, even some that might come be default with Blender. I used paid addons in my own work, or you can manually select the verts and scale them based on their axes. I should make a video on UV unwrapping in blender.

@@Crompwell thanks for the response! I remade my model and got closer to the result im looking for, but where I place my label on the bottle is over the full thing since its a "Prime" bottle

my uv unwrap is looking like you're at the bottom left on you're uv map of you're bottle< im going to see if I can watch the video a few more times and see how you straightened it out

my label looks like you're bottle because it goes almost 100% of the way up the bottle so Im trying to get a 2d image on that

@@benthomas2717 it’s very hard for me to troubleshoot without seeing what you’re talking about, I’m afraid. I don’t know if you’d like to connect via discord or email. I might be able to better help you that way.

ruclips.net/user/shortsa1GweGABhxQ?feature=share

@@Crompwell perfect thank u

Newer, more efficient method here (less than 1 min): ruclips.net/user/shortsa1GweGABhxQ?feature=share

Yes, everything should be on your local disk. You should not be working off of removable disks or memory cards.

Most modern cameras should be sufficient to produce a usable mesh, many of my students even use mobile phone cameras, however, a general rule is that a better camera will produce a better result. I have seen that full-frame sensor cameras provide very good results. Photogrammetry actually takes lens distortion into consideration in its calculations so you don’t need to worry about this and you should NOT correct it in post, the software actually requires it. As for focal length/depth of field, you will want to have photos with as much clear and in focus detail as possible. The more clear and non-blurry data you can provide the photogrammetry software, the better your results will be. Photogrammetry software uses both foreground subject and background detail to calculate structure from motion. I hope that helps.

Thanks! Glad to help :)

Glad to help! Thanks for watching.